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Ducati Monster 900 restoration

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buzzer1955
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PostPosted: 10:53 - 12 Nov 2020    Post subject: Ducati Monster 900 restoration Reply with quote

Thought I would start a new thread... It's been a very strange year... I normally build something over winter, but this year I have been busy on my last build all spring and summer, and that is finished and at the back of the garage ready for spring.

So I have started a rebuild on a 1998 Monster 900, a bike I have always wanted to own. I like the looks, and simplicity of them, and they handle great! this will be a straight restoration and I will be keeping it looking the same save for it being red and probably gold frame and wheels. I started the stripdown yeasterday...

https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/09/ducati-monster-900-restoration-1.jpg
https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/11/nov-12-1-copy.jpg
https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/11/nov-12-2-copy.jpg
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arry
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PostPosted: 11:44 - 12 Nov 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool Thumbs Up

Look forward to progress with interest.
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Keithy
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PostPosted: 12:20 - 14 Nov 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Love that garage.
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buzzer1955
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PostPosted: 13:53 - 14 Nov 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

The stripdown continues… so far just one slight hitch… a broken bolt in the swinging arm… soon drilled and tapped out though... I bought a set of cobalt drills last year, they are brilliant for this sort of thing. wish I had bought them years ago!

https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/11/strip-down-copy.jpg

https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/11/tap-in-swinging-arm-copy.jpg
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P.
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PostPosted: 22:07 - 14 Nov 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another one! Laughing Love these builds.
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buzzer1955
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PostPosted: 17:15 - 15 Nov 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tried to remove the cush rubbers today as I am going to have the wheels powder coated... the rubbers were good, so I didn't want to destroy them. You can't knock them out as the drift just bounces off the rubber, and there is no way to get to the outer sleeve... So I made this puller, that has a split threaded cotter. its a bit fiddly, but they came out a treat, and I can re use them now


https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/11/cush-drive.jpg
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buzzer1955
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PostPosted: 11:10 - 16 Nov 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just preparing the frame and parts to take to the powder coaters... On the grab handle there were two small dents that I just know that if I left them they would bug me forever, so I TIG brazed them up and filed them down. there is something really satisfying about TIG brazing!

https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/11/dent-in-frame.jpg
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arry
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PostPosted: 11:30 - 16 Nov 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Top work Cool Sounds like you're going to town Thumbs Up
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buzzer1955
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PostPosted: 14:30 - 16 Nov 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

arry wrote:
Top work Cool Sounds like you're going to town Thumbs Up


thanks! I always enjoy a bike build... I want this to be a good one and its a bike I always wanted...

Looks like the engine has never been worked on, apart from someone has removed the alternator cover and put it back on with what could best be described as glue! normally they come off with a tap, but in this case I had to resort to a puller…


https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/11/alternator-cover-puller.jpg
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buzzer1955
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PostPosted: 17:35 - 18 Nov 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

the engine is all apart, and I am pleased with its condition... no bore wear, and everything look good. the main reason to take it apart is to bead blast the cases... which of course means a complete strip. I am glad I did it anyway as people have pointed out the crank plugs come loose which damages the cases. While this one was not loose, it was not tight either can came out with a gentle twist of the screw driver... disaster waiting to happen! its locktited in place now...

https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/11/crank-plug-copy.jpg


[img]I hate bashing bearings out,and where possible try to make a puller of some sort… in the case of the swinging arm bearings it’s easy, just a stepped bush (it does destroy the inner seal..) and out they come. the step needs to clear the circlip though… some of the engine bearings are more difficult as you can’t get to the back… for this I made an expandable stepped puller, that expands into the bearing as a bolt rides up an internal taper. with this they come out easy…[/img]

https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/11/bwaring-removal-3-copy.jpg

https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/11/bearing-removal-2-copy.jpg

To get the bearings out I also heat the cases… I would like to use the oven as its a more even heat… but I can’t for two reasons.. the first is the cases are too big… and secondly she gets upset, particularly as its a new oven! So over the halogen heater it is… keeping an eye on the temperature… I also like to mark EVERYTHING, so it can go back where it came from, and in the same position. I am not keen on centre pops, instead I use a little diamond burr in the dremel… this will even mark bearings and means you can number stuff as well, and it does not cause stress raisers…

https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/11/bearing-removal-1-copy.jpg

Of course parting the cases means the primary gear has to come off… and they are VERY tight… you can forget anything but a really robust puller. here is one I mad a few years ago. with this it came off easily.

https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2018/01/puller-11.jpg

The frame and wheels have gone to the powder coaters...
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Fisty
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PostPosted: 18:33 - 18 Nov 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I like this thread and like your style.
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buzzer1955
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PostPosted: 19:33 - 21 Nov 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

here are the carbs, they are in remarkably good condition! I had some genuine new floats and needles so I used those in the build. I did bead blast the outsides, taking care to use silicone bungs in all the holes… they came out a treat!

https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/11/carbs-1-copy.jpg
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buzzer1955
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PostPosted: 18:24 - 24 Nov 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

while the engine and frame are away I have turned my attention to overhauling the front forks… they were not leaking but I thought I would treat them to some new seals and dust covers…. looks like someone has recently changed just one side by the state of the oil...

https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/11/50641964062_f1219741b7_o-1.jpg
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buzzer1955
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PostPosted: 19:09 - 25 Nov 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

the engine cases are back from the vapour blasters… what a superb job! attention to detail is what its all about and they came back prefect… I will definitly use this guy again… the finish is as good as I have ever seen… https://spvapourblasting.co.uk/ I know these cases are painted from original but the pain always flakes off, so I have decided to leave them bear, and use ACF 50 on them to keep them looking nice… this will probably be a low miles, fair weather bike for me…

the engine build begins… I got the cases nice and hot and pressed the bearings in, and then checked the crank and gearbox shafts end float as I wont be using a gasket as Ducati have now discontinued them and use Threebond in place … I had already ordered a few shims by measuring the old gasket (14 thou) and taking that off the shims that are in there… when the shims come in a few days I will build it properly…


https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/11/cases-5.jpg


https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/11/cases-4-copy.jpg
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buzzer1955
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PostPosted: 18:44 - 28 Nov 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

todays job has been cleaning out the oilways in the barrels after being vapour blasted... To do this properly and get every last bead of media out I removed and replaced the core plugs... they are cheap to buy. There was a surprising amount of crud behind them... Made a couple of stepped punches so I could drift them in nice and square.

Checked the bores for wear, there simply isn't any! Ground the valves in with some fine paste (how old is that tin of grinding paste 😅) and checked I had a continuous seal with a sharpie pen. Gave the guides a quick clean with the burnishing hone which just removes carbon,

Finally, a good wash in petrol the tray and a check in the bottom for any blasting media. My mate who builds automatic gearboxes gave me the tip on the stainless steel trays... you really can see any debris in the bottom!

https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/11/head-and-barrel-colarge.jpg
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buzzer1955
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PostPosted: 19:37 - 30 Nov 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Waiting for the engine spares at the moment, so filled some time doing some bead blasting on bits and pieces… one of the best bits of kit I have is a blast cabinet… It used to live outside at the back of the garage because I could never seal it from escaping media as obviously the air tries to inflate the cabinet… with machines about abrasive dust is a no no… Then I hit on the idea of a centrifugal type filter, which offers no resistance to the air going through it. I made the filter out of an Ikea plastic box and some sink drain pipe, it vents outside…. the principle is as the air is made to twist and turn, the partials of dust and media centrifuge out and drop to the bottom of the chambers… so the first chamber gets the most, the second less and so on. there is hardly anything on the drive and nothing in the workshop. its difficult to get this level of restoration to a part without it… Bead also gives that nice sheen to alloy parts and they don’t pick up dirty finger prints. its very good at resisting oxidation as well, particularly with a coat of ACF-50… here is the fuel tap.

I used to make a BIG mistake with bead blasting… I could never get a really nice finish except with brand new media… I moaned at the supplier once and he asked me what pressure I blasted at… high as I can I told him.. there is your problem then! you are shattering the glass beads and turning them into sharp dust, hence you get a dull surface! So I went home, filled my cabinet with new bead and got my wife to turn up the pressure as I cleaned a part… soon as it went shiny, that was the best pressure!

https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/11/50665840162_409233c074_o.jpg

here is the difference old bead high pressure, new bead low pressure!

https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2017/12/bead-blast-comparrison.jpg

here is a before and after on some weber carbs I rebuilt...

https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/dcoe-carb-before.jpg

https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/dcoe-carb-after.jpg

here is how the filter works

https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2019/12/blast-cabinet-filter.jpg
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buzzer1955
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PostPosted: 10:33 - 03 Dec 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

50 years ago I was an apprentice to the best mechanic I have ever known…Gerry Lampit. He is 89 now and I still visit him… he is still sharp as a razor … He taught me that the hammer was the last resort… that’s always stayed with me. So when I needed to change the swinging arm bearings his words rang in my head

https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/swinging-arm-bearing.jpg

Parts have arrived from Moto Rapido. What a pleasure it is to deal with Craig and Luke, they are SO helpful and knowledgeable! after years of suffering the ignorant local dealer, these guys are the best!

https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/parts-copy-1.jpg

The engine rebuild has started… the cases are together, crank and gearbox shafts shimmed, and I spent a couple of hours making a flywheel holding tool. it worked rather well. Don’t ask me why the hell I welded the bar right across it, had to cut it to get the socket on! senior moment!

https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/side-engine-copy.jpg

https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/clutch-tool-copy.jpg
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buzzer1955
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PostPosted: 11:51 - 06 Dec 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

the rebuild of the heads is going well… some of the clearances are out though, not surprising as I gave the valves a bit of a grind in and replaced the half rings. I have a little spreadsheet that I put the values in, which calculates everything from there, and also mirrors the measurements in MM rather than the thous I prefer to work in. Old school I know!

Been doing the plating on and off, its time consuming, but I put parts in the bucket, set the timer so I don’t forget, and the magic happens… just a few parts to go…

frame and wheels are back from the powder coater, and its another superb job….

https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/heads-copy.jpg

https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/vaalve-clearances-copy.jpg

https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/plating-copy.jpg

https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/0diy-plating-3.jpg

https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/powder-coating-copy.jpg
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buzzer1955
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PostPosted: 11:07 - 08 Dec 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

one of the things that has been niggling me is the engine oil pipes and oil cooler lines are badly corroded on the ends… replacements, even aftermarket are a fortune… So I decided to try and plate them… they actually came out rather well!

https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/plating-tank.jpg

https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/50691797383_5ae7e23748_o.jpg
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buzzer1955
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PostPosted: 19:30 - 08 Dec 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some bolts I just tighten… but critical components I always use a torque wrench… in the past I have used a long series a spanner and calculated the pull I need on a spring balance… but for some reason I could not get the spanner on I have used in the past and its part of an expensive set, so I didn’t want to modify it by grinding… , so had to make a tool… I knew that old spanner and socket would come in one day!

One tip I picked up years ago when I used to build Crossflow race engines was always mark the head nuts/bolts after the first stage torque. I would paint an arrow on them with tippex... then move on to the second stage torque, and then the final stage. then I would check all the arrows were facing the same direction, and if any weren't, I would give them an extra tweak until they did. the rational for this is that it takes much of the varying nut/bolt/washer friction out of the equation and you get an even clamping force.

Of course that's exactly what you do in effect on modern engines, but now in a more refined way with an angle gauge... on a BMW engine I recently worked on the bolts were torqued to 40 NM, then 90 degrees, then another 90... I still put arrows on them! the reason for that is its all to easy to get confused as they need to be puled down in sequence, and there are 20 bolts! its all too easy to forget where you are... and its not like a torque wrench where you give it a click to check! All too easy to give a bolt 90, 90 and another 90, at which point it pings!

https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/cylinder-head-tool-copy.jpg
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buzzer1955
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PostPosted: 14:44 - 09 Dec 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

When people ask me why Ducati bikes are expensive to maintain… I say try doing the valve clearances and adjusting them to the correct specification… its a fiddly job on the bench, let alone in the frame! and this is just the 2V!

https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/heads-4.jpg
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buzzer1955
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PostPosted: 18:54 - 10 Dec 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

more or less finished the engine build, and also added some of the plated parts to the carbs, they have come up really well..

https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/carbs-1.jpg

https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/engine-copy.jpg
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struan80
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PostPosted: 19:10 - 10 Dec 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great job you are doing. Talented engineer.
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ThunderGuts
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PostPosted: 16:32 - 11 Dec 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wish I had the time, tools and skills to do something like this (not missing much am I?). I manage basic restorations occasionally, but infrequent. Reading through the post and looking at the pictures is strangely satisfying. Looking forwards to seeing more updates. Thumbs Up
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P.
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PostPosted: 01:17 - 12 Dec 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you do more other than just Ducati, or is it because of the familiarity?
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