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Cbr600 2002 Engine wont idle/run when warm

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kramdra
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PostPosted: 15:17 - 19 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not sure what your on about, the oil was changed recently, and before that was at 122k, 108k, 100k, 91k, 83k. About every 9 months. I was doing a lot more miles last year and did not notice it was due. The oil never needs topping up.

Yes I expect the extended 14k has caused some sludge/wear or damage.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 17:28 - 19 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

kramdra wrote:
Not sure what your on about, the oil was changed recently, and before that was at 122k, 108k, 100k, 91k, 83k. About every 9 months. I was doing a lot more miles last year and did not notice it was due. The oil never needs topping up.


So when you wrote this it was just a brain fart then?

kramdra wrote:
Yes I use quality oil. No the last change was at 13k as I did not keep track of it.


kramdra wrote:
Yes I expect the extended 14k has caused some sludge/wear or damage.


Probably none at all.
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 20:29 - 22 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

After much cleaning, got the rocker cover off, and there is plenty of space to work so this should be much easier than I imagined.

There is immediately some fukkery obvious. The rocker cover has not been touched since dealer head the head off at 35k miles. When I got it back it was noisey, but has not increased since.

https://i.postimg.cc/B6pPW8qr/IMG-20200522-190333.jpg

Looks like the cam bearing cover is cracked. Does not look like casting lines. Bad assembly?
https://i.postimg.cc/XqDZJTBx/IMG-20200522-190818.jpg

I will check clearances tomorrow then get the cam bearing cover off.

I could use a rough idea what temper the new shims should be, will probably make them from silversteel or en24.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 22:21 - 22 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ffs just buy some from wemoto.

Why do you need to know what the temper they are. It's not like you have to make the fucking things.
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 02:08 - 23 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I could buy them but wont take long to make. That will beat waiting a week for delivery and a fiver each.

60 quid for a new chain guide. Another part I'll probably make. https://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/parts/by-part-number/hpart_14546MBW000/
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 19:59 - 23 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

To make this more interesting, my clutch casing no longer has the index mark due to crash damage repair and corrosion Laughing and quite possible the intake cam has jumped a tooth, they do not appear to line up perfectly like the manual states.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 20:08 - 23 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

They never match perfectly because the chain stretches. That's why theres a chain tensioner. Just find the best fit.
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Hong Kong Phooey
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PostPosted: 21:39 - 23 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

kramdra wrote:
To make this more interesting, my clutch casing no longer has the index mark due to crash damage repair and corrosion Laughing and quite possible the intake cam has jumped a tooth, they do not appear to line up perfectly like the manual states.


The timing marks are under the timing cover on the stator case, there's a notch that the T mark aligns with, then 180 degrees opposite there's a punch mark for the other cam. IN and EX are outside aligned with the top of the head for the T. Then the punch mark lines up with the same but IN and EX are facing each other.

The tensioner will change any the timing marks you need to pay attention about that procedure.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 07:50 - 24 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you sure you've done shims before? Theres no shame in not having done them but the advice will be more in depth.
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 13:20 - 24 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:
Are you sure you've done shims before? Theres no shame in not having done them but the advice will be more in depth.


The cars I had apart were hydrualic lifters. Even so it seems simple enough from the workshop guide and videos I have seen. Measuring is a pain, the replacement should be easy.

Intake spec is 0.17-0.23mm.
First shim appears in spec 0.22mm, the next 3 appear tight 0.16mm just outside. Got pissed off as my hands are too big for this sort of work. I will have another go later.

The cam chain appears it may be several teeth out on the intake cam. Workshop guide does not give any spec or measure for allowable chain stretch, where can I find this?
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 17:31 - 24 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

kramdra wrote:
The cars I had apart were hydrualic lifters. Even so it seems simple enough from the workshop guide and videos I have seen. Measuring is a pain, the replacement should be easy.


The only hydraulic lifters I've touched were 20+ years ago on the Toyota Hi Lux and iirc they were self adjusting, why didn't you just say you'd never done shims?

kramdra wrote:
Intake spec is 0.17-0.23mm.
First shim appears in spec 0.22mm, the next 3 appear tight 0.16mm just outside. Got pissed off as my hands are too big for this sort of work. I will have another go later.


There should be loads of room on an inline four 600 so should be easy unless you are using short feeler gauges. Use the ones that are extra long, they make things easier as you just curve them back on themselves to do the inlets.

kramdra wrote:
The cam chain appears it may be several teeth out on the intake cam. Workshop guide does not give any spec or measure for allowable chain stretch, where can I find this?


Several teeth out it probably wouldn't run. Rotate the engine to the point where the crankshaft is in position to set up the cam timing and see how displaced the cam sprockets are from where they should be. Also count the pins between cam marks and compare to the manual.
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 18:35 - 24 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

96 fiesta 1.6 and 92 saab 9000. My first two cars Laughing

So far going slow but good, they seem within spec. Found its worth cleaning and measuring each pairing of feeler blades and trusting the mic rather than the stamped values. A decent quality set of indiviual blades 0.10-0.40 would be ideal for next time. Im starting with the smallest spec blade, recording in roman numerals with each pairing for each set of valves until the last no longer fits.

I think the intake cam is two teeth out. That would explain why it was running perfectly, one tooth jumped running badly, another tooth jumped and not running at all since. Here is a pic with engine on the T mark and 360 degrees (measuring 2 & 4 intake)

https://i.postimg.cc/90CrBf2z/IMG-20200524-182726.jpg

I will repeat the measure after with the line flush as the guide suggests to see the difference.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 18:44 - 24 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Which one of those cams is the inlet?
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 18:51 - 24 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://i.postimg.cc/B6pPW8qr/IMG-20200522-190333.jpg

Did you rip this off or did you find it this way?
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 19:40 - 24 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Inlets on the left. Exhause always lines up perfectly flush with the crank mark.

sickpup wrote:
https://i.postimg.cc/B6pPW8qr/IMG-20200522-190333.jpg

Did you rip this off or did you find it this way?


It fell out when I removed the rocker cover. There is no sign of the plastic bit that should be attached. I conclude it might have flexed until fatigued and then been retained by the shape of the rocker cover. The break area is well worn where it has been rattling around. I am unsure if this was already broken or broken by the dealer and placed back in. The bike came back very noisey and has not got worse.

It will be an easy part to make question is which plastic, nylon or delrin? Ive got both. Im not paying 50 quid for one Laughing


All of the shims are within spec tho a few are close to limit. I will recheck all to be sure. Ive done it with the manual stated marks, but the cams are in inconsistent positions. I would assume best if it were measured with the lobe pointing straight up? Or does it not matter provided it is off the lobe?


https://i.postimg.cc/Y9yVwd2H/IMG-20200524-201113.jpg

Also without the tensioner cam chain is trying to jump just turning slow by hand. So new chains are cheap enough. What tools do I need to fit a rivit or is it best done endless? It does look like there is space. Id prefer not to disturb the possibly cracked cam bearing cap. Maybe I should reset the cam positions on this chain and see if it runs before going any further?
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 20:44 - 24 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

That inlet is at least a tooth out of alignment.

I really cant see that happening on a running engine unless you e removed some tensioning gear that altered the alignment above the sprocket.

I'm inclined to think that bent bit of toot was put in by the last person who decided that 50 quid was too much and as a result your chain has jumped a tooth. I suggest that you learn from that.
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 21:49 - 24 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

The last person was the main dealer for which I paid £1000 for their services -and recived the bike back with loose brake calliper bolts and exhaust nuts. They had head off to fix exhaust threads and it took them 3 or 4 months.

The tensioner on these is known to be shit. When I removed the tension unwinder, it did not spring back out as it should. Many people fit manual CCT's for that reason. I think I will too.

As I was rechecking the inlet, the inlet accidently jumped a tooth. I decided to advance it a second tooth, to where I think it should be, but have not rotated engine since. I then removed the tension unwinder and pushed the guide back into the tensioned position. The cam moved backwards about half a tooth, which I guess is the amount of stretch in the chain. So now it is half a cam tooth from being flush.

These are my results, which means 3 shims have tightened up slightly under the limit and 5 more are right on the limit.

https://i.postimg.cc/g01x69xF/IMG-20200524-213918.jpg


Last edited by kramdra on 21:56 - 24 May 2020; edited 1 time in total
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 21:50 - 24 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

So a failed guide and an inlet a couple of teeth out suggests to me a failed tensioner which you should have heard. That isnt meant bitchily, just a simple it should have been caught before it became that bad.
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 22:04 - 24 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:
So a failed guide and an inlet a couple of teeth out suggests to me a failed tensioner which you should have heard. That isnt meant bitchily, just a simple it should have been caught before it became that bad.


I agree but it has been noisey since the dealer had it. I did replace the tensioner just in case no real difference. They sold me the "two blue spot" version which was redesigned, 75 quid or so. I was told this one should last the life of the bike. Since the I ride with music and learnt to ignore it Laughing

So with two teeth out is there any chance I have bent anything?
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 22:22 - 24 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Possibly some bent inlets, maybe maybe not.

Did you take the rocker cover off when you replaced the tensioner?
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Hong Kong Phooey
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PostPosted: 22:27 - 24 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd buy the chain guide, it's machined to the correct thickness.
Tensioners are as well known as regrecs on these.

Confirm TDC with a pencil or something in cylinder 1 then take it from there.
At that point the timing marks can be rotated as needed with the tensioner removed. Don't be surprised if it goes 1 tooth out when the tensioner goes back in, at that point mark it off in the chain with permanent marker.

Then remove the tensioner and adjust the timing chain position if needed.

Only when this is all correct you can then check the clearances.

When you get it all back together, keep a note of what shims go where, so future you knows what shims to order next time without having to take it all apart again.
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 10:37 - 25 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:
Possibly some bent inlets, maybe maybe not.

Did you take the rocker cover off when you replaced the tensioner?


I did not as its not listed in the book, I have never removed it before.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 12:26 - 25 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

kramdra wrote:
I did not as its not listed in the book, I have never removed it before.


What book?

Well cam timing can slip when changing the tensioner so it's good practice to check it.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 13:12 - 25 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is the cbr engine 'interference ' or 'safe'?

My experience of highly stressed sports bike engines are that they are interference.
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 13:34 - 25 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:
kramdra wrote:
I did not as its not listed in the book, I have never removed it before.


What book?

Well cam timing can slip when changing the tensioner so it's good practice to check it.


I will remember that for future, thanks.

The book is the official Honda? workshop manual.
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1215226/Honda-Cbr600f4i-2001.html#manual

I have realised that being just the intake, and being 2 teeth delayed is perfectly safe, no chance of collision. Problems would happen if the intake cam was early or the exhaust late. It is an interference engine. I know of people that have bent valves.
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