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Yamaha FZ6 S2 charging issue - battery, rectifier or stator?

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Arfa__
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PostPosted: 13:59 - 21 Mar 2020    Post subject: Yamaha FZ6 S2 charging issue - battery, rectifier or stator? Reply with quote

Got a 2007 FZ6 S2 which broken down a few days ago. Started on button in morning to go to work, started on button leaving work in evening. But half way home (~6 miles), engine management light came on, pulled over, dash died. Wouldn't start, flagged up a error code 46 - 'faulty chargin system'.

Since, I've charged battery and bike started fine, so now I'm trying to diagnose the faulty part(s).

After full charge, battery shows 13.1V. Idling: 12.2V. At 5k, 12.1V.
- According to Haynes, regulated voltage output should be 14.1-14.8V.
Half hour later, battery still started bike. But 3 days later, it was flat - reading 6-7V.
Battery is a good Yuasa, fitted Nov 2018 (so says fill sticker on it).

I checked current leakage, disconneting neg terminal and measuring current between it and battery: zero.
- So I don't believe there's a short or current drain.

I checked regulator, again only getting 12.1V out of it at 5k.
I checked reverse / forward bias on rectifier: all three diodes in each direction check out fine.

I checked stator output.
22V AC at idle, 70V at 5k output.
But resistance across the coils is a bit high: 0.7 ohms.
All three coils are consistent.
- According to Haynes, alternator stator coil resistance should be 0.22-0.34 ohms @ 20C


So now I'm still not totally sure what's knackered.
The battery going flat in space of 3 days implies a duff battery.
Not getting 14+ volts from rectifier indicates something dodgy there.
The high resistance on the stator implies it could be on way out, even if output voltage is high.

Any ideas on narrowing down things more? What parts would you stick your money on?
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Last edited by Arfa__ on 14:43 - 21 Mar 2020; edited 1 time in total
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mentalboy
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PostPosted: 14:04 - 21 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

The battery is fooked...BUT it sounds like it was the regulator that killed it... AND the stator's probably fubar'd too.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 14:26 - 21 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

No voltage from the rectifier is most likely the stator.

Unplug the stator, start it up and check across each pair of the three wires with you multimeter set to ac and range suitable for 30v.
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Arfa__
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PostPosted: 14:41 - 21 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
No voltage from the rectifier is most likely the stator.

Unplug the stator, start it up and check across each pair of the three wires with you multimeter set to ac and range suitable for 30v.


Did that, see above. 20-21V at idle. 69-70V AC at 5k revs. All three are consistent. So, def voltage coming out of stator.
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Arfa__
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PostPosted: 14:45 - 21 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

mentalboy wrote:
The battery is fooked...BUT it sounds like it was the regulator that killed it... AND the stator's probably fubar'd too.


That was my dread...

Battery was new Nov 2018. Yuasa one too. But it looks like it may have very slight bulge at the sides... Which would back up your theory the rectifier has killed it. Sad

Currently thinking, best to get a new rectifier and battery now, then consider stator later. Good plan?
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Hong Kong Phooey
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PostPosted: 14:52 - 21 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Arfa__ wrote:
mentalboy wrote:
The battery is fooked...BUT it sounds like it was the regulator that killed it... AND the stator's probably fubar'd too.


That was my dread...

Battery was new Nov 2018. Yuasa one too. But it looks like it may have very slight bulge at the sides... Which would back up your theory the rectifier has killed it. Sad

Currently thinking, best to get a new rectifier and battery now, then consider stator later. Good plan?


Yes, then check voltage across terminals at 5k again, should be good. If not then you'll need to do the stator. Can you get used parts?

Duff stator will take out regrec and battery again over time.
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Arfa__
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PostPosted: 15:05 - 21 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hong Kong Phooey wrote:

Duff stator will take out regrec and battery again over time.


Ah, good to know. Anything else I can do to confirm if stator is shot?

I was initially put off doing state initially as the Haynes books implies fitting is a bit tricky, but now I read it again, I think its just the removal of the rotor that's hassle. Am I right in saying it's just a simple job of removing cover, swap new one in, replace gasket and all is good? Canna find any good youtube vids for the fz6.

Maybe I should just replace all three together to play it safe. Will work out cheaper in the long run if leaving duff parts will trash stuff I buy in...
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 15:13 - 21 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

70 v ac from the stator is incredibly high. I'd expect no more than about 30v.
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Arfa__
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PostPosted: 15:27 - 21 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, I'm getting more and more convinced to just replace all three together, stator, reg and battery and hopefully resolve all charging issues in one go.

Genuine new parts are silly money - £330 for stator, £220 for rectifier!

So, looking at aftermarket stuff on Wemoto, M&P and ebay. Are Touramax or Electrosport brands alright? Any I should avoid?

M&P have Electrosport branded stator and reg for £97 and £67 quid.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 15:33 - 21 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ignore me, 70v @5k is fine.
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Arfa__
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PostPosted: 15:39 - 21 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Ignore me, 70v @5k is fine.


No worries. Nonetheless, the resistance I measured across the stator coils is definitely higher than acceptable spec. 0.7 ohm vs 0.22-0.34 acceptable range. So, it is still somewhat suspect.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 15:43 - 21 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Arfa__ wrote:
Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Ignore me, 70v @5k is fine.


No worries. Nonetheless, the resistance I measured across the stator coils is definitely higher than acceptable spec. 0.7 ohm vs 0.22-0.34 acceptable range. So, it is still somewhat suspect.


Usually the haynes manual will tell you that you should be using a properly calibrated meter.

I've tried testing cdi units in the past that give totally different readings to the manual but actually work fine.
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Tankie
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PostPosted: 15:58 - 21 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Put the battery on charge , replace the reg/ rectifier, easy
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mentalboy
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PostPosted: 16:48 - 21 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Arfa__ wrote:
mentalboy wrote:
The battery is fooked...BUT it sounds like it was the regulator that killed it... AND the stator's probably fubar'd too.


That was my dread...

Battery was new Nov 2018. Yuasa one too. But it looks like it may have very slight bulge at the sides... Which would back up your theory the rectifier has killed it. Sad

Currently thinking, best to get a new rectifier and battery now, then consider stator later. Good plan?


Modern batteries are either good or shot, there is no longer a grey area where you can stick it on charge every night and stretch another six months out of it. Once it bulges you might as well say fuck it and buy a new one.
At the age your battery was then it was almost certainly killed by the reg/rec.

Thing is, as pointed out in an above post, if the stator is dodgy (which sounds very likely) and you've just treated the machine to a new reg/rec and battery it will fuck them up in no time. To be sure change out all three, or follow the advice in the previous post to confirm stator status and then you'll only have had to replace a reg/rec twice (and possibly been dumped at the local empty supermarket once or twice and needed a jump).
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Arfa__
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PostPosted: 16:52 - 21 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm going with you mentalboy, just ordered new stator, reg and battery. Sledge hammer approach, and avoid faffing about and needing to buy parts twice if the stator takes more stuff out.

Thanks everyone.
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mentalboy
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PostPosted: 17:00 - 21 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Arfa__ wrote:
I'm going with you mentalboy, just ordered new stator, reg and battery. Sledge hammer approach, and avoid faffing about and needing to buy parts twice if the stator takes more stuff out.

Thanks everyone.


Sorry.
You'll be regretting the use of 'sledge hammer approach' so early on in the proceedings, hopefully the old stator comes out with nothing worse than skinned knuckles and a throat hoarse from cursing. Good luck.
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Arfa__
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PostPosted: 15:30 - 25 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

So, aftermarket regulator and stator turned up today. Batterr on backorder (thanks for not teling me about that M&P...)

Just checked resistance on new stator, it also read 0.8 ohm across each coils. hmm. Then checked resistence of probes touching, read 0.4 ohms - ahh! Damned mulit-meter is reading high. Evil or Very Mad

So, that would imply the stock stator on my bike is reading 0.3 ohm per coil, which is within range. And with 70VAC at 5k revs, output seems acceptable. So, I may leave that on for now, and will try just new reg and battery initially. Just hoping I get new battery soon with all the current lockdown in place...
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 16:04 - 25 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's what I'd do.

New reg/rec and battery, multi meter at the ready, fire it up and check voltages.

Don't quote me but I would have thought you have plenty of time to check the charging circuit without killing anything and hopefully all will be fine.
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