Vambo L Plate Warrior
Joined: 12 Dec 2019 Karma :
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Nobby the Bastard Harley Gaydar
Joined: 16 Aug 2013 Karma :
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Ste Not Work Safe
Joined: 01 Sep 2002 Karma :
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Nobby the Bastard Harley Gaydar
Joined: 16 Aug 2013 Karma :
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :
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Posted: 19:32 - 12 Dec 2019 Post subject: |
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I'd find someone who DOES have a good milling machine and get them to do it.
You can prep and mark the piece to save time and expense.
It's that or potentially screw it up if you don't trust your mill.
I'd think a trike would be much better with an Earles or leading-link system for lateral ridgidity. ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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Easy-X Super Spammer
Joined: 08 Mar 2019 Karma :
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :
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Teflon-Mike tl;dr
Joined: 01 Jun 2010 Karma :
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Posted: 07:19 - 13 Dec 2019 Post subject: Re: Building Springers Yokes |
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The term 'Springer' fork, is significantly a Harley/Cruiser vogue..... b-u-t..... The 'springer' type fork is actually just a 'sprung' girder fork, and whilst they are more popularly associated with cruisers and customs, because of they were the more usual and effective form of fork in the 1930's thru '50's that were on the bikes that were chopped in that early 'Chopper' era of the cruisers and customs, and the 'Springer' name was, I believe, actually a Harley Davidson 'Trade-Mark', b-u-t it isn't something exclusive either to Harleys, cruisers or customs. NOR is it actually such a Luddite bit of antique engineering, curiously,.
Through the 1960's the telescopic fork became the usual, mainly because its actually quite cheap to make. The main gripe against them is a thing called 'Sticksion', where the lower leg, sliding on the upper 'sticks' rather than slides, more so if the forks under any sort of bending load, resulting in a very high initial resistance to travel, but you can get a lot of axle-travel from them, and with all axle travel in a straight line, co-incident with the fork-leg telescoping, they 'can' maintain steering geometry pretty well.
On side-cars the 'Earles' type fork, with leading arm swing-arm on the fork, was., and I believe still is, popular for avoiding sticksion and offering much better high-load geometry control, problems which lead companies like Honda to try tackling in GP racing with very high tech, mandrel wound carbon-fibre fork tubes, and high tech chrome and titanium plating, and low friction 'teflon' fork bushes.
Probably most noteable, though, is the 90's 'Britten' racer; the ultimate shed-build; Kiwi John Britain built his incredibly high tech Fibre-Flyer, for antipodean 'BEARS' British, European, & American Racing (But shunning all nationalities!) wanted 'his' bike to be totally home-brewed with no foreign assemblies, so to make a front fork/suspension system, not using anything from Japan, and significantly in Carbon Fibre, he actually went on record, as saying that the design he eventually settled on was a modern take on the 'Girder' or 'Springer' Fork...
It's NOT necessarily, a 'Hill-Billy' set up, or low-tech... though it most usually is!
What was the question again?
Vambo wrote: | Im looking to build a set of springers for my chopper trike project. I am a competent engineer, have access to a lathe and a not very good warco milling machine. my question is, how would you guys get a decent precision cut on the holes in the yokes for the forks to pass through (1 1/2")? can make the yokes from ally or mild steel |
Oh yeah... well... I'm a little perplexed why you would want such an accurate hole for a fork-tube in a yoke TBH, or even why you would want a tube to go through a plate...
Yokes for tele-fork stansions tend not to have an enormously accurate hole for the upper leg tube, they have a clamp, a hole with a split in it and a pinch bolt.. but you aren't making a yoke to take a tele, you are making a yoke to take a girder... where I cant really picture the assembly you are trying to create. On most Girder type foforks, the 'forks' are a rigid girder, hinged on short arms off the yoke, pivoting axially with the wheel axle.. so why you need a yoke that has bloomin great holes in it to take a tube? I is perplexed....
Setting that asside; the yokes on most bikes tend only to be about 6" wide; is I was attempting to make one, or two, in a more usual machine shop, my first reaction would be to accurately mark my work-piece, and pilot three holes for the steering stem and two stanchion clamps, probably on a pillar drill. I would then open those out to required tube or thread diameter, probably in a 4-Jaw chuck or face-plate on the lath...
I am at a bit of a loss as to why/how you envisage making holes through a plate with a milling-machine, TBH, the work-piece would have to be spaced off the bed, or you'd be cutting holes in the machine!!!! Wile the supports to space it would likely dodo any 'accuracy' you may get!!!
So Lathe, 4-Jaw or face plate, to make a conventional 'pinch-clamp' yoke as used with tele-forks... but that not a girder or springer set up!
For that I would envisage making a pair of yokes, to take the steering tube, with side plates at 90Deg, to which the radius arms the girder pivoted on swung...
I GUESS what you are looking to make, is a leading link front fork, with a pair of rigid tubes, like a push-bike fork, running from the yoke, to which a leading link attaches and pivots at the bottom, like where the axle would bolt into a push bike fork, but with a pair of links hinging from the bottom of the fork-tube, with another girder hinging off them to transmit the suspension force up to a spring mounted top-side at the yokes.... Erghumph!!! Yeah.....
You say that this is for a trike? Oh-Kay... it's not the most elegant arrangement one could conceive... but I guess that;s not the point... it's a chopper 'thing'..... B-U-T how much nose weight will the all-up trike be putting on this steered suspension assembly?
Its not exactly the strongest arrangement conceivable, or one that gives an awful lot of travel, or geometry control...
For simplicity and elegence, I would probably go with a more conventional 'Girder' to get rigidity in all axes to support the wheel-axle, then pivot the girder on a pair of wish-bones or three dog-bone links... and I would probably not be messing with either lath of mill, I would take a 'standard' yoke assembly off a motor-bike; loose the tele-tubes, and be trying to weld lumps of angle iron onto the yokes to take my links.....
1&1/2" holes? That's what. 36mm in new money.. that's a pretty big fork tube even for a tele-set up! But, within normal bounds for larger bikes. If this is mainly an aesthetic 'thing' that aught be string enough to take the side and bending loads, and you should be able to clamp that size tube in a lot of pretty standard yokes, with little modification or adaptation... so why make one? Just find a yoke with that size hole already in it, or sleeve the tube to the size of clamp you can get. Skinning cats and all that.
But still a little at a loss as to what you are trying to make, and if you are a competent engineer... why is this even a question?!?! 'really'. ____________________ My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :
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