Aux Bollaux! Y me?

[WD Forte]

Nuthins ever easy

So this guy buys a 2016 YBR engine with very low miles
(2000 he sez) and asks me to do the swap
Yep, fine says I what could possibly go wrong?
It was all going swimmingly until I went to fit the starter
in the new lump when I noticed 2 bolts missing from the clutch cover.

Out curiosity I checked the other bolts and found two had wrong (too short) bolts in
so someones been ferkin about with this bike
Why? its only done 2 thou!
Anyway
I solved the bolt problem by nicking the correct ones from the old lump
and when the front two failed to go in I suspected what you see in the pic
and whipped the clutch cover off to confirm.

Have walked away for a while and told the guy I'll either fix it or fuck it up so no other fucker can fix it.
and it'll get done when it's done, it's not a job to rush.
As most of us know, its a job you do right or its all weeping and gnashing of teeth.
Off to get some small cobalt drills manana, get the pilot drill centred right and you've got a chance.
Ordered a 5mm LH bit too, it might help.
If I can get the broken bolts out clean, fine
If I get it out but damage the thread/s I'll helicoil it
Seriously thinking about using a shallow nut and the Mig


https://imgur.com/bR8vSeH.jpg
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bikers smell of wee

[stinkwheel]

They should extract pretty easily. Those are usually snapped due to ham-fisted overtightening rather than being seized in the holes so the thread itself isn't usually stuck.

Bolt the cover back on, centre-drill a bit of 6mm alloy rod in a pillar drill, push the drilled rod into the bolt holes and use it as a drill-guide. Can't go wrong then.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[yen_powell]

Now there's no head and they aren't under much pressure you might be able to tap them in an unwindey type direction and see if they unscrew easily with a little punch. I'd give that a try before drilling.
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XT1200Z and a DR350 in bits

[WD Forte]

Dont have a pillar drill but I have considered making a guide/collar in the wee cnc thingy.
If they did snap cos of hamfistedness and they're not binding or corroded in it does kind of wink towards the MIG.or a LH drill
I'll have closer look later in the week when it stops raining and I have more tools and options to hand.
Sometimes it's best to walk away for a while and muse over options
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bikers smell of wee

[A100man]

I bought a LH drill set with high expectation but no different result than normal drill. - a hole . But that was some steel in steel frame bolts..
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Then: Fizz, RS200, KL250, XJ550, Laverda Alpina, XJ600, FZS600

[Sister Sledge]

Plastic oil pump drive gear looks worn - teeth are probably pointed when new but are they leaning too?
Why was that case off? Only thing I can think of is new clutch plates?
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CCM 404 DS

[Easy-X]

Could you put the case back on and find a piece of steel tube the same diameter as the hole and then use that as a drill guide / thread protector?
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Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[Polarbear]

I'd be wondering what happened in 2000 miles to warrant removing that cover. Personally I might have checked the oil level a few times in 2000 miles but thats about it.

Also if he's ham fisted enough to shear those bolts, what else has he buggered.
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Triumph Trophy Launch Edition

[Pete.]

Either of those should come out readily. If tapping on the end with a flat-ended punch doesn't loosen them enough to twist out then a flat penny washer over the end of the hole then a blast with a mig will weld the washer to the bolt end and expand the ally case a bit so they will turn out either by bending the washer edge up or welding a nut on top.

The oil pump gear looks fine. They are often odd-looking profile-shifted gears on oil pumps.
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[chris-red]

As other have said there no pressure on it, you should be able to tap it round. I did the exact fix when I snapped a clutch pressure plate bolt. (Broken Torque Wrench always trust your gut!)
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Well, you know what they say. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
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[-]

You should be able to find some screw extractor drill bits thin enough to get them out. Just drill or punch a little pilot mark first.

£4 a set at Screwfix.
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[The Shaggy D.A.]

[WD Forte]

Thanks for the replies
Haven't touched it today but had a nasty thought
What if the numpty used the 2 longest bolts in there and they snapped
because they bottomed out and they're under tension?
That could make the feckers trickier to shift than bolts that snapped because they were stretched between head and thread which would 'relax' after snapping.
Ho hum
I'm going to mask off the case with cardboard n shit and try the MIG method first

As above, the only reason i can think of is someone wanted access to the oil strainer but at an alleged 2K it makes me wonder why.
The high engine number and condition of the rest if it does suggest a late year and low miles.
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bikers smell of wee

[-]

[WD Forte]

Well the welding effort didnt work.
I tried to weld a washer to the stub and a nut to that
but got little or no penetration on the bolt and washer/nut broke away
very easily.

https://imgur.com/WYuYfX9.jpg

I did manage to tack me pliers to the washer when holding the washer in place
tho' so it wasn't all bad
oh how we larfed!

https://imgur.com/cVJ5P2r.jpg

It was worth a try but as the centre punch marks remained intact I gave up on the MIG
and used DeWalt cobalt bits and drilled them out with 3mm then 5mm bits.
These worked a treat BTW.

https://imgur.com/wSFFtwr.jpg

There was no discernable void between the bottom of the bolt and the engine case
I stopped when I saw ally swarf comng out.
This suggests the shit for brains who did this used too long bolts and just kept tightening
them until they bottomed out and snapped and they're stuck in under tension.
I made a tentative effort with a cheap Screwfix easy out, but it was useless and I stopped before it broke.
Drilling out broken easy outs?

https://imgur.com/CV14oNE.jpg

Sod it, When the 6mm helicoil kit arrives I'll use that
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bikers smell of wee

[A100man]

[WD Forte]

Pizza boxes.
Handy for making templates, masks and all manner of things
always have a few of them about.

Longer inserts, not a bad idea that
when I see how much depth I have to play with, I'll get some from a local engineering shop.
The bolts only need to be torqued to 10Nm or 7-8lb/ft normally
which a 6mm long insert should cope with, but a longer insert may
make it a bit more secure in the long run especially as its taken a bit of butchery and battering.
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bikers smell of wee

[WD Forte]

Just for closure.
I got the clearance and tapping holes pretty close to centre
and put 2D (12mm) inserts in and got the cover back on.
It torqued up OK so that'll do me.
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bikers smell of wee

[bugeye_bob]

The problem with welding is that you cant get to the bolt to earthit, its the nut that you use, Im surprised the bottom one didnt come out the weld a bigger nut fashion, but the top one was below the surface.

[MCN]

The afore mentioned Jig deal was what I wanted to see.

I'm disappoint verily. 😟

Apart from that, nice write up Sir. 👍
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Disclaimer: The comments above may be predicted text and not necessarily the opinion of MCN.

[WD Forte]

I didn't make a jig because there was little to register it to
so eyed it up as best I could.
I've ferked up royally in the past doing this and remember buggering up a CX cylinder head
trying to remove a broken exhaust stud with clumsiness set to max
but got away with it this time.
High quality drill bits helped of course

The engine does sound pretty sweet I must say and it being circa 2016 and 2000 miles is now believable.
I hope the guy has better luck than with the last two.
the last one probably just needs some TLC as it sounded pretty good until recently, but he wont touch a spanner.
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bikers smell of wee

[MCN]