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Johnnythefox
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PostPosted: 17:34 - 20 Dec 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

hellkat wrote:
My sportster is very low slung, the profile under a rain cover is no bigger than a moped.

But I guess you have to be a certain kind of person to want to ride one, so possibly its out of your tolerance radius Laughing

Suits me, though, and I'm the same height with fat little legs.





I'm 6 feet one riding my Iron 883 with standard mid controls and don't feel cramped at all.
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Johnnythefox
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PostPosted: 17:35 - 20 Dec 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Welcome.
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to v or not to v
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PostPosted: 21:06 - 23 Dec 2020    Post subject: Re: old but new Reply with quote

Tuberculosis wrote:
to v or not to v wrote:
bit of a short arse in the flesh, so limited in my options a bit by my height as well as my budget.


CMX500 Rebel?


if i went Japanese id want something with a bit more horsepower to be honest.

ive been compiling a short list which keeps getting longer!

potential toys that have caught my eye so far include-

RE interceptor 650... less likely to harm my driving licence.
Triumph street triple
Suzuki sv1000
Yamaha mt-07
Yamaha fzs600
Honda vtr1000

the list will probably grow the more i look. theres just so much choice these days.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 22:27 - 23 Dec 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

You poo-poo the Rebel and then mention the Interceptor?! Same power but the latter is heavier! The Enfield does look nice though Smile

The Triple and MT-07 are both nice bikes with regards to power/weight but the rest are all a bit heftier Thinking
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to v or not to v
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PostPosted: 23:07 - 23 Dec 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Easy-X wrote:
You poo-poo the Rebel and then mention the Interceptor?! Same power but the latter is heavier! The Enfield does look nice though Smile

The Triple and MT-07 are both nice bikes with regards to power/weight but the rest are all a bit heftier Thinking


the interceptor is a retro enfield, the rebel a modern jap. i would ride them differently.

i think id generally be a grown up and sensible rider on the 650, but a modern style bike would be for hooligan thrills when i could get away with it to be honest. and i think id quickly get bored with the rebels lack of power.

the big v twins just look like fun to ride, and i love the sound they produce.
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tadge
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PostPosted: 10:45 - 17 Jan 2021    Post subject: Big boots Reply with quote

Daytona make a boot with heel and insole that make you 1 inch taller
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Hong Kong Phooey
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PostPosted: 11:51 - 17 Jan 2021    Post subject: Re: old but new Reply with quote

Freddyfruitbat wrote:
You might want to have a look at last month's edition of Ride magazine (the January 2001 issue, I think?). It carried an article interviewing short riders on how they've got round their problems.


Postal service a bit bad round there eh?! Laughing

There's lowering kits available for a lot of bikes, in case you didn't know.
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to v or not to v
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PostPosted: 17:17 - 29 Jan 2021    Post subject: Re: old but new Reply with quote

Hong Kong Phooey wrote:
Freddyfruitbat wrote:
You might want to have a look at last month's edition of Ride magazine (the January 2001 issue, I think?). It carried an article interviewing short riders on how they've got round their problems.


Postal service a bit bad round there eh?! Laughing

There's lowering kits available for a lot of bikes, in case you didn't know.


ive come across a few lowered bikes whilst searching the classifieds.
im not sure how you can lower the bike without affecting the handling?
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Hong Kong Phooey
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PostPosted: 23:28 - 29 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

There's different length dogbone linkages depending on bike, some will lower, others to raise, but even without using them, just raising or lowering the rear subframe can alter the centre of gravity, and put the rider in a different position.

Sometimes for the worse, sometimes better or even not much at all noticeable.

Raising the rear can make a bike quicker to turn in but less stable.
Lowering it has a tendency to do the opposite.
You should not adjust preload as a way of compensating for ride height.

A proper kit would retain the same length of travel on the shock, and you would still be able to use the full range of spring preload. No matter what, you should adjust the suspension to your weight and riding style.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 23:48 - 29 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Seat height isn't as related to the ability to put your feet down as seat width.

The ability to flat-foot isn't all that important to the bike. It's utterly irrelevant to actually riding it. It does come into play if you can't get a toe down when you stop or can't actually get onto the bike.

I'm 6'1" and I've had a bike I could only just touch one toe down with.

So, yeah, V-twins and singles are narrowest. Then paralell twins, then inline fours. Narrower bikes are easier to put as foot down with.

Try sitting on an ER6. Mate of mine raced one a few years back and thought highly of them and he's a real short-arse to the extent we call him Pingu.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 02:59 - 30 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can get both balls of feet down on the XSR, I considered lowering it to flat foot it but just adding the ability to walk it backwards seems of dubious benefit if it throws the handling out in any way.
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to v or not to v
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PostPosted: 10:01 - 30 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Easy-X wrote:
I can get both balls of feet down on the XSR, I considered lowering it to flat foot it but just adding the ability to walk it backwards seems of dubious benefit if it throws the handling out in any way.


i do like the xsr's. i find the styling much more attractive than the mt's.
unfortunately theyre a bit too pricey for me.
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jeffyjeff
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PostPosted: 15:53 - 30 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Could you use a cargo net on an XSR? Doesn't look like there are any attachment points on it.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 16:01 - 30 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

jeffyjeff wrote:
Could you use a cargo net on an XSR? Doesn't look like there are any attachment points on it.


To strap a bag or whatever on the pillion seat? Nothing specific but there's the rear seat hoop, bit of a gap between that and the mudguard you might get a strap through or some hooks around. I'd have to check, not something I've looked at since I added a topbox.

The alternative is the solo seat which gives you a gap to fill in with a little OEM parcel shelf but that combo is more expensive than a Givi topbox + rails Shocked

<edit> actually, I'm glad you've mentioned cargo nets. I could 100% utilise one of those with the Givi rails I have. Thanks Thumbs Up
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jeffyjeff
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PostPosted: 18:09 - 30 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Easy-X wrote:
<edit> actually, I'm glad you've mentioned cargo nets. I could 100% utilise one of those with the Givi rails I have. Thanks Thumbs Up

The VFR had hooks on the grab handles and a knob on the rear cowl for cargo net use, my R1150R, not so much-had to get creative. I'm a fan of cargo nets; not as utilitarian as a top box, but unobtrusive and simple. That XSR is a good looking bike. You've tweaked my interest Wink
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to v or not to v
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PostPosted: 09:26 - 31 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hong Kong Phooey wrote:


A proper kit would retain the same length of travel on the shock, and you would still be able to use the full range of spring preload. No matter what, you should adjust the suspension to your weight and riding style.


i see from your signature that you have an older cbr mr phooey. how do you rate the bike? theyve come to my attention lately along with the zzr6/11. mainly due to the low buying cost.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 20:34 - 31 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

jeffyjeff wrote:
You've tweaked my interest Wink


I checked when I was out on the bike earlier: there's definitely enough space around the seat hoop to use the cheap cargo nets, the ones with the thin metal hooks. The thicker, plastic hook type probably not.
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Hong Kong Phooey
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PostPosted: 01:54 - 01 Feb 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

to v or not to v wrote:
Hong Kong Phooey wrote:


A proper kit would retain the same length of travel on the shock, and you would still be able to use the full range of spring preload. No matter what, you should adjust the suspension to your weight and riding style.


i see from your signature that you have an older cbr mr phooey. how do you rate the bike? theyve come to my attention lately along with the zzr6/11. mainly due to the low buying cost.


Sweet engine, handling is more than adequate, brakes not the best.
Reliable, comes alive over 6000rpm. Parts are cheap and available, servicing info is everywhere and insurance is a pittance. A well sorted one will last you a long time, still fun after all these years. I'll never part with mine, it's cheaper than walking.
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wr6133
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PostPosted: 09:14 - 01 Feb 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

to v or not to v wrote:
theyve come to my attention lately along with the zzr6/11. mainly due to the low buying cost.


The 6 is IMO one of the best all rounders ever made. Shame you weren't looking a couple months ago I sold my mint '04.

If you do get a ZZR (6 or 11) factor in buying a YSS rear shock. Stock shocks were crap from new and become pogo sticks in under 20k miles, the handling transforms when you replace it.

Postives are extremely comfortable, they handle and go pretty well for what they are and they are very hard to kill. I bought my first one for £400, took it round the clocks, crashed it more times than I can remember and abused it as both daily transport + fun, the thing was still working when I sold it.

If you are shopping for one if budget allows try for a '04 onward that's the last time anything changed (black frame). Avoid pre '93 (d models) as plastics can be a pain to locate. '93 onward are all E models, over the years various things got added (preload adjustable forks, digital clock, black frame).
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to v or not to v
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PostPosted: 10:37 - 01 Feb 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hong Kong Phooey wrote:

Sweet engine, handling is more than adequate, brakes not the best.
Reliable, comes alive over 6000rpm. Parts are cheap and available, servicing info is everywhere and insurance is a pittance. A well sorted one will last you a long time, still fun after all these years. I'll never part with mine, it's cheaper than walking.


praise indeed. i remember them being the 600 of choice back in the early 90's. the fact that there are still plenty around says it all i guess.
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to v or not to v
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PostPosted: 10:47 - 01 Feb 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

wr6133 wrote:

If you are shopping for one if budget allows try for a '04 onward that's the last time anything changed (black frame). Avoid pre '93 (d models) as plastics can be a pain to locate. '93 onward are all E models, over the years various things got added (preload adjustable forks, digital clock, black frame).


thank you for the info. its the low seat height(30.7) that caught my eye.
the question is do i go for the 600 or the 1100.

im thinking the 600 may be the more fun of the 2 to play on, because of the weight and power difference.

any idea what sort of buying price i should be looking at for each model?

a lot of people seem to take the piss with their asking prices for old bikes these days Sad
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wr6133
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PostPosted: 11:32 - 01 Feb 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

to v or not to v wrote:

im thinking the 600 may be the more fun of the 2 to play on, because of the weight and power difference


Fast in a straight line and not too arsed about wearing through consumables then the 1100. Good all rounder to rack up miles on then get the 600, it's not as fast or as nimble as a proper supersport but on the road it's close enough and the comfort means you can ride it all day (even 2 up, pillion provision is very good).


to v or not to v wrote:
any idea what sort of buying price i should be looking at for each model?


11's I'm not really up on prices.

6's vary loads, Mint late production, low miles, dealers are sometimes dreaming at over 2k, private sellers a little under 2k, sold my 04 for a hair under 1800 (and it sold in a week), it had a cat D marker but the bike looked like it was brand new from the showroom.

Late '90's are usually where the bargains appear if you are patient you can usually turn up 25-30k mile examples in ok-decent condition for between 1-1.2k. Used to be under a grand but it's been ages since I've seen any MOT'd runners that look half decent for under 1k.

One thing to note you can get complete Chinese fairing kits for about £400, so mechanically decent bikes going cheap with wrecked plastics can be an option.

to v or not to v wrote:
a lot of people seem to take the piss with their asking prices for old bikes these days Sad


The market is variable, I think the days of getting a usable bike on the road for 400 quid are gone. The climb on these old sport tourers the last few years though is nuts. I bought my 04 for £1400 a few years ago and sold it end of last year for almost £1800.
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