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Robbd800
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PostPosted: 15:24 - 20 Jun 2020    Post subject: Lexmoto hawk Reply with quote

hello there

I'm after a bit of help from some experienced heads. I recently purchased a lexmoto hawk. I think it may be a dud but we shall see. Was running fine when I looked at it and did the basic checks but I'm far from an expert on these matters. I'm an electrician just getting into biking.

I was riding it down the road and it spluttered and cut out leading to an embarrassing walk back pushing the bike. I had no electrics at all. I've tested the battery 12.65v and the fuses have the same voltage going through them. What else can I check as ive tried to find a wiring diagram. The positive lead to the starter relay has 12v as well.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Fisty
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PostPosted: 15:33 - 20 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check the cut out switches on the side stand and clutch as a start.
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NJD
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PostPosted: 16:14 - 20 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

A very poorly uploaded wiring diagram:

https://www.chinesemotorcyclepartsonline.co.uk/microfiche/8049/1271

And everything else, should you need it:

https://www.chinesemotorcyclepartsonline.co.uk/microfiche/8049

..

Beyond the above disconnecting the sidestand switch all together may help, and perhaps replace the spark plug boot with an N.G.K one if possible (along with an N.G.K spark plug).

Beyond that I'd strip the bike and check the quality of all the important connections.

Not much actual use I appreciate, but two things that may make ownership less painful.
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Robbd800
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PostPosted: 17:13 - 20 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys will have a look. Appreciate that.

Edit: just as a thought would the side switch cut the electrics completely? Or the kill switch I would get the dash without both wouldnt I?
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 18:09 - 20 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

there so many chinese 125 around nowadays I had no idea what a
Lexmoto Hawk was
When asking for help on forums, adding info like year, mileage, history etc
and mebbe a pic or two can often help folk make better guesses

Anyroadup
The side stand switch won't stop all power, it usually drags a signal line to the ECU LOW or HIGH to stop fuel/sparks and/or inhibit the starter.
You'd still have panel lights and stuff

A complete electrical failure sounds like a connection problem if the Fuse is OK
The usual power route is Battery > main fuse > Ignition switch
(which in reality acts as a main power switch not just ignition switch)
then out from the Ign switch to sub fuses for lights and stuff

The ECU may not be fused and powered directly
The rest of the bike may have a few or many fuses but it probably has one for lights and one for other stuff
In my experience these bikes are built to a budget not a standard and the
quality of the electrical fittings is usually adquate but not top class

A close inspection of connections and switches and continuity testing with a meter will

A: help you find the fault
B: get you to know your bike well making future problems easier to trace and rectify

Under the plastics and cosmetic frippery they're all pretty simple machines
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Robbd800
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PostPosted: 18:28 - 20 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Apologies for the lack of information in terms of the bike. Its a 2018 model only done 120 miles according to the dash. I have managed to get the electrics back on now ( to be fair I did nothing to it this happens on machinery a lot being a cowboy electrician). However the bike doesn't even try and start.

I have an ignition relay which clicks. I have yet to test it to see if the relay is closing the contacts and passing voltage. I did notice also when I flicked the kill switch it energised the starter relay a few times but not every time so another component I will check tomorrow. The engine light flickers when the ignition is turned on and was wondering if all the electrical issues could be the ecu itself? Is there anyway to test it as such. I'm decent with a multimeter just useless with bikes and cars unfortunately.

Once again thanks for the advice and I will continue to fault find.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 19:02 - 20 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Forum help is alway best guess at best even with someone giving as much detailed info as they can
It's hard to remotely diagnose faults and with no wiring diagram to refer to which would show us how its configured,
A 2018 bike with120 miles showing symptoms you'd get on a 10+ year old bike that always lived outdoors makes me wonder whether its quality or owner inflicted damage.

I'd be looking at what as a sparky you might call earth bonding
and starting at the battery ground terminal, connection go round the wiring to check continuity on all ground wires.
Then I'd probably track power from battery through the switches.

I'd also open/check/clean crimp terminals and the soldering of the wires on the back of the ignition switch as I recently had to sort a simlar power loss problem.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 19:04 - 20 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bypass the solenoid with a screwdriver or another suitable poice of metal.

Does the engine turn over?


One wonders why a bike with 120 miles on the clock hasnt been returned to the dealership to fix....
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Robbd800
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PostPosted: 19:52 - 20 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I will try and bypass the solenoid tomorrow thanks for the tip. It hasn't been back on my watch as ive only had the bike a couple of days. If I can't do anything that's where it will have to go but I thought I'd try save myself some cash before I take it there.
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Ste
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PostPosted: 19:57 - 20 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robbd800 wrote:
Its a 2018 model

The warranty runs for 24 months.

But as the bike is nearly two years old, I'd expect the problem to be related to something the previous owner did to it.

How long have you owned it?
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Robbd800
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PostPosted: 20:01 - 20 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ste wrote:
Robbd800 wrote:
Its a 2018 model

The warranty runs for 24 months.

But as the bike is nearly two years old, I'd expect the problem to be related to something the previous owner did to it.

How long have you owned it?


Hi mate had it a few days. The warranty run out in January I believe as that's when it was registered jan 2018. Yeah I've got a feeling he knew about it ive spoken to him but he's adamant he had no issues. Maybe my own fault for not having the required knowledge to buy a 2nd hand bike off my own back.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 00:01 - 21 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just to hit a note of optimism if you've actually gone down the road on the thing then it'll just be a loose connection, fuse, relay or faulty switch. Annoying as it is to chase such things down it'll be a case of time > parts.

On my old Superlight I found the wire going to my side stand switch had chaffed a bit and the bike died mid-ride.
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Robbd800
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PostPosted: 06:04 - 21 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah im a bit more optimistic this morning i linked out the solenoid and it does turn over so I think like you say its just a fault finding mission. Appears the problem could well be the kill switch or the starter relay itself. I want to link the kill switch out just to rule it out. I will see if I can do it today.
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 07:36 - 21 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robbd800 wrote:
I want to link the side stand out just to rule it out. I will see if I can do it today.


Emphasis mine. Notorious for going on Chinese/Korean bikes, mine included.
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Robbd800
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PostPosted: 08:38 - 21 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

ThatDippyTwat wrote:
Robbd800 wrote:
I want to link the side stand out just to rule it out. I will see if I can do it today.


Emphasis mine. Notorious for going on Chinese/Korean bikes, mine included.


Thanks I will link that out as well. Gives me a few things to look at. Being a sparks I hate the plugs they use. Wagos are much better. Probably a bit bulky for a bike though unfortunately.
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 09:53 - 21 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robbd800 wrote:
Thanks I will link that out as well. Gives me a few things to look at. Being a sparks I hate the plugs they use. Wagos are much better. Probably a bit bulky for a bike though unfortunately.

My Keeway 125 uses a decent enough waterproof connector. Switch is siezed in the closed position and utterly useless, and currently resides in the tool compartment until I get it roadworthy and worth bothering with making up a proper jumper connector for it. You get used to making sure it's up, and also happened on my Hyosung and Daelim. Conversely the one on my VFR is, I'm fairly sure, what it came out of the factory with in 1996 and functions perfectly.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01JEMT4JM?tag=duc08-21&linkCode=osi&th=1&psc=1
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Robbd800
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PostPosted: 10:34 - 21 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I linked the side switch out and it didn't help unfortunately. I have 12v on the starter relay when I press the electric start. If I link that relay the bike makes the sound as if its going to start but doesn't. I might buy another relay I've found one for about 7 quid so not bank breaking.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 11:20 - 21 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

So the fact that the engines turning over but not startIng means the problem is one of the lockout switches and not the relay. If it were the relay it would have started when you bypassed it.
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Robbd800
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PostPosted: 11:25 - 21 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
So the fact that the engines turning over but not startIng means the problem is one of the lockout switches and not the relay. If it were the relay it would have started when you bypassed it.


On a machine if I link a safety relay out the machine starts. Wouldnt that be the same with a relay on a starter motor? Or is it because i am not getting a spark? Frustrating because machine electrics seem simple compared to this mass of poorly assembled wires.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 11:47 - 21 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's because the relay only turns the starter motor. The lockout is affecting the ecu as well.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 11:55 - 21 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Probably the same as any other Chinesium bike, I'd be looking at:

Side stand switch
Neutral indicator
Clutch switch
Kill switch
Start button
Associated wiring and connectors

ECU would be the last thing on the list as any of the above could have failed or warn out within 2 years in my experience.
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Robbd800
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PostPosted: 12:06 - 21 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks chaps really appreciate the help. Its doing my head in as a newbie I wanted to just get on with learning to ride. Ill spend a few more hours with my meter then i will have to get someone who actually knows what they are doing to look at it.
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Fisty
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PostPosted: 17:18 - 21 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Where are you based?
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 18:06 - 21 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wasnt suggesting the ecu was at fault, I was saying that whatever is stopping the starter from turning is also stopping the spark.
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Robbd800
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PostPosted: 18:39 - 22 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fisty wrote:
Where are you based?


Hi mate sorry for the delayed response I'm based in Cambridgeshire.
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