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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 02:07 - 03 Jan 2021    Post subject: Any 3D print gurus? Reply with quote

I have a Prusa i3 (Mk1) clone that I've just dusted off. It seems to be a RAMPS 1.4 driver board on an Arduino Mega. The firmware was version 1.0 of Marlin which nothing seemed to want to talk to. I've spent the entire evening getting Marlin 2.07 running on it and then teaching it left/right/up/down/etc.

Surprisingly it still prints stuff but I think the PLA filament has gone funny. Needs a lot more tweaking & calibration before I can get it to print consistently though.

Anyhoo, assuming I can get it back in working order I'm wondering what to do with it Smile I have a big reel of ABS but no working heatbed (although there is a PCB kicking around here somewhere.) I'm wondering if I should get it to the point I can print me a new printer Thinking
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bladerunner
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PostPosted: 02:17 - 03 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd bang some fresh PLA in it and see how it does first
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Ayrton
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PostPosted: 13:43 - 03 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd get a heated bed first. If you can get a 110v one as it heats up so much faster, but you do need to add a relay.
https://www.instructables.com/Upgrade-3D-Printer-Heated-Bed-to-110V/

It's worth seeing how well it prints and then upgrading the bits you want. I have a mk1 clone with an acrylic frame and upgraded it with as E3D hotend, extruded aluminium AM8 frame, bed level sensor and other bits. I dont think there's much of the original left Laughing They dont print too badly as standard really, but little upgrades like a auto bed level sensor makes printing so much easier.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 14:41 - 03 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ayrton wrote:
I'd get a heated bed first. If you can get a 110v one as it heats up so much faster, but you do need to add a relay.
https://www.instructables.com/Upgrade-3D-Printer-Heated-Bed-to-110V/

It's worth seeing how well it prints and then upgrading the bits you want. I have a mk1 clone with an acrylic frame and upgraded it with as E3D hotend, extruded aluminium AM8 frame, bed level sensor and other bits. I dont think there's much of the original left Laughing They dont print too badly as standard really, but little upgrades like a auto bed level sensor makes printing so much easier.


What I have is a bare 12v RepRap Mk2a PCB heated bed and an XBox 12V 18A PSU. No components, no wiring, no thermistor. Do you think I should get the knick-knacks to get these bits working or just bin it and go straight for something contemporary?

Here's a plan: get it to print ABS consistently and then I can print any Prusa i3 MK3(S+) parts I like, salvage steppers, rods and gears from this build and make a "current" printer. Does that sound doable?

The main Z-axis frame I have seems to be laser-cut steel... it's fecking heavy! I'm hoping I can re-use that. How about the RAMPS/Atmega/Marlin controller combo? Would that be up to the task of handling the levelling mumbo jumbo and all the other new techniques?
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 17:03 - 03 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

PLA is more hygroscopic than ABS so you probably need some fresh stuff
that hasn't absorbed so much ambient moisture in the time its been laid up.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 17:35 - 03 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:
PLA is more hygroscopic than ABS so you probably need some fresh stuff
that hasn't absorbed so much ambient moisture in the time its been laid up.


I've found a few samples still sealed in a bag, seems to be printing okay. Main problem is 1st layer adhesion. Levelling the bed (a manual process on a model this old) made a big difference. Now I'm experimenting with hairspray, Krapton tape Wink and glue sticks.

<addendum> jeez, I can see why ppl set up webcams on these things. Fascinating... yet horrifying when the print lifts off 5 layers in.
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Ayrton
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PostPosted: 18:58 - 03 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Easy-X wrote:
Ayrton wrote:
I'd get a heated bed first. If you can get a 110v one as it heats up so much faster, but you do need to add a relay.
https://www.instructables.com/Upgrade-3D-Printer-Heated-Bed-to-110V/

It's worth seeing how well it prints and then upgrading the bits you want. I have a mk1 clone with an acrylic frame and upgraded it with as E3D hotend, extruded aluminium AM8 frame, bed level sensor and other bits. I dont think there's much of the original left Laughing They dont print too badly as standard really, but little upgrades like a auto bed level sensor makes printing so much easier.


What I have is a bare 12v RepRap Mk2a PCB heated bed and an XBox 12V 18A PSU. No components, no wiring, no thermistor. Do you think I should get the knick-knacks to get these bits working or just bin it and go straight for something contemporary?

Here's a plan: get it to print ABS consistently and then I can print any Prusa i3 MK3(S+) parts I like, salvage steppers, rods and gears from this build and make a "current" printer. Does that sound doable?

The main Z-axis frame I have seems to be laser-cut steel... it's fecking heavy! I'm hoping I can re-use that. How about the RAMPS/Atmega/Marlin controller combo? Would that be up to the task of handling the levelling mumbo jumbo and all the other new techniques?

May as well get a new one if you dont have any cables, the 12v PCB boards are cheap enough now with everything included.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Anet-3D-Printer-Kit-Hot-Bed-Base-Plate-Heating-Platform-Heatbed-Aluminum-Plate/402585972417?hash=item5dbbfe6ec1:g:PKoAAOSwzJFf5uvc

You could also go for a 220v like I suggested but you then need a relay and I think they are a little harder to find in the UK

Printing stuff to upgrade to one of the more modern designs is a good idea. I bought one of these extruded aluminium frame kits which was a huge improvement over the acrylic frame and I think a better solution than what Prusa do with the sheet metal frame.
https://hobby-store.co.uk/frame-kits/full-bear-upgrade-prusa-i3-mk3-printer-frame.html

I'd skip straight to printing with PLA, it's much easier to work with I find. Bed leveling really is a pain in the ass so you should really mod in a auto leveling sensor. I think it was only about £5 for the sensor and you just have to print some kind of mount for it. Also check how flat your bed is because mine was quite uneven and impossible to level by hand. Not really a huge issue when you have auto leveling though.
I always found glue sticks work the best for adhesion along with a brim in your print settings to help stop it lifting on corners. Not having a heated bed is probably making things worse.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 20:37 - 03 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, I've pretty much given up on it in the stock configuration. All the prints lift off a few layers in and all the extreme edges have lift off distortion from material shrinkage.

I did manage to level the bed pretty well by hand though. Initial prints were a complete mess but now they're quite neat - the first few layers anyway. Even tried the old PLA and that was fine.

On that: it might be just some old crud in the extruder. I've tried running the ABS and some good PLA samples through and everything seems much better now. Maybe the higher temp ABS did it some good Smile

I have the 12V PCB, I have the high wattage PSU so I've ordered up a thermistor and some wire and will get the heat bed working and try again. Once I can churn out reasonable PLA & ABS I can think about upgrade parts like the levelling sensor. (Bonus brackets galore on thingiverse!)

Something like this?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Trianglelab-3D-TOUCH-sensor-Auto-BED-Leveling-Sensor-for-anet-A8-tevo-repr-T-ZT/363068858120
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 11:46 - 04 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had another play with the printer last night, experimenting with top-hatting to see if it made any odds... no basically Smile Anyhoo I can see this being a bit of a "turn an old Golf into a GTI rally car" thing - parts are cheap, you can upgrade bit by bit.

Took apart the XBox PSU I have: 3 pairs of chunky wires for +12V and at ~16A absolutely ideal for a 3D printer. It also has a tiny pair of 12V wires that should do nicely to drive the external fans which were previously just wired directly into the 12V/5A feed. Just waiting on some more ferrules and then I can wire it up.
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Ayrton
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PostPosted: 16:33 - 04 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've not got any experience with those kind of sensors but I think they work ok. I've got an inductive sensor on mine, but it can only be used on a metal bed, which pissed me off a few days ago when I tried to add a new flexible magnetic bed.
This guy has a good comparison video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=il9bNWn66BY
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 18:19 - 04 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ayrton wrote:
I've not got any experience with those kind of sensors but I think they work ok. I've got an inductive sensor on mine, but it can only be used on a metal bed, which pissed me off a few days ago when I tried to add a new flexible magnetic bed.
This guy has a good comparison video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=il9bNWn66BY


Nice Thumbs Up
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 19:11 - 04 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

BTW I've discovered I have a Prusa i3 Hephestos which should make my life a bit easier with regards to getting it set up correctly Smile

<addendum> Ah, looking at the specs it's a solid aluminium frame Thinking I must say the RepRap site is a fantastic resource! I've turned up the original Marlin config files... which means I wasted hours unnecessarily tweaking the code by hand Rolling Eyes
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blurredman
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PostPosted: 10:26 - 05 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/d/d0/Infinity_%281990%29.jpg
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 13:15 - 05 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Blurredman wrote:
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/d/d0/Infinity_%281990%29.jpg


Lol... it does feel a bit like going back in time, 3D printing's moved on quite a bit!

First upgrade has turned up: 5mm threaded rod. The old Z-axis rods weren't 100% straight and squeaked really badly. I also think the threads on the left-hand (weight bearing) rod had degraded due to this as it wasn't smooth winding out. The replacements went in just fine though so hopefully that means my nuts are okay Laughing
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 21:08 - 10 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got my first print done, Calicat:

https://i.imgur.com/Sjp9FfL.jpg?2

Crucial to get it to print: bed levelling plus glue stick and the heatbed @ 60 degrees Smile
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