Brake calipers - portable air compressor recomendation

[NJD]

Hi,

So in the near future I'll be running a FZS600 (MK1 box-eye) with the blue spot Yamaha calipers, and of course the notorious standard rear caliper that is known for gunking up (although how often, or bad, it gets I'm yet to experience). I'm aware it can be swapped out for a FZS1000 with a bit of file work to the FZS600 bracket, but my question stands weather I upgrade down the line or not (due to design of both being similar, if not same).

I'm looking for recommendations on what PORTABLE air compressor would be suitable for for removing the pistons from this caliper (and in general, since from time to time I work on a few different ones, but keep it specific to the FZS600 for now).

I've found the below one, but am not sure if it contains all the bits I'd need:

https://www.screwfix.com/p/scheppach-air-case-2ltr-electric-portable-air-compressor-230v/2234v

I'm aware you're supposed to work on one side, re-fit and then attach the other but I'm looking at spending short term to save time long term. I don't have space for a full sized compressor (providing the one I link can be stored indoors without risk of fire -- nothing internally I need to know about?).

Also, if the one linked does contain all the bits, best method of use? IE: Banjo bolt, cut piece of hose with pipe shoved in; air gun straight down the banjo hole etc?

I'm aware you can use foot pumps, but I'm looking at portable compressors to save time where hydralic fluid may not work or can't be used (raining outside etc, but have the time to work on caliper indoors away from bike).

May take recommendations on cheap foot pumps, but only if you've got a link to one you've used with attachments on gunked up calipers. Plug (wall sockets) mini compressors that have all the bits I'd need can be considered also, but mainly looking at the one I've linked unless similar design elsewhere cheaper.

Thanks (wont be able to reply until later, not ignoring any help given).
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[Robby]

I've done this job many times. I have never used compressed air, just pump them out using the brake lever. Once they are most of the way out you can pull them out by hand. Far more controllable than using compressed air.

[stinkwheel]

Another trick if they are mega stuck (even better than a compressor) is to blank off the banjo bolt using a plain bolt and pump them out with a grease gun on the nipple.

You can get 10,000+psi out of a manual grease gun.

Or put a rowl-bolt into the pistons (assuming they are hollow ones) and slide-hammer them out
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[kramdra]

Pulling pistons is a messy job. Your reasoning is to do it inside, no, just do it outside. Does it matter that much if you get a bit wet? Are you British? Should be used to it.

Regular servicing, plus never pushing dirty pistons back in, will avoid this problem. As said above, pump the pistons out evenly before splitting if it is a 4 or 6 pot, using spacers to hold the free pistons back, but often that is not enough to pull the pistons by hand. Single piston rears are easy, just pump all the way out, keep the master topped if it runs low.

You dont want a good air compressor for brakes. Hydrualic fluid likes to go up the hose, use a check valve to prevent that. Air is a spring with a lot of energy, so I prefer low flow, no tank. Cheap tyre inflators will do 150 psi and is what I use. A momentary foot switch, and bench mounted vice to hold caliper, will free up your hands maake much easier.

Often one piston comes out easy leaving another stuck. Use a clamp to constrain the free piston in the bore. I wrap the caliper half in old rags to prevent the piston shooting out, and to catch the fluid.

More than once I have been lazy, wrapped the piston with rubber sheet or cloth and pulled it while rotating with waterpump pliers. I have never marked a piston this way but it is not recommened, easy to fuck up if not careful.

The 12 quid Ring branded inflators from wilko are adequate for tyres and brakes. If you are not spraying or using air tools you wont need anything better, it will fit under seat. Cordless tools beat air tools anyway.

[NJD]

[NJD]

[jeffyjeff]

[stinkwheel]

[kramdra]

[NJD]

[NJD]

[kramdra]

[stinkwheel]

I've never actually had to do it in fairness. Just aware of the technique. The ends of grease guns are usually adjustable for different diameter nipples.

You'll usually be able to pump them out with the normal hydraulics though. I've never not been able to. Even if I had to pump one piston out then put it back in and re-bleed it and pump the next one out.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[kramdra]

www.youtube.com/watch?v=tbFKSy9oA0A

www.youtube.com/watch?v=J6Ajw5zh1ts

[Robby]

[chris-red]

I have a TDM900 with blue spot front and rears. it has 105,000 miles on it. It has never had the front calipers rebuilt and I rebuilt the rear once. I would clean them every time I put new pads in the front, and maybe once between pad swaps towards the end of winter. The Brakes are still excellent.

If it was to need a front rebuild I would buy somethign like this. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Auto-Tools-Direct-Motorcycle-Removal/dp/B017SZ6DDM

Or do it cheaply with an old push bike inner tube and a pair of Pliers.
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[Tdibs]

The one time ive needed compressed air when rebuilding a old split caliper, I just asked in the local garage and they popped the pistons out on a lunch break for free. Not sure its worth the investment, any decent place with a compressor should do it in 2 secs for you.

Echoing other sentiments, get a rebuild kit to hand, then pump them out equally, might have to keep working one in and out to get them both poking out. A thin bit of wood or anything in the middle to stop one shooting out, get them as proud as you can, then its a cake walk to pull them when its split. Also remember to crack all the bolts while its still mounted on the bike, makes it easier than doing any of it in a vice.
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Previous : 09 Vanvan 125| 02' Sv650s || Current: 1999 Xj600n | 1992 DR650 RSE | 2005 Fazer 1000

[NJD]

Probably be easier to figure out when I've got the bike, but looks to be that the rear can be split, but the front cannot.

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/38EAAOSwMgdX0EDJ/s-l1600.jpg

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/13cAAOSwi0RX0EDu/s-l1600.jpg

Worked on brakes before, but when I posted this I wasn't aware the rear could be split. As for the front I'll probably have to go with working on one side, bleed and re-do. Slow, and pain, but a far cry better than the million and one wires and bleed nipples on the CBF1000 with abs (long live simpler bikes ).

Thanks all for the input, and any further comments made.
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The do it all, T̶h̶e̶ ̶b̶r̶o̶k̶e̶n̶ ̶o̶n̶e̶,̶ ̶T̶h̶e̶ ̶b̶i̶g̶ ̶l̶u̶m̶p̶,̶ ̶C̶h̶o̶n̶g̶ ̶N̶o̶o̶d̶l̶e̶

[steve the grease]

If you want to buy a compressor mate, just buy one ... ,and why not they are very useful for a hundred jobs. You don't have to convince us. Spending a hundred quid ( or whatever) is a lot of money though to remove 2 brake cylinder pistons when they can be just pumped out for nothing.
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All the above is my personal opinion, you can see my lips move, but I'm talking out of my arse.
I've been riding, and fixing , bikes for 50 years, in that time the more I learn, the less I am absolutely sure of.....

[FretGrinder]

[Tdibs]

Front cant be split, but you can unscrew the 2 blue anodized caps with the tool, although obviously only helping with one side.
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Previous : 09 Vanvan 125| 02' Sv650s || Current: 1999 Xj600n | 1992 DR650 RSE | 2005 Fazer 1000

[NJD]

[NJD]

[Fizzer Thou]

[NJD]