Help with wiring

[Nagasaki24]

After my bike tried to melt its self I am trying to get it working again.

I can not for the life of me find an ignition that matches the one that come off the bike. There is always some difference.

The "generic" bike/atv ignition i got is the same 6 wires but in a 9 pin connecter. My thinking was I could swap the connectors over but with out knowing what pin is what I have blown the fuse on the bike. Knew that was gonna happen so I have spares.

Looking at this image:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/88YQyMkDqKD8GVWQ9

does anyone have an idea what wires need to be connected to get the lights, indicators etc working?

The engine actually starts via the kick with no ignition connected.

I am trying to find a wiring diagram for this pos (wuyang wy125-12a)

UPDATE:

I managed to find the 2 wires I needed connected at the ignition to get the lights on. But while connecting everything back up, I connected a brown wire with a white stripe to where I thought I went, to the side light bulb in the headlight. This was the only wire left not connected.

The very second I plugged it in the electrics died. Up to this point the bike would start with the electric start, horn and indicators worked but no rear/front light working but the dash lights where also working.

After connecting this brown wire and it all died the dash lights still work. The only b/w wire I can trace down the loom goes into a connecter under the seat/tank and goes down into the engine.

Any educated guesses as to what a wire going from the engine up to the headlight and ending in a bullet connector is?

I know its not the neutral light or gear select display, those are different wires.
____________________
Yamaha SR-125

[Robby]

If you have the original ignition barrel and a multimeter, you should be able to deduce what the various wires going into the ignition do. Set the multimeter to continuity (annoying beep when it makes a circuit), test wires with the key in various positions. Take notes as you go.

Being able to kick start the bike with the ignition disconnected is normal. One of the functions of the ignition switch is to ground the ignition circuit. If you disconnect the ground, the circuit is live.

So, some multimeter work required on both sides of the plug to work out what does what. It gets easier as you identify/eliminate more wires.

For a guess at the functions for 6 wires, I would say:
1. Earth. Probably a thickish wire.
2. Main switched live. Also probably a thickish wire.
3. AC (alternating current) live, assuming it runs an AC headlight.
4. Possibly separate earth for AC to keep it in one self-contained circuit.
5. Sidelight.
6. Odd stuff like a gear indicator.

I'm also assuming the wire going from engine to headlight is an AC feed for the headlight. If the headlight only comes on when the engine is running, you probably have an AC headlight.

[Nagasaki24]

[oilyrag]

Google Lexmoto 125 AC wiring diagram. The colours in your picture seem to match the ignition switch in that diagram. The colours being the same doesn't really mean anything but I wouldn't be surprised if your bike is using the same electrics as a Lexmoto. In that diagram when the key is on it connects Red to Black and Brown to Brown/White. Everything should work. When you want to kill the engine connect Green to White/Black. If the fuse is blowing when you connect the Brown/White wire there is probably a short on that wire.

[Nagasaki24]

[oilyrag]

Have you got a multimeter? What colour wires are at the side light bulb?

[Nagasaki24]

[steve the grease]

[Nagasaki24]

I also have a "flash" button for the headlight. Something I forgot to mention is the lights still do not work either, before I dun goofed it all.

The indicators, horn and even brake light worked fine but not the rear light and headlight. I also noticed that when switching the lights between off, on and side the lights on my dash did not go off when in the off position. Not sure if thats due to some damage when it all melted its self (see my other thread in workshop)

Headlight/rear did not come on even with engine running.

But the lighting must be DC as it works when the engine is off and powered via the battery.
____________________
Yamaha SR-125

[oilyrag]

I'd see it as Green is ground. Blue is 12V for main beam. White is 12V for dip beam. Brown is 12V for the side light. Someone's spliced the dip and side light together. Probably to get around a problem. I could be wrong but that lexmoto wiring diagram still looks basically right to me. Just someone has modified your loom and you also probably have a short. I think your bike is AC CDI ignition with DC lighting. So your stator has two sets of coils. One is for generating the AC going to the CDI for spark. And the other set of coils goes to a regulator rectifier, that converters the AC to DC which charges a battery and all the lighting, horn, starter motor are power off the battery. That's why you can kick start it. The only thing the ignition key does in that type of system is kill the spark by grounding the CDI.

I think going by that Lexmoto diagram. At the ignition switch, red is 12V from the battery. When the ignition is on red joins to black. Black goes to right handlebar switch. Black always joins to brown in the right handle bar switch even when the switch is in the off position. Brown then goes back to the ignition switch. Brown joins to brown/white when the ignition switch is on. Brown/white then goes to the tail light and side light. All of that means that the tail light and side light are always on when the key is on.

If you then turn the right handle bar switch to the on position, it joins White/Black to the already joined brown and black. White/Black now has 12V. The white/black goes to the left handlebar switch. When you put the left handlebar switch to low beam the white/black joins to white. That gives dip beam. When you switch the left handlebar to high beam white/black joins to Black on the diagram which is blue in your case to give main beam.

I think your Brown/White wire has shorted to ground so it was blowing fuses so someone disconnected the brown/white from the circuit and spliced the side light into the low beam so that the side light and tail light could still get power with the brown/white disconnected.

I'm saying that all based on the Lexmoto diagram. Does what I said agree with how the right and left handlebar switches look and work? Does the right handlebar switch control lights on/off? Does the left handlebar switch control dip beam/main beam? If not you can forget all what I said.

[Nagasaki24]

[oilyrag]

The only thing that can cut all power to everything is a blown main fuse. If the brown/white is shorted to ground and you connected 12V to it you would have blown a fuse. If the lexmoto diagram is correct for your bike that brown/white goes to the tail light, side light and instrument light. If it's going into the stator the lexmoto diagram might not be right. You will probably have take the cover off and see if the brown/white goes there. It shouldn't be a big deal to do that. If the lexmoto diagram isn't right and you have no multimeter to check for continuity you're pissing in the wind. Can you still kick start it?

[Robby]

Oilyrag appears to have this nailed. It also looks like the wires are following standard Honda colours, at least the standard they used in the 80s and 90s.

Multimeter is necessary. You're not just working out how it should be put together, you're also working out what bodges exist and either fixing them or working around them.

Sometimes a wire just goes nowhere, straight from the factory. Usually if a loom (or sub-loom) was used for multiple models/variants and could be used to power something your bike doesn't have. Sometimes you will also find redundant earths, quite common on rear light clusters where you still want the brake light to work if one earth wire fails.

[Nagasaki24]

Thank for the help here guys but it seems you are missing my point here.

There is a Brown/white wire it comes from the engine with all the wires that deal with gears, magneto etc, and goes to the front of the bike in the back of the headlight.

I connected the side light wire to this by mistake and it sent 12v down it and KILLED something. The main fuse was blown and replaced. The dash lights still come on but everything else died when I connected that wire...

WHAT IS THIS BROWN/WHITE WIRE GOING TO INSIDE THE ENGINE?

In caps for emphasis!

I was on my way to fixing this bike until I did this.
____________________
Yamaha SR-125

[oilyrag]

People are going out of their way to help you for free so keep the caps lock turned off. If you read what I wrote I've told you what I think the brown/white wire is based on the lexmoto diagram. Read it again if you don't understand. I would suggest you try lightly pulling on the brown/white wire to see if it is actually attached to anything or like I said has it been cut out of the circuit because of a short and someone spliced the side light and dip together so that the tail light and side light still had power. If the brown/white is attached like I already said you will have to take the cover off and look where it's going because you don't have a wiring diagram or a multimeter.

[Nagasaki24]

[Robby]

It would be useful to have a link to the nearest wiring diagram in the thread to have something to refer to.

A wire going from engine to headlight without going through any switches or relays doesn't make sense to me. Could be for AC headlight if it doesn't have an on/off switch, or if it's switched on the earth side (which would be unusual).