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pepperami
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PostPosted: 22:23 - 26 Jul 2020    Post subject: Drilling epoxy/filler Reply with quote

So I’m working on the fairing of project ‘Hyosung Shyte Heap’.
The original fixings are dreadful and weak.

I’m trying to improve/repair what’s left of the fixings and have an idea.
I’m thinking of completely filling the fixings spaces and then drilling and tapping in a new thread.
In my patch tests, Isopon P40 appears to have the strongest bond and has a hardness/toughness?

So I’m asking the mighty BCF : is drilling Isopon P40 and tapping a new thread a viable idea.?
I’ve never drilled Isopon before.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 22:45 - 26 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know JB weld takes a tap nicely.

P40 looks like it's a chopped fibreglass based polyester resin though? I'm not sure how well that'll take a tap and could well land up with a raggedy hole. Might be better off with a well-nut or rivnut in a wider hole? Not even sure how well it'll cure through if it's applied thickly? Maybe even build a nut into the filler if you want a thread in there?

If you thickened resin with something like aluminium dust, you'd get a pretty robust material.

I'm not entirely clear what you're proposing to do though. Isposon is usually used to fill voids in rusty but non-structural bodywork, not to take structural fittings..
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 23:40 - 26 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I`ve used JB weld where the thread was stripped in a very hard plastic hole, so i filled the hole with JB but had no room to tap it, so i fitted the bolt with a thin coating of thin oil on the threads and removed it after 12 hours just before hardening and it worked ok.
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pepperami
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PostPosted: 23:43 - 26 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
I know JB weld takes a tap nicely.

P40 looks like it's a chopped fibreglass based polyester resin though? I'm not sure how well that'll take a tap and could well land up with a raggedy hole. Might be better off with a well-nut or rivnut in a wider hole? Not even sure how well it'll cure through if it's applied thickly? Maybe even build a nut into the filler if you want a thread in there?

If you thickened resin with something like aluminium dust, you'd get a pretty robust material.

I'm not entirely clear what you're proposing to do though. Isposon is usually used to fill voids in rusty but non-structural bodywork, not to take structural fittings..


Thank you for your wisdom Thumbs Up .
On my test patch, Isopon appeared to be the toughest.
I did think about putting a strategically placed nut in the filler .
As for the purpose: that particular fixing holds the side of the fairing against the body and bares no weight.
I’m filling the gaps around what’s left of the tabs that masquerade as fixing points .
It’s all about trying to put something there to work with.
The klutz who had this bike before me thought taking a fairing off meant you just pull very hard until things go snap!
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MCN
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PostPosted: 03:17 - 27 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wouldn't waste money on JB Weld. It's over rated now-a-days. The guy who invented passed away, his Mrs. kept it going and some shrewd marketing followed. (And it's not so widely available in U.K.)
There are much better materials available now.
We used https://www.belzona.com/en/index.aspx
to repair alumininininuniunm engine sump pans on big fcuk off marine diesels. Sticks like-shite-to-a-blanket and excellent machine-ability.

If it's a plastic fairing then it's most likely ABS and weld-able using ABS weld methods.

Or just cut to the chase and use Plastex.

At a pinch.... Baking Powder and Superglue will stick to it and is quite tough. And cheaper than a bag of chips.
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Robby
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PostPosted: 07:43 - 27 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did the original fairings have threads tapped into plastic? Never seen that before, I've always seen them use a captive nut of some kind.

Captive nut allows for things to move around a bit as you tighten them. A fixed thread does not.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 12:13 - 27 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Or rivett on dzeus fastener backplates.
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pepperami
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PostPosted: 15:52 - 27 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:


At a pinch.... Baking Powder and Superglue will stick to it and is quite tough. And cheaper than a bag of chips.


???? This is a new one to me?
Have you used this formula yourself?.... do tell?
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pepperami
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PostPosted: 16:02 - 27 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby wrote:
Did the original fairings have threads tapped into plastic? Never seen that before, I've always seen them use a captive nut of some kind.

Captive nut allows for things to move around a bit as you tighten them. A fixed thread does not.


No the original didn’t have threads tapped into plastic.
The original fixings are not there anymore after the previous owner removed the fairing by pulling until things went snap!

I’m just looking at ideas at the moment.
Firstly I have to build ‘something’ on the fairing to aid fixing it to the bike.
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 16:21 - 27 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

pepperami wrote:
The original fixings are not there anymore after the previous owner removed the fairing by pulling until things went snap!

You could get some fixings.
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 16:52 - 27 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

ABS stick/sheet, soldering iron. You can use brass captive nuts and melt them into whatever you want to fasten easily enough. They're very inexpensive things.

https://sc02.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1R0PMbifrK1RjSspbq6A4pFXaK/220932354/HTB1R0PMbifrK1RjSspbq6A4pFXaK.jpg
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 17:06 - 27 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pop rivett and bond alloy brackets to it. If aesthetics don't matter.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 17:22 - 27 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

pepperami wrote:
MCN wrote:


At a pinch.... Baking Powder and Superglue will stick to it and is quite tough. And cheaper than a bag of chips.


???? This is a new one to me?
Have you used this formula yourself?.... do tell?


https://www.instructables.com/id/Baking-Soda-Reinforcing-Glue-Repair/#:~:text=For%20example%20if%20you%20want,making%20a%20rock%20solid%20bond.

I've bakingpowder-superglued tons of stuff.

It is very hard when set and is drill-able. But I've not tapped it.

It's a great filler.
Beware of the vapour. Basty Nastard.
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steve the grease
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PostPosted: 17:27 - 27 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

There are these things , which I have now discovered are called chimney nuts... They are like a clip on nut so you could clip them onto a panel edge, or alternatively clip them onto a strip of metal , which could then be fixed to the fairing with epoxy or whatever....They are so useful.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SPIRE-CLIPS-CHIMNEY-NUTS-SPEED-CLIPS-U-NUTS-LUG-NUT-PANEL-FASTENERS-M4-M5-M6-M8/163062209039?hash=item25f743da0f:g:ygAAAOSwyARbO0~P
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pepperami
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PostPosted: 18:11 - 27 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Riejufixing wrote:
pepperami wrote:
The original fixings are not there anymore after the previous owner removed the fairing by pulling until things went snap!

You could get some fixings.


No, they’ve been snapped off the fairing, that’s why I’m trying to come up with a solution.
They were part of the fairing.
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Last edited by pepperami on 19:19 - 27 Jul 2020; edited 1 time in total
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 18:53 - 27 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

pepperami wrote:
Riejufixing wrote:
You could get some fixings.

No, they’ve been snapped off the fairing, that’s why I’m trying to come up with a solution.
The were part of the fairing.

OIC. A picture paints a thousand words. Can you get some plastic, and glue it up? It'll be ABS almost certainly, so solvent cement from Screwfix or wherever would be as strong as the original material, and all sorts of things are made of the same material (pipework, toys, fairings, wheel trims, wall warts, computer casings, https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/12576/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=abs&LH_TitleDesc=0&_sop=15 you name it) and would be useful to stick on.
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pepperami
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PostPosted: 13:23 - 29 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

steve the grease wrote:
There are these things , which I have now discovered are called chimney nuts... They are like a clip on nut so you could clip them onto a panel edge, or alternatively clip them onto a strip of metal , which could then be fixed to the fairing with epoxy or whatever....They are so useful.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SPIRE-CLIPS-CHIMNEY-NUTS-SPEED-CLIPS-U-NUTS-LUG-NUT-PANEL-FASTENERS-M4-M5-M6-M8/163062209039?hash=item25f743da0f:g:ygAAAOSwyARbO0~P

Those are the the things that were the original fixings Evil or Very Mad
They do not do well when they are weathered/corroded.
They also refuse to let go of the plastic even when you’ve got the screw out.
I’ve bought some new ones and made the gap bigger to accommodate my bodgery if all else fails.
I’ve also bought some metal/rubber bonded washers as another option to assist with giving the mountings a tiny degree of vibration absorption .
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 15:48 - 29 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stainless are good. https://www.speedyfasteners.com/10x_M5_Motorcycle_Fairing_Clips_Bolts_p/sf111.htm
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xX-Alex-Xx
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PostPosted: 16:32 - 29 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

pepperami wrote:
steve the grease wrote:
There are these things , which I have now discovered are called chimney nuts... They are like a clip on nut so you could clip them onto a panel edge, or alternatively clip them onto a strip of metal , which could then be fixed to the fairing with epoxy or whatever....They are so useful.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SPIRE-CLIPS-CHIMNEY-NUTS-SPEED-CLIPS-U-NUTS-LUG-NUT-PANEL-FASTENERS-M4-M5-M6-M8/163062209039?hash=item25f743da0f:g:ygAAAOSwyARbO0~P

Those are the the things that were the original fixings Evil or Very Mad
They do not do well when they are weathered/corroded.
They also refuse to let go of the plastic even when you’ve got the screw out.
I’ve bought some new ones and made the gap bigger to accommodate my bodgery if all else fails.
I’ve also bought some metal/rubber bonded washers as another option to assist with giving the mountings a tiny degree of vibration absorption .


Unless you want them to stay on, in which case they drop off at the worst moment and usually to somewhere inaccessible to anyone with hands larger than a baby’s.
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