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Warm Idle Issue / 3/4 throttle bogging

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blokeonspokes
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 11 Jan 2020
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PostPosted: 19:22 - 11 Jan 2020    Post subject: Warm Idle Issue / 3/4 throttle bogging Reply with quote

Hi all, first post. Razz

Bought myself a Honda CG125 K-reg, 32,000 miles.

While I paid £400 for it, it's been royally punished over it's years of ownership from whoever had it beforehand.

The previous owner seemed experienced in his bikes, but he sold me a deathtrap, a shame, the Honda was in no fit position for me, but I persisted and managed to do a lot of work with the piston, 6V Loom, tightened tappets, fresh oil, new (correct) sparkplug, bits and bobs all over and new tyres.

I've done a lot of maintenance on it over the 2 weeks of owning it all the ticks, dings and pops have been sorted and I've restored the majority of the bike to it's former glory (what glory it had in the first place), but there's two little issues I just can't get to the bottom of.

Bogging when throttle is 3/4 applied, bike 'judders' at this point.
Also, the bike runs fine for 10 minutes from first start, then dies out during idle when warm. This has only started since I've placed on a new, Chinese carburetor. I am going to replace the old one if I cannot fix this issue.

The person who I work on my bike with, swears down that the carburetor I have put on is fully open when the choke lever is 'up' - the bike revs it's nuts off when choke lever is half-down/down.

The idle screw has been adjusted to allow tickover, but this just makes the initial warming-up of the engine rev sky-high, then once warm, it, once again dies on idle.

Another note, the carburetor makes a sharp 'PSST' noise when the bike cuts out.

Any advice would be massively appreciated.

Anyone calling me a soft-serve fecal whippy ice cream will also be agreed with, it was my mistake buying this bike, so I shall rectify it by fixing it. Laughing Laughing I do not care about the 'more money than it's worth' statement.
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Easy-X
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Joined: 08 Mar 2019
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PostPosted: 21:53 - 11 Jan 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Assuming you're restoring it and not dicking with it (e.g. cone filters, yay!) then I'd look at your air intake for leaks.

Also, you say you have a carb cast in that rare Chinesium metal but have you done anything with the jetting since you got it or just plonked it in?

Nice avatar, BTW Wink
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jaffa90
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Joined: 06 Apr 2016
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PostPosted: 22:40 - 11 Jan 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Give it some fuel providing the exhaust system is clear.
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blokeonspokes
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PostPosted: 12:02 - 12 Jan 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Easy-X wrote:
Assuming you're restoring it and not dicking with it (e.g. cone filters, yay!) then I'd look at your air intake for leaks.

Also, you say you have a carb cast in that rare Chinesium metal but have you done anything with the jetting since you got it or just plonked it in?

Nice avatar, BTW Wink



Hi mate,
Carb has been setup by ear from the chap who’s helping me. Says everything is spot on and clueless as to why she won’t tickover when warm.

I’ll check the air box now. Also, will state that since new Chinesium carb was put on, all gaskets were re-done between boots and boxes.

I’ll also try adjusting the fuel mix. Would the exhaust being clear mean no shims?
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blokeonspokes
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PostPosted: 15:25 - 12 Jan 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Going to return the old Jap carb on it from Stock, clean it out etc. These shoddy £12 carbs aren't suitable as replacements unfortunately. Turned the idle screw by a fraction and now the bike bogs heavily at high-rpm and won't idle without bogging out or racing high stacking rpms.
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 15:55 - 12 Jan 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

""""Would the exhaust being clear mean no shims?""""
I mean nothing collapse inside.
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Robby
Dirty Old Man



Joined: 16 May 2002
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PostPosted: 16:09 - 12 Jan 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get a Haynes manual.

Make sure the original carb is properly set up according to the Haynes, and clean inside and out. This is a lot easier to do with the carb on a bench, so do it all before fitting back in the bike. Pay close attention to float height and mixture screw setting.

When you refit it, make sure it is well sealed at both ends. The rubber boots that it slips into will be hard and want to fold over. A bit of lube helps.

Don't chase any problems until you have the carb sorted. It all sounds like fuelling, and you fitted a shit carb.
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blokeonspokes
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PostPosted: 11:19 - 13 Jan 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby wrote:

Don't chase any problems until you have the carb sorted. It all sounds like fuelling, and you fitted a shit carb.


Solid point - I've cleaned out the Keihin carb and resealed everything. Runs like a dream now.

Next step: Sorting gearbox whine. Laughing Laughing
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blokeonspokes
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PostPosted: 10:31 - 14 Jan 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Gents, finally made her idle - bogging still occurs but now about 4/5ths of the way so not as bad. Only issue now, she's idling slightly fast - Am I running too lean?
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 11:32 - 14 Jan 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like it`s getting a bit more fuel with this carb,

You may have to put a denser air filter in or lift the main jet needle one notch.
If you increase or decrease the pilot feed fuel you should be able to drop the idle speed with idle screw.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 13:11 - 14 Jan 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

There are numerous articles on the InterWebs about how carbs work and how to tune them. I suggest a little study Smile

Basically: idle to ~20% - dick about with the idle and mixture screws.
20 ~ 80% - dick about with the needle height.
Full throttle - dick around swapping out the main jet and swearing a lot.
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blokeonspokes
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PostPosted: 14:39 - 14 Jan 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

jaffa90 wrote:
Sounds like it`s getting a bit more fuel with this carb,

You may have to put a denser air filter in or lift the main jet needle one notch.
If you increase or decrease the pilot feed fuel you should be able to drop the idle speed with idle screw.


Nice one Jaf, will have a crack when I trundle it home after work. Imagine riding a restricted 125... Laughing Laughing

Easy-X wrote:
There are numerous articles on the InterWebs about how carbs work and how to tune them. I suggest a little study Smile

Basically: idle to ~20% - dick about with the idle and mixture screws.
20 ~ 80% - dick about with the needle height.
Full throttle - dick around swapping out the main jet and swearing a lot.


Definitely needle height then. Originally sent needle height up by 1 notch when I fitted the chinese carb due to the original idler issue.
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