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Mr Hammers |
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Mr Hammers World Chat Champion
Joined: 10 Jul 2008 Karma :
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Posted: 17:16 - 16 Apr 2020 Post subject: Bandit 12 Clutch issue |
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My lad's got himself a tidy little Bandit 12, but is having no luck sorting out a recurring problem with the clutch.
The problem is that he bleeds the clutch, everything is fine, biting point near the initial pull point, all works as it should. But after a short while, the biting point gets closer and closer to the bar, until eventually when in gear it starts creeping forward again.
He's changed the pipes/tubes/cables whatever they're called, he's changed the slave cylinder, and fitted a new master cylinder repair kit.
There are no leaks at the slave cylinder end, none on the cables...lines, that's what they're called, lines, but fluid is making its way out of the top of the master cylinder.
It's got to be something pretty simple, but we're both at a loss to what exactly is going on. My suggestion is that maybe the rubber membrane has a hole in it, and that he should try swapping the brake master cylinder one for it, and see if it still does it, which he's going to try next, or something to do with the little hole being too wide to fully seal..but i really don't know.
In the meantime, anyone have any insights? ____________________ A Guide To Powerbands |
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Nobby the Bastard |
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Nobby the Bastard Harley Gaydar
Joined: 16 Aug 2013 Karma :
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Posted: 17:20 - 16 Apr 2020 Post subject: Re: Bandit 12 Clutch issue |
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Mr Hammers wrote: | My lad's got himself a tidy little Bandit 12, but is having no luck sorting out a recurring problem with the clutch.
The problem is that he bleeds the clutch, everything is fine, biting point near the initial pull point, all works as it should. But after a short while, the biting point gets closer and closer to the bar, until eventually when in gear it starts creeping forward again.
He's changed the pipes/tubes/cables whatever they're called, he's changed the slave cylinder, and fitted a new master cylinder repair kit.
There are no leaks at the slave cylinder end, none on the cables...lines, that's what they're called, lines, but fluid is making its way out of the top of the master cylinder.
It's got to be something pretty simple, but we're both at a loss to what exactly is going on. My suggestion is that maybe the rubber membrane has a hole in it, and that he should try swapping the brake master cylinder one for it, and see if it still does it, which he's going to try next, or something to do with the little hole being too wide to fully seal..but i really don't know.
In the meantime, anyone have any insights? |
Leaking out of the master cylinder or ending up back in the master cylinder reservoir? ____________________ trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Sprint ST 1050 |
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Mr Hammers |
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Mr Hammers World Chat Champion
Joined: 10 Jul 2008 Karma :
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Posted: 17:39 - 16 Apr 2020 Post subject: |
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Leaking out of, in that the cap is on, as normal, and it's leaking out of there. I imagine something is happening that is causing the pressure to build up on the wrong side of the system, but why i don't know. ____________________ A Guide To Powerbands |
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Nobby the Bastard |
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Nobby the Bastard Harley Gaydar
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Mr Hammers |
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Mr Hammers World Chat Champion
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Posted: 18:45 - 16 Apr 2020 Post subject: |
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Nobby the Bastard |
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Nobby the Bastard Harley Gaydar
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Mr Hammers |
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Mr Hammers World Chat Champion
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Posted: 22:15 - 16 Apr 2020 Post subject: |
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Isn't it? It's doing my bloody head in. He hasn't had chance to change the membrane (or try the brake MC on it as i've suggested) yet, but he had a quick look at it today, and it's back to normal.
That's not to say it won't lose pressure and do the same thing after a few miles.
Would an oversize little hole somehow cause it? My old NSR had a blocked little hole, and the problem was the opposite, in that the pads just kept getting tighter on the disk. ____________________ A Guide To Powerbands |
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Nobby the Bastard |
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Nobby the Bastard Harley Gaydar
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Mr Hammers |
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Mr Hammers World Chat Champion
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Posted: 15:42 - 17 Apr 2020 Post subject: |
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Nobby the Bastard wrote: | I think you may have two issues.
1) master cylinder seals are knackered. This would explain why you have to keep pumping up the lever to action the clutch.
2)The top isnt sealed correctly, quite possibly the membrane has more than a hole in it. |
Giving it some thought, and a bit more research (like i now know that 'little hole' is called the 'compensation hole' and how it works) i've come to a similar conclusion. IMHO it's got to be the first seal.
What i think is happening is the clutch is pulled in, a small amount of fluid is getting past the first seal, into the spiral reservoir, and when the clutch is let out, that small amount stays in the spiral reservoir, or worse, forces the equivalent amount back into the main MC reservoir. Eventually more and more fluid is making it's way from the seal to the slave side, into the seal/main reservoir side.
It gets better overnight, as the pressure equalises between the sides, and fluid is drawn back into the seal/slave side of the system. The only difference in our thinking is that maybe the pressure from this is more than enough to break out of the rubber membrane..as it's not really designed to seal under that pressure, rather than there being just a hole. That said, the pressure may well have punctured the membrane as a result of the first seal not sealing 100%.
Would that make sense? ____________________ A Guide To Powerbands |
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jaffa90 |
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jaffa90 World Chat Champion
Joined: 06 Apr 2016 Karma :
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Posted: 17:30 - 17 Apr 2020 Post subject: |
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Mr Hammers wrote: | Nobby the Bastard wrote: | I think you may have two issues.
1) master cylinder seals are knackered. This would explain why you have to keep pumping up the lever to action the clutch.
2)The top isnt sealed correctly, quite possibly the membrane has more than a hole in it. |
Giving it some thought, and a bit more research (like i now know that 'little hole' is called the 'compensation hole' and how it works) i've come to a similar conclusion. IMHO it's got to be the first seal.
What i think is happening is the clutch is pulled in, a small amount of fluid is getting past the first seal, into the spiral reservoir, and when the clutch is let out, that small amount stays in the spiral reservoir, or worse, forces the equivalent amount back into the main MC reservoir. Eventually more and more fluid is making it's way from the seal to the slave side, into the seal/main reservoir side.
It gets better overnight, as the pressure equalises between the sides, and fluid is drawn back into the seal/slave side of the system. The only difference in our thinking is that maybe the pressure from this is more than enough to break out of the rubber membrane..as it's not really designed to seal under that pressure, rather than there being just a hole. That said, the pressure may well have punctured the membrane as a result of the first seal not sealing 100%.
Would that make sense? |
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Mr Hammers |
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Mr Hammers World Chat Champion
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Posted: 15:37 - 20 Apr 2020 Post subject: |
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Ok, so we're all agreed that that is probably what it is then. So, replacing the whole MC with another should cure the problem...shouldn't it?
Except, of course, it hasn't!
He's got himself another (used) clutch MC, fitted it, bled it, aaaand the same problem is still there.
I have NO idea what's going on. Maddening! ____________________ A Guide To Powerbands |
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Mr Hammers |
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Mr Hammers World Chat Champion
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Posted: 15:51 - 24 May 2020 Post subject: |
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Ok, an update on this as we're completely at a loss as to what the hell is going on.
So far, he's replaced: Master cylinder, brake fluid, banjo bolts, clutch line, slave cylinder, clutch springs, clutch plates and friction plates....
...and it's still doing it. There's nothing else to replace!?
In desperation, he took it to a mechanic who spent all night on it, and still couldn't fix it. Gets up to pressure after being bled (been bled over 20x now) and as always, 5-10 miles later the pressure has gone again.
Hoping a Bandit 12 owner who has had this issue and fixed it sees this and can advise what it is..?
If not, anyone else have any ideas? Because i'm completely out. ____________________ A Guide To Powerbands |
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jeffyjeff |
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jeffyjeff World Chat Champion
Joined: 02 May 2020 Karma :
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Posted: 17:13 - 24 May 2020 Post subject: |
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Perhaps one or more of the master cylinder piston seals are installed backwards ____________________ History shows again and again how nature points out the folly of men - BOC
Last edited by jeffyjeff on 17:38 - 24 May 2020; edited 1 time in total |
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Evil Hans |
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Evil Hans World Chat Champion
Joined: 08 Nov 2015 Karma :
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Posted: 17:30 - 24 May 2020 Post subject: |
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Get hold of a cable setup from a 600. Problem solved ____________________ Triumph Sprint ST 1050. And it's Red. |
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doggone |
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doggone World Chat Champion
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JackButler |
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JackButler Traffic Copper
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Mr Hammers |
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Mr Hammers World Chat Champion
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Posted: 18:17 - 24 May 2020 Post subject: |
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jeffyjeff wrote: | Perhaps one or more of the master cylinder piston seals are installed backwards |
No, he's double/triple/very often checked that.
Evil Hans wrote: | Get hold of a cable setup from a 600. Problem solved |
That might not be a bad idea, if it were relatively straightforward. Can't find much with a brief googling of t'internet, but someone must have done it at some point. But good suggestion, will look more into it.
doggone wrote: | Have a look where the clutch is activated under sprocket cover, there's a little push rod in there actually works it by pushing plates apart, and they are prone to getting gunked up with chain lube and grit. |
Doggone, that pushrod, along with everything else on the bastard thing, has been in and out more often than...er..something that goes in and out a lot. It's exactly the right size too, as in no wear on it either. ____________________ A Guide To Powerbands |
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Riejufixing |
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Riejufixing World Chat Champion
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Mr Hammers |
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Mr Hammers World Chat Champion
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Posted: 20:47 - 24 May 2020 Post subject: |
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Answers supplied by my lad;
Quote: | 1) It can be bled and is OK before being used on the road. |
Yes the system can be bled with no air bubbles coming out of the bleed nipple during bleeding and there’s good pressure on the lever.
Quote: | 2) While being used on the road, the bite point changes until the clutch won't properly disengage. |
Yes this happens after a few miles, when re-bled straight after the ride it will happen much quicker or one is unable to even get it to disengage again.
Quote: | 3) If left parked overnight, it's then back to normal before it's used again, then goes back to 2. |
Yes, after letting it sit overnight the pressure returns on the lever
Quote: | If so, does it need more fluid adding from time to time, or not? |
The fluid level seems to stay constant and haven’t had enough time riding it to tell if it drops after a while. No visible leaks around the slave or MC.
He also added;
the Garage Guy told me that he tried it yet again and looked at the travel of the slave cylinder piston after bleeding. Then let the bike warm up and actuated the lever a few times… The slave cylinder piston travel then decreased considerably. Obviously then not enough travel to disengage the clutch.
Not sure if that indicates something, and if it does, not sure what ____________________ A Guide To Powerbands |
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Riejufixing |
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Riejufixing World Chat Champion
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jeffyjeff |
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jeffyjeff World Chat Champion
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Pete. |
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Pete. Super Spammer
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Posted: 07:09 - 25 May 2020 Post subject: |
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I wonder if it's the pushrods welded together. If the rods are turning with the engine then it might be generating enough heat in the slave piston to boil the oil.
Either way I would take a brake hose clamp with me next time and when this happens clamp off the hose. That will tell you if the problem is at the bar end or the slave end. ____________________ a.k.a 'Geri'
132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good |
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carofmadness |
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carofmadness Derestricted Danger
Joined: 24 May 2020 Karma :
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Riejufixing |
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Riejufixing World Chat Champion
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Mr Hammers |
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Mr Hammers World Chat Champion
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Posted: 15:04 - 01 Jun 2020 Post subject: |
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jeffyjeff wrote: | A quick parts search looks like the piston and cup are a single piece. Either the cup is leaking, the piston is damaged, or the bore is cracked or scored. Fluid is leaking past the piston/cup assembly and you are not getting a consistent full stroke through to the slave cylinder. When the lever is released, fluid that leaked past the cup is being pumped back up to the reservoir. May be time to break down and purchase a new clutch master cylinder. Believe you said the first one you tried was used... that one may have been replaced for the same reason. |
Indeed, except he got yet another MC, and the same again. Worked fine initially, and then no pressure again.
Pete wrote: | I wonder if it's the pushrods welded together. If the rods are turning with the engine then it might be generating enough heat in the slave piston to boil the oil. |
No, the pushrod comes out easily, and since so does the second pushrod. Both in good condition, and the right spec.
Quote: | Either way I would take a brake hose clamp with me next time and when this happens clamp off the hose. That will tell you if the problem is at the bar end or the slave end. |
He connected the clutch line to the brake MC on my suggestion, and it seemed to work fine. But then again, iirc, it did the same again.
The latest update is this;
He discovered that 2 of the steel plates are thicker, and that one of the friction plates has a bigger ID than the others. He can't get it apart atm to check to see where the larger ID friction plate is, but the 2 thicker steel plates are definitely in the wrong position.
Not sure how the placement of the two thicker plates makes a difference (other than i guess it gets hotter in the middle of the plates) but if the friction plate isn't the first one on, it could be (and this is my theory at the moment) that it isn't going over the spring and spring plate that sits at the bottom of the basket.
I think maybe the friction plate is interfering with the spring and washer, and rather than be allowed to turn freely, or at least at the same speed as the steel plates, and is causing heat build up thereby causing the plates to get too hot and stop working properly.
Unfortunately, one screw holding the basket together is refusing to come out and so he can't check the location of the bigger ID friction plate, but i'll update when he can.
Here's the layout of the plates in a somewhat confusing page of the manual...
https://www.planetash.net/bcf/banditclutch/order.jpg
Here's the screw that's stopping him getting it all apart to check...
https://www.planetash.net/bcf/banditclutch/screw.jpg
And here's the basket with the two thicker plates at the end, rather than in the middle...
https://www.planetash.net/bcf/banditclutch/plates1.jpg
Our thinking is that after many tests everything on the hydraulic side seems to work as it should do, so now we're looking at the mechanical side that is causing the hydraulic side to have issues.
Incidentally, the original clutch had three clutch springs in (the diaphragm type) which apparently is a common hack to fix clutch slippage on the 1200.
Cheers for all the suggestions, much appreciated. ____________________ A Guide To Powerbands |
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 3 years, 322 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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