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Non running CBR125R Help needed

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cresad
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Joined: 02 Jun 2014
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PostPosted: 22:34 - 30 Dec 2020    Post subject: Non running CBR125R Help needed Reply with quote

Hi all

My daughters partner has come to me with a problem with his 2017 cbr125r that is a bit unusual.
He pulled up at a roundabout and the engine stopped for no reason, he restarted it but as soon as he put it in gear it stopped again every time.
I've checked the clutch switch and the side stand switch including bypassing them both but when ever it goes in to gear it stops.
When it's in gear the lights are on but you press the starter and the headlight dims as usual but there's nothing from the starter motor at all no clicking or anything but out of gear it's fine.

IM looking at the wiring diagram but apart from the neutral switch I don't know what else to look at particularly, and I'm not looking forward to pulling all the bodywork of it just to look.

Anyone got any ideas ?

Thanks , Adam
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 22:42 - 30 Dec 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maybe the charging system is dead (regulator/rectifier/stator) and the voltage on the battery just dropped way too low for the ECU to function properly. I assume it's an fuel injected model.

Modern automotive (motorcycle) computers do not enjoy voltage irregularities.

I would charge the battery I have and start from there. EDIT: Alternatively, I'd check the voltage on the battery first.
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Last edited by RhynoCZ on 22:50 - 30 Dec 2020; edited 1 time in total
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 22:44 - 30 Dec 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its the side stand cut out switch.
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 23:02 - 30 Dec 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

As said it does sound like the side stand switch but does the bike jolt forwards when selecting 1st gear?
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 23:06 - 30 Dec 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

But would the motorcycle even attempt to start the engine with the cut out switch off? OP says the lights go dim when he presses the starter button. Thinking
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'87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor
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cresad
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PostPosted: 23:23 - 30 Dec 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I’d guessed the lights dimmed deliberately to send more to the starter , it starts normally when in neutral. I’ll get the battery charged and go from there.
As I said in the first post both switches were bypassed

Thanks , Adam
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 00:00 - 31 Dec 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

""" it starts normally when in neutral""
How can it be the battery?
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jeffyjeff
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PostPosted: 02:42 - 31 Dec 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

cresad wrote:
I’d guessed the lights dimmed deliberately to send more to the starter , it starts normally when in neutral. I’ll get the battery charged and go from there.
As I said in the first post both switches were bypassed
Thanks , Adam

You really need to find a wiring diagram for your bike. Nobby and Jaffa90 are telling you that the bike is showing symptoms of a side stand switch malfunction. The ECU determines that the side stand is retracted before the transmission is put into gear; if not, it kills the engine. Bypassing the switch would allow proper function if the switch is closed when the side stand is retracted and open when the stand is deployed (NC). But it could be that the switch is open when the side stand is retracted and closed when the stand is deployed (NO). In that case, bypassing the switch does nothing. Your problem could be a defective switch, or debris preventing the switch from operating correctly, or it could be that you have a problem in the wiring or an associated connector.
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cresad
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PostPosted: 07:56 - 31 Dec 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I’ve got a Haynes for it so I’ll have look at that.

Thanks , Adam
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growler
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PostPosted: 09:26 - 01 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

you may find that when bypassing the switch you have made it permanently on rather than off so the bike thinks the stand is down all the time
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P.
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Joined: 14 Feb 2008
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PostPosted: 09:44 - 01 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

growler wrote:
you may find that when bypassing the switch you have made it permanently on rather than off so the bike thinks the stand is down all the time


That. I've had some bikes where removing the switch says 'stands down' and some where I've bridged it and it does the same.

Remove it, bypass with a bit of wire, 2 things to try really.
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cresad
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PostPosted: 15:37 - 01 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi all

Thanks for the reply’s , it turned out to be the side stand wire. Where the wire goes up the back of the engine there’s a loop of the wire that’s close to the chain and it had got chewed through by it. You have To take engine case off to find it. It’s fixed for now but with no stand switch.

Thanks , Adam
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 17:27 - 01 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Its the side stand cut out switch.


I wonder why I bother....
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xX-Alex-Xx
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PostPosted: 17:41 - 01 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Its the side stand cut out switch.


I wonder why I bother....


If only you’d said earlier.
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jeffyjeff
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PostPosted: 17:46 - 01 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Back in the day (1970), I crashed my Suzuki 350 after riding off with the side stand down, subsequently encountering a left hand curve at about 50mph. Leaned over, the stand encountered the pavement and levered the rear wheel off the road. It happened at night and the sparks were impressive as I fell off the bike and watched it slide and spin down the road ahead of me. The side stand interlock is an important function, and I appreciate this little tidbit of technology, probably more than most. I urge you to think twice before discarding your side stand switch as another useless inconvenience
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 20:16 - 01 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

jeffyjeff wrote:
Back in the day (1970), I crashed my Suzuki 350 after riding off with the side stand down, subsequently encountering a left hand curve at about 50mph. Leaned over, the stand encountered the pavement and levered the rear wheel off the road. It happened at night and the sparks were impressive as I fell off the bike and watched it slide and spin down the road ahead of me. The side stand interlock is an important function, and I appreciate this little tidbit of technology, probably more than most. I urge you to think twice before discarding your side stand switch as another useless inconvenience


Meh. I've had the side stand touch down on everything from a.125 to the strumpet because I've forgotten to put it up and have never fallen off as a result.

Are you really suggesting that you didn't have to lean at all until you were going g so fast that it was terminal? I normally know within the first 30 feet.
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jeffyjeff
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PostPosted: 23:21 - 01 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Are you really suggesting that you didn't have to lean at all until you were going g so fast that it was terminal? I normally know within the first 30 feet.

I'm not suggesting that at all. I'm saying it outright. That is what happened to me.
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cresad
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PostPosted: 09:15 - 02 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

It may get swapped later but at the moment it’s bypassed
The reason I didn’t think it was the switch to start with is because we’d tested it at the switch as to get at the other end means taking all the bodywork off
Anyway it’s back on the road at the moment so he can get to work

Thanks , Adam
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Robby
Dirty Old Man



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PostPosted: 11:01 - 02 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm with JeffyJeff here. A working side stand cutout switch is a good thing to have. Even if you're not going fast enough for it to be terminal, coming off the bike at a petrol station as you pull away from the pump is going to knock a new rider's confidence.

It's currently bodged so the bike runs, but I would recommend fixing it so the bike runs and the switch works.
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