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Exhaust poorly fitted?

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seeyalater
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PostPosted: 10:34 - 06 Dec 2019    Post subject: Exhaust poorly fitted? Reply with quote

Hey, another gripe.
I know theres meant to be alittle slip with end cans or so ive read.
but i can move most of this exhaust and pipe. not sure its blowing but it should be by looks of it. only just noticed how loose underneath is, so not tested that for blowing.
just looking for new clamps now is there anything else i need to be aware of? not too tight etc.

see pics.
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 11:17 - 06 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is there room for an exhaust to pipe gasket (sleeve)?
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seeyalater
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PostPosted: 11:25 - 06 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

jaffa90 wrote:
Is there room for an exhaust to pipe gasket (sleeve)?

I think if i loosen the clamp it should, was looking at them, seem thick in pics.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 13:34 - 06 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could seal it with plumbers silicone.
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seeyalater
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PostPosted: 13:47 - 06 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
You could seal it with plumbers silicone.


does it need to be heat resistant or just normal, never knew it could handle the heat.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 13:58 - 06 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's the wrong size can for the pipe. It will chaffe until It fails.

A sleeve is a good suggestion.
High temp silicunt adhesive is good too.
3m make it for sealing ovens and furnaces etc. May seem pricey.

Amazon e-ghey etc.


VITCAS
4.5 out of 5 stars 386Reviews
Black Fire Cement 1250 C - 310ml for Fireplace, Stove, Boilers etc

This one for a fiver. Plus change. Free delivery.
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Disclaimer: The comments above may be predicted text and not necessarily the opinion of MCN.
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seeyalater
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PostPosted: 14:12 - 06 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:
It's the wrong size can for the pipe. It will chaffe until It fails.

A sleeve is a good suggestion.
High temp silicunt adhesive is good too.
3m make it for sealing ovens and furnaces etc. May seem pricey.

Amazon e-ghey etc.


VITCAS
4.5 out of 5 stars 386Reviews
Black Fire Cement 1250 C - 310ml for Fireplace, Stove, Boilers etc

This one for a fiver. Plus change. Free delivery.


thankyou Smile
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 14:43 - 06 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Leearchertog wrote:

does it need to be heat resistant or just normal, never knew it could handle the heat.


I use normal screwfix own brand clear silicone on the header pipe on my aircooled Enfield bullet. It'll cope fine with your application.

You can buy extra heat resistant stuff but it's not necessary.

Another thought is that you could cut a strip of silicone sheet to use as a gasket. They sell silicone trivets fairly cheaply for putting hot cooking pans on.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Bhud
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PostPosted: 14:51 - 06 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is the end can secured separately via a hanger? If not, things could get dangerous if it liberates itself at speed.
If it's just that clamp which is tightened all the way but doesn't really grab the exhaust pipe, you could shim it out with a section of copper pipe, or beer can metal. To prevent leaks, Holts Firegum assembly paste is good.
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 15:03 - 06 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

It certainly looks like it needs a gasket. Readily available on ebay. This sort of thing.....

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Exhaust-seal-Gasket-to-Silencer-Yamaha-FZS-600-Fazer-1998-2003/192329154671?epid=0&hash=item2cc7b6006f:g:b~AAAOSwSDxbmpXn
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seeyalater
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PostPosted: 17:06 - 06 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

used a fire cement with heat resist to 1250 degrees, do i let it set or get the bike warm lol ?
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seeyalater
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PostPosted: 17:07 - 06 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bhud wrote:
Is the end can secured separately via a hanger? If not, things could get dangerous if it liberates itself at speed.
If it's just that clamp which is tightened all the way but doesn't really grab the exhaust pipe, you could shim it out with a section of copper pipe, or beer can metal. To prevent leaks, Holts Firegum assembly paste is good.

the rear has a hanger so the pipe cant go far, tried cement but the clamp wont go really tight so hope it sits ok or its a strip and new clamp.
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seeyalater
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PostPosted: 17:08 - 06 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Polarbear wrote:


this looks too thick or is it just the pic.. could be right though
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 18:51 - 06 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:
High temp silicunt adhesive is good too.
3m make it for sealing ovens and furnaces etc. May seem pricey.

Amazon e-ghey etc.


VITCAS
4.5 out of 5 stars 386Reviews
Black Fire Cement 1250 C - 310ml for Fireplace, Stove, Boilers etc

Unfortunately it's not silicone rubber, although it has a high silicon content. As far as I know, silicone rubber that's highly resistant to heat tops out at 300C. The stuff I've used has the disadvantage of being available only in bright red.

Edit: "Ordinary" silicone sealer might do the job. Test temperature of pipe with a loop of lead-free solder around it as you go along. That melts at about 230C.

Edit: well, maybe there is ultra-high-temperature silicone sealer, like: https://www.fluesystems.com/shop/high-temperature-black-silicone-enviromgraf.html - however, I have never seen this, and it comes with usage warnings.

Edit again: the above "1250C silicone" says:

Envirograf® Silicone Sealant has been tested in fire furnaces for up to 4 hours and 1200°C, where joints in walls are sealed and any vapours burn off in the furnace to leave the fireproof seal.When sealing in situations, which normally have adjacent flames, it is absolutely essential that you allow 3 days WITHOUT FLAMES, for every 1-2 mm of Silicone Sealant installed, in order to set the silicone into its fireproof state. For example, 5-6 mm of Silicone Sealant installed would require 4-5 days for the silicone to set. DO NOT allow flames in the vicinity of setting silicone. If anyone has used this stuff and knows how it works, I'll be really interested to hear!


Use gun gum? Shim cut from aluminium beer tins? Old lithoprint plates?
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seeyalater
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PostPosted: 19:20 - 06 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Riejufixing wrote:
MCN wrote:
High temp silicunt adhesive is good too.
3m make it for sealing ovens and furnaces etc. May seem pricey.

Amazon e-ghey etc.


VITCAS
4.5 out of 5 stars 386Reviews
Black Fire Cement 1250 C - 310ml for Fireplace, Stove, Boilers etc

Unfortunately it's not silicone rubber, although it has a high silicon content. As far as I know, silicone rubber that's highly resistant to heat tops out at 300C. The stuff I've used has the disadvantage of being available only in bright red.

Edit: "Ordinary" silicone sealer might do the job. Test temperature of pipe with a loop of lead-free solder around it as you go along. That melts at about 230C.

Edit: well, maybe there is ultra-high-temperature silicone sealer, like: https://www.fluesystems.com/shop/high-temperature-black-silicone-enviromgraf.html - however, I have never seen this, and it comes with usage warnings.

Edit again: the above "1250C silicone" says:

Envirograf® Silicone Sealant has been tested in fire furnaces for up to 4 hours and 1200°C, where joints in walls are sealed and any vapours burn off in the furnace to leave the fireproof seal.When sealing in situations, which normally have adjacent flames, it is absolutely essential that you allow 3 days WITHOUT FLAMES, for every 1-2 mm of Silicone Sealant installed, in order to set the silicone into its fireproof state. For example, 5-6 mm of Silicone Sealant installed would require 4-5 days for the silicone to set. DO NOT allow flames in the vicinity of setting silicone. If anyone has used this stuff and knows how it works, I'll be really interested to hear!


Use gun gum? Shim cut from aluminium beer tins? Old lithoprint plates?


apart from the last line what was your point dude, struggling to see wha you were saying aprt from fire cement may take days to set?

gun gum is crap stuff but a can or high temp silicone does look a good idea from what ive seen in the last hour or so. il see how the stuff sets ive used, feel it will be too brittle for where it is, wont be firing the bike up until sunday and i only used about 2mm depth. fingers crossed.
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 19:24 - 06 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Leearchertog wrote:
apart from the last line what was your point dude, struggling to see wha you were saying aprt from fire cement may take days to set?.


"Dude" Rolling Eyes ? Anyway, whatever, report back when you've tried it.
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seeyalater
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PostPosted: 19:30 - 06 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Riejufixing wrote:
Leearchertog wrote:
apart from the last line what was your point dude, struggling to see wha you were saying aprt from fire cement may take days to set?.


"Dude" Rolling Eyes ? Anyway, whatever, report back when you've tried it.


dude, mate, buddy, any reference to suggest friend.
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Sister Sledge
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PostPosted: 08:00 - 07 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is it actually leaking from the joint?
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 09:59 - 07 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fire cement is brittle when dry, and will vibrate out in a few days/weeks, I've tried it many times. I work in a Foundry, I have unlimited access to the stuff, free is the best price if you can make it work. Really, it's useless for pretty much any bike application in the long-term, due to the vibration, and getting it wet is a recipe for it falling out almost instantly.

If the gap is big enough, get a graphite exhaust gasket. You'll need to measure uncompressed ID of the can and OD of the pipe and use that to search. You can also use a Silicone. the aforementioned 5990 is good, or an oven door silicone sealer works and will be cheaper, using with pop/beer cans to fill the gap, as that will blow out over time without something in there.
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Tdibs
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PostPosted: 10:33 - 07 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is it a Delkevic? Is there really no sleeve coming out of the silencer to fit over the link pipe?
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seeyalater
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PostPosted: 10:48 - 07 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not sure if it was blowing from bottom but will bet it was, wasnt really from the can as the pipe goes well into it. was a little breeze if you like but no black marks.

I know in my head how the stuff was it wll be brittle and any movement will shake it loose. going to order the better clamp and silicone and find a can, Guess il have to buy beer, dam it. Smile
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 11:45 - 07 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Leearchertog wrote:
going to order the better clamp

Search for a Mikalor Supra. Various grades of stainless available, but any will be fine unless you live on a promenade by the sea and ride it daily.

What inside diameter and outside diameter is the can itself? If you don't have them, cheap metal digital calipers (about a tenner on fleabay) are very, very useful.
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seeyalater
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PostPosted: 13:32 - 07 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

ThatDippyTwat wrote:
Leearchertog wrote:
going to order the better clamp

Search for a Mikalor Supra. Various grades of stainless available, but any will be fine unless you live on a promenade by the sea and ride it daily.

What inside diameter and outside diameter is the can itself? If you don't have them, cheap metal digital calipers (about a tenner on fleabay) are very, very useful.

I mainly need new clam under engine. Ones used are too basic. Sure i measured 116mm
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 17:17 - 07 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I lost a word there, diameter of the can inlet.
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