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Found a new oil leak. Totally random.

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TheMadWelshma...
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Joined: 15 Dec 2018
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PostPosted: 13:18 - 24 Mar 2020    Post subject: Found a new oil leak. Totally random. Reply with quote
Got up this morning to go start some work on the bike. Get it ready for its first Mot in 3 years and seen this oil on the floor. Haven't got a bloody clue where it can be coming from. The bike hasn't been touched in at least 3 months. Can anyone help where I start looking.

It's an AJS Regal Raptor dd125e been chopped into a bobber
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 13:36 - 24 Mar 2020    Post subject: Re: Found a new oil leak. Totally random. Reply with quote
TheMadWelshman wrote:
Can anyone help where I start looking.

Well. For dribbles of oil. It must be coming from somewhere, after all.
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TheMadWelshma...
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PostPosted: 13:38 - 24 Mar 2020    Post subject: Re: Found a new oil leak. Totally random. Reply with quote
Riejufixing wrote:
TheMadWelshman wrote:
Can anyone help where I start looking.

Well. For dribbles of oil. It must be coming from somewhere, after all.



Thank you. I've just taken the casineb off now and it looks like it's coming through the bolt hole. Looking at it straight on. The bottom left one. Why would it be coming out of there?

Thanks
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 14:05 - 24 Mar 2020    Post subject: Re: Found a new oil leak. Totally random. Reply with quote
TheMadWelshman wrote:
I've just taken the casineb off now and it looks like it's coming through the bolt hole. Looking at it straight on. The bottom left one. Why would it be coming out of there?

Sorry, I'm struggling a bit with knowing what's what on this one. In the picture, it looks as if there's a bolt which has been taken out/isn't in the cover for some reason. That one?

Which casing have you got off? Have you a pic of where casing/hole where the leak is coming from?

I'd guess you have a leaky gasket. It could be torn/cracked/damaged or the surfaces it's held between could be damaged.
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TheMadWelshma...
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PostPosted: 14:09 - 24 Mar 2020    Post subject: Re: Found a new oil leak. Totally random. Reply with quote
Riejufixing wrote:
TheMadWelshman wrote:
I've just taken the casineb off now and it looks like it's coming through the bolt hole. Looking at it straight on. The bottom left one. Why would it be coming out of there?

Sorry, I'm struggling a bit with knowing what's what on this one. In the picture, it looks as if there's a bolt which has been taken out/isn't in the cover for some reason. That one?

Which casing have you got off? Have you a pic of where casing/hole where the leak is coming from?

I'd guess you have a leaky gasket. It could be torn/cracked/damaged or the surfaces it's held between could be damaged.



I have taken some newer pics just trying to compress them so I can upload them. Thanks
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TheMadWelshma...
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PostPosted: 14:13 - 24 Mar 2020    Post subject: Update Reply with quote
Photos

It's the bottom left one I think it's coming out from. And yes I'm thinking gasket maybe. Just can't understand why it would just go random like that without being used or touched. 🤔🤔
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 14:24 - 24 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote
Well, I'd suggest the oil is leaking out of the notch in the bottom of the crankcase mating surface.

Which begs the question, should there even be oil in here? Because that notch looks like it's been machined in there which would mean that compartment is not supposed to be oil filled. If it's supposed to be a dry alternator (anyone know?), engine oil is finding its way into there from somewhere.

There also appear to be a couple of chunks of loose metal casting and some alloy shavings lying about in there, which is not a good thing.

I suspect if you find where that metal has come from, the mystery will be revealed.

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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Bhud
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PostPosted: 14:48 - 24 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote
Was it crashed at some point, after which the alternator cover was replaced?
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 14:51 - 24 Mar 2020    Post subject: Re: Update Reply with quote
TheMadWelshman wrote:
Photos

It's the bottom left one I think it's coming out from. And yes I'm thinking gasket maybe. Just can't understand why it would just go random like that without being used or touched. 🤔🤔

There seem to be two pics the same (first and last) showing the casing with generator stator in place. I don't like the bits that stinkwheel has mentioned.

Also, the gasket shown in pic 2 is in poor condition, and if it's stuck in place, why is a bolt hole obstructed? Is the oil coming from the bolt hole to the left of the engine number in pic 2?

Is this the liquid cooled engine, i.e. has it a radiator? If so, please look in the oil filler cap/dipstick & tell me the oil is not that mayonnaise sauce colour.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 14:54 - 24 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote
Try getting hold of the alternator rotor (the big circular metal thing in your second picture) and see if you can move it up and down or side to side. If there is any appreciable play there, chances are the main bearings are shot.
____________________
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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TheMadWelshma...
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PostPosted: 15:34 - 24 Mar 2020    Post subject: Big thanks Reply with quote
Thank you everyone for your replies so far.

There is no movement in the shaft so assume that's OK.

It is the air cooled version and sad to say the bike is stored outdoors as I have nowhere else to put her so I think the water has just got in there and mixed with the oil.

The shavings etc that's mentioned. I bloody panicked when I seen them to be fair. But further investigation showed that they were the bits of green plastic thats on the generator? If I'm right. And a slither of a gasket from somewhere.

And yes I did notice that the gasket does look shot. It's the first time I've been in here since I bought the bike so whoever did it before is pretty obvious ballsed it up so I've managed to find one online but out of stock at the moment so I'll order ASAP.

But would oil come through that bottom bolt hole normally or is it a case of the bolt and gasket helps to keep it sealed as looking at it all I would agree it should be all dry inside there.

I've stood the bike up for now so leaning the other way to reduce the drip until I can get this gasket sorted out.

SO I suppose I'm bloody stuck and lost now as to what else to do.... 🤪

Oh while I remember. When putting the cover back on I noticed that the 2 bolts on the upper left side the thread has gone. The bolts look OK so assume it's the body thread that's gone.

Is it safe to retap this type of metal? It's not to soft is it?

Thanks

Last edited by TheMadWelshman on 15:44 - 24 Mar 2020; edited 2 times in total
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TheMadWelshma...
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PostPosted: 15:42 - 24 Mar 2020    Post subject: Re: Update Reply with quote
Riejufixing wrote:
TheMadWelshman wrote:
Photos

It's the bottom left one I think it's coming out from. And yes I'm thinking gasket maybe. Just can't understand why it would just go random like that without being used or touched. 🤔🤔

There seem to be two pics the same (first and last) showing the casing with generator stator in place. I don't like the bits that stinkwheel has mentioned.

Also, the gasket shown in pic 2 is in poor condition, and if it's stuck in place, why is a bolt hole obstructed? Is the oil coming from the bolt hole to the left of the engine number in pic 2?

Is this the liquid cooled engine, i.e. has it a radiator? If so, please look in the oil filler cap/dipstick & tell me the oil is not that mayonnaise sauce colour.
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TheMadWelshma...
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PostPosted: 15:49 - 24 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote
Bhud wrote:
Was it crashed at some point, after which the alternator cover was replaced?


I honestly couldn't tell you mate. I bought it as an unfinished project but I've been struggling to get a logbook for it for over 2 years because of the State in the vin plate so I couldn't get the correct details off it. And not being able to find out the previous owners address because I didn't get a logbook at the time the DVLA wouldn't give me one. But after all this I've now gladly got one so want to get it on the road this year.
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 16:01 - 24 Mar 2020    Post subject: Re: Big thanks Reply with quote
TheMadWelshman wrote:
But would oil come through that bottom bolt hole normally or is it a case of the bolt and gasket helps to keep it sealed as looking at it all I would agree it should be all dry inside there.

I've stood the bike up for now so leaning the other way to reduce the drip until I can get this gasket sorted out.

...

Oh while I remember. When putting the cover back on I noticed that the 2 bolts on the upper left side the thread has gone. The bolts look OK so assume it's the body thread that's gone.

Is it safe to retap this type of metal? It's not to soft is it?

I would not expect oil to come from the bolt hole. Perhaps someone's screwed a long bolt in there and the end has pushed through the inside of the alloy. Who knows. There's not much oil there though.

Re the gasket, you could cut one yourself. Ideally use some cardboard with a high clay content, perhaps the thick cover of a glossy magazine, although as there's not supposed to be oil in there, the traditional "cornflake box" would do. You could use instant gasket (oil the face that you don't put the instant gasket on).

You can fix the threads. If you decide to, you want an M6 (I guess) helicoil kit. How many bolts hold the casing on, and are you sure there are only two stripped threads?
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TheMadWelshma...
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PostPosted: 16:22 - 24 Mar 2020    Post subject: Re: Big thanks Reply with quote
Riejufixing wrote:
TheMadWelshman wrote:
But would oil come through that bottom bolt hole normally or is it a case of the bolt and gasket helps to keep it sealed as looking at it all I would agree it should be all dry inside there.

I've stood the bike up for now so leaning the other way to reduce the drip until I can get this gasket sorted out.

...

Oh while I remember. When putting the cover back on I noticed that the 2 bolts on the upper left side the thread has gone. The bolts look OK so assume it's the body thread that's gone.

Is it safe to retap this type of metal? It's not to soft is it?

I would not expect oil to come from the bolt hole. Perhaps someone's screwed a long bolt in there and the end has pushed through the inside of the alloy. Who knows. There's not much oil there though.

Re the gasket, you could cut one yourself. Ideally use some cardboard with a high clay content, perhaps the thick cover of a glossy magazine, although as there's not supposed to be oil in there, the traditional "cornflake box" would do. You could use instant gasket (oil the face that you don't put the instant gasket on).

You can fix the threads. If you decide to, you want an M6 (I guess) helicoil kit. How many bolts hold the casing on, and are you sure there are only two stripped threads?




Thank you very much for your reply again. And yes that may well of happened with the long bolt. Looking at the state of how the gasket was put on in the first place. I'm still looking around for a gasket elsewhere. I have found one and in stock but waiting on reply as to whether they're open under the circumstances. So fingers crossed there.

And thank you for the advice on the helicoil kits. I did think of them but couldn't remember the name or what size I would nedd. And yes definitely only the top two. I've tightened all the others up. Thanks again. I'll look online now for the kits. Cheers
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 16:50 - 24 Mar 2020    Post subject: Re: Big thanks Reply with quote
TheMadWelshman wrote:
I'll look online now for the kits

Probably £10+. You need to be able to accurately drill a hole in line with the original bolt, and feed the tap in square too. Other than that, it's a doddle.

Edit: Make sure it really is an M6 kit you want. I would not think it even might be M5 or M8, but it's as well to be sure.

Don't drill through the bottom of the existing hole.... Wink
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 20:38 - 24 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote
As the drive chain runs behind the rotor, Im quite sure this casing is not supposed to be filled with oil. The oil in there may have came from chain lube, and has since emulsified nicely.
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 23:27 - 24 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote
kramdra wrote:
As the drive chain runs behind the rotor, Im quite sure this casing is not supposed to be filled with oil. The oil in there may have came from chain lube, and has since emulsified nicely.


What is that chain for, anyway? It's certainly not the secondary drive chain. It looks as if it's for the starter motor, positioned in roughly the same place as the magneto is on the old British ones!

I've just had a look in the User Manual. My goodness!

"New bike grinding in is 1000km
　Please use only≤3/4 thorrtle to avoid over grinding in
　Change gears oftenly to avoid contineously
running at one RPM.
　Control the engine RPM max.less than 6000r/min
　Max. speed shall less than 55km/h during 500km；
during 500-1000km max speed shall less than 70km/h.
　Keep fit after first grind.tighten all screwsws，
adjust all parts,replace all polluted oil, examine the
first 1000km to ensure the best status of your
motorcycles,extend the life time of your engine.
Engine grinding-in"

Ah so, Engrish, mulch?
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 00:50 - 25 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote
Its the starter chain
'Grinding in' sounds about right
I reckon he'll have to whip the rotor off and renew the crank shaft oil seal
at the main bearing as well as helicoil the dodgy holes.
Plus get/make a new cover gasket.
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TheMadWelshma...
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 15 Dec 2018
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PostPosted: 21:43 - 26 Mar 2020    Post subject: Re: Big thanks Reply with quote
Riejufixing wrote:
TheMadWelshman wrote:
I'll look online now for the kits

Probably £10+. You need to be able to accurately drill a hole in line with the original bolt, and feed the tap in square too. Other than that, it's a doddle.

Edit: Make sure it really is an M6 kit you want. I would not think it even might be M5 or M8, but it's as well to be sure.

Don't drill through the bottom of the existing hole.... Wink



Thank you. It is the M6 I need and I found a kit on ebay so ordering that when some money comes in. Self employed and coronavirus. Times are now hard.
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TheMadWelshma...
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 15 Dec 2018
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PostPosted: 21:45 - 26 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote
Riejufixing wrote:
kramdra wrote:
As the drive chain runs behind the rotor, Im quite sure this casing is not supposed to be filled with oil. The oil in there may have came from chain lube, and has since emulsified nicely.


What is that chain for, anyway? It's certainly not the secondary drive chain. It looks as if it's for the starter motor, positioned in roughly the same place as the magneto is on the old British ones!

I've just had a look in the User Manual. My goodness!

"New bike grinding in is 1000km
　Please use only≤3/4 thorrtle to avoid over grinding in
　Change gears oftenly to avoid contineously
running at one RPM.
　Control the engine RPM max.less than 6000r/min
　Max. speed shall less than 55km/h during 500km；
during 500-1000km max speed shall less than 70km/h.
　Keep fit after first grind.tighten all screwsws，
adjust all parts,replace all polluted oil, examine the
first 1000km to ensure the best status of your
motorcycles,extend the life time of your engine.
Engine grinding-in"

Ah so, Engrish, mulch?



It is the chain for the starter motor. And as its been standing so long I will be breaking it in just incase. Even though its only done 3000 miles on the clock on it but that's not the original clock. Actually thinking now I'll go online and check previous Mot should get a mileage there.
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TheMadWelshma...
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Joined: 15 Dec 2018
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PostPosted: 21:47 - 26 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote
WD Forte wrote:
Its the starter chain
'Grinding in' sounds about right
I reckon he'll have to whip the rotor off and renew the crank shaft oil seal
at the main bearing as well as helicoil the dodgy holes.
Plus get/make a new cover gasket.


Thanks for that advice. I may well change that seal the same time better safe than sorry. I've got the infamous Chinese motorbike Haynes Manual for it. So got some guidelines to go by.

And I've managed to find a gasket from an online shop thst sells AJS parts. So result. Just waiting to find out if they're open with this lock down.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 22:38 - 26 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote
Dont get stuck/ripped off on any 'genuine AJS' parts bollox
It's a Lifan 244FMI engine
Wemoto sell bits for it here

https://www.wemoto.com/bikes/chinese_motorcycle/engine_244fmi_125cc_twin/00-10

Crank Left Hand Oil Seal [AB1633] £3.96
Alternator Generator Cover Gasket [AB4913] £4.79

Cant see from your pics but some rotors have a 'holding on' bolt
in the middle which when removed allows a slightly bigger bolt in to draw the rotor off the tapered shaft.
After the rotor is off, the rest is pretty easy
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TheMadWelshma...
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 15 Dec 2018
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PostPosted: 22:58 - 26 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote
WD Forte wrote:
Dont get stuck/ripped off on any 'genuine AJS' parts bollox
It's a Lifan 244FMI engine
Wemoto sell bits for it here

https://www.wemoto.com/bikes/chinese_motorcycle/engine_244fmi_125cc_twin/00-10

Crank Left Hand Oil Seal [AB1633] £3.96
Alternator Generator Cover Gasket [AB4913] £4.79

Cant see from your pics but some rotors have a 'holding on' bolt
in the middle which when removed allows a slightly bigger bolt in to draw the rotor off the tapered shaft.


Bloody hell. Brilliant stuff. I used them a few years back for mini moto stuff for the 🧒 bike. Ahem. I never thought of them. Cheers. Mate.
After the rotor is off, the rest is pretty easy
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