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Ayrton
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PostPosted: 19:25 - 27 Nov 2019    Post subject: Re: noise Reply with quote

bikenut wrote:

Any big end play found as per method suggested and any bright "ring" on the piston crown as if the piston has been hitting the head?


I haven't had the time to check it today unfortunately so I'll give it a good look tomorrow.

I do quite like the exploded diagram stuff and I even looked at one earlier to work out how all the camshaft stuff works together.

Also he has a car so fixing it super quickly isn't an issue, he just wanted to use it for some practice before doing his license in a month or so. My guess is if the engine is total scrap he will just sell it and move on to a bigger bike.
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steve the grease
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PostPosted: 01:00 - 28 Nov 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Having said everything I did earlier about the cam follower , it could also be the little end , I was thinking about it in the bath.....it definitely sounds 'top endy' usually quite a heavy vibration with a big end .
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Ayrton
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PostPosted: 20:57 - 28 Nov 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've taken the cover off and decided to take the camshaft holder out for a better look as it's too tight in there.
The faces dont exactly look flat but they have this discolored/ worn section, is that normal?
https://i.imgur.com/Mzml2hM.jpg

heres some other images of it:
https://imgur.com/a/IZyZg3K

Also took the opportunity to take the camshaft out for a closer look. I cant hear any noise in the bearings unless I hold it right up against my ear then I can hear a faint metal rubbing, but I suppose that's normal? Also the smaller bearing doesnt seem to spin much (but it's smooth) is that normal?

Ran out of time to check the strainer, so I'll try and do that tommorow.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 21:41 - 28 Nov 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Children, b4 we dive in and invest in a big bit we should do the preliminary checks.
If there's mechanical failure due to oil starvation the evidence is normally found in the oil filter or screen.
It's a simple check before one discombooberates the engine.
If there's metal in the screen than the engine is dusted.
And start from there.
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Ayrton
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PostPosted: 00:09 - 29 Nov 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:
Children, b4 we dive in and invest in a big bit we should do the preliminary checks.
If there's mechanical failure due to oil starvation the evidence is normally found in the oil filter or screen.
It's a simple check before one discombooberates the engine.
If there's metal in the screen than the engine is dusted.
And start from there.


Ok I do get that it was stupid to start there Laughing I meant to look afterwards but ran out of time.

Also I forgot to mention I did try and have a look at the piston, but I can hardly see anything through the little spark plug hole. I've got a little endoscope somewhere that I'll find on the weekend.
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 00:53 - 29 Nov 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm of the view that as you have gone this far, just rip it apart. It's a simple engine and once it's out of the frame you can strip it down in a few hours. Then check everything properly, see what's wrong and decide your what you are going to do.
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 11:13 - 02 Dec 2019    Post subject: wear Reply with quote

Those pads are normally convex, they are domed outwards, flat they are worn and concave ( domed inwards ) they are worn out.

As the cam shaft is out, the valves cannot get tangled up with the piston. As long as the cam chain is held in tension and in line, then it cannot derail and bunch up on the cam crank sprocket ( see cmsnl views ) , meaning the engine crank is safe to rotate.

With the piston at half stroke, any relative movement of the crank back and forth with no piston movement?

If yes then big end and or little end "play".

If so how much crank movement?

You could of course just strip the engine down and do it that way.

What are all those little black specs seen in the picture, see cmsnl exploded views for cam chain slippers etc..

You know if this engine has a centrifugal oil filter and where the oil pick up filtyer screen is, use cmsnl to help you.
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 12:56 - 02 Dec 2019    Post subject: Re: wear Reply with quote

bikenut wrote:


You know if this engine has a centrifugal oil filter and where the oil pick up filtyer screen is, use cmsnl to help you.


Shocked Don't mention t̶h̶e̶ ̶w̶a̶r̶ cmsn!
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Ayrton
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PostPosted: 16:03 - 02 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Which black specs are you talking about bikenut?

anyway I just took the oil strainer out and it bad news, I found all this metal in there. There are quiet big pieces and theres a lot of them (that's a electrical tape tub for reference)
https://i.imgur.com/aBiOBWh.jpg

Doesnt seem to be any play in the crank movement that I can see either.
Here's the best shot I can get of the piston
https://i.imgur.com/n8wrFOH.jpg

Is there any point removing the engine and stripping it down or is it new engine time? Unfortunately finding an engine for these that isn't tons of money on ebay seems difficult.
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 16:18 - 02 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hm, bits of light alloy? On an old bike I might think "bearing cage", on this.... Alloy component failure or failure of some harder thing gouging out alloy from something?
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Ayrton
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PostPosted: 16:36 - 02 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep none of it's magnetic.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 18:23 - 02 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Something has some play in it and a cog is now flapping about and grinding chucks from the inside of the crankcase?

If you're about to junk the engine you may as well dismantle it, that's the easy bit. Putting it back together is the hard work Smile
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 23:13 - 02 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ayrton wrote:
Yep none of it's magnetic.


I don't like the look of those rocker arms at all, the hardening's gone through, but they aren't the cause of the tapping if you have adjusted the valve clearances.

What does an engine stethescope tell you? You can use a long screwdriver (habdle end to ear!) or bit of bamboo cane or something, make sure the end you hold against the little flappy bit in front of your ear hole is comfy, press the end against the flappy bit to close your ear's hole (yes, *ear* hole), and hold the other end against the cylinder head (each side), and bottom end, or other likely places, to pin down where the tapping is coming from. N.B. make sure the ear end is comfy and won't hurt your ear. You will hear all sorts of whirring clanking scraping noises, but the tapping you're hearing should be obvious.

The bits of light alloy in nthe strainer could have been there for ages, or recently. Hard to know. Can you get a better pic of them clean?
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Ayrton
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PostPosted: 00:16 - 03 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Riejufixing wrote:

The bits of light alloy in nthe strainer could have been there for ages, or recently. Hard to know. Can you get a better pic of them clean?


I thought about that too, it's quite likely that the strainer hasn't been cleaned in a long time or at all. There was also lots of other sludgy green looking crap blocking it up. I really wish he cleaned it on the last oil change now.

I did give the old screwdriver trick a go and couldnt pinpoint the noise down other than noticing it was loudest around the cylinder head and quiet below that. Unfortunately I've taken things apart a bit too much to do another test.

I'll get some better pictures of the metal. Some of them have some quite distinct patterns.

If he gets a new engine it'l definitely get dismantled as I really want to know what's happened Laughing
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 02:20 - 03 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can you restate the precise model and year, please?
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Ayrton
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PostPosted: 10:59 - 03 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Riejufixing wrote:
Can you restate the precise model and year, please?

It's a 2007 RW6 (the carb version).
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Ayrton
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PostPosted: 17:07 - 04 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Riejufixing wrote:
Can you get a better pic of them clean?

Here's some better pics, it's hard to get them into focus though.

All the pieces are shaped like a hollow triangle (kind of like gear teeth i guess) with lots of little lines on the inside sort of like threads (but definitely not). The one on the left is largest at 1cm.

https://i.imgur.com/HDUAg6D.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/PUC5ruL.jpg
https://imgur.com/a/4rqT9OE
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 18:28 - 04 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

How absolutely fascinating. I suppose they are really metal, and not very hard glue from an old filter?

Perhaps someone will have a brainwave. I'm not sure I will!
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Ayrton
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PostPosted: 18:54 - 04 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Riejufixing wrote:
How absolutely fascinating. I suppose they are really metal, and not very hard glue from an old filter?

Perhaps someone will have a brainwave. I'm not sure I will!

Definitely metal and not magnetic.
I've been looking at pictures of the engine to see if I can tell where it came from, but I doubt if anyone could tell just by looking at them Laughing
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Sister Sledge
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PostPosted: 22:01 - 04 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm not sure what the bearings are inside the crank parts but to me it looks like white metal from a failed plain bearing.
Whatever the metal is, it's gone through a few gears in the gearbox. That'll explain the shape.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 22:03 - 04 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sister Sledge wrote:
I'm not sure what the bearings are inside the crank parts but to me it looks like white metal from a failed plain bearing.
Whatever the metal is, it's gone through a few gears in the gearbox. That'll explain the shape.


Wow... great observation Thumbs Up (I entirely missed that.) Maybe the the thread title should be renamed "Engine (death) Rattle" Smile
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 23:10 - 04 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Those bits of metal are just casting flashing IMO. Shouldn't be there but not a mechanical issue. It's certainly not white metal big end bearings because they use roller bearings in the conrod.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 23:37 - 04 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

mpd72 wrote:
I reckon that’s part of the roller cage of the small end bearing.


Could be that. Easy to tell, remove the spark plug and the engine side cover. Put a pencil down the hole (blunt end first) onto the piston and turn the crank via the end nut until the piston is roughly half way up/down the bore. Now hold the pencil against the piston to feel for movement and gently rock the crank to and fro. If the pencil doesn't move perfectly in time with the rocking of the crank then either the big or little end bearing is shot.

You have to do it at the mid-stroke to get the best reading. Top and bottom the piston dwells anyway.
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Ayrton
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PostPosted: 00:24 - 05 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

mpd72 wrote:
I reckon that’s part of the roller cage of the small end bearing.


Maybe I'm being dumb here and thinking about the wrong thing but I cant find any pictures of a roller cage small end bearing, just a pin that goes through the conrod?

https://images.cmsnl.com/img/partslists/honda-cbr125rs-2006-6-england-crank-shaftpiston_bigecpp4e1e__1500_6138.gif

I'll give the pencil thing a go, I guess it's the same as what I tried before but it was kind of difficult to check for movement looking at it through a camera.

As for being flashing, I vaguely remember finding a lot of flashing still barely stuck to the case when I opened up the clutch case of my old CBR125 years ago. I also doubt if this one has ever had the filter cleaned, there was tons of crap built up in there including bits of sealant.
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The last post was made 4 years, 144 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
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