Plastics repairs?

[pepperami]

I’m in the process of buying a scrapper for parts for my current bike.
As I’m going to pull it to pieces, I thought I would try to rescue the plastics that have a few minor cracks in places.

I have searched ‘teh net’ and nothing particularly jumps out at me.
I haven’t got a plastic welder and taking parts to a specialist would not be a financial option.

So oh mighty BCF , I seek your wisdom.

Can anyone recommend a particular product they have used with success?
Any particular tips about how I would go about this?
What should I avoid?

Thank you
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I am the sum total of my own existence, what went before makes me who I am now!

[wr6133]

The powder filler (and liquid to mix it with) that women use for acrylic nails.

It does everything this claims at a fraction of the cost https://www.plastex.net/ (this stuff is just nail filler and liquid with a markup and a thing for moulding lugs).

I used it to fix an old ZZR fairing, remade lugs, stuck them in place. When I threw it down the road the repairs held and it was other bits broke.

[Robby]

Unibond plastic epoxy works well, I've used it for gluing lugs back and for filling cracks. Seems to remain flexible and not flake off like araldite.

Fibreglass kit from Halfords for major repairs.

Whatever you do, it will look like you filled in scratches unless you respray it.

[pepperami]

Interesting

A trip to a nail bar might be interesting
I would had never thought of that.
Halfruads fibreglass kit might be easy to get.

I was thinking of doing the repairs from inside the fairing.
Structural integrity is more important than how it looks at this time.
I can always attempt to make it better looking at a later date.
The cracks are only minor, so it’s more of a learning exercise.
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I am the sum total of my own existence, what went before makes me who I am now!

[Freddyfruitba...]

[TheIncredible...]

Hey Pepperami, if you have any pictures, please upload them and I'll do my best to advise.

I'm in the trade and may be able to help.
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Current Bike:-Suzuki GSXR 1000 - K3
Past Bikes:- ZX6-R, ZX7-R, RSV Mille x2 (1st Gen).

[Kris]

Rebuilt an ABS mudguard with gorilla glue

Just drill the ends of the cracks, wash it and ensure the joining faces are clean. Worked a dream. I left mine 48 hrs before using. Been fine for months now.
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[redeem ouzzer]

Don't use Polyester or Epoxy resin on injection moulded plastic parts. It tends to split along the crack in time then you can't use a proper solution like Plastex to fix it because it won't touch the remains of the resin. I've just done a spare top fairing for my GSXR400 and it had an old resin repair on a crack radiating from one headlight hole outwards that had opened back up and I couldn't get Plastex to touch it. Ended up using Zap thick superglue and sanding it back to shape when cured but it's still not as strong as a bonded joint. I used Plastex to reattach most of the tail unit lugs on my 1100 and completely remake a missing lug on my 400 fairing lower using the rubberised casting bar that it comes with. It's good shit. I've not looked into the nail bar stuff as a cheap alternative yet.
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Be a REAL MAN!

[yen_powell]

I found a video on youtube by Delboy with a lesson on plastic welding using a soldering iron and I gave it a go on my kitchen drainer with the window open and a fan blowing any fumes away from me. I was very impressed with the results on the part of my fairing that suffered a 80mph pigeon smash* on the motorway. But remember, I only care about the crack being repaired and being strong, not a glossy finish afterwards.

*Please note, I was the one doing 80mph, the lazy bastard pigeon was probably only doing 5mph across me as I passed through him.
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Blackmail is a nasty word........but not as nasty as phlegm!
XT1200Z and a DR350 in bits

[Riejufixing]

[pepperami]

What about this? https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/370357755531?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=370357755531&targetid=909953938039&device=t&mktype=pla&googleloc=1006826&poi=&campaignid=10199419399&mkgroupid=101401895505&rlsatarget=pla-909953938039&abcId=1145984&merchantid=7321774&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7-it87_86QIVhrHtCh1zGgKREAQYCCABEgINMPD_BwE
Any good?

I’m talking about small cracks around indicators and such like.
It would be more about stopping cracks spreading than holding two half’s together.
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I am the sum total of my own existence, what went before makes me who I am now!

[A100man]

[stinkwheel]

West systems g-flex thickened epoxy with one or two layers of Bias weave fibreglass over the back.

Flame ABS plastic first to make it key.

Don't forget to drill a stop hole at the end of the crack.

They glue smashed up kayaks back together with the stuff. Including ABS ones.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Riejufixing]

[pepperami]

Thanks everyone for your help
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I am the sum total of my own existence, what went before makes me who I am now!

[Riejufixing]

[pepperami]

[pepperami]

[Bru]

Definitely second vote for plumbers' solvent for ABS - like FloPlast - although it is difficult to find a tub which actually states 'for ABS', rather than just PVC. The stuff works very quickly, even on old cracks.

[Riejufixing]

[jeffyjeff]

On Hondas with ABS fairings I have had good success by sanding down the inside of the fairing with emery cloth, then applying ABS cement from the hardware store (plumber grade). The used emery cloth makes good backing material to strengthen the repair, then apply another layer of cement over that. You can fashion new tabs by layering emery cloth over ABS cement and then clamping in a vise. Add layers as needed for thickness/strength.
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History shows again and again how nature points out the folly of men - BOC