Keeway Superlight 125 - Cut Out Issues

[Dannydavies05]

Hi everyone,

I was hoping somebody could help me with a few issues I am having with my Keeway Superlight 125. I am very much a newbie to the motorcycle world so do not have much expertise or knowledge to work from so apologise in advance if anything I say is incorrect or stupid.

I got my bike a few months ago and at first I did not have many issues, except that every now and then it would need a couple of goes before it fire up but then would run fine. However, as time has gone by this has become something that has become more and more common, to the point where it would need a couple of minutes before it would fire up every time I started the bike (electric or kick start) and then it got really worrying when every now and then when I was stopped (at traffic lights or junctions) it would cut out completely and I would need to restart the bike.

At this point I did a bit of research and on the advice of others changed the oil, replaced the spark plug and put in a new air filter. This helped in the general running of the bike but did not stop the starting up/cutting out issues and last weekend when I went on a longer trip it got really bad and after about 40 minutes of riding it cut out when I was on a dual garage way on numerous occasions. After this the bike would cut out every time the revs got low (on approach to traffic lights etc) and I noticed the idle position was low (just over 1 when it should be around 1.4). I luckily managed to get the bike home without much instance as I tried to drop to first when I thought I would need to slow down significantly and then just kept the revs up when I had to stop. I then left the bike to cool down and see if that changed anything and also tried to increase the rpm via the idle speed adjusting screw but I could not get it higher than just over 1 and the next time I tested it the same thing was happening till it would not start up at all. The reason for this strangely seemed to be down to the battery as the lights where dim too so I removed the battery, charged it back up and put it back in the bike and then it went back to how it was; will start up if you keep at it, idle's low and cuts out when the revs get too low.

Upon having a look around the carburettor I then noticed I had not seen before and was very surprised to see; the choke on the bike does not seem to be properly connected to the carburettor and I think a piece might be missing and no matter what position the choke is in it seems to always be in the fully on position.

I seen this yesterday and obviously do not want to go out on my bike if it is dangerous to me or others but I do need my bike for commuting so want to try and get back on the road asap. I was therefore wondering if anyone had any advice on what the issue could be with it cutting out and idling too low, is it down to the choke being constantly on or is it something else completely? Also, if anyone knows how to fix it I would obviously appreciate your help with that too!

Thanks in advance and sorry for such a long message!

[Robby]

If the choke is always on, the engine won't make much power and will die when the engine gets hot. So check/fix that.

If the choke lever is disconnected from the bike then the choke should be always off - they are usually spring loaded, so the default position is choke off. That makes it harder to start and tick over on a cold engine.

If it ran better after charging the battery, this suggests the battery is not charging. To test the charging circuit:

1. Get a multimeter, set to DC volts.
2. Remove the side panel. Hold/clip the multimeter onto the battery.
3. Start the engine. You should be seeing around 13V on the multimeter.
4. Hold the revs at around 4000rpm. You should be seeing around 14.5V on the multimeter.

If you are seeing significantly lower voltages, or if the voltage drops as the revs go up, it isn't charging. Most likely failure is the regulator/rectifier.

Sort the choke, check the charging system.

[Easy-X]

Just to add to Robby's list:

When's the last time the valve gaps were checked?

Take a look at the cable running down to the side stand switch - mine frayed to the point of failure - might be a common design flaw.
____________________
Royal Enfield Continental GT 535, Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[Dannydavies05]

Hi everyone,

Thanks so much for the replies and advice - much appreciated!

I have been looking at the choke again and the part from the switch that goes to inside the carburettor just is not there and looks as though it has been removed or broke off at some point.

I have ordered a complete new carburettor (as I cannot find anywhere to buy this part) and I am going to swap it out to see if this fixes the issue with the cutting out. With what you have said regarding effecting engine power etc I think this is a good place to start.

I am going to also test the charing system for the battery too and see if there is an issue with the battery charging.

In regards to the valve gaps, I have had the bike for a few months now and have not checked them - could this be a cause of the issue?

Thanks again and any more thoughts/opinions are also welcome!

[Easy-X]