Forks

[kramdra]

Stripping forks, Ive got both legs spinning the drain bolt/damper rods. I tried compressing the fork upside down without any luck. How to remove?

[Bhud]

Broomstick

[stinkwheel]

Burp gun is easiest. Most garages will have one that'll have them out in half a second but they may not have a long allen key to go on the end of it.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Kawasaki Jimbo]

If there's any tension left, i.e. it's not spinning completely free, you can simulate the wind gun by snatching at the Allen key rather than applying pressure like normal, if you see what I mean. A long Allen socket is best.

[kgm]

I had one that I struggled with for a couple of hours. Took it to my local garage and had them try the buzz gun (I took the long Allen socket with me). Off in second and they didn't charge anything.

[kramdra]

It is spinning very freely, so Im not convinced, but I will try it. May need the broom handle aswell. I do have an air impact, never needed to use it. I have a set of Cr-V allen keys with the angle chopped off.

[stinkwheel]

[Confusion]

[stinkwheel]

[kramdra]

https://i.postimg.cc/yNWF1RSB/IMG-20200607-195022.jpg

Not a chance, just spins very fast. The rebound adjuster rod prevents me putting anything down the middle. So I will try putting it back together and pressing it with the air gun.

I remember last time the bolt rounded off and the only ones I had/ordered were stainless. Now I have all the tools for drilling stainless if needed, if only I could get the bolt to stay put!

Edit - nope, compressing the fork does not change how fast it spins.

Any ideas? I think I may have to properly degrease the bolt, and temporarily epoxy it in place, such that it can be drilled out.

[stinkwheel]

I'm amazed the burp gun isn't shifting it with the fork assembled. Maybe try clamping it back in the yoke and compressing the fork with a ratchet strap between the calliper mount and bottom yoke.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[kramdra]

Im not convinced that would be any different. I wedged some 0.7mm copper strip around the bolt and superglued in place, drilled upto 9mm. Cant go any bigger without it spinning. I will rethink this, stronger glue or a better wedge could be a pain to remove once the damper is out.

[sickpup]

The knob on the bottom of the grip of the windy gun needs turning in, at the moment it looks like its on its lowest setting. Your air hose also has a small diameter so won't give full power, what is your compressor rated at?

You do have the direction on the windy gun set right?

Your bike is a 2002 model iirc which has preload and compression adjusters in the fork tops which I can't see in your picture. So just checking when you are trying to windy gun the damper bolt you do have the forks fully assembled with the fork tops in place and the forks compressed against the ground yes?

[sickpup]

[kramdra]

You think you can see the knob position? The numbers are on the knob face, anyway I had it on highest. You are right about the hose. On the low position it just stalls easily.
I had regulator set at 6 bar, the rating of the gun. In use the regulator was dropping to about 2-3 bar with the trigger pulled. It is an SGS 2.5hp, 9.3cfm 20L compressor.

Yes they have adjusters, were fully assembled, and pressed against the ground.

I think I will make a press fit tube to knock onto the bolt head and drill through. I should have started with that instead of copper shim.

[sickpup]

[MarJay]

I made a tool for my TT600 out of an old lawnmower handle. It was made of box section and I cut it down so it was castellated, and then I shoved it in the top of the fork leg and used a windy gun on the allen bolt at the bottom. Worked a charm.
____________________
British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F; Cheap project: CBR900RR FireBlade
Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.

[kramdra]

[sickpup]

[Irezumi]

Just get an aluminium tube then cut a couple of notches out to hold the rod in place, allen key will be all that is needed then. Why have you not taken the stanchions out already, will make life a lot easier?

[kramdra]

I followed the manual and used threadlock. I have not mixed fine and coarse threads but I dont remember what it was, will find out soon enough.

The original bolt was soft and took no effort to round, as is common for low grade cap head bolts.

Now, I have no idea what the bolt is. 8mm key should be M10, but then the head would be 16mm and wont fit the 15.8mm bore in the forks. I dont remember grinding down the bolt head OD. Now I made up a tool expecting the head atleast 15mm, and it is not. Plenty of length I will try again 14mm and enlarge until I get a good fit, then turn the end off and go 0.1 tighter.

https://i.postimg.cc/RZBsdWcQ/IMG-20200609-142834.jpg

Edit - bolt head was 14.75mm OD

[Tdibs]

I dont get it, if the bolt is already cracked, then you just need some pressure on the cartridge/damper to stop it spinning in place?

It cant be spinning if the cartridge is static? unless the thread is gone.
____________________
Previous : 09 Vanvan 125| 02' Sv650s || Current: 1999 Xj600n | 1992 DR650 RSE | 2005 Fazer 1000

[kramdra]

Tool is done. Great success.

https://i.postimg.cc/X7387C7y/IMG-20200609-202434.jpg

But what the shitting fuck is this? At first I thought I had drilled too far but it appears to be a banjo bolt!

https://i.postimg.cc/PxYWdtg4/IMG-20200609-204133.jpg

I have zero memory of this. I have zero memory of ever seeing or owning a cap head banjo bolt, possibly it is original and was not rounded or replaced last time.
It may have been one of my other bikes I replaced with an off the shelf, stainless.

Edit - And it still fucking spins. Note that the spring assemply presses on the body of the damper tube, excerts zero pressure on the bolt, hence compressing had no effect. The damper rod itself does press on the "bolt assembly" but would probably bend if you tried it.

Small circlip removes the bolt assembly. The valve? end looks complicated. This is no problem the er40 chuck will hold the body tight to remove the bolt.

https://i.postimg.cc/nhVf7rTX/IMG-20200609-205529.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/grFR51S7/IMG-20200609-211125.jpg

The thread is M10 x 1.25mm.

[Robby]

I'm slightly concerned about you being allowed near a lathe.

[sickpup]