Drum Brakes

[Easy-X]

Yes it's me again What would be the best grease to use for drum brake parts?

I have on hand: copper, silicone, lithium, teflon and molybdenum. Will any of these do the job?

Also, I read somewhere you can put grease on the pads to stop them squeaking. That doesn't sound right
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Yamaha DT175 (WIP) Honda Rebel, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter,

[Sister Sledge]

Something claggy and sticky?
Only stuff I ever used was a small amount of copperslip. For me though I would dismantle them regularly and clean them through - it ensured maximum effectiveness.
Edit: Do not put grease onto friction surfaces ar anywhere where it could potentially reach them. Use grease sparingly where the cam travels through the holder and a tiny bit on the cam where the shoes are squashing it.
Tiny amounts and regular servicing is key.

Drum brakes have SHOES. Disc brakes have PADS. I never ever had shoes that squeeled.
You're confusing this with disc brakes - I'm well aware that you watch YouTube vids for advice but whatever you do, do not watch Delboy doing things to bikes and copy it. Actually don't copy how he uses tools or anything.
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CCM 404 DS

[Forced]

I use normal grease on the cams where the pivot in the brake plate and a spot of copperslip on the actuating faces of the cam.

Off topic but don’t put copperslip on the back of disc pads. It causes dust seals to dry out and swell.
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For speed add lightness. You can’t make power without revs.

GSXR1100L, GSXR400RKSP, YR5, GT200

[Polarbear]

[Riejufixing]

[Robby]

I use copper grease only on brakes.

Clean it first. That's the important bit. Brake cleaner and a stiff brush.

Then a thin smear of copper grease on moving parts, the cam and its spindle are the important bits. If you use lots it will just attract brake dust and make a mess. Copper grease can burn off the greasy bit and leave a coating of copper.

Strip and clean once a year, or every tyre change.

[Easy-X]

[stinkwheel]

I use black molybdenum grease.

As a general rule, high load/low movement (eg a metal pivot on a steel bush) = Black Moly. grease. Low-load/High speed (eg wheel bearings) = LM grease.

The molybdenum is good for this application because it's metal on metal. The molybdenum disulphide will hang about and lubricate the metal-on-metal even if the grease film is broken/missing.

If you know any car mechanics, see if they have some leftover sachets of black grease from ball joints/track-rod ends. It has a very high moly content, really good quality grease.

You need to grease the cam pivot well (some older bikes even have a grease nipple here) and a THIN smear on the cam and pivot pins. I usually put a very thin smear on the springs to stop them rusting.

You shouldn't touch the friction material with anything but brake drum (with the possible exception of a bit of emery paper/chalk if you have to profile them in).

I put copper grease on the splines to stop them seizing.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Easy-X]

Thanx! I have lots of moly grease - it gets used a lot in eBike motors.
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Yamaha DT175 (WIP) Honda Rebel, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter,