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Calipers and tyres?

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Ste
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PostPosted: 12:48 - 16 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

kramdra wrote:
Where can I buy decent mineral oil at a non extortionate price?

Baby oil is mineral oil.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=63VIuPiX3CA

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kramdra
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PostPosted: 14:35 - 16 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also looks like bicycle bleed nipples are just screw holes with an oring seal, there is no nipple that seals on a tapered seat? I am not quite sure how that works as some air will get in when swapping the nipple for the sealing screw.

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0269/4791/1754/files/mineral-oil-boiling-points.png?v=1571391068

Interesting.

To swap dot4 would likely need new seals and hose, or just strip and clean?

No I am not using baby oil, tho it would be easy to check its boiling temp..
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 19:27 - 16 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's a totally sealed system. You fit a funnel thing into the hole so you can brim it with oil, bleed all the air out then put the screw in. No reservoir as such.

I'm not sure if the seals will be an appropriate material for DOT4.

My AVID Juicy brakes use DOT4.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Ste
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PostPosted: 19:54 - 16 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

The seals in mineral oil systems will be unhappy if DOT fluid is put in the system.

For bleeding them you'll need either the Shimano bleed funnel or a syringe with the same fitting that Shimano levers use.

Air won't get in when you refit the screw to the caliper after removing the bleed syringe and hose.

There'll be appropriate bleed kits available if needed (like this https://www.totalbleedsolutions.co.uk/clarks-mountain-bikes one) and there'll be many guides on youtube showing how it's done.

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kramdra
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PostPosted: 21:03 - 16 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got this seemed light, narrow, with some padding.

https://i.postimg.cc/YC5vbLFM/IMG-20200716-201733.jpg

Even with it fully back, I feel like I want another 2 inches adjustment.

Jumping up a small kerb my chain jumped off the front sprocket and stopped the bike dead. Ive had simillar jumping down a kerb with chain jumping off the rear. What is the cause? Only small kerb, was going slow.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 00:18 - 17 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is the chain too long?
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 01:30 - 17 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Is the chain too long?


Looking at the bike photo it's a standard long armed derailleur. Chain doesn't look overly long but it's a bit hard to tell from the angle.

Best to check the bike over on the biggest cogs, front and back to get the length right and also take a look at the chain line from there and with the smallest cogs (i.e. lowest gear front, highest gear back) not that you'd probably use such a combination but just for worst case scenario.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 10:27 - 17 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also have a close look at the chainrings for hooking, it could be picking up on a hook when you back-pedal and lifting the chain off the teeth.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Ste
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PostPosted: 10:38 - 17 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the chain is jumping off then the first thing to check is that the H and L screws on both the front and rear derailleurs are set correctly.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 12:41 - 17 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ste wrote:
If the chain is jumping off then the first thing to check is that the H and L screws on both the front and rear derailleurs are set correctly.


Hahaha! Good shout, I adjusted the very same thing on my granddaughter's bike only this last week. I'd plumb forgot; this Covid business is a right mind-fuck. Then again I may have imbibed a large quantity of mind erasure fluid* in the intervening period Wasted

*Lager
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Ste
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PostPosted: 18:37 - 17 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't forget when setting you're the H and L screws, wind the barrel adjusters in completely then you can take up all that slack by tensioning the cable at the derailleur end.
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 20:40 - 17 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

While the front brake is good improvement, is it worth the 10-15 quid to upgrade disc from 160mm to 203mm? Floating for a few quid more.

Ste wrote:
If the chain is jumping off then the first thing to check is that the H and L screws on both the front and rear derailleurs are set correctly.


Thanks I will need to look this up later but probably right.

Did 25km on new seat. Arse is not sore but doing 60 miles will be a challenge. I do want to be doing 60 mile+ round trips soon.

Ste wrote:
Air won't get in when you refit the screw to the caliper after removing the bleed syringe and hose.


This it seems will work, but was unnessasary. I unloosened the brake hose, measured and cut, jammed the new compression nipple and screwed it back up with a gentle pull on lever. Feels identical to before, without a massive loop of hose. I am starting to like this mineral oil stuff.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 19:59 - 21 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

kramdra wrote:
While the front brake is good improvement, is it worth the 10-15 quid to upgrade disc from 160mm to 203mm? Floating for a few quid more.


Check the manual for the forks. A lot of forks have a rating for discs as they exert leverage and if an over sized disc is used can cause damage.

Without taking the piss too much have you rebuilt the forks yet? they probably needed it about 7 years ago regardless of whether the seals are blown.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 01:06 - 22 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd go with the same as a woman motorbike: slightly bigger up front Wink

180mm would probably not be too much of an upgrade (with regards to fork stress) and easy enough to do. Did me okay on my stupid >30mph eBike.
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 23:38 - 31 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

The seat is a massive improvement now that my fat arse is used to it. I did upgrade the discs and put sintered pads, much better.

The chain jumping has been a pain. Right when I need power, bang, no power. Decided to replace, picked up new chain and rear sprockets and idlers, Btwin branded from Decathlon. Looks like I need to order the front set, but new dont have much more meat on the teeth. What to get?
Rear sprockets only have minor wear but the old chain is missing 3 rollers, that was the cause.

https://i.postimg.cc/fWvGmxTW/IMG-20200731-171107.jpg


This any good?
https://www.decathlon.co.uk/triple-chainset-7-8-9s-mtb--id_8523921.html
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 16:21 - 04 Aug 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Could use some help chosing the front sprocket/crankset. I want durable, hardened steel teeth, not this shite..

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/MFYAAOSwE-Vef4Pj/s-l1600.jpg

Old one
https://i.postimg.cc/ZKq5dt9f/IMG-20200801-150128.jpg
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Ste
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PostPosted: 20:34 - 04 Aug 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

kramdra wrote:
I want durable, hardened steel teeth, not this shite..

How much are you spending?
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 00:05 - 05 Aug 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thirty pounds?
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Ste
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PostPosted: 00:27 - 05 Aug 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Marginally over budget but if spending about £30 on a chainset then I'd probably go for one of these (44 / 32 / 22 and 175mm). https://www.tredz.co.uk/.Shimano-FC-M371-Square-Taper-Chainset_63608.htm

What cassette and chain did you buy?
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 09:30 - 05 Aug 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is for 9 speed? I need 8.

I got a Decathlon Btwin rear and chain, but they didnt have cranksets.

I was looking at this
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shimano-Altus-Chainset-M311-MTB-Square-Taper-with-Chainguard/264737041269

I cant see any fronts that say hardened teeth. If they are not, quite expensive per mile.
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Ste
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PostPosted: 11:03 - 05 Aug 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

9 speed chainrings are completely fine with 8 speed chains.

I think the reason you can't find any that say hardened teeth is because they don't exist and that's because they're not necessary.

Depending on what length cranks you want and what size chainrings you want and that eBay listing for the FC-M311 only has one variant available, the rest are available from Tredz. https://www.tredz.co.uk/.Shimano-FC-M311-Altus-Square-Taper-Chainset_74973.htm

The FC-M371 will be slightly better quality than the FC-M311 however it's going to be the cheap Decathlon chain that wears first.
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 12:35 - 05 Aug 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I thought 9speed+ had tighter spacing, which will not line up with my 8 speed derailer and shifters?

I do want the same chain rings 28-38-48. A swap to 44 would have me spinning very fast, which I am not good at.

I would say it is nessasary, how long would you expect new chain and sprockets to last?
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Ste
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PostPosted: 12:44 - 05 Aug 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your eight speed rear derailleur doesn't come into it. Mr. Green

Go for 28-38-48 if you're happy with those on your old chainset. Smile

How long should the chain, cassette and chainring last? Ages and ages and ages and ages. It will be the chain that's the weak link, no pun intended, but that's only going to reduce the lifespan to ages and ages and ages. Wink
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 12:58 - 05 Aug 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

The front deraileur and shifters are expecting the sprockets in a certain place. If the set have a narrower spacing, it wont line up.

Ages and ages if I dont ride it? Ive done under 500 miles on this bike, it was used but dont think it had done much when I got it.
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Ste
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PostPosted: 13:02 - 05 Aug 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I do wonder how long rollers had been missing from your chain.

We were busy telling to set up the limit screws on the derailleurs, to check for worn teeth on the chainrings and things like that when it turns out that your chain was literally falling apart. Laughing

It's a good example of the importance of thoroughly checking your bike over every so often. Although missing chain rollers is the type of thing that should be noticed when oiling the chain. Laughing
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