Adjusting brake pedal free play on a drum brake.

[BananaLover]

My bike has too much free play and failed mot. The problem is if I adjust the bolt brakes get tighter, and by the time there's not too much free play the bike is much harder to move.

I believe the correct way to go about this would be to adjust the brake pedal shaft, but it's behind my exhaust which is a pain to remove because those bolts are rounded.
I wanted to ask is adjusting the brake arm on the drum a valid solution here? If I was to take it off, and rotate it to the right (in the direction it goes when I brake), that should get rid of the excessive free play while not tightening the brakes, correct? Do I need to know anything else before I proceed?

Thanks!
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YAMAHA XVS650 DRAGSTAR 1999

[Nobby the Bastard]

[redeem ouzzer]

You can adjust the free play by moving the operating arm on the drum, but bare in mind if overdone you can possibly get the cam to go “over centre” under hard braking, basically locking the brake on solid and likely causing an accident. You should adjust an SLS drum with the wheel off the ground until the shoes are just starting to rub, then back off Just until the rubbing stops.
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Be a REAL MAN!

[steve the grease]

I've messed about doing all this 'move arm on shaft' stuff in the past. It's just not worth the effort. As the brake cam moves from the -- position to an angled / position you loose the effectiveness of the pedal, ( mechanical advantage being the proper term) lots of pressing for not much more braking. Just bite the bullet and get a new set of brake shoes from Brooksbarn or Wemoto or somewhere else , there are loads of cheap brands. A cheap and 100% effective cure for your not very effective rear brake. gently lube the cam spindle whilst it's all apart.
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All the above is my personal opinion, you can see my lips move, but I'm talking out of my arse.
I've been riding, and fixing , bikes for 50 years, in that time the more I learn, the less I am absolutely sure of.....

[Pete.]

[Riejufixing]

[Teflon-Mike]

On the actual pedal, there should be both a pedal stop and a return spring. If the MOT Man has moaned, I would be looking to be sure that the pedal was actually returning to the stop, and that the mot-mans moan wasn't that there was a heck of a lot of pedal movement from where the pedal comes to rest, without a stop or a maladjusted stop, until where it starts to work the shoes....
A new set of shoes is probably not a bad call, but, I'd check the whole linkage first 'cos a new set of shoes on thier own wont do bludger all if that aint right., and mot man could still moan.
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My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?'

[MCN]

[steve the grease]

On the topic again , but just to reiterate.... If the shoes are worn out Then the cam is at maximum deflection such that the cam effect is lost.
A lot of pedal travel results in little movement of the shoes towards the drum. Just fit new shoes........ and as if by magic it all works again.
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All the above is my personal opinion, you can see my lips move, but I'm talking out of my arse.
I've been riding, and fixing , bikes for 50 years, in that time the more I learn, the less I am absolutely sure of.....

[Riejufixing]

[Easy-X]

I dunno if this is right but a thought just popped into my head...

oh no, here we go again!

Assuming this is your basic arm + rod arrangement of back brake, loosen off the rod entirely so the arm can move freely. Measure the angle the arm can move before hitting resistance. Less than 45° then you're just talking adjustment, more than 45° is entering the danger zone and approaching 90° = death machine.

TBH 45° is a number I just plucked out of the air but it sounds about right

Anyhoo, if there's too much travel - as others have pointed out - there's a danger of "camming over" and then the back wheel is 100% definitely coming off to examine the brake shoes and/or lining surface.
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Royal Enfield Continental GT 535, Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter