Throttle not returning to idle quickly

[Ribenapigeon]

Ive noticed my throttle sticking. Its slow to return to the idle position. Ive lubed my clutch cable in the past. Do throttle cables need doing as well or could it be a problem with the twist grip or at the throttle body end? How much hassle to fix myself?

Its a 2013 Yamaha XJ6

[JackButler]

Is it the mechanical parts slow to return or the revs?

If it's mechanical then you just need to ID the mechanical cause, which could be any part or parts of the mechanism. If it's the revs, then the bike is running too lean.
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I clean my guns with the tears of the snivelling, left wing scum.

[doggone]

You can lube them but they don't make it easy compared to a clutch.
A valid approach is to keep it dry rather than full of sticky gloop especially if the bike usually lives inside.
It could just be something worn o sticking in the actual twist grip, investigation needed.

[wr6133]

Check the bar end weight isn't touching it and slowing it's return.

[Ribenapigeon]

Its mechanical, I can see the grip slowly return to idle position.

I did think keeping the cable run dry was the prefered thing. Would it be OK though to try spraying a little silicone lube into the grip mechanism?

[Nobby the Bastard]

Graphite will work well.
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Sprint ST 1050

[Ste]

New bike.

[Ribenapigeon]

[Polarbear]

I would say its certainly the cable/s.

You can lube it by taking off at the throttle end, making a plastic cup out of plasticine and filling with oil, allowing it to seep down the cable overnight.

Or you can buy a cable lubricator that uses aerosol oil to force the oil through, one of these.

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/LZsAAOSwpaFZyzfV/s-l400.jpg

Or, the best idea, replace the cables.
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Triumph Trophy Launch Edition

[Nobby the Bastard]

If the cable has frayed it could catch on the outer sleeve, causing it to take a long time to close.
____________________
trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Sprint ST 1050

[Islander]

I'd start with checking that the rubber grip isn't binding against either the body of the throttle mechanism or the bar end weight.

[F18]

[pepperami]

I’ve had cables in the past that claim to be friction free lined cables.
I’ve unwittingly put a squirt of oil down the cable thinking I’m doing the right thing oiling my cables, only for the lining to absorb the oil and swell up.
This made the throttle sticky/slow to return.
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I am the sum total of my own existence, what went before makes me who I am now!

[Ribenapigeon]

Im going to try takinf the bar end off first then see if a little squirt of silicone works on the grip. Then have a look at tbe throttle bidy end if still no joy it looks lije stripping down to tbe actual cable. I don't want to lube the cable run though for the reasins above. Replacement cables are not very pricey so if it comes down to it maybe new cables are the way to go.

[WD Forte]

I reckon checking the inner for fraying first is the wisest course.
Then if its all tickety boo, just clean and lube it and check the routing
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bikers smell of wee

[Robby]

Don't spray anything under the twist grip. It should be dry under there, or you end up with a sticky, sludgy mess.

Make sure there isn't anything obviously causing a problem - favourites are poor cable routing (had the forks off recently to mess around with it?) and bar end weights fouling on the twist grip.

If a modern cable needs lubing it probably needs replacing. If it needs replacing it was probably routed wrong, with too tight a bend, so the inner is sawing away at the outer.

[Ribenapigeon]

[Islander]

[stinkwheel]

Another possability is that the "close" cable could be broken.

Pattern throttle cables are cheap as chips. £20 the pair. Just order the fuckers because by the time you've got at the ends and fiddled them off to inspect/lube them, you won't want to be doing it again.

If cables are nylon lined or you're not sure and you need to lube them, use silicone spray. That won't upset anything.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Ribenapigeon]

I just tried the throttle with the engine off and the grip snapped back to the idle position quickly with no feeling of any resustance. I then started up the engine and gave the throttle a blip and it seemed slow to settle to idle (high idle auto choke) then i tried again once the engine had got up to temorature and again seemed slow to return to idle.

[Easy-X]

Are you saying you don't think it's a mechanical issue? (e.g. gummed up cable.)

Slow return to idle hints at a lean condition
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Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[stinkwheel]

The throttle twistgrip itself is slow to close or the twistgrip closes as normal but the engine is slow to return to idle?

A 2013 XJ6 is carbed right not injected?

On a CV carb, the throttle twistgrip opens and closes a butterfly valve to regulate the amount of air that can enter the carb. That ought to happen just the same if it's running or not.

The actual throttle (as in the throttle valve inside the carb, not the twistgrip) is opened and closed by a difference in air pressure across a thin rubber diaphragm. If there is a hole in the diaphragm or an air leak in the inlet manifold, it can stick open at a fast idle, there is a spring to force it closed but it is comparatively weak.

So if the throttle (twistgrip) is working normally but the revs are slow to drop, first thing I'd check is for an air leak by spraying WD40 over the inlet rubbers with the bike at a steady idle. If it revs up, you have an air leak. The second thing I'd check is a visual inspection of the diaphragms for pinhole leaks/tears. This is a delicate job.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Ribenapigeon]

Its fuel injected. Im going to have a look at all the plumbing around the throttle body and check the air box. If I don't see anything obvious then it will just have to go to the garage to have a mechanic look at it. The bijes done 23k miles and about due its valve check. Could needing some valves adjysted cause this?

[Islander]

[Ribenapigeon]