Disc bolt corrosion

[B0ndy]

Is it worth replacing these?

And if so would you go OEM or Probolt (£80 for front set, stainless steel) ?

Only surface corrosion but it's bothering me and if it gets worse it may be a pig to get them out when the discs need replacing. What do you think bcf

https://i.imgur.com/XOnSC7r.jpg
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CBF 125 -> CB400SF -> GSX600F -> ZX6R (G1) -> GSXR1000 K4 -> ZX6R (B1H Stunt bike) -> VFR800 -> R1 5PW -> Sprint 1050 -> Fireblade 929 -> ZX10R C2H -> GSXR1000 K3

[ThunderGuts]

I have a feeling it's recommended to change bolts with the discs (presumably on the assumption you'll wear through the disc faster than the bolts would corrode)? I wouldn't bother with stainless steel personally nor would I change those in isolation unless they're really bothering you - I very much doubt there's any significant structural deterioration.
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TG.

[Tankie]

If their nothing special replace them , have a look and see if there is something suitable in Toolstation, they do stainless at a good price
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Always learning, everyday is a school day

[Sister Sledge]

They'll be a harder type of metal which will corrode yes but not like you see on other bolts - it's just surface stuff.
Avoid stainless and just get suitable replacements if they're bothering you. Have you tried taking one out to look at the hidden parts? You'll probably see no change.

I can get replacements for mine from Haines & Co for 65p each.
Buy suitable parts from a good supplier because your life (and others) depends on them.
ToolStation or Screwfix sell basic stuff. They buy it cheap to sell it cheap and it might be good for holding a shed roof on but it ain't good for stopping 1/4 ton at 60 mph.
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CCM 404 DS

[Tankie]

Are you a metallurgist ? if they are hard bolts they will be marked with a hardness number.

By the way I'm a 383 Qualified Technician, my advice is correct and good
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Always learning, everyday is a school day

[Grubscrew]

I would replace them, because the rust will then corrode the disc next to each bolt.
There are titanium bolts which I fitted on both my bikes. Strong and corrosion resistant.
If you do remove, you’ll find the originals will have been loctited in , so my suggestion is to warm gently the area where the bolts screw in, it just eases the the loctite.
Do not use an impact battery wrench....you’ll snap the head off...then you’ll be well cheesed off.
Get some new loctite thread lock, low or medium strength.
Good luck.
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FJR1300/CBR1000F

[Sister Sledge]

[Tdibs]

Id rub them down and carefully black hammerite or polish them up and forget about them.
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Previous : 09 Vanvan 125| 02' Sv650s || Current: 1999 Xj600n | 1992 DR650 RSE | 2005 Fazer 1000

[Riejufixing]

[Tankie]

Firstly, what the fuck is a '383 Qualified Technician'? Google doesn't tell me
Ok turd , I'm a fellow of the institute of the City & guilds qualified on motor vehicles ,
MOT tester for cars and motor cycles.

what the fukc are you to advise on technical subjects as material hardness?...…. your not
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Always learning, everyday is a school day

[Ste]

[Pete.]

[Riejufixing]

[Sister Sledge]

Honestly, some people can't help but bark when they should shut up.
Interesting how the argument has gone two ways..

Metalurgy - blacksmith/welder so stick that up your arse and smoke it. You repair cars then - so in other words you replace LIKE FOR LIKE.

Op - go spend less than £10 on GENUINE PARTS which will SAVE YOUR LIFE.
The toilet guy reckons your life is worth less than £10.

The more I think about the toilet guy, the more I think about that sound when you tap a plank of wood with your knuckle..
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CCM 404 DS

[Pete.]

[Sister Sledge]

[ThunderGuts]

There are lots of different grades of a given metal, some will be more malleable and others harder along with a suite of other properties. Shear strength is the important property in this application, not tensile strength. It's entirely possible that Screwfix bolts have the same steel (or stainless steel) as "proper" brake disc bolts, but even then things like QA checking might be different meaning your Screwfix/budget bolts aren't manufactured to the same tolerances.

Something else to consider (although I don't think it's likely that either they'd fail in all honesty, or that it could be proved); if your brakes failed because non-brake specific bolts were used to hold the disc on, I can't image your insurance company would be very impressed.

I'd look at the bolts removed, if they look OK just leave them, otherwise replace with brake-specific ones.
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TG.

[bikenut]

I would replace them or at least some anti corrosion treatment, if you can get them out all ok and they do not "round off" first.

Stainless Steel is great, but a volve penta ( archamidies anchor more like ) outboard motor had stainless steel bolts and screws etc. and every dam one was a real battle to get out!! Admittedly its was an outboard motor used on the brinney, and stainless steel in alloy, but a real battle non the less. It took many many many hours just to remove covers, not to mention cylinder heads etc. etc. etc. It would have been much cheaper to use this motor as an anchor and get a new motor ffs!

Be prepared for a battle getting those allan bolts out, you have a MIG??
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nuts about bikes

[A100man]

[WHRSN83]

[Pigeon]

[Fizzer Thou]

Whenever I have disc bolts out I always use the blue Loctite.

Some bolts are pre-threadlocked

https://yambits.co.uk/fj1200a-brake-disc-bolt-kit-rear-p-14215.html
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Just talk bikes.What else is there?

Always have a 'Plan B'

[Howling TerrorOutOfOffice]

I use threadlock as per the manual for the duke.
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[ZRX61]

[Nobby the Bastard]

Hey now, hey now now

Sing disk bolt corrosion to me

(After all we're looking at a hit from yesteryear....)
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Triumph Sprint ST 1050