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Up n over Garage Doors

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BigTim
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 29 Sep 2017
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PostPosted: 00:34 - 08 May 2020    Post subject: Up n over Garage Doors Reply with quote

Garage doors, are they just supported at the top, or are the sides weight bearing also? either side of door there is a some vertical timbers with paneling. are these vertical timbers supposed to be load bearing and as such touch the floor?

the sliders for the door are attached to these vertical timbers. yet neither of the timbers either side of door touch the floor and as such are not particularly sturdy.

pics attached

door seems to make funny noise every so often, plenty of grease on runners etc
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Minty
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Joined: 23 Dec 2005
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PostPosted: 10:10 - 08 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mine are springs going down to the floor and screwed to the timber at the very bottom. Will go get a photo.
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Minty
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PostPosted: 10:13 - 08 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK my bike needs washing, lay off.

I have 2 10mm'ish bolts into the timber.
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 10:29 - 08 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm pretty sure with mine, although the runners are bolted to the wooden sides the structural support for the door comes from the lintel.

Obviously that is supported by the sides though and they will take the overall weight.
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Riejufixing
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Joined: 24 Jun 2018
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PostPosted: 10:33 - 08 May 2020    Post subject: Re: Up n over Garage Doors Reply with quote

BigTim wrote:
Garage doors, are they just supported at the top, or are the sides weight bearing also? either side of door there is a some vertical timbers with paneling. are these vertical timbers supposed to be load bearing and as such touch the floor?

the sliders for the door are attached to these vertical timbers. yet neither of the timbers either side of door touch the floor and as such are not particularly sturdy

That looks like a "canopy door", the weight is taken either by torsion springs (or wire rope attached to springs) at the top, or by springs inside the side frames. There may be a preload on the springs so consider them dangerous and take care if you take them apart. The door does not weigh much, or take much to open, so it does not need a whole lot of strength in the supports.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 10:50 - 08 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Up and over garage doors are the work of the devil. I hate the fucking things.

When it eventually tries to kill you by either dropping to the floor or decapitating you with a piece of wire rope on the end of a spring, replace it with almost any other form of door.

I put normal hinged doors on my garage but if I were to do it again, I'd get a roller shutter.

If I were you, I'd cut out the rotten section of wood and butt-splice (fancy term for glueing the ends together) some new stuff in there using polyurethane adhesive and a metal screw-plate. In an ideal world you'd scarf-joint it but that would be trickier with it in place.
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Nobby the Bastard
Harley Gaydar



Joined: 16 Aug 2013
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PostPosted: 11:10 - 08 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Depends on the door. Mine doesnt have wire rope and a couple of weights but 6 feckoff springs and a couple of solid metal bars.

And a couple of obligatory rectal use only sticks....

Obviously this is firmly affixed to the side at the bottom so rotten wood would be a no-no.
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Last edited by Nobby the Bastard on 11:12 - 08 May 2020; edited 1 time in total
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Ste
Not Work Safe



Joined: 01 Sep 2002
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PostPosted: 11:12 - 08 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
rectal use only sticks

Shocked
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iooi
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Joined: 14 Jan 2007
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PostPosted: 17:47 - 08 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

That looks the same design of garage as mine. Which was in the same state.
Put a couple of bricks at the bottom to help keep wood dry (off the damp ground), cut out the rotten stuff and replaced with well treated timber & used Upvc panels to replace the wooden slats at the front.
Also filled the void at at the back to help strengthen it. Although it is not load bearing. Your door does drop with the rotten wood.
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BigTim
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 29 Sep 2017
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PostPosted: 22:19 - 08 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

thank you all.

its seems ive got a canopy door then, never heard of them, but its got a spring the full width above the door,

i will splice in somehow new timber and then a brick at the bottom.

my job for tomorrow.

cheers Thumbs Up
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Riejufixing
World Chat Champion



Joined: 24 Jun 2018
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PostPosted: 22:36 - 08 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

BigTim wrote:
thank you all.

its seems ive got a canopy door then, never heard of them, but its got a spring the full width above the door,

i will splice in somehow new timber and then a brick at the bottom.

my job for tomorrow.

cheers Thumbs Up

The easiest fix would be to simply attach a new piece of timber to the side of the good part of the old piece, the end to rest on the concrete, saw off the rotten bit, and attach another new piece onto the piece you attached first, the same size as the rotten old part was, if you want. Use coach screws, drill clearance holes in the new bit you put on first, and a pilot hole 1/2 the diameter of the coach screw in the bits you're screwing into. Washers under the screw heads.
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MCN
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Joined: 22 Jul 2015
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PostPosted: 20:07 - 16 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Up and over garage doors are the work of the devil. I hate the fucking things.

When it eventually tries to kill you by either dropping to the floor or decapitating you with a piece of wire rope on the end of a spring, replace it with almost any other form of door.

I put normal hinged doors on my garage but if I were to do it again, I'd get a roller shutter.

If I were you, I'd cut out the rotten section of wood and butt-splice (fancy term for glueing the ends together) some new stuff in there using polyurethane adhesive and a metal screw-plate. In an ideal world you'd scarf-joint it but that would be trickier with it in place.


Last rollershutter I installed was not the traditional interlocking plates but one big corrugated sheet.
Still works like a rollershutter but I felt cheated. 🤣
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MCN
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Joined: 22 Jul 2015
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PostPosted: 20:09 - 16 May 2020    Post subject: Re: Up n over Garage Doors Reply with quote

Riejufixing wrote:
BigTim wrote:
Garage doors, are they just supported at the top, or are the sides weight bearing also? either side of door there is a some vertical timbers with paneling. are these vertical timbers supposed to be load bearing and as such touch the floor?

the sliders for the door are attached to these vertical timbers. yet neither of the timbers either side of door touch the floor and as such are not particularly sturdy

That looks like a "canopy door", the weight is taken either by torsion springs (or wire rope attached to springs) at the top, or by springs inside the side frames. There may be a preload on the springs so consider them dangerous and take care if you take them apart. The door does not weigh much, or take much to open, so it does not need a whole lot of strength in the supports.


It will have a 'counter-balance' spring to carry the weight of the door.
So it has to be pre-loaded.

Not terribly dangerous just dangerous in the wrong hands. 🤣
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