K157FMI Valve clearances

[ThatDippyTwat]

Trying to do the valve clearances on the 125 as it's a touch tappy up top. It's a Keeway RKS125. Same motor as the Keeway RKV125. The manual https://www.manualslib.com/manual/922664/Keeway-Rkv125.html?page=129 says .03-.05 intake and exhaust.

Line up timing mark, and the exhaust isn't an issue, set to .05. The intake however, is not playing cricket. If someone knows these engines, is there a 2nd timing mark? Is this the correct mark? There are no letters beside it. What you see is what I see.

https://i.imgur.com/QXoTjnll.jpg

The manual specifies feck all about what marks there are at all, and I can't see another, but as I don't have some oddball socket (18mm, long, thin wall by the looks of it), I have to turn the motor over via the back wheel, so finesse is a tall order. I cannot get the feeler to slide, and the adjuster is flopping about like a mad thing. Gut says there must be something I'm missing, and that I'm trying to set it at the wrong position on the cycle. Any input appreciated, because this is doing my head in.
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'98 VFR800 (touring) - '12 VFR800 Crosrunner (Commuting) - '01 KDX220 (Big Green Antisocial Machine)

[Nobby the Bastard]

I'd just get the lobe on the cam to be facing 180 degrees from the lifter/rocker/valve (whichever it actually moves....)
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Sprint ST 1050

[WD Forte]

0.03 what?
thou or mm?
0.03mm is about 1 thou so I reckon you may have added an extra zero.

0.03" is 30 thou and thassa bit large mate.

(Edited cos I ferked up and have now RTFM)

Many tappets, like mine are set around 0.1mm(abt 4 thou) IN and 0.12mm( abt 5 thou) EX

rough guide is to watch the inlet rocker/valve as you turn the wheel
after it closes, watch for the mark and stop turning when you get there
That'll be TDC on the compression stroke or TDCC
you can also stick summat down the plug hole to check
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bikers smell of wee

[ThatDippyTwat]

[jeffyjeff]

[ThatDippyTwat]

I'll have another look at the weekend. It can rot in the corner for the rest of tonight.
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'98 VFR800 (touring) - '12 VFR800 Crosrunner (Commuting) - '01 KDX220 (Big Green Antisocial Machine)

[ThatDippyTwat]

Ursa I am missing something entirely (which is a very real possibility), then I cannot get the gauge under on any part of the cycle. Even with the adjuster completely out of its hole (to confirm I am indeed not getting a gap). I lined up to the mark, confirmed it was TDC - No joy. I rotated it until it got TDC again, still no joy. If I'm doing or missing something silly, please point it out, this isn't your usual BCF "I'm doing it my way, fuck you" question and ignorance session. While I've adjusted valve clearance in the past, all of them had specific marks and instructions to follow, and were not a problem.
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'98 VFR800 (touring) - '12 VFR800 Crosrunner (Commuting) - '01 KDX220 (Big Green Antisocial Machine)

[kramdra]

It is a single cylinder 125, it only needs one timing mark. If it is a K157FMI then same engine as my Sinnis Stealth and very simple to do. Requires small hands to do the intake.

From what you say, it is probably worth removing the head to inspect the seat. Heads are cheap enough on these.

[Easy-X]

Timing marks? Am I being a bit thick here... I turn the engine over, the valves go in and out, I guess where the middle of "out" is and measure the gap
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Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[ThatDippyTwat]

Swapped my feeler gauges for my work set. I can now get then in. Convinced the numbers given are wrong as it sounds like a bag of nails, but it does start (I killed it just as it fired). Reckon I'll go with standard K157FMI figures, (.08 and .13), and see what that does
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'98 VFR800 (touring) - '12 VFR800 Crosrunner (Commuting) - '01 KDX220 (Big Green Antisocial Machine)

[Easy-X]

Just looking at an old Keeway manual and they have it down as 0.07~0.09mm (in) and 0.08~0.10mm (out)

That's for a KW157FMI which AFAIK is very similar to the K157FMI.
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Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[ThatDippyTwat]

[ThatDippyTwat]

Just so anyone checking this has an update, Official figures from the importer for the Euro 3, pre-EFI Keeyway RKS125 are .04-.08 intake, .04-.08 exhaust. They didn't specify, but I have to presume mm. I'll check it at the weekend.

I did set .08 intake, .13 exhaust, as you would on most GS derived motors, but it sounded tappy as all hell.
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'98 VFR800 (touring) - '12 VFR800 Crosrunner (Commuting) - '01 KDX220 (Big Green Antisocial Machine)

[oilyrag]

The manual you put up says

Basic Data Unit mm
Intake 0.03-0.05
Exhaust 0.03-0.05

[ThatDippyTwat]

[steve the grease]

As its a 4 stroke engine there are 2 rotations of the engine to complete a cycle. so there are 2 TDC's - compression and what some people call 'the rock'. So called because this is where the exh is just closing and the inlet is just opening ( so they appear to rock). Its important to set the tappets with the TDC on the compression stroke , when both followers are well onto the heel of the cam - Turn the engine over and observe the position of the T mark in relation to the valves opening and closing as you turn the engine over, then it should make sense.
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All the above is my personal opinion, you can see my lips move, but I'm talking out of my arse.
I've been riding, and fixing , bikes for 50 years, in that time the more I learn, the less I am absolutely sure of.....

[oilyrag]

Is that it? https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1076829/Keeway-2015-Rks-125-26.html?page=12#manual