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Help with fixing engine cover

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RickTaff
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Joined: 28 Jul 2016
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PostPosted: 06:45 - 20 Jan 2020    Post subject: Help with fixing engine cover Reply with quote
So, bike went from underneath me in the frost this morning, luckily i was going slow so I am absolutely fine and bike is too, kinda. IT doesnt look like its hit the deck at all

Few scrapes on left hand side paintwork, which needed doing anyway, and i have an oil leak on left hand side of the engine. At the bottom of the part which i have circled.

Is there a way to seal that crack, using JB weld or similar.

Or is it fooked and i need to find a decent second hand one?

Thanks
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Teflon-Mike
tl;dr



Joined: 01 Jun 2010
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PostPosted: 07:24 - 20 Jan 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote
What you have circled in that photo, AFAICT is the magneto cover, which shouldn't be keeping in any oil anyway. So if that damaged, that's not the source of your oil leak.. look else where.
What is it? looks like a push-rod CG engine.
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RickTaff
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Joined: 28 Jul 2016
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PostPosted: 07:30 - 20 Jan 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote
Teflon-Mike wrote:
What you have circled in that photo, AFAICT is the magneto cover, which shouldn't be keeping in any oil anyway. So if that damaged, that's not the source of your oil leak.. look else where.
What is it? looks like a push-rod CG engine.


My bike is a Honda CB500S. 1998

That picture i used just to identify the part. I have just shone a torch onto the area outside and there is a split right across the underneath of it. So if you look at the bike side on, the crack is going away from you towards the engine. As oppose to left to right

So where the bike has hit the deck on its left hand side and skidded for 3-4 yards, its cracked the casing. It looks like i can simply unbolt that one and replace with a second hand one, but if i can get away with a temp fix, ill do that.

Never had any oil leaks before, whatsoever, so i dont know if when the bike has been on its left hand side oil has made its way into that area from somewhere else, thus leaking.
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wr6133
World Chat Champion



Joined: 31 Dec 2013
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PostPosted: 07:36 - 20 Jan 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote
Not keeping the bike long term or riding it in to the ground.... case off, chem metal then use liquid gasket when putting it back on on.

Bikes a keeper or you like the thing..... decent used one on Ebay, new gasket.
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RickTaff
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Joined: 28 Jul 2016
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PostPosted: 07:51 - 20 Jan 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote
wr6133 wrote:
Not keeping the bike long term or riding it in to the ground.... case off, chem metal then use liquid gasket when putting it back on on.

Bikes a keeper or you like the thing..... decent used one on Ebay, new gasket.


Noob question most likely but could I use JB Weld to seal the crack as a temp fix. And if so, which JB weld, as there are a few variants
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wr6133
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Joined: 31 Dec 2013
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PostPosted: 08:22 - 20 Jan 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote
RickTaff wrote:
wr6133 wrote:
Not keeping the bike long term or riding it in to the ground.... case off, chem metal then use liquid gasket when putting it back on on.

Bikes a keeper or you like the thing..... decent used one on Ebay, new gasket.


Noob question most likely but could I use JB Weld to seal the crack as a temp fix. And if so, which JB weld, as there are a few variants


jb/chem metal potato/poh-tah-to.

check the marketing guff for which one to use. I despise the stuff and try to avoid it all together. Though that said when I bought my gsxr the stator cover had been done that way and painted, I didn't notice until 12 months later when I took the cover off for other reasons.

You may want to be sure though that you do have an actual oil leak there and not that its come from elsewhere and just settled there.
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Sister Sledge
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Joined: 17 Aug 2018
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PostPosted: 10:20 - 20 Jan 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote
Not of help for the repair but my engine - DRZ400 - does actually have some oil at the stator. Not loads and more like splash lubrication. It helps lube the starter sprag and gears.

I can't help much without an actual photo op but will say one forum user here bought a bike with similar damage and the engine was far worse than first thought.
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redeem ouzzer
World Chat Champion



Joined: 06 Oct 2015
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PostPosted: 11:32 - 20 Jan 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote
Teflon-Mike wrote:
What you have circled in that photo, AFAICT is the magneto cover, which shouldn't be keeping in any oil anyway. So if that damaged, that's not the source of your oil leak.. look else where.
What is it? looks like a push-rod CG engine.


God you're a fucking desk sometimes.

Plenty of bikes run the charging side in oil Rolling Eyes
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Robby
Dirty Old Man



Joined: 16 May 2002
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PostPosted: 21:59 - 20 Jan 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote
Those covers are cheap enough. Don't cock around with glue, get a new one.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 22:23 - 20 Jan 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote
Forced wrote:

God you're a fucking desk sometimes.

Plenty of bikes run the charging side in oil Rolling Eyes


But the specific engine the OP posted a picture of does not.

OP needs to post a picture of the actual damage before he can be properly advised. Not a random picture of a totally different motorbike engine.

Wouldn't be the first time someone assumed they'd damaged a cover but had actually damaged the crankcase and underlying componants too.

OP, do you have a good source of intense heat. Like a REALLY good blowlamp, oxy-propane set or MAPP gas? Because aluminium soldering can be used to fix some quite severe damage on crankcases/covers.
https://youtu.be/iQYF3qrLuWE

If you manage to repair it so it's oil-tight but it looks tatty, CB500 racers often fit composite "crash covers" to their bikes to stop what happened to you, happening. NB, this isn't the bit that holds the oil in, it goes over it for protection in a crash. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SPECIAL-OFFER-25-Honda-CB500-Bolt-on-engine-casing-covers-Made-in-UK/402029830564?hash=item5d9ad861a4:g:NKkAAOSwIeFbM0~1

Also important. If it's holed the cover you need to take the cover off to inspect the componants under it and to remove any bits of broken metal and road that WILL be in there before they bomb your engine. Pay particular attention to the casting the bolts screw into which can crack and break.

Do not just glue over the hole without first removing the cover.
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RickTaff
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Joined: 28 Jul 2016
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PostPosted: 03:31 - 21 Jan 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote
Just out of curiosity, I do not have access to those heat sources but i do know a welder who lives near me, is it possible at all to weld a patch over the crack, or will it just blow a hole in the material

Sorry, I clicked edit instead of quote here and guffed up your post (I can edit other peoples posts). I'm on a work PC and it appears MS edge doesn't allow me to go back and fix it like I can in firefox/chrome. ffs. -stinkwheel
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Riejufixing
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Joined: 24 Jun 2018
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PostPosted: 10:30 - 21 Jan 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote
RickTaff wrote:
i do know a welder who lives near me, is it possible at all to weld a patch over the crack, or will it just blow a hole in the material

If he can weld aluninium, he should be able to run some weld over it if it's just a crack (best grind it out first then fill).
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Easy-X
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Joined: 08 Mar 2019
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PostPosted: 11:27 - 21 Jan 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote
I wouldn't fret about it blowing out, there's not an amazing amount of pressure in the system... not intending to go drag racing are you? Laughing
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RickTaff
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Joined: 28 Jul 2016
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PostPosted: 11:33 - 21 Jan 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote
Easy-X wrote:
I wouldn't fret about it blowing out, there's not an amazing amount of pressure in the system... not intending to go drag racing are you? Laughing


most definitely not Laughing

managed to pick up a tube of something called QuikSteel. Garage i bought it from recommended it highly, used it many a time to patch crankcase cracks. It's like a putty you rub between your hands and then spread it over the crack.
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Islander
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Joined: 05 Aug 2012
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PostPosted: 12:08 - 21 Jan 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote
RickTaff wrote:
Easy-X wrote:
I wouldn't fret about it blowing out, there's not an amazing amount of pressure in the system... not intending to go drag racing are you? Laughing


most definitely not Laughing

managed to pick up a tube of something called QuikSteel. Garage i bought it from recommended it highly, used it many a time to patch crankcase cracks. It's like a putty you rub between your hands and then spread it over the crack.


You're going to need to remove all of the oil deposits quite thoroughly before you use any kind of epoxy product. Brake cleaner will do, but I'd still view that as a very temporary repair.

The best solution is to either replace the cover with one off of eBay or to use the low temperature aluminium soldering system that Stinkwheel mentioned.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 13:56 - 21 Jan 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote
TIG welding the crack is probably the gold standard repair for that kind of damage. Not all welders are comfortable with and/or set up for TIG welding aluminium though.

If there is a hairline crack, it's good practice to drill a "stop hole" at the very tip of the crack to prevent it propagating further.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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