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Seized engine

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Ninjas4m83
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 11 May 2020
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PostPosted: 22:27 - 11 May 2020    Post subject: Seized engine Reply with quote

Has anyone tried this using diesel and mystery oil?
https://youtu.be/fxXEpRRj-fg

I've taken the heads off both sides and let it sit in Screwfix penetrating oil for days as well as doing the same with paraffin. I've also tried pushing it in neutral then popping it out into 2nd with no luck. I would have preferred to put it in 5th gear to do this but for some reason when I pull the clutch the bike stays in gear. I'm not sure why it's doing that? I adjusted the clutch cable to see if that makes a difference.

The engine wont turn during hand crank and it has a single click on the starter button (I've ordered a new relay). I'm planning to clean the kill switch and starter button contacts next. I've taken the starter motor off and cleaned up the contacts along with the earth cable. I'm using a brand new MotoBatt battery.

Before taking the engine apart to look at the starter clutch is there anything else I can try to free up this engine?
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 22:40 - 11 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you're in a "ah! f*ck it" mood you could undo the bolts holding down the barrel(s) [are they two separate barrels or is it all one piece?] so you can create a little bit of "slack" with the cranks. See if can turn the gearbox a little bit (push in gear, turn clutch basket by hand, that sort of thing.) If the gearbox isn't completely seized as well then stick some bits of wood between the barrel(s) and the bottom end then see if a light tap (rubber or wooden hammer preferable!) on the top of the pistons will free them.

WARNING! High likelihood of bolloxing up the top end so budget for new cranks, barrel(s) and pistons before attempting drastic manoeuvres. Also, you'll probably need to take the engine out depending on frame clearance.

If the gearbox is also seized it'd be easier to do a complete engine swap.

What bike BTW?
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martin734
Spanner Monkey



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PostPosted: 22:41 - 11 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it is seized then dismantling it is going to be needed anyway, but the method I have used to free seized pistons is to place a block of wood on a piston that is not at top or bottom dead centre and then hit it with a lump hammer until it starts to move, adding a few drops of 3in1 oil as it starts to move.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 22:50 - 11 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Easy-X wrote:


What bike BTW?


I'm guessing it's a 30yr old maggot.
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Riejufixing
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Joined: 24 Jun 2018
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PostPosted: 22:53 - 11 May 2020    Post subject: Re: Seized engine Reply with quote

Ninjas4m83 wrote:
Has anyone tried this using diesel and mystery oil?
https://youtu.be/fxXEpRRj-fg

The engine wont turn during hand crank

Before taking the engine apart to look at the starter clutch is there anything else I can try to free up this engine?

The oil/diesel is just ordinary homebrew stuff.

If it's seized. it's seized. First, how did it happen? What bike is it?
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Ninjas4m83
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PostPosted: 12:05 - 12 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry forgot to say it's a 1980 cx500. It's a free bike I picked up from a friend in the hope of rescuing it. Not much history about the engine other than he suspected a possible faulty starter clutch but I think the starter clutch is probably fine. Apparently a symptom of starter clutch is the starter spinning but not engaging. My starter just clicks once.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



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PostPosted: 12:46 - 12 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

So it won't turn with a spanner/socket on the end of the crank? Not at all? No movement either way?

Can you see any damage to the pistons/bore/valvegear?

Usually for a piston to be seized, there would either be a fuckton of corrosion in the bores or some sign of damage. That's where your diesel/oil/hammering blocks of wood would come in. That said, if it's seized a piston, you're looking at a full strip anyway. The barrels are integral on the cases on a CX as I recall so any bore work would involve crank removal and if the piston has seized, it'll need honing at a bare minimum.

I've never worked on one so not sure of stripdown procedure but if there is a seized piston, you might be able to unbolt the conrods and wiggle the crank out, then you could drive the piston down without risking bending a conrod. Bet it's tight as hell in there though.

If there's no visible corrosion/damage, it's unlikely to be a piston seizure so you then wonder if it's tangled a chamchain/bent a pushrod or somethings jammed in the primary. Only way to find that is to have a look. Be something pretty severe to lock it up totally solid.
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A100man
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PostPosted: 13:11 - 12 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I take it we're ignoring the YouTube clip on the basis that it's utter nonsense..
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 13:36 - 12 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

A100man wrote:
I take it we're ignoring the YouTube clip on the basis that it's utter nonsense..


Not totally rediculous, althought not for the reason he thinks.

It's probably filled the motor with the mixture up above the level of the crankcases looking at the level in that "exit" pipe. So if it's got a seized piston, his lubricant mixture is potentially sat well up into the inside of the bore and it has a chance of getting between the bore and the piston skirt.

Diesel and marvel mystery oil (most likely ATF in a fancy bottle) is a pretty effective penetrating fluid.

I'd have just stuck it down the plugholes though.

An old trick for a totally seized engine was to stick the whole thing in a bucket of diesel for a fortnight.

I don't think the OP has a piston seizure though, I suspect something's tangled up in the primary trnasmission/valvegear/starter area. If he's pulled the head, I'd have thought anything resulting in a piston seizure would be obvious.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 14:30 - 12 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ah well, disregard my advice - the CX engine is an entirely different beast to most bikes.

If the bike as a whole is in reasonable condition then it's well worth putting the effort in to get it going. Very interesting design, IMHO Thumbs Up
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



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PostPosted: 14:38 - 12 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

We really need WD forte in this thread, he knows his CXs.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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A100man
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PostPosted: 15:37 - 12 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
A100man wrote:
I take it we're ignoring the YouTube clip on the basis that it's utter nonsense..


Not totally rediculous, althought not for the reason he thinks...

..I'd have just stuck it down the plugholes though.



Quite.
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Tankie
Crazy Courier



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PostPosted: 16:50 - 12 May 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a CX that the engine seized on a run one day, the then owner asked me to pick it up, It was then dumped in the back of his garage till after his death.
His widow gave it to me so I then went through it trying to find why it committed suicide , first all the timing tensioner rails were shot, second, all the internal o rings from the oil pump right through the crankcase had all gone brittle and hard , the big ends had failed and the pistons seized in the bores.
My conclusion was that the engine had bleed to death because of all the failing o ring joints resulting in a loss of oil pressure.
The pistons had to be driven out with a block of wood and hammer, the engine was rebuilt and the bike was sold off in a running condition
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Old Thread Alert!

The last post was made 3 years, 343 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
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