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Kawasaki 2012 er6-n Starting problems

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Kernel
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 19 Feb 2020
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PostPosted: 08:48 - 19 Feb 2020    Post subject: Kawasaki 2012 er6-n Starting problems Reply with quote

Hi, I've had an er6-n 2012 model since new and I love that I haven't had any major issues with it all this time. Now I'm having problems with the start. At first, the problem was minimal only happening once maybe twice a week, now it's happening every day and it's completely unreliable. The electrics all come on but when I try to start the engine it just turns over and sounds like there's no petrol when in fact there is a full tank. For a while, it did start after I turned the engine off and tried to start it again. Now, it doesn't want to do that anymore and takes a lot longer to start or doesn't start at all. I have used a fuel system cleaner and it seemed to help with no problems for a few days, but then the problem persisted. Kawasaki insisted I replace the fuel pump so, I did. This has not solved the problem! Any help out there with what this issue could be and advice on how to resolve it would be greatly appreciated. The video link is the problem I'm having. Thank you.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JZODJ-TDsnc&feature=emb_logo
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BTTD
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Joined: 22 Nov 2012
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PostPosted: 09:31 - 19 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

For the bike to start it need fuel, air, and a spark.
Check each one methodically - have a look on youtube on different ways to test spark and fuel. Air is unlikely to be the problem unless something has built a nest in the air filter and blocked it. Check that too.

It sounds like you're being directed to a fuel issue by the garage, so...
Does the bike have an in tank fuel filter? Did you change that out when you changed the pump?
What kind of state are the in tank fuel lines in?

I had an old BMW where the in the tank fuel lines degraded, started to delaminate and turn into rubber gum. Consequently they clogged the fuel filter and knackered the pump.
Or it could be a build up of other crap blocking the fuel filter.
Or it could be spark - does the bike have a seperate coil for each plug, and are you getting a good spark?
Watch a couole of youtube vids and go through some basic checks in a methodical manner.
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Nobby the Bastard
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Joined: 16 Aug 2013
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PostPosted: 10:08 - 19 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep. It could be any number of problems. At least its turning 9ver so you can probably discount charging and battery related issues.

I would start with checking for sparks and then fuel.
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Easy-X
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Joined: 08 Mar 2019
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PostPosted: 10:59 - 19 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

jnw010 wrote:
For the bike to start it need fuel, air, and a spark. and compression!


FTFY Smile

Although to be fair you probably wouldn't manage to to start it at all with no compression.

Try starting it over, pull the plugs and see if they're damp with fuel and while they're out check the spark. Fair warning: the fairings are coming off, get used to the idea Very Happy
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MCN
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PostPosted: 14:07 - 19 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Yep. It could be any number of problems. At least its turning 9ver so you can probably discount charging and battery related issues.

I would start with checking for sparks and then fuel.


The sparks are buried under the fuel tank and airbox absolute cnut to get into.
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Nobby the Bastard
Harley Gaydar



Joined: 16 Aug 2013
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PostPosted: 14:10 - 19 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:
Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Yep. It could be any number of problems. At least its turning 9ver so you can probably discount charging and battery related issues.

I would start with checking for sparks and then fuel.


The sparks are buried under the fuel tank and airbox absolute cnut to get into.


Easier to get to than the valves which is another possibility.
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BTTD
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Joined: 22 Nov 2012
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PostPosted: 14:23 - 19 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Easy-X wrote:
jnw010 wrote:
For the bike to start it need fuel, air, and a spark. and compression!


FTFY Smile

Although to be fair you probably wouldn't manage to to start it at all with no compression.


True, I'd also expect plumes of blue smoke and loss of power in the run up as symptons.
Still, stranger things happen.
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 01:21 - 20 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

The video link shows a guy using 2 switches to eventually start the engine, so why not forget the kill switch and twiddle the ignition key with engine running to see if it stops the engine? The wiring diagram shows seven wires in and out of the switch. Shocked
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MCN
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PostPosted: 12:20 - 20 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just opened you clip.

How many fcuking bikes do you need? 😲

🤣

What I can see is the Kill Switch On
Crank no start
Kill Switch Off
Kill Switch On
Crank start.

The issue 'looks' like dirty kill switch contacts.
Or faulty kill switch PCB.
Fit a new PCB.

Tell Kawasaki you want to claim as a recall.

The dealer should know or advise on this.

The fuel pump may be 'the most common' reason they know. From either dealer experience or OEM diagnostic advice.

But phaphing with the Kill Switch before it starts looks like kill switch problems not fuel pump.

Or we are missing some info from the story. 🤔
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 18:59 - 20 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN???
"""What I can see is the Kill Switch On
Crank no start
Kill Switch Off
Kill Switch On
Crank start."""


Specsavers???????????????
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MCN
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PostPosted: 21:42 - 20 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

jaffa90 wrote:
MCN???
"""What I can see is the Kill Switch On
Crank no start
Kill Switch Off
Kill Switch On
Crank start."""


Specsavers???????????????


There no need to consider the ignition switch and the start button (switch).

What are the 'two' switches you say the guy in the clip fiddles with?

Looking again at the clip.

There are two amber lamps the one on the right os flashing on the failed start.
After switching the Kill on off the amber lamp on the right is off (doesn't flash).
That may be a diagnostic lamp flashing a code.

I don't know the value of this video as there isnt any explanation.

I still think the issue is the Kill Switch.
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 22:56 - 20 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

We will see Wink
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MCN
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PostPosted: 00:52 - 21 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

jaffa90 wrote:
The video link shows a guy using 2 switches to eventually start the engine, so why not forget the kill switch and twiddle the ignition key with engine running to see if it stops the engine? The wiring diagram shows seven wires in and out of the switch. Shocked


I cannot see the other switch.
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 01:32 - 21 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

""""What are the 'two' switches you say the guy in the clip fiddles with?""" Answer= None.

The ignition switch, kill switch and starter switch are used more than once to start the bike.

The starter switch sounds ok, the kill switch should kill the start button and fuel pump and prevent the engine from turning over.

This leaves the ignition switch.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 14:14 - 21 Feb 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

jaffa90 wrote:
The video link shows a guy using 2 switches to eventually start the engine, so why not forget the kill switch and twiddle the ignition key with engine running to see if it stops the engine? The wiring diagram shows seven wires in and out of the switch. Shocked


For the sake of discussion, I would only use the term switch for the Kill Switch.

The Start Button although a switch is still known as 'a start button'.

And ignition as ignition.

I wanted to know if I missed some 2nd switch that you referred to.

For the record, I do not/no longer use Specsavers BTW Boots are more friendly.
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