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chickenstrip
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PostPosted: 02:45 - 25 Jul 2020    Post subject: Dynos and the real world Reply with quote

You often hear of folk seemingly proud of a read-out obtained from a dyno run of their bike, especially if they've had a bit of tuning or remapping done to it. But how closely does this illustrate what's going on in the real world, when the rubber hits the tarmac? How accurate a dyno figure does anybody actually need?

Once the wheels are turning on road or track, you've got air pressure into the airbox, which is in itself tuned to optimise air flow on a high performance bike. Maybe you even add forced induction: a turbo or supercharger or ram air, which takes the importance of all that air pressure up another notch or two (or maybe I've got that the wrong way round as far as turbo and superchargers are concerned, and such systems actually reduce the importance of the moving bike?). So if you were to measure power and torque curves on a bike being maxed out on the road or track, surely things would look a great deal different, and those dyno runs would count for pretty much nothing?
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 05:34 - 25 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

The power figures are mostly bragging rights. If you put a datalogger on a high powered bike you'll find that your everyday rider uses 10% throttle most of the time. Full throttle (which is where the bragging comes from) is rarely used on the road.

It can be a useful tool if you change out your exhaust system which on a fuel injected bike will make rich and lean spots in the curve (more rich than lean in many cases). Mapping out those spots can improve both the mid-range and the fuel consumption along with improving the overall delivery.
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jeffyjeff
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PostPosted: 07:43 - 25 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

The thing about a dyno run is that the results are objective. On XX date and time with XX ambient temperature and XX barometric pressure and at XX humidity, the engine produced XX torque at XX rpm, resulting in XX horsepower. The beauty of that objectivity is that the technician can assess the results of his/her tuning efforts or map changes in real, measurable terms.

On the road, the bikes performance is overly influenced by the skills of the rider. How many of us regularly take full advantage of all the power our bikes are capable of? Unless you are riding a 125 or maybe a 250, not many.
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 07:53 - 25 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

The only bike I ever put on a dyno was my busa after I put aftermarket silencers on it. The dyno bloke said it was a slight improvement on stock.

I'm sure I could feel every one of those 3 extra horses on top of the 170 odd the standard bike produced. Laughing
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wr6133
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PostPosted: 07:58 - 25 Jul 2020    Post subject: Re: Dynos and the real world Reply with quote

Dyno runs are illustrative of the bikes change over stock. Ideally you'd have a before and after of the bike done on the same dyno in the same conditions (ideally).

It's a (theoretically) controlled environment so you can make a comparision Vs pre-tuning figure, book figure, some other bike on same dyno figure, etc.

How else would you compare? Lining up on an airstrip is not really a reliable way to measure.
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The Shaggy D.A.
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PostPosted: 08:17 - 25 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Polarbear wrote:
The only bike I ever put on a dyno was my busa after I put aftermarket silencers on it. The dyno bloke said it was a slight improvement on stock.

I'm sure I could feel every one of those 3 extra horses on top of the 170 odd the standard bike produced. Laughing


I felt the extra horses at the bottom end Smile

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redeem ouzzer
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PostPosted: 08:18 - 25 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I love fiddling on the dyno, but unless you always use the same dyno it’s as much use as tits on a fish. I especially enjoy playing with ignition maps back to back and seeing losses / gains from run to run (same with carb setup), it’s a major buzz seeing gains (or losses). Also I don’t care what people say, it’s impossible to set up AFR properly without dyno time.

Plus you can do cool stuff like quantify why a £700 quid set of pipes are shit.

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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 09:02 - 25 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Shaggy D.A. wrote:
Polarbear wrote:
The only bike I ever put on a dyno was my busa after I put aftermarket silencers on it. The dyno bloke said it was a slight improvement on stock.

I'm sure I could feel every one of those 3 extra horses on top of the 170 odd the standard bike produced. Laughing


I felt the extra horses at the bottom end Smile

https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EkihPP2aMsY/Wyv7eJpnRkI/AAAAAAAAAjU/P6jxoo9O7wga8L1a220KTw4Qwqun0XQoQCK4BGAYYCw/s1600/Dynorun-779450.png


I presume that was your Royal Enfied?
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 09:44 - 25 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

The curve is far more important than the numbers anywhere that isn't a drag strip.

It's no good having 200+ ponies if you cant use them properly. I've ridden some older GSXR based bored/turbo'd bikes putting something like 200 out, and I've ridden a Ducati V4S. The former were by and large un-rideable on the street, you would feel wiped after a short journey trying to keep it all in check. The Ducati is a dream in comparison, though still something to be respectful of. We have the technology to make the power manageable by mere humans these days, and it was either non-existent or unobtainable beck then.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 10:07 - 25 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can't remember who's car it was on YouTube but they took their little shit box and put on better laid out steel headers (you have the variety of 4 into 1, 4 into 2 into 1, even vs uneven lengths etc.) and you could see from the dyno that the low end of the curve had a dip. The headers sorted it right out, quite surprised how effective they were.

Dynos are much more visual at getting a point across. If you've got something nagging at you about real, street performance they might reveal something you'd not been able to adequately describe previously.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 10:32 - 25 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use full throttle quite regularly when the need and conditions exist. 😎

A dyno test is just another tool.

People even brag that they get their shite serviced at the dealership. 🤣


But as mentioned, it is a more exact method of comparison than time to ride a big steep hill near where you stay.
Before phaph and after phaph is important.
Or if a need for phaph is suspected.

Ultimately competition industry makes most use of them.

Manufacturers also use them for post-repair load testing. For many reasons, insurance is one reason.
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spottedtango
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PostPosted: 10:53 - 25 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

A dyno is basically just to check you still have your 33bhp restrictors in.
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chickenstrip
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PostPosted: 11:08 - 25 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:


It can be a useful tool if you change out your exhaust system which on a fuel injected bike will make rich and lean spots in the curve (more rich than lean in many cases). Mapping out those spots can improve both the mid-range and the fuel consumption along with improving the overall delivery.


But doesn't it all change as soon as you throw the air pressure in the intake on a moving bike into the mix? Such that a bike set up to give optimal on the dyno is no longer giving that optimal when the bike is actually being ridden? I would think this would be especially true (but not exclusive to?) with a bike with ram air. Is it just a matter of making some further tweaks to account for this? Or is this just not a significant factor?
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 11:28 - 25 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've had my Street Triple R set up on the dyno... It's not for maximum power.

It did gain a couple of horses at the top end, but to be honest that's not what I wanted. I wanted a smoother, more direct throttle response and to ensure the fuelling was right throughout the range. Apparently Triumphs are usually rich at the bottom end and lean at the top. This is exactly what my bike was like. Also I had the Arrow full system to contend with.

This did all get sorted by the dyno setup, and now my Street is very lairy and the connection to the twist grip is much more direct. I love it, it's exactly what I wanted. It was well worth the money.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 14:11 - 25 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

chickenstrip wrote:
Pete. wrote:


It can be a useful tool if you change out your exhaust system which on a fuel injected bike will make rich and lean spots in the curve (more rich than lean in many cases). Mapping out those spots can improve both the mid-range and the fuel consumption along with improving the overall delivery.


But doesn't it all change as soon as you throw the air pressure in the intake on a moving bike into the mix? Such that a bike set up to give optimal on the dyno is no longer giving that optimal when the bike is actually being ridden? I would think this would be especially true (but not exclusive to?) with a bike with ram air. Is it just a matter of making some further tweaks to account for this? Or is this just not a significant factor?


The APS correction table takes care of that. Have you ever measures the gain from ram-air? Nor me, but an engineering bod from cranfield Uni I used to know did it on his 'busa and the biggest ram-air gains were fractions of a PSI.
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chickenstrip
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PostPosted: 14:29 - 25 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:


The APS correction table takes care of that. Have you ever measures the gain from ram-air? Nor me, but an engineering bod from cranfield Uni I used to know did it on his 'busa and the biggest ram-air gains were fractions of a PSI.


I think that pretty much answers my question, although I find it quite surprising.
A long time ago I read somewhere that Kawasaki spent a lot of time and money developing ram air and the air boxes to take advantage of it, and it wasn't an easy thing to get right. I had always assumed that air boxes generally were a bit more than just a box for air to pass through, and that there were various 'chambers' or shaped areas within that optimised (that's the best word I can come up with) air pressure and delivery to the fuelling system, and that it was all quite sensitive to changes. I guess it's all a bit simpler than the impression I had.
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 14:56 - 25 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

chickenstrip wrote:
Pete. wrote:


The APS correction table takes care of that. Have you ever measures the gain from ram-air? Nor me, but an engineering bod from cranfield Uni I used to know did it on his 'busa and the biggest ram-air gains were fractions of a PSI.


I think that pretty much answers my question, although I find it quite surprising.
A long time ago I read somewhere that Kawasaki spent a lot of time and money developing ram air and the air boxes to take advantage of it, and it wasn't an easy thing to get right. I had always assumed that air boxes generally were a bit more than just a box for air to pass through, and that there were various 'chambers' or shaped areas within that optimised (that's the best word I can come up with) air pressure and delivery to the fuelling system, and that it was all quite sensitive to changes. I guess it's all a bit simpler than the impression I had.


Kawasaki might have, but I don't think Suzuki did a lot of research for their Ram Air System, a bit of bent metal over the cooling fins. Laughing

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wr6133
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PostPosted: 19:12 - 25 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

chickenstrip wrote:

A long time ago I read somewhere that Kawasaki spent a lot of time and money developing ram air and the air boxes to take advantage of it, and it wasn't an easy thing to get right.


The Ram air on my ZZR (E model) seems a bit OTT for the gains it gives. The 2 little scoops at the front each lead too their own dual chambered setup, the lower of which has a tube connecting it to the airbox. Adds bulk, weight and can be awkward to refit.

The non-ram air D model made 96BHP, the ram air E model along with other engine improvements made 99BHP.
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chickenstrip
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PostPosted: 19:20 - 25 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

It seems they wasted their time and money then Laughing

They should have stuck with turbochargers. When I wrecked the turbo on my 750 turbo and sourced a second hand replacement, when I first tried the repaired bike out, it was gutless, presumably because the replacement turbo had sat around for a while and the impeller had got gummed up a bit with old oil (?). Only took a couple of miles for it to get up and running properly though. But without it, you have a heavy 750 with very low compression, 7:1 or something like that, slow as feck.
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The Shaggy D.A.
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PostPosted: 19:27 - 25 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Polarbear wrote:
The Shaggy D.A. wrote:


I presume that was your Royal Enfied?


Aye, the Electra. The previous owner had gone through the Hitchcocks catalogue buying every last shiny bolt on farkle he could, changed the gearing, exhaust, carb and air filter, but never set it up. It had a dead spot off idle which then jerked on pickup. I handed it over to a local company since I didn't have the time to fart about with it.

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MCN
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PostPosted: 19:38 - 25 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

chickenstrip wrote:
Pete. wrote:


The APS correction table takes care of that. Have you ever measures the gain from ram-air? Nor me, but an engineering bod from cranfield Uni I used to know did it on his 'busa and the biggest ram-air gains were fractions of a PSI.


I think that pretty much answers my question, although I find it quite surprising.
A long time ago I read somewhere that Kawasaki spent a lot of time and money developing ram air and the air boxes to take advantage of it, and it wasn't an easy thing to get right. I had always assumed that air boxes generally were a bit more than just a box for air to pass through, and that there were various 'chambers' or shaped areas within that optimised (that's the best word I can come up with) air pressure and delivery to the fuelling system, and that it was all quite sensitive to changes. I guess it's all a bit simpler than the impression I had.


Ram Air is probably the most practical way for a bike engine to ingest air.
Air drawn in (pushed by the action of gravity on our atmosphere) from any other direction would create a reduced pressure due to venturi/aerofoil effects.
Having air pushed in by forwards motion of the engine and bike (and rider) negates the aerodynamics.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 21:00 - 25 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

chickenstrip wrote:
Pete. wrote:


The APS correction table takes care of that. Have you ever measures the gain from ram-air? Nor me, but an engineering bod from cranfield Uni I used to know did it on his 'busa and the biggest ram-air gains were fractions of a PSI.


I think that pretty much answers my question, although I find it quite surprising.
A long time ago I read somewhere that Kawasaki spent a lot of time and money developing ram air and the air boxes to take advantage of it, and it wasn't an easy thing to get right. I had always assumed that air boxes generally were a bit more than just a box for air to pass through, and that there were various 'chambers' or shaped areas within that optimised (that's the best word I can come up with) air pressure and delivery to the fuelling system, and that it was all quite sensitive to changes. I guess it's all a bit simpler than the impression I had.


I'm certain that you're right and that it is in fact very complicated - I bet the ram-air is more about having a reservoir and keeping it filled than 'ramming air into the engine' Remember that just like the exhaust, the intake is a pulsing system. You don't want the air stopping and starting so several zones of varying capacity will damp out the pulses by slowing the airflow a certain distance from the valve then speeding it up again as it approaches, for maximum fill. Having an air scoop would help keep the entire system fed.
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chickenstrip
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PostPosted: 11:57 - 26 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, I think it has clicked. Air intake systems on normally aspirated bikes are designed to ensure that changes in air pressure surrounding a moving bike do not alter how it performs, but rather are designed to isolate the intake from such external effects. Correct?
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