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chaza
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Joined: 02 May 2018
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PostPosted: 14:16 - 26 Jan 2020    Post subject: Amp meter install Reply with quote

hi guys
I am wanting to install an amp meter yo my ajs raptor. What intend to do is installed, the meter on between the fused wire from the battery I think it goes to the ign sw, is that correct.

Thanks
Chaza
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 15:01 - 26 Jan 2020    Post subject: Re: Amp meter install Reply with quote

chaza wrote:
hi guys
I am wanting to install an amp meter yo my ajs raptor. What intend to do is installed, the meter on between the fused wire from the battery I think it goes to the ign sw, is that correct.

Thanks
Chaza


Are you sure you mean amps?

Typically you measure volts. Amps measures the current drawn so will depend on what circuits you put it in series and when you turn the lights on and off the reading will change.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 15:07 - 26 Jan 2020    Post subject: Re: Amp meter install Reply with quote

chaza wrote:
What intend to do is installed, the meter on between the fused wire from the battery I think it goes to the ign sw, is that correct.


Kind of.

You need to be mindful of where the charging output from the reg/rec enters the circuit.

If you want the ammeter to show charge/discharge, the reg/rec feed needs to be on the "bike" side of the ammeter, not the "batttery" side.

It's quite common for the charging input to connect at the starter solenoid at which point you need to start re-jigging the wiring.

Looking at a really small and shitty wiring diagram for your bike. It seems like the regulator output connects to the fuse holder itself. If you find that fuse holder, I think there will be two wires on the "bike" side of it. Your ammeter needs to connect between the fuse and these two wires.

I would say the easiest way to do this is to connect the ammeter in that wire going to the ignition switch like you propose. Disconnect the wire going into the fuse holder from the regulator and run a new length of wire from the regulator up to the "bike" side of the ammeter.

What I think you have is on the left. What you want is on the right.

https://www.bikechatforums.com/download.php?id=103078

EDIT: As above, this is for am AMMETER. Which will measure both the quantity and direction of current in your charging system. Not often used but probably the best way to monitor your charging system, the needle will swing one way if the battery is charging and the other way if it's discharging. If you connect a VOLTMETER like this, it'll go bang.
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 17:01 - 26 Jan 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have never been a great fan of ammeters because while they tell you if your alternator is coping or not coping with the electrical load they don't really do much else.

A volt meter, as Nobby says, is a much better instrument for ascertaining battery condition and charging condition. Even as a relatively inaccurate dial gauge it can be used for basic fault finding and it's simple to install.
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JackButler
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PostPosted: 17:22 - 26 Jan 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

My ammeter is mounted next to my voltometer which is mounted next to the oil pressure gauge which is mounted next to the oil temperature gauge which is underneath the fuel flow which is next to the fuel pressure. The inclinometer is just slightly to the left but the BIG important one, the decibel meter, is mounted centrally so's not to block my view of the clapometer & the Geiger counter.

This bike goes nowhere unless they all read the correct levels.
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steve the grease
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PostPosted: 18:08 - 26 Jan 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's not really fair to say that ammeters are rarely used. Virtually every British bike more sophisticated than a BSA Bantam had one.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 18:17 - 26 Jan 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Go full house...
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 20:13 - 26 Jan 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

steve the grease wrote:
It's not really fair to say that ammeters are rarely used. Virtually every British bike more sophisticated than a BSA Bantam had one.


And they were bloody useless then as well.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 20:27 - 26 Jan 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

steve the grease wrote:
It's not really fair to say that ammeters are rarely used. Virtually every British bike more sophisticated than a BSA Bantam had one.


So why doesn't my sprint have one?
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chaza
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Joined: 02 May 2018
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PostPosted: 20:50 - 26 Jan 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys for all your input, I think I know what to do. All I need to do is find one that looks good on my bike.


Thanks again
Chsza
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 22:04 - 26 Jan 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I find them really useful. As above, it tells you if your charging system is keeping up with the loss. it will tell you if your regulator has failed (either over or undercharging). You can test the lights (needle dips when turned on) and if you have points ignition, it tells you the exact point where the points start to open and is a useful guide for where to place the engine for kick-starting.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 22:25 - 26 Jan 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
I find them really useful. As above, it tells you if your charging system is keeping up with the loss. it will tell you if your regulator has failed (either over or undercharging). You can test the lights (needle dips when turned on) and if you have points ignition, it tells you the exact point where the points start to open and is a useful guide for where to place the engine for kick-starting.


Points Shocked

When did I last see points Thinking Ah yes, a Mk1 1000cc Goldwing from 1977 I think.
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G
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PostPosted: 23:43 - 26 Jan 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can get hall effect amp meters with remote displays if you want to easily play with the location - also shunt options with the same remote displays. These also show voltage when wired appropriately.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 00:55 - 27 Jan 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Voltmeter first
its all you need.
Ammeter if you really really must but get a non invasive sensing type as G suggested as they're easier to fit and you wont have two heavy cables
running from the battery/main fuse area to the clocks and back
to worry about protecting.
(short those buggers out and see what happens)

If a voltmeter shows you're getting a steady voltage around 13.9/14V at all loads then 99% of the time yer good.
Stop staring at the clocks and pay attention to the road !!
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chaza
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PostPosted: 18:08 - 29 Jan 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi guys
I decided to go with a volt meter, I intend to take the positive from the ignition sw, and ground it to the frame somewhere, will that be ok.

Cheers fellas
Chaza
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 18:13 - 29 Jan 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you mean a positive that is switched on from the IGN switch then yes.
When it's up and running, check it against a meter reading across the battery terminals now and again to check its reliability.
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chaza
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PostPosted: 18:29 - 29 Jan 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers WD, I never thought about the check across thd battery, I'll do that,
Thanks again


Chaza
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