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CBF500 general loss of power across rev range

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lmcbf500
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PostPosted: 20:51 - 04 Feb 2020    Post subject: CBF500 general loss of power across rev range Reply with quote

Hello all.

Need your help with an issue on a CBF500 2006 which I bought recently.

It had low miles and when I drove it home the bike was fine. Close to home it started running rough - low power (would not go up steep hills for example). The bike had sat for extended periods of time. On getting home it had a rough idle.

The petrol smelled off like paint thinners and a bad colour so thinking it was probably off-fuel I drained the tank and cleaned the carbs and jets out.

Put the bike back together and she now idles good and revs smooth at standstill and I can rev to the redline but on the move has a general lack of power (comparing against an identical bike of my friends). In low gears the throttle should be urgent and it accelerates at maybe half the rate it should. In higher gears it might only get to 5 or 6k revs due to the lack of power. Bike still feels like it is running smooth, just under powered.

I have also replaced plugs, checked stator voltages and checked regulator. The bike had a new battery fitted also.

Anyone have any ideas based on my symptoms? Forget what I have done/checked - based on my symptoms what do you guys think the issue might be or where should I start to troubleshoot?

Thanks in advance
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 21:08 - 04 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

When starting from cold do all the exhaust headers get scalding hot virtually immediately?
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lmcbf500
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PostPosted: 21:51 - 04 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
When starting from cold do all the exhaust headers get scalding hot virtually immediately?


I would need to check that Nobby.

Should they or shoudnt they?

Thanks
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 21:53 - 04 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, they should.

They should be scalding hot within a couple of seconds of the bike starting. If any one taks noticably longer than that then that cylinder probably isn't firing.
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lmcbf500
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PostPosted: 22:05 - 04 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Yes, they should.

They should be scalding hot within a couple of seconds of the bike starting. If any one taks noticably longer than that then that cylinder probably isn't firing.


I havnt actaully checked the pipes when the bike was running - I assumed it wasnt something as major as this as the engine sounds normal. Would it still sound normal if one was firing and one was not?
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 23:17 - 04 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

If a 50bhp, twin cylinder bike can't go up a steep hill, running on one cylinder would be my first suspicion too.

So I'd check it's running on two and if it isn't, I'd check for a spark on the dead side first-off.
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lmcbf500
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PostPosted: 00:13 - 05 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
If a 50bhp, twin cylinder bike can't go up a steep hill, running on one cylinder would be my first suspicion too.

So I'd check it's running on two and if it isn't, I'd check for a spark on the dead side first-off.


Ok I will do this tomorrow folks and report back. Thanks
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 00:38 - 05 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

"""""The petrol smelled off like paint thinners and a bad colour so thinking it was probably off-fuel I drained the tank and cleaned the carbs and jets out.""""

If you didn`t clean the tank out like the 6 carb jets did you fit an inline fuel filter?
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lmcbf500
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PostPosted: 00:57 - 05 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

jaffa90 wrote:
"""""The petrol smelled off like paint thinners and a bad colour so thinking it was probably off-fuel I drained the tank and cleaned the carbs and jets out.""""

If you didn`t clean the tank out like the 6 carb jets did you fit an inline fuel filter?


Should have said I cleaned the tank out also. Thanks for highlighting tho.



I am just thinking - the CBF has 1 carb vent tube which runs from the airbox side of the carbs up to a location that sits open to atmosphere on top of the airbox. If this vent tube was fitted incorrectly or blocked would that cause my issue? ie if blocked or sucking in warm air from around the engine this would not allow the float bowls to vent out to allow the fuel to refill?
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 06:31 - 05 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the vent tube is not blocked that's all that counts. Do the check that Nobby suggests, use a wet cloth to see. Once it's been running for 20 seconds wipe the cloth quickly on the headers and you'll see it evaporate immediately.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 07:27 - 05 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's working and then suddenly stops working it's not the fuel. It could be crap in the tank blocking jets but that's relatively rare.

Almost every fault turns out to be electrical so I'd really be starting there after finding out one of your cylinders isn't working (which it isn't, the hotness test is just to prove it before we go any further)
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 12:33 - 05 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

lmcbf500 wrote:
Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Yes, they should.

They should be scalding hot within a couple of seconds of the bike starting. If any one taks noticably longer than that then that cylinder probably isn't firing.


I havnt actaully checked the pipes when the bike was running - I assumed it wasnt something as major as this as the engine sounds normal. Would it still sound normal if one was firing and one was not?


If someone was to play you audio of an engine running both cylinders on idle and then with one down you'd definitely be able to tell the difference but with no reference point, not so much.

What's with damp rags BTW? Don't you guys have infra-red gun thermometers in the tool box?!
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 12:49 - 05 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Easy-X wrote:



What's with damp rags BTW? Don't you guys have infra-red gun thermometers in the tool box?!


I still check clearances by tapping the top of the valve adjuster and judging the size of the gap by how loud the tapping noise is.

Besides, it's not whats in my tool box, it's whats in HIS toolbox.
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lmcbf500
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PostPosted: 12:55 - 05 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok guys both downpipes very hot after 20 seconds and sounds fine as first thought.

What next?

She revs sweet as a nut at idle. Just run her up to temp now.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 13:16 - 05 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

So what's left? Thinking

Not enough fuel, not enough airflow, slight loss of compression, timing issues? Bet it's one of those Laughing
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lmcbf500
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PostPosted: 13:21 - 05 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yea exactly Confused

I’ve only ever had FI bikes so carbs are a mystery to me when it comes to troubleshooting. That’s why I’m asking on here the common things I should start with after cleaning them out.
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2wheelLover51
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PostPosted: 15:20 - 05 Feb 2020    Post subject: Lacking power. Reply with quote

The brakes aren't binding are they? First thing I'd do is whip out the plugs to check for condition and the colour to gauge if the mixture (fuel/air ratio) is as it should be. Plugs should be a light tan, or a bit lighter. If they're all sooty or oily it would indicate running too rich or worn rings/piston. A compression test would also be a good idea, low readings indicating badly sealing valves.
Since the bikes running smoothly low compression from some cause would result in the lack of power you're talking about.
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lmcbf500
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PostPosted: 15:23 - 05 Feb 2020    Post subject: Re: Lacking power. Reply with quote

2wheelLover51 wrote:
The brakes aren't binding are they? First thing I'd do is whip out the plugs to check for condition and the colour to gauge if the mixture (fuel/air ratio) is as it should be. Plugs should be a light tan, or a bit lighter. If they're all sooty or oily it would indicate running too rich or worn rings/piston. A compression test would also be a good idea, low readings indicating badly sealing valves.
Since the bikes running smoothly low compression from some cause would result in the lack of power you're talking about.


Hi, no brakes are fine, had thought this initially. Plugs are brand new and have literally just done test miles since the issue first arose. I could arranage a compression test, but given the bike ran fine and then didnt on the run home could a compression problem just come out of nowhere like that, I’d have thought this would have been an issue that slowly got worse over time? Thanks
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 19:10 - 05 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have a look at the air filter. I've seen them so clogged a bike wouldn't rev.
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lmcbf500
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PostPosted: 19:16 - 05 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
Have a look at the air filter. I've seen them so clogged a bike wouldn't rev.


The filter looks ok. I am going to pull it out and take it for a spin now without filter to rule that out.

I tried opening the tank filler and riding incase there was a vacuum issue there but no difference. Also noticed a small drop of petrol out of one of the overflow pipes below the kickstand when I came back.
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Tdibs
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PostPosted: 20:52 - 05 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would twist off the ht lead caps and inspect/look for any cracking in the lead, or any corrosion on the bare wire, even pin hole cracks can still arc. Having it idle fine, then dropping a cylinder when you give it some welly sounds a lot like a bad ht lead. If no dice then I would pull the carbs and go from there.

Also worth checking the fuel line has no kinks/hard corners if you have had the tank on and off.

Is there a notice change in tone when it loses power? feel more vibey?
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lmcbf500
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PostPosted: 21:05 - 05 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tdibs wrote:
I would twist off the ht lead caps and inspect/look for any cracking in the lead, or any corrosion on the bare wire, even pin hole cracks can still arc. Having it idle fine, then dropping a cylinder when you give it some welly sounds a lot like a bad ht lead. If no dice then I would pull the carbs and go from there.

Also worth checking the fuel line has no kinks/hard corners if you have had the tank on and off.

Is there a notice change in tone when it loses power? feel more vibey?


Hi tdibs, no noticeable change in sound at all, I don’t believe it is dropping a cylinder. Just very low on power and doesn’t freely rev like it should when under load. I’ve taken plugs out after 10 miles of riding and they have a white tip with oily threads. The exhaust muffler tip is sooty also...which is making me think the bike is running rich? No?
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lmcbf500
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PostPosted: 21:07 - 05 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tdibs wrote:
I would twist off the ht lead caps and inspect/look for any cracking in the lead, or any corrosion on the bare wire, even pin hole cracks can still arc. Having it idle fine, then dropping a cylinder when you give it some welly sounds a lot like a bad ht lead. If no dice then I would pull the carbs and go from there.

Also worth checking the fuel line has no kinks/hard corners if you have had the tank on and off.

Is there a notice change in tone when it loses power? feel more vibey?
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 22:43 - 05 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

A white tipped plug is a lean burn, oily threads only, sounds strange if no external oil when removing them.
Sooty cans sounds like shit fuel / starting engine and not riding it.
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lmcbf500
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PostPosted: 09:20 - 06 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

jaffa90 wrote:
A white tipped plug is a lean burn, oily threads only, sounds strange if no external oil when removing them.
Sooty cans sounds like shit fuel / starting engine and not riding it.


Thanks. I’ve cracked the carbs off again and going to attempt a 2nd clean. Possibly missed some dirt first time round in the small jets causing the lean condition.
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