Minarelli am6 flywheel removal?

[BenR]

Ok it's not a genuine minarelli I think it's a clone from a generic trigger but before Xmas I bought a flywheel puller to remove said flywheel. I did it up but as I started to do the bolt up to get the flywheel off it's stripped the thread inside it's also made a mess of the crank pin. Is there anyway of getting the flywheel out without a puller? Cheers in advance.
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Current bikes: suzuki RG125UN wolf. Yamaha MT-07

[oilyrag]

If the crankshaft has a tapered fit it can take a serious amount of force to get a flywheel off. Most flywheels have threaded holes that allow removal with a puller like this. You just have to make sure you get one that fits your flywheel https://yambits.co.uk/images/tls030.jpg?osCsid=7nrm3qea0u28peg315cu597ep3

Or you can make one with some steel plate and a few bolts
https://i.ytimg.com/vi/vdUW6EJtIyc/maxresdefault.jpg

[bikenut]

Post a picture of the mess....can't access the picture of the flywheel puller you used, bet it was a 3 leg variety ?

Always use the proper flywheel puller...else distort the flywheel/wreck something like delicate stator windings underneath, unless of course it's an outsider stator...even then use the proper puller.....
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[Riejufixing]

[BenR]

[BenR]

[bikenut]

Your picture does not open so no idea what the puller you bought looks like.
Post a picture of it please as well as the mess your left with, flywheel and crank wise.
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[Riejufixing]

[Riejufixing]

[BenR]

All I can say is I did the puller up tight & when I started doing the bolt up the threads just gave way the puller is still intact it's just the threads on the flywheel itself. I'm not bothered about the crank as I'll be fitting a bigger one anyway. I'll try to get a photo later.
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Current bikes: suzuki RG125UN wolf. Yamaha MT-07

[Riejufixing]

[BenR]

Doesn't really show much but here's a photo of the flywheel.

https://i.postimg.cc/25cFW9sy/20210110-134818-1.jpg

I've looked at other pullers & on some of them the bolt has a little nipple on the end which I'm assuming is to sit in the end of the crank? The one I bought doesn't have this it's just a normal bolt. Anyone got any ideas how can remove the flywheel now? Cheers.
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Current bikes: suzuki RG125UN wolf. Yamaha MT-07

[Riejufixing]

Can't see the state of the threads inside, nor of the puller itself. An end-on pic of the flywheel is not all that useful. Can you get any other pics (side-on internal flywheel threads, tool external threads, tool bolt end)?

Perhaps a 2-leg puller through the holes? Tighten it up until there's some force on the thing, then give the centre puller bolt a sharp tap with a lightish hammer.

[bikenut]

I assume the flywheel hub had a fine LEFT HAND THREAD ?

You say you are not new to this sort of stuff so know what is meant by a left hand thread ?

Ever attended to a loose pedal or fitted a new one ( you first have to get the old one off ! ) On a pedal bike left hand side ?

Your avatar suggests..........?

You did remove the washer/washers that where under the flywheel nut before you screwed in the extractor, similar to the one in riejufixing's picture ?

Which way did you screw the puller in, clockwise ?

By the way, why do you want to remove the flywheel ?
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[Easy-X]

Much as I try and avoid tooting my own trumpet (back problems) if you scroll half way down pg11 of my DT thread I take the flywheel off - pics, explanations... standard stuff really.

https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=328912&start=225
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Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[bikenut]

You know what a slide hammer is ? DONT ! DONT ! DONT !

As asked post a pic of the tool used, the mess on the threads of the flywheel hub and a better pic of the end of the crank please.
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[BenR]

https://i.postimg.cc/YqT6fyqy/20210110-134831.jpg

[Riejufixing]

Well, you do not seem to have damaged your tool (!) during the procedure, and M19 metric fine (assuming it is as marked) seems to be correct.

So, what could it be?

Again, perhaps the inner of the tool fouls the crank nose before screwing in far enough. Are there marks to indicate this is happening? Again, perhaps, there was some sort of grot in the flywheel's threads. Is this the case?

How many threads (or is it all) in the flywheel are damaged/missing? A careful close-up with good light might illuminate (!) the problem. It's difficult diagnosing over the 'net.

[BenR]

Hi thanks for the comment I think the flywheel is made of cheese personally, crappy Chinese metal? I'll try & find a twin prong puller when I next get paid give that a go. Thanks for the input everyone.
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Current bikes: suzuki RG125UN wolf. Yamaha MT-07

[bikenut]

Hi Ben,

So your in the shit now, but how do you get out ?

Your pictures are opening today, and it looks as if the flywheel extractor was screwed into the flywheel deep enough....

The engine is out of the bike.
The starter ring gear is welded to the flywheel.
If you look thru the larger flywheel holes, how thick is the metal that makes the flywheel "outer", 6mm or so ?

A two leg puller is a no-no, so is a three, even six leg. Why ?

The flywheel is riveted to the flywheel hub, which has the internal thread for a puller.
The thinish flywheel "outer" is not designed to be "pulled", it will just distort especially on a stuburn "client".

Can the hub internal threads be cleaned up so the oe puller can be screwed in for an other go ?
The hubs can be stuburn sometimes being well and truelly "locked" on the taper.

If you can screw in the puller for an other go, think about warming up the hub so it expands slightly to help releasing the taper.

When the puller is in and loaded, a sharp tap on the bolt can help as well, but Remember that pushing the flywheel towards the engine will "load" the big end crank pin etc..

So, threads goosed, what to do ?

Get a spare pair of hands, maybe some levers, a soft thick pad for the engine to "fall onto", a brass drift of about 17mm and a selection of hammers, with about a 17mm face.

The spare pair of hands holds the engine above the thick pad by the flywheel. Kettle of hot water, pour over hub so no hot water goes onto stator.
With the engine raised above the protective pad held by the flywheel, just by the flywheel, only by the flywheel, flywheel held, brass drift in contact with crank, a sharp tap with hammer, and with a good prey, god will allow the taper to release.

Think about this for a while..

Brass drift and the right hammer, you want to shock the taper, not rivet over the end of the crank.

Heat expands hub a bit, shock and gravity act like a slide hammer ( think about that one ) , taper releases and engine drops 2 inches onto soft protective pad.

If it doesn't work first time, go have a pannad.
Try again.
May be a heavier hammer....start light.....
If it doesn't come off, go for a pannad and try again.
Let things ( including you )cool down.

Don't forget, a "please god......" Can only help. When it does come off, a thank you God is a good thing........

Don't rush, take your time.
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[BenR]

[bikenut]

Vice, slide hammer, no, no, no ,no, no ffs no !!!!!

Get someone to hold the engine up by the FLYWHEEL and use a brass, ally or even a hard hard wood drift ( brass best ) and hammer, heat hub then try hitting drift to shock locked taper free.

If it don't work, walk away and have a pannad ( cuppa ). Then when calm and cool, try again with a slightly heavier hammer.

Using this method you employ gravity, and if everything "in line" all the hammer kinetics go thru crank flywheel stub, a more efficient "hit".

If your scrapping flywheel and crank, your last last last option is a drastic drastic drastic one, get the grinder out.

Saying oh come off you zdcnyitasmd! Is defeatist.
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[Riejufixing]

[Riejufixing]

[bikenut]

Will you be changing/scrapping the stator as well ?

Some mspecially made "T" bolt that slip into the holes may work, but only 2 would encourage "tip"...

Try the drift and gravity method first...if it don't work the first time, walk away, try again, and again.

If you can't grip the flywheel, use large diameter worm drive clips ( use small diameter clips joined together if no large clip available ) around the flywheel periphary, you could even use these to clamp a "handle or two" between flywheel and clip bands.

This flywheel is well and truelly on tight.......tapers well and truelly locked, remember the days of cone clutches ? Anyone ? Apart from me that is.....
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