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125cc YBR 2015 - Problem Starting Bike

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Bikerdood
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PostPosted: 00:41 - 07 Jun 2020    Post subject: 125cc YBR 2015 - Problem Starting Bike Reply with quote

Hi I'd like to thank you in advance for any tips and advice,

I've got a 2015 Ybr 125cc

So I've got a bit of an issue with my ybr at the moment, I took a fall a few months ago and now I've built up the confidence to start riding and get her going again,

I put the key in this morning and the fuel injection could be heard working but when I went to press the electric start, I had no response not even a noise. Unfortunately I havent got kick start either, so I took the battery out gave it a charge but still to no avail (awaiting a multimeter to see of there is a problem with the battery).

I also notice the indicators were playing up, the right hand side seemed to blink on and off correctly however the left side stayed on. When I took the fall the front end took most of the damage, I'm just wondering were to start?

Were should I start to troubleshoot getting the electric start button to function again, also could the indicators have a fault in the relay, or could it all just be a battery issue?

Thank you again all advice is appreciated
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jeffyjeff
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PostPosted: 07:01 - 07 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Welcome, Bikerdood. Your YBR has a tip-over sensor under the seat. It's there to stop the engine and fuel pump when the bike is dropped. I would start troubleshooting there. Make sure it is not loose or installed improperly. The Haynes manual says voltage between the yellow/green terminal and black/blue terminal (with the sensor connected and ignition ON) should be 0.4-1.4V with the sensor upright, and 3.7-4.4V when the sensor is tilted 65 degrees.

Unfortunately, the YBR's are known for sketchy indicator wiring. A solid dash indicator can be a sign that one of your turn signal light bulbs burnt out or became disconnected in the spill. Make sure that both are working, and go from there.

To my knowledge, your bike has only 2 relays; a starter relay and a headlight relay. So your indicator problem cannot be relay related, but your starting issue might be. I would start at the tip-over sensor, however, since that is a part designed to stop the engine from running.
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jeffyjeff
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PostPosted: 21:54 - 07 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

jeffyjeff wrote:
To my knowledge, your bike has only 2 relays; a starter relay and a headlight relay. So your indicator problem cannot be relay related, but your starting issue might be.

EDIT: Today I was poking around my YBR and what do you know but I found another relay under the seat near the ECU. After a thorough check of the wiring diagram, I believe it to be a turn signal relay. Sorry if my statement above mislead anyone. Doh!
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Bikerdood
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PostPosted: 08:21 - 08 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thankyou and I appreciate your detailed reply Jeff! I had the bike apart last night, I never knew they had tip over sensors (learning something new everyday) so I checked for loose wires and damage, there didnt seem to be any however the multimeter wont be here for a couple days yet to know for sure, I did notice though when I turned the key the fuel injection pump is still priming and working, would a faulty tilt sensor still allow this to be happening? Or do you think I should start troubleshooting the electric start switch itself?

Ah well that some good news, my dash indicator is staying solid, I'm hoping that's a nice easy fix with a couple of bulbs!

Thankyou for the extra information on the turn signal relays, I shall be checking them all thoroughly, I'm still stumped with getting her started again but we will get there![/b]
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spottedtango
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PostPosted: 10:47 - 08 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I’d make sure you have a good battery before you try this (12.6v on the multimeter).

If the bikes still not turning over I’d bridge the starter relay with a piece of wire. This will send power directly to the starter.

If bike turns over then there’s a fault with the relay or power to the relay. Could be a tip over sensor or another fault.

If the bike doesn’t turn there’s a fault with the starter or starter wiring/Earth.

This is assuming the engine isn’t seized.
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jeffyjeff
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PostPosted: 13:36 - 08 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

spottedtango wrote:
If the bikes still not turning over I’d bridge the starter relay with a piece of wire. This will send power directly to the starter.

If you do this, best to use a stout piece of wire. A small gauge wire will get hot-fast!
Is the neutral light on when the key switch is turned on and transmission in neutral?
There are two blue/white wires going to the starter relay. These are for the coil circuit. One comes from the start switch, and should have 12V when the key is 'on' and the start switch is depressed. The other blue/white wire completes the coil circuit to earth through a diode and the neutral switch. Seems to me that the starter relay is the best place to begin fault diagnosis.
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Andy_Pagin
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PostPosted: 17:49 - 08 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Has it got an immobiliser? I had one (a Meta something-or-other) on a Fazer and that caused all kinds of peculiar starting problems when it's internal battery started dying.
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Bikerdood
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PostPosted: 21:08 - 17 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you for your responses, ok so I've bought a new battery and started troubleshooting using your advice, the tip over sensor showed up fine on the multimeter,

So next I went to the starter relay, took my piece of wire and made a bridge, and like music to my ears she started up Smile

Ok so now I'm looking at the wires going into the starter relay, but I could only see one blue and white wire going into it, I'm guessing this is the one I should be testing for 12v?

I checked the blue and white wire with the multimeter with the ignition on and transmission in neutral, I was only drawing 0.3v then when i pressed the starter button it read 0.0v

I feel like were getting close to the problem and once again your advice is kindly appreciated, were do you think I should go from here guys, am i testing the wrong blue and white wire, or is this were the fault rests do you think?
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jeffyjeff
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PostPosted: 21:28 - 17 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Look around in the vicinity of the wiring harness near the starter relay for another blue/white wire. The starter relay coil requires two wires to make a complete circuit in order to start your engine. One of the wires is apparently missing. The missing wire should show 12V when the start button is depressed and all other conditions are met (ignition switch on, transmission in neutral, kickstand up, etc.). It connects to the opposite side of the starter relay coil.
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Bikerdood
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PostPosted: 22:22 - 17 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi jeff your a star for your fast response!

The blue and white wire that I was testing for 12v, was in the connection block were the main fuse is, attaching to the starter relay, it also had 2 red wires going in aswell ( I've attached a picture just to make sure I'm testing the rite area)

It doesn't look like a wire has been pulled out from here, or am i looking in the wrong spot? Were would the other blue/white wire be connected carrying the 12v I'm abit stumped,
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jeffyjeff
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PostPosted: 12:50 - 20 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry for the delay. Unfortunately, I'm traveling right now and only have intermittent access to internet, and no access to my bike or manual.
You are definitely looking in the right location. You wires also appear to be connected properly. The first thing you need to establish is that the blue/white wire shows 12V when the starter button is depressed. You can't do that with the connector disconnected, though. Make a probe from a small paper clip and try to test the voltage from the back side where the wire goes into the connector. You should be able to sneak your probe between the wire and connector to make contact with the terminal (the part that connects with the spades on the relay). Key on, kickstand up, transmission in N. Depress the starter button and you should see 12 V. (Helps to have an assistant.)
If you get 12V, then the problem is likely in the wire straight across from the blue/white wire, or a bad relay. Take care. Good luck.
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