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Seized caliper

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Hong Kong Phooey
World Chat Champion



Joined: 30 Apr 2016
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PostPosted: 15:45 - 16 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:
Hong Kong Phooey wrote:
Ok, I'll bite. To what degree do Brembo machine in this uneven wear on brand new discs?
I did also state that warped discs might not be the only cause.

Flushes out what exactly?
https://www.thetriumphforum.com/threads/abs-bleeding-breaks.14130/

Not just US. I believe if you can get it, it's old stock. Probably marked not for road use too.


In order.

I have no idea.

Brake fluid. Your link actually states that the brakes can be bled without the software. Think of it this way when the bike is switched off the brakes still work. Obviously on a Harley the brakes never work Wink

The blue stuff is/was only non-compliant to DOT standards due to the dye, it was still DOT 4.


My point being he has no idea of the history, blue old fluid is probably just blue old stock fluid and should be replaced in entirety. No idea if he'd even ridden it until about the 4th reply.

He has no idea if air is, or has ever been in the ABS module, so it's wise to bleed it fully, properly.

BTW he's already done the master cylinder.

OP, what is the disc thickness and runout?
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jaffa90
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Joined: 06 Apr 2016
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PostPosted: 16:01 - 16 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

"""Some also suggested changing the master cylinder which was also done."""

Not the seals though?

THE PLOT THICKENS.
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sickpup
Old Timer



Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 16:11 - 16 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hong Kong Phooey wrote:
My point being he has no idea of the history, blue old fluid is probably just blue old stock fluid and should be replaced in entirety.


Why?

Hong Kong Phooey wrote:
He has no idea if air is, or has ever been in the ABS module, so it's wise to bleed it fully, properly.


Possible, but as the ABS hasn't kicked in unlikely but possible.

Hong Kong Phooey wrote:
BTW he's already done the master cylinder.


2nd hand unknown quanitity.
Its also had new discs so why do you think the master cylinder must be ok but the discs are warped?

The better question to ask the OP is if he pulls the Brake lever at night does it go back to the bar in the morning.
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Hong Kong Phooey
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Joined: 30 Apr 2016
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PostPosted: 17:51 - 16 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:
Hong Kong Phooey wrote:
My point being he has no idea of the history, blue old fluid is probably just blue old stock fluid and should be replaced in entirety.


Why?

Hong Kong Phooey wrote:
He has no idea if air is, or has ever been in the ABS module, so it's wise to bleed it fully, properly.


Possible, but as the ABS hasn't kicked in unlikely but possible.

Hong Kong Phooey wrote:
BTW he's already done the master cylinder.


2nd hand unknown quanitity.
Its also had new discs so why do you think the master cylinder must be ok but the discs are warped?

The better question to ask the OP is if he pulls the Brake lever at night does it go back to the bar in the morning.


Are they new?
Are they warped?

Two measure points asked for will confirm.

The old ATE blue was pulled from the market around 2012, can we be certain that the fluid is good?
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steve the grease
Crazy Courier



Joined: 26 Jan 2018
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PostPosted: 03:01 - 17 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

A column of fluid is incompressible , so if the lever is coming back to the bar there is some air somewhere. It almost sounds like the hose has collapsed internally , it does happen. What happens if you push both pistons in at once? If they won't budge it suggest the fluid cant get back up the pipe....
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I've been riding, and fixing , bikes for 50 years, in that time the more I learn, the less I am absolutely sure of.....
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Nobby the Bastard
Harley Gaydar



Joined: 16 Aug 2013
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PostPosted: 08:09 - 17 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Collapsing internally will make it act like a one way valve, making the brake lock on. This isnt what has happened in this instance.
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Gazz
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Joined: 19 May 2009
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PostPosted: 18:59 - 20 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Been back out at the bike today after trying something that was suggested on another forum:

Which was; took the n/s caliper off and hung up on the o/s fairing so that the curve in the brake line ( which bends over the wheel) was straightened out. Left it a couple of days with the brake lever cable tied. And went back and bled the brakes today with caliper in the air.

And........

Still the same story. Crying or Very sad

First pull comes back to lever, subsequent pulls firm's it up. Leave it for a few seconds and it's back to the lever.

Check the hoses for any signs of wear or anything but nothing looks untoward.

The only thing I can think of is perhaps buying another lever with a straighter arm on it but that's not exactly fixing the issue.
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cresad
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Joined: 02 Jun 2014
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PostPosted: 19:51 - 20 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi , I’ve been going through exactly this problem recently. My solution came after getting both front calipers refurbished and still having a soft lever , my pipes split above the mudguard then are single down both sides. I ended up getting a master cylinder seal kit and fitting that after fitting that and bleeding the system , low and behold I’ve got a working brake. I will be changing the pipes eventually but need to get some higher bars first but I’m now back on the road which is a relief.

Good luck
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Gazz
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Joined: 19 May 2009
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PostPosted: 21:39 - 20 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

cresad wrote:
Hi , I’ve been going through exactly this problem recently. My solution came after getting both front calipers refurbished and still having a soft lever , my pipes split above the mudguard then are single down both sides. I ended up getting a master cylinder seal kit and fitting that after fitting that and bleeding the system , low and behold I’ve got a working brake. I will be changing the pipes eventually but need to get some higher bars first but I’m now back on the road which is a relief.

Good luck


Do you have the same bike?
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cresad
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Joined: 02 Jun 2014
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PostPosted: 00:48 - 21 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not sure , mines an ‘01 600 bandit but brakes are brakes whichever bike it is.
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sickpup
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Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 01:45 - 21 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

cresad wrote:
I ended up getting a master cylinder seal kit and fitting that after fitting that and bleeding the system , low and behold I’ve got a working brake.


Don't forget to update your own thread with the conclusion.

Master cylinder seals are mostly ignored. They sit there out of site and their decline is pretty gradual and then you suddenly realise that you have changed every part of the brake system over the last decade except the master cylinder seals. The first sign most people see is that the brakes are a bit spongy but they then bleed them till they convince themselves that they are better until it gets to the point that they are getting harder and harder to bleed.

For the £20-£30 it costs for a set of master cylinder seals its probably the cheapest place to start when you have odd brake problems.
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Old Thread Alert!

The last post was made 4 years, 38 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
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