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How the hell do I get a stuck fuel cap to open lol?

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RickTaff
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PostPosted: 01:20 - 26 Jul 2020    Post subject: How the hell do I get a stuck fuel cap to open lol? Reply with quote

zxr 750 1991. Fuel tank is off the bike, no fuel in it. Key will go into the barrel fine, but will only turn 45 degrees to the right, will not go any further

Have shot wd40 down there, wiggled the key. Pushed down on the key while turning - nothing -... stumped

any ideas would be greatly appreciated Laughing
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 01:33 - 26 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try it upside-down or at some other angle? Leave it to soak with some solvent in (e.g. petrol) and jiggle the key about while gently turning? Drip some solvent in and blow it out with air then try again?? Swear at it and repeat?
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jeffyjeff
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PostPosted: 03:22 - 26 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maybe the lock is working right. After years of storage, the cap and seal ring could be stuck shut. Try adding a pint of gasoline into the tank via the fuel line (that feeds the carburetor). Turn upside down to work the petrol toward the cap seal. Apply compressed air into the tank as you turn the lock and attempt cap removal. Be prepared for a burst as the cap opens.
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The Shaggy D.A.
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PostPosted: 06:32 - 26 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can't you unbolt it from the tank?
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The Shaggy D.A.
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PostPosted: 06:32 - 26 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can't you unbolt it from the tank?
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Chances are quite high you are not in my Monkeysphere, and I don't care about you. Don't take it personally.
Currently : Royal Enfield 350 Meteor
Previously : CB100N > CB250RS > XJ900F > GT550 > GPZ750R/1000RX > AJS M16 > R100RT > Bullet 500 > CB500 > LS650P > Bullet Electra X & YBR125 > Bullet 350 "Superstar" & YBR125 Custom > Royal Enfield Classic 500 Despatch Limited Edition (28 of 200) & CB Two-Fifty Nighthawk > ER5
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MCN
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PostPosted: 08:18 - 26 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can you unbolt it from the tank?

Asking for a friend.

Pour a boiled kettle over it. Maybe not bubbling hot. Not all at once.
Heating the phuquer may soften the rubber sealing ring and then it might move. It may take a minute or more to heat up the cap, tank neck and seal.
Then either get a new cap or try some silicone grease on the seal of the old one.
Silicone won't harm the rubber seal. Oil based grease might.
And never use an oil based lubrication with a condom either. 😉
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Robby
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PostPosted: 08:48 - 26 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is this a bike that has been standing for a while?

If so, the cap locking mechanism is likely to be covered in loads of alloy corrosion - white powdery shite.

Lots of WD40, keep working the key. You will gradually scrape it off by operating the lock.
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pepperami
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PostPosted: 09:41 - 26 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I’ve said this before and I’ll say it again.

Compressed air and solvents/oils/fuels and enclosed spaces (petrol tanks) are a very dangerous mix. Shocked
You may have no problem for 999 times, the next time BOOM!


Please be careful!
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Kawasaki Jimbo
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PostPosted: 11:01 - 26 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had this problem. You can't remove the cap surround because the bolt(s) holding it to the tank are under the cap. WD40, etc. didn't work and I escalated up to brute force, starting with a rubber mallet hoping to break the corrosion (unsuccessful), then on to narrow-nose pliers around the base of the key, and turn. The key survived with a slight twist but it's helpful if you've got a spare. Last resort though.

When it freed it was apparent that the corrosion was in the latch. Applications of oils and solvents through the barrel wouldn't have reached there.
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RickTaff
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PostPosted: 21:25 - 27 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kawasaki Jimbo wrote:
I had this problem. You can't remove the cap surround because the bolt(s) holding it to the tank are under the cap. WD40, etc. didn't work and I escalated up to brute force, starting with a rubber mallet hoping to break the corrosion (unsuccessful), then on to narrow-nose pliers around the base of the key, and turn. The key survived with a slight twist but it's helpful if you've got a spare. Last resort though.

When it freed it was apparent that the corrosion was in the latch. Applications of oils and solvents through the barrel wouldn't have reached there.


getting a spare or 2 cut tomorrow. Do you mean insert key into the barrel, and rather than turn it by hand grip it with pliers on the stem of the key and use them to turn it?


Last edited by RickTaff on 21:29 - 27 Jul 2020; edited 1 time in total
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RickTaff
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PostPosted: 21:28 - 27 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby wrote:
Is this a bike that has been standing for a while?

If so, the cap locking mechanism is likely to be covered in loads of alloy corrosion - white powdery shite.

Lots of WD40, keep working the key. You will gradually scrape it off by operating the lock.


I believe it has been stood for a while in a garage yes. How long though i couldnt say.
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RickTaff
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PostPosted: 22:21 - 27 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Finally done it! Relief
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pepperami
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PostPosted: 08:36 - 28 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

RickTaff wrote:
Finally done it! Relief


How did you do it and what bit was stuck?
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MCN
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PostPosted: 10:46 - 28 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

pepperami wrote:
RickTaff wrote:
Finally done it! Relief


How did you do it and what bit was stuck?


Well?
Spill the beans Punk. (Rick Taff)
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RickTaff
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PostPosted: 18:31 - 28 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

pepperami wrote:
RickTaff wrote:
Finally done it! Relief


How did you do it and what bit was stuck?


The key wouldnt turn far enough to open the latch. Was like hitting a brick wall. Ended up sticking broken half of the other key into the barrel, and gripping it with needle nose pliers and turning. turned straight away. Oiled the latch and like new now
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 23:45 - 28 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well full marks for
Kawasaki Jimbo
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