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NJD
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PostPosted: 22:09 - 14 Sep 2020    Post subject: What type of bulb is this? Reply with quote

So I ordered a set of philips extreme vision bulbs from Amazon market place but what arrived (see below) does not look the picture?

The packet says H4 60/55w which is what I need, but feel these may not be?

The yellow on the bulb (persume hi/low) is also in two different locations on either bulb?

Not sure if I've snagged something that may work better than intended or if I should return. I have the Orsam nightbreakers so not bothered either way, but wanted to ask before attempting to fit?

The one on the right has also been rattling around in transit, if that means it may be damaged?


https://i.postimg.cc/x8TDFJH3/20200914-230324.jpg
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 22:21 - 14 Sep 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Those are LED bulbs. They could be significantly better, or worse, depending on if they are cheap shit ones or not.
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NJD
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PostPosted: 22:41 - 14 Sep 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Those are LED bulbs. They could be significantly better, or worse, depending on if they are cheap shit ones or not.


Interesting.

Look to be a h4 fitting with three prongs. Turns out the yellow parts are located the same on both (removed from packet to check) so no issue there.

Clearly not what I ordered then. Not philips branded, or branded at all.

Might try out of curiosity for a ride or two.
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steve the grease
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PostPosted: 10:14 - 15 Sep 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry to be boring, but retrofitting LED bulbs technically makes the light not comply with it's original E marking , and therefore illegal.
Who gives a shit , no one really except that I tried some LED bulbs in my car , there was lots of light everywhere except where I needed it on the road and it was totally dazzling for anyone coming the other way. I chucked them out. Maybe things have improved since I had mine , one would hope so.
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 10:22 - 15 Sep 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I gather they have to have a specific reflector or they don't focus the light properly as Steve said.

Saying that, I'd be tempted to try them out of curiosity but if they aren't branded, they are probably going to be cheap sh1t that cost less than the Philips bulbs would. Can you find them if you search LED headlight bulbs?
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Ste
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PostPosted: 10:27 - 15 Sep 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Complain to Amazon about it.

Your link isn't to who you bought from as that link is to bulbs sold by and dispatched by Amazon rather than a third party seller on the marketplace.
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 10:34 - 15 Sep 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ste wrote:
Complain to Amazon about it.

Your link isn't to who you bought from as that link is to bulbs sold by and dispatched by Amazon rather than a third party seller on the marketplace.


Good point.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 10:49 - 15 Sep 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

The reflector of the lamp is a major part of the lamps focusing arrangements and if incorrectly aimed the light will not be as good as OEM.

HID suffers from the similar problems.

Mainly, the light is scattered rather than directed by the reflector and lens.
It reduces the effectiveness of the light and worse, dazzles oncoming traffic.

HID systems are so affected by anything in the beam that it is a requirement that vehicles have a lens cleaning system to remove dirt from the lens. The dirt produces a dazzling effect too.

LED bulds are superior to incandescent bulbs as they use less energy for the same lux output therefore, more light can be pushed out using the same energy.

There are replacement LEDs for incandescent lights where the LED elements are positioned to maintain designed focus.

If you can be arsed dealing with youtube's ad-shite, there's some interesting info from Big Clive here.

https://youtu.be/CX_uFs5vKc0
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 12:46 - 15 Sep 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good quality LED bulbs will be properly focused and aligned and will give a crisper, more focused beam pattern than standard incandescants.

Cheap nasty ones will not.

The MOT guy actually commented on how clear the beam pattern on my bullet was and it has an H4 lucas reflector unit with a decent quality LED bulb. For what it's worth, my LED bulb has a moveable collar with a lock nut allowing you to rotate it relative to the three tangs which did need tweaking slightly to bring it into sharp focus. It also has a seperate electronic controller pack and was £45.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 13:17 - 15 Sep 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:

If you can be arsed dealing with youtube's ad-shite, there's some interesting info from Big Clive here.

https://youtu.be/CX_uFs5vKc0


Interesting. Might be worth re-visiting the whole AC aspect. I tried an LED headlamp bulb on my regulated 12V single phase AC output before and it briefly give off the same light as a small sun before going "dink". That was a particularly cheap and nasty bulb though. I see no reason why the one he has there wouldn't deal with AC.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 19:07 - 15 Sep 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

LEDs are a bit area 51 when it comes to installing and DIY. I never imagined there was any issue but if not enough volts or amps to run the control circuits then the wee bits in the PCB can over heat and let their smoke out.
No harm in experimenting at they are robust and but even cheap ones can be relatively expensive if they go phsst after a few hours.
It's not rocket surgery and i dont want to prevent anypne having a bash but one has to have a basic inclination of what's what.

Lights are only permitted to be a certain max lux
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 20:42 - 15 Sep 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Biggest issue with fitting them to many motorbikes is actually headroom. The heat sink often fouls other parts behind the headlamp.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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NJD
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PostPosted: 21:23 - 15 Sep 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll soak in the above a bit more at another time but to update:

I contacted Amazon after posting last night (and the first response) and they issued a refund without the need to return the item.

Attempted to fit the H4 Orsam Nightbreakers (I ordered those and philips extreme to test either, and have spares) only to realise the manual is wrong and I have a H1 low beam and H4 on the high beam. Typically the old (suspected shit) H1 bulb broke during removal so I got a cheap BikeIt branded one from Halfords to replace it.

Fitted the H4 Orsam Nightbreaker on the high beam (or day-time running since I've dual headlight modified it) and the heat coming from the lamp was alarming. I'd not used since the day before, and it was the first time switching it on. I didn't really feel it would last long being constantly on (even what was in there before never got hot seconds after switching on). I may be wrong, but I er'd on the side of caution.

Fitted the LED I accidentally got sent to the high-beam and used it for the first time tonight on the return commute and by god what a difference... for the better!

The spread it provides on the road is ridiculously good and wide, and bright. I didn't get flashed (key point). The only downside is that the high beam is basically useless, or doesn't function. I found a link on Amazon of what this product looks like and the reviews for that say the same. I may try rotating it and seeing if that makes a difference, but it just emits a small amount of low additional light to the right. Its not that its aimed wrong, but rather there isn't really a switch between the two... so in a way perfect for what I want.

Providing it lasts I couldn't be happier for the moment.

I can finally see where I'm going in the dark. Very Happy
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MCN
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PostPosted: 22:39 - 15 Sep 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

NJD wrote:

I can finally see where I'm going in the dark. Very Happy


Thanks be to Jesus/Allah.

Hallelujah/Alhamdulillah.

Smile
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GettinBetter
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PostPosted: 14:09 - 27 Sep 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

IMO....Many/most cheap LED and HID bulbs are constructed so that the point of the light source can be seen when looking into the glass lense.

Decent lamps will have a steel shield built in or a black heat resistant cap on the top of the glass to prevent this happening. If the light source is allowed to exit the light assembly without being reflected in the right direction it causes dazzle because it eminates in the wrong direction.

I have solved this issue in the past by wrapping alluminium foil around the top of the lamp so that only the lower three quarters of the light source can exit towards the reflector, and hence guaranteeing the rays exiting in the correct direction. This created a very defined cutoff point, and lasted about a year. I removed them and went back to a good quality incandescent.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 19:03 - 27 Sep 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

GettinBetter wrote:
IMO....Many/most cheap LED and HID bulbs are constructed so that the point of the light source can be seen when looking into the glass lense.

Decent lamps will have a steel shield built in or a black heat resistant cap on the top of the glass to prevent this happening. If the light source is allowed to exit the light assembly without being reflected in the right direction it causes dazzle because it eminates in the wrong direction.

I have solved this issue in the past by wrapping alluminium foil around the top of the lamp so that only the lower three quarters of the light source can exit towards the reflector, and hence guaranteeing the rays exiting in the correct direction. This created a very defined cutoff point, and lasted about a year. I removed them and went back to a good quality incandescent.


That effect is not such an issue with those LED lamps as there is no light from the centre as the centre is the PCB that the LEDs are soldered into. Lights on each side of the board.
Incandescent lamps have a filament which emits light in every direction around the filament (except the ends). Thos lamps are fitted with a mask to prevent the light shining straight out (un-focussed).
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stirlinggaz
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PostPosted: 08:51 - 01 Oct 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi,
I've been fitting led "bulbs' in my bikes for years now & not had any issues at mot.
Used to rate osram nightbreakers I think they were called but got silly expensive & they don't do ba20s afaik.
It's not like I buy expensive branded ones either.
Maybe just been lucky.... replaced ba20 bulbs which are p*sh, 35w I think, for blue tinted ones & could actually see where I was going at last!

Same with the H4's I have now, leds but not blue obv.
Even the wee position lights are led with 4 leds on each very useful. Far brighter than the standard 5w bulbs fitted as standard.
Tail lights too but they have umpteen wee leds on each bulb.
Seriously tempted by those cheap Chinese HID kits but dunno about mot time.
op I'd try them but amazon are good at refunding & letting you keep items Wink

cheers,
GAZ
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rpsmith79
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PostPosted: 10:23 - 01 Oct 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

NJD wrote:
I'll soak in the above a bit more at another time but to update:

I contacted Amazon after posting last night (and the first response) and they issued a refund without the need to return the item.

Attempted to fit the H4 Orsam Nightbreakers (I ordered those and philips extreme to test either, and have spares) only to realise the manual is wrong and I have a H1 low beam and H4 on the high beam. Typically the old (suspected shit) H1 bulb broke during removal so I got a cheap BikeIt branded one from Halfords to replace it.

Fitted the H4 Orsam Nightbreaker on the high beam (or day-time running since I've dual headlight modified it) and the heat coming from the lamp was alarming. I'd not used since the day before, and it was the first time switching it on. I didn't really feel it would last long being constantly on (even what was in there before never got hot seconds after switching on). I may be wrong, but I er'd on the side of caution.

Fitted the LED I accidentally got sent to the high-beam and used it for the first time tonight on the return commute and by god what a difference... for the better!

The spread it provides on the road is ridiculously good and wide, and bright. I didn't get flashed (key point). The only downside is that the high beam is basically useless, or doesn't function. I found a link on Amazon of what this product looks like and the reviews for that say the same. I may try rotating it and seeing if that makes a difference, but it just emits a small amount of low additional light to the right. Its not that its aimed wrong, but rather there isn't really a switch between the two... so in a way perfect for what I want.

Providing it lasts I couldn't be happier for the moment.

I can finally see where I'm going in the dark. Very Happy


Hang on a moment, did i just read that right

You have converted your High Beam to a daytime running light Shocked , how are you not blinding everyone?

And then in the next sentence, you say your high beam isn't working, how can it not be working if you say you have that set up as your daytime running light Confused Confused
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NJD
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PostPosted: 12:34 - 01 Oct 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

rpsmith79 wrote:
Hang on a moment, did i just read that right

You have converted your High Beam to a daytime running light Shocked , how are you not blinding everyone?


I mean one tires at attempting to explain to those that don't understand when all the answers are above, but in the interest of having not very much to do today:

The standard set-up on the Fazer is a H1 bulb for low beam (left hand side sitting on bike), and H4 (a dual filament bulb designed for low/high beam -- right hand side sitting on bike) as the high beam. A standard halogen H1 bulb at night is woeful, and dangerous. Plenty of owners have tried, or stuck with, a dual head light modification that allows the H4 to power up, and run, at the same time as the H1 on the low beam setting therefore to create more light and to be able to see the road in the dark.

All the modification does is add a wire that connects to the spare spade terminal on the three prong H4 bulb and into a connector block and thus the H4 bulb powers on when low beam is selected via the right hand switchgear.

Its important to note that there is a difference between low and high beam on the H4 bulb. When you select hi-beam via the left hand switch gear toggle (as you do on any bike to switch between low and high beam) there is a cut off and the high beam takes over.

People have highlighted that the aim of the bulb would be the issue for blinding oncoming traffic and may need adjusting, but in my case -- for whatever reason -- it does not. I have ridden plenty in the dark and not been flashed, and have come across at least one police van that could have turned around but didn't (in a very slow setting, even waited to see if they would). Being an L.E.D bulb may help with this, but of that I cannot say for sure. In either case, and out of the box, the spread covers the road sufficiently for my purpose and the aim seems fine.

rpsmith79 wrote:
And then in the next sentence, you say your high beam isn't working, how can it not be working if you say you have that set up as your daytime running light Confused Confused


I cannot be sure what bulbs these are exactly as they were sent to me by mistake, but the closest I can find on Amazon (were they were ordered from.. the ones I expected and purchased originally) have plenty of reviews stating that there is little difference between high and low beam on these bulbs.

The halogen standard bulb I had in before had a more prominent high beam, and I've since noticed that these L.E.D bulbs do have a clear cut off / change from low to high but that its not exactly the best in the world.

~

In either case, despite much confusion by others, I would like to say that I have indeed absorbed and played attention to the comments regarding blinding others but have not yet found it to be the case. I would have pulled over and unplugged the wire on the first ride if it was the case and sought another solution to my problem.

I'd never run on the H1 alone again.

It may work because the L.E.D runs cooler than the halogen (or the Orsam I tried at least).
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rpsmith79
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PostPosted: 12:51 - 01 Oct 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I get ya, you have connected the low beam of your H4 bulb to the Low beam of the H1, so both bulbs light up at low power on low beam setting,

I thought you had connected the High beam to a daytime running light (as your post reads), as that would certainly blind people, unless that headlight is massively out of line

Are the LED ones you recieved definitely H4, or are they HB4's, in which case they would only be a single filament type bulb
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NJD
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PostPosted: 13:24 - 01 Oct 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

rpsmith79 wrote:
Are the LED ones you recieved definitely H4, or are they HB4's, in which case they would only be a single filament type bulb


H4, yes. Ones you mention have different design / plug (based on quick Google). See right hand one in first picture for the difference in placement of the yellow part for hi/low beam. Both bulbs are the same, was just reluctant to open or touch (based on possible damage) at first post.
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