Resend my activation email : Register : Log in 
BCF: Bike Chat Forums


(Car) radiator fan always on (solved: just need to fix it)

Reply to topic
Bike Chat Forums Index -> The Workshop
View previous topic : View next topic  
Author Message

DrDonnyBrago
World Chat Champion



Joined: 03 Jan 2010
Karma :

PostPosted: 13:09 - 14 Jul 2010    Post subject: (Car) radiator fan always on (solved: just need to fix it) Reply with quote

Hi,

The radiator fan on my car (1997 2.0 GSD toyota corolla) is always running - from the second I turn on the ignition...

I have checked the relay with a multimeter and a wee 12v power source and all is well as far as I can tell. What should I check next? I assume there is a temperature sending unit or something, where would this be located and how do I check it?

Cheers in advance.


Last edited by DrDonnyBrago on 12:06 - 16 Jul 2010; edited 1 time in total
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

stonesie
World Chat Champion



Joined: 04 Jul 2010
Karma :

PostPosted: 13:16 - 14 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you have the AirCon switched on then it will run the fans to keep the condenser chilled Thumbs Up
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

Casper
World Chat Champion



Joined: 12 Jul 2010
Karma :

PostPosted: 13:28 - 14 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Temp sender should be on the side of the rad on the inside.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

Odie
World Chat Champion



Joined: 24 Jul 2004
Karma :

PostPosted: 14:00 - 14 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

is it causing any problems?
if it aint, leave it alone.
____________________
You are so ugly when you were born the doctor said "I?m gonna drop it, if it falls is a rat, if it flies is a bat."
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

Casper
World Chat Champion



Joined: 12 Jul 2010
Karma :

PostPosted: 14:05 - 14 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Now i think about it. I had an old Datsun and the fan was on all the time it just spun faster when needed. Could this not be the same set up?
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

DrDonnyBrago
World Chat Champion



Joined: 03 Jan 2010
Karma :

PostPosted: 14:18 - 14 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've had the car for a few years, it started doing this about 3 months ago but I haven't got round to having a proper play with it yet.

Not too concerned in summer where it may appreciate the extra cooling but I don't really want it doing it all through winter as the engine will take ages to warm up etc etc.

I'll try and find the temp sender later Thumbs Up .

Oh and it doesn't have A/C.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

stonesie
World Chat Champion



Joined: 04 Jul 2010
Karma :

PostPosted: 14:44 - 14 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.corolland.com/repairs.html

Have a look at that, the temp sensor should be on the side of the cylinder head above the gearbox, the most simple test i can think of is to simply un-plug it with the fan running, if the fan keeps running then its most probably the relay, if not then a new sensor is worth a try.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

WD Forte
World Chat Champion



Joined: 17 Jun 2010
Karma :

PostPosted: 23:00 - 15 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ditto the 'disconnect the rad switch' idea
As they are either On or Off, rad/fan temp sensors are often bimetal switch affairs and the contacts have been known to fuse together.
Engine temp sensors are commonly NTC resistors whose resistance drops as they heat up and dont suffer the same way.
Rad/fan switches are often attached to the rad body or a main hose.
Dont confuse it with the temp gauge sender.

Dont have a WD for the car but typically, when the switch gets to a certain temp the bimetal strip distorts and closes the contacts
this in turn gives the relay coil an earth path which actuates the relay
and runs the fan.

With the connector opened you can emulate the switch by shorting the two wires together and see if it operates the fan
If it does, you know the rad switch is faulty
If it doesnt
Its possible but less common for the relay contacts to fuse together
but a continuity test on the power contacts will tell you if thats happened.

the above is what you often find, it may have a much more complex system for all lI know
I havent had a car in years I either ride bikes or drive scabby
diesel transits Very Happy Very Happy
HTH
____________________
bikers smell of wee
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

DrDonnyBrago
World Chat Champion



Joined: 03 Jan 2010
Karma :

PostPosted: 07:34 - 16 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:
Ditto the 'disconnect the rad switch' idea
As they are either On or Off, rad/fan temp sensors are often bimetal switch affairs and the contacts have been known to fuse together.
Engine temp sensors are commonly NTC resistors whose resistance drops as they heat up and dont suffer the same way.
Rad/fan switches are often attached to the rad body or a main hose.
Dont confuse it with the temp gauge sender.

Dont have a WD for the car but typically, when the switch gets to a certain temp the bimetal strip distorts and closes the contacts
this in turn gives the relay coil an earth path which actuates the relay
and runs the fan.

With the connector opened you can emulate the switch by shorting the two wires together and see if it operates the fan
If it does, you know the rad switch is faulty
If it doesnt
Its possible but less common for the relay contacts to fuse together
but a continuity test on the power contacts will tell you if thats happened.

the above is what you often find, it may have a much more complex system for all lI know
I havent had a car in years I either ride bikes or drive scabby
diesel transits Very Happy Very Happy
HTH



Thanks, I'll try that Thumbs Up.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

DrDonnyBrago
World Chat Champion



Joined: 03 Jan 2010
Karma :

PostPosted: 12:04 - 16 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorted (almost) - there is a hose leading from the top of the coolant overflow reservoir that appears to have been dripping down onto the thermoswitch and part of the radiator. The fins in contact with the coolant have basically dissolved and are flaking away whilst the wires leading to the thermoswitch have corroded, one has broken off completely.

I didn't even think coolant was corrosive Neutral . Presumably the hose that has been dripping is supposed to be an air vent? must have a blockage somewhere to cause the coolant to come out of there rather than return to the reservoir.

Anyway looks like I need to wire a new connector in, I have attached some pics - anyone know what these things are called so I can source a replacement, or is it likely to be a toyota jobby? Actually, can they just be pulled apart and reused?


Thanks Thumbs Up .

https://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af271/DonnyBrago/DSC06150.jpg

https://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af271/DonnyBrago/DSC06149.jpg

https://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af271/DonnyBrago/DSC06148.jpg

https://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af271/DonnyBrago/DSC06147.jpg

https://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af271/DonnyBrago/DSC06146.jpg
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

swampy
World Chat Champion



Joined: 04 Aug 2004
Karma :

PostPosted: 16:08 - 16 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a similar problem once on a Renault Espace. The thing you have there is a plug connector, may well only be Toyota only. I cut the plug off on the renault,and then crimped two teeny female (well three in the Renaults case) spade conectors onto the wires, then pushed these onto the pins on the fan switch. Add a bit of insulation tape and voila, all was well...... Thumbs Up
____________________
"I hate to advocate drugs, alcohol, violence or insanity to anyone, but they've always worked for me." Hunter S Thompson
"Faster, faster, faster, until the thrill of speed overcomes the fear of death..." Hunter S Thompson
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

WD Forte
World Chat Champion



Joined: 17 Jun 2010
Karma :

PostPosted: 21:28 - 16 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

The blade connector idea is deffo worth a try, some smaller speaker terminal size ones (4mm) may do it
you dont HAVE to use the funny shaped connector, you just need good reliable contacts

The connector is an unusual shape.
Toyota might sell them and the terminals. (maybe)
it may be common to jap cars.
Or
Its possibly fixable
During assembly the wires are crimped on the cable ends and the terminals
pushed into the connector until they latch.
It may be possible to use a small thin probe to unlatch and withdraw the terminal
if so, you could clean out the remnant, then solder a new bit of cable on and fix it to the existing wire
and re-latch it.
Done this myself on odd, or hard to get connectors.
Or
A Breakers may let you hack off the connector and cable from a scrapper and you could patch that in

personally I'd try the blade terminal idea meself for speed and
cheapness

I assume the fan does not come on with ignition now?
It shouldnt, I'm slightly puzzled how a broken cable made the fan run all the time.
____________________
bikers smell of wee
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

finpos
World Chat Champion



Joined: 13 Sep 2005
Karma :

PostPosted: 23:56 - 16 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can usually push the pin back out of the connector. Look carefully how it plugs onto the pins on the radiator, they will go either above or below the metal bit you can see at the end of the plug. You need to push a very thin screwdriver into THE OTHER SIDE of where those pins go. You are trying to release a tiny tab that digs into the plastic. You can then solder the wire back onto the pin and push it back in. Solder it very carefully, if you put a huge blob on there it'll never go back in the hole.

If all else fails, Just push the pin as hard as you can backwards out of the connector. You will bend said tab doing this, but you should be able to fix it back into place.

f.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

DrDonnyBrago
World Chat Champion



Joined: 03 Jan 2010
Karma :

PostPosted: 19:11 - 18 Jul 2010    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers for the suggestions, will have a hack soon. I should be able to figure something out. Thanks all Thumbs Up .

WD Forte wrote:

I assume the fan does not come on with ignition now?
It shouldnt, I'm slightly puzzled how a broken cable made the fan run all the time.


It comes on all the time, I'm guessing it's some sort of safety mechanism - better to always be on than always off. Guessing when cold the thermoswitch is closed and a relay is held open, breaking the wires would leave the relay closed and the fan on.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts
Old Thread Alert!

There is a gap of 10 years, 90 days between these two posts...

DannoXYZ
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 10 Oct 2011
Karma :

PostPosted: 22:00 - 13 Oct 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

stonesie wrote:
https://www.corolland.com/repairs.html

Have a look at that, the temp sensor should be on the side of the cylinder head above the gearbox, the most simple test i can think of is to simply un-plug it with the fan running, if the fan keeps running then its most probably the relay, if not then a new sensor is worth a try.


WD Forte wrote:
Ditto the 'disconnect the rad switch' idea
As they are either On or Off, rad/fan temp sensors are often bimetal switch affairs and the contacts have been known to fuse together.
Engine temp sensors are commonly NTC resistors whose resistance drops as they heat up and dont suffer the same way.
Rad/fan switches are often attached to the rad body or a main hose.
Dont confuse it with the temp gauge sender.

Dont have a WD for the car but typically, when the switch gets to a certain temp the bimetal strip distorts and closes the contacts
this in turn gives the relay coil an earth path which actuates the relay
and runs the fan.


With the connector opened you can emulate the switch by shorting the two wires together and see if it operates the fan
If it does, you know the rad switch is faulty
If it doesnt
Its possible but less common for the relay contacts to fuse together
but a continuity test on the power contacts will tell you if thats happened.

the above is what you often find, it may have a much more complex system for all lI know
I havent had a car in years I either ride bikes or drive scabby
diesel transits Very Happy Very Happy
HTH
Nope, the opposite. I found this post from searching for "Corolla cooling fan" and will clarify for others who may find it as well.

First, temp-sensor by thermostat near head only drives gauge on dash, has nothing to do with cooling fan.

Second, fan thermoswitch on radiator is just that, an on/off switch based upon coolant-temperature.

However, it operates opposite of what one would assume. Toyota's very sophisticated, and has additional safety features we're not used to on bikes. So...

NORMAL = OFF = fan thermoswitch circuit is closed and grounded. This actually turns OFF relay powering fan.

HEATED = ON = fan-thermoswitch circuit is open, not-grounded. This turns ON relay that powers fan

It's a safety feature such that if fan-wiring is cut, or unplugged from thermoswitch, or thermoswitch has failed like this instance, that fan would turn ON to keep engine from possibly overheating.


DrDonnyBrago wrote:
Cheers for the suggestions, will have a hack soon. I should be able to figure something out. Thanks all Thumbs Up .

WD Forte wrote:

I assume the fan does not come on with ignition now?
It shouldnt, I'm slightly puzzled how a broken cable made the fan run all the time.


It comes on all the time, I'm guessing it's some sort of safety mechanism - better to always be on than always off. Guessing when cold the thermoswitch is closed and a relay is held open, breaking the wires would leave the relay closed and the fan on.


Yup, as you've discovered, fan-thermoswitch circuit works in opposite way as one would think for safety. Disconnecting plug from thermoswitch, or cutting its wire or having a terminal corrode away would OPEN circuit and turn fan ON. Engenious safety design really. Smile

I blew headgasket on my VF500F many years ago because of this exact issue. one of terminals on thermoswitch had broken away and never activated fan when bike overheated in stop-and-go traffic. If it was wired as Toyota had done, at least fan would've come on full-time and kept engine cool. And it would also signal that something's wrong with system, time to take look.
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts

Nobby the Bastard
Harley Gaydar



Joined: 16 Aug 2013
Karma :

PostPosted: 07:38 - 14 Oct 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fuck me ragged. One post in 2011 and one post in 2020. That's a very long game...
____________________
trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Triumph Sprint ST 1050
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts

arry
Super Spammer



Joined: 03 Jan 2009
Karma :

PostPosted: 08:01 - 14 Oct 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Fuck me ragged. One post in 2011 and one post in 2020. That's a very long game...


I was just about to hit the spam button when I spotted the join date and the fact the post was actually helpful - well, wasn't a spambot.

The back story on this one should be interesting....
 Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail You must be logged in to rate posts
Old Thread Alert!

The last post was made 5 years, 97 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
  Display posts from previous:   
This page may contain affiliate links, which means we may earn a small commission if a visitor clicks through and makes a purchase. By clicking on an affiliate link, you accept that third-party cookies will be set.

Post new topic   Reply to topic    Bike Chat Forums Index -> The Workshop All times are GMT
Page 1 of 1

 
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You cannot attach files in this forum
You cannot download files in this forum

Read the Terms of Use! - Powered by phpBB © phpBB Group
 

Debug Mode: ON - Server: birks (www) - Page Generation Time: 0.13 Sec - Server Load: 0.32 - MySQL Queries: 14 - Page Size: 102.03 Kb