How to repair stairs?

[BigTim]

Edited to add pics


Does anyone have ideas for repairing normal wooden stairs in a house?

I asked a carpenter to have a look but he busy and i don't know when he will get here.

Got about 6 with damage, the step split in the centre and/or the nose of the step is cracked or splitting off.

These are the original stairs so around a 100 years old.

I want to carpet over them but want to make good first.

My thoughts are.

Screw and glue another board over the split steps. 10mm plywood?

Underneath the broken noses glue and screw the biggest batten that will fit.

as pics show have bodged repairs in past by nailing it back but not good enough.
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[Riejufixing]

[BigTim]

possibly could access underneath as cellar steps below, would have to pull down some old lath and plaster work to access it though
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[Freddyfruitba...]

Stairs are buggers to repair properly IME... given that you're carpeting over, I'd just go with the plan to screw a plywood plate to the top of each treat (ie the same size as each full tread). You'd need to do it to every step, ie not just the knackered ones, otherwise the risers will be uneven height
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[grr666]

Personally, I'd gripfill or woodglue the new treads on and then screw them down as well. Should eliminate some creaking
and will be a much stronger fix, it is a high traffic area after all. I'd use an 8x4 sheet of 12mm construction grade WBP ply
to make a full set of treads for those badboys.
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[Polarbear]

It's a real pity they are in a bad state, they would look lovely sanded back and treated.

I suppose if you are carpeting just put a board on each step as said.

Me, I'd call the Repair Shop and see if the wood wizard on there could sort them out.
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[Diggs]

[A100man]

Hmm, they don't look all that bad. I wonder if you could drill and fit dowels through the front of those with broken split noses (after removing all the shitty nails which caused the splits. Lashings of wood glue plus some screw to cramp it all up.
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[dynax]

Sand them back try and remove the offending nails or sink them below the surface, the bullnose on the worst can be removed and replaced as suggested with dowels, the rest of the cracks and splits use an epoxy resin but do it in small amounts and let it build up in layers allowing to cure, using a 5 minute epoxy will be adequate but don't use too much in one go if the splits go right through you will need time for it to seal, if the splits are really big use an epoxy putty made from resin and sawdust, this method is used in the stitch and glue method of plywood boat building and it is very strong you just need to get the right consistency
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[Tankie]

Normally these cases are put together with wedges on the underside of the treads, so from the underneath remove the wedges, normally they are held in by friction .
They were originally built from the bottom towards the top , so to get in you might have to sacrifice / smash out one tread towards the top
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[Riejufixing]

Well, they don't look too bad. It seems that someone has previously tried to stop creaks by driving in some oval brads through the treads into the risers, which is not a good idea, and they have split. Use a nail puller to get them out, like the Faithfull 2' one, which is a good tool.

If toy want to trouble to expose the underneath of the stairs, then you could see what the general condition of the stairs is, properly cure any creaks by re-glueing the blocks, looking at the wedges, even replacing entire treads if need be, apply woodworm fluid or whatever, use plasterboard to re-finish.

If you want to deal with splits in the middle of the treads, I'd probably use something like Titebond hide glue, it runs in really well, and inject it as far as possible into the cracks, and do NOT use those stairs for at least 24 hours. Again, getting at the underside would be good to apply a patch.

For the tread noses, drill pilot holes appropriately, countersink and use old-fashioned shanked woodscrews in addition to glue in the split, do them up with a screwdriver until just tight, you don't need to drive the heads through the timber, which is easy to do with a power driver.

[kramdra]

I would pull the boards and fit new and not carpet after.