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Bandit 1250 Starting Issue

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DJP
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PostPosted: 12:23 - 03 Jan 2021    Post subject: Bandit 1250 Starting Issue Reply with quote

Over the last week or so my Bandit has become reluctant to start from cold. The symptoms are:

1) The starter spins for longer than usual.
2) When it does start it makes a “Chugging” sound, as if it's running on three cylinders, which goes away after a few seconds and then it runs normally.
3) During start up the clocks reset to kph.

The 1250 is notorious for starter motor problems, and these symptoms are otherwise identical to a dead starter. However, I've fitted a brand new starter and it's still doing it (and I've stripped the old starter and can't find anything wrong with it). The spark plugs and air filter were changed 1,000 miles ago.

That leaves me thinking it's the battery. However, my smart charger shows the battery having a full charge. I'm also reluctant to blame the battery as it's only 4 years old and the bike gets used every day and I've never had an OE battery go bad this early. (I'm not saying that it isn't the battery, but...)

The bike starts fine when it's hot and otherwise functions normally.

Any ideas please?
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 12:51 - 03 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like the battery to me. A battery might charge and show the right voltage but until you put it under stress i.e. starting you have no idea how good it is really. You could try comparing the voltage drop on cold start vs. hot start.

Certainly the mph/kph reset thing lends itself to the voltage dropping substantially on engine turnover.
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Kawasaki Jimbo
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PostPosted: 12:53 - 03 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Agree.
Compare starting using jump leads.
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DJP
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PostPosted: 14:01 - 03 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys, it's looking like the battery.

What's a good brand these days?
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jeffyjeff
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PostPosted: 14:49 - 03 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Poor man's load test: Check the no-load voltage of the battery. Leave the meter leads connected and check again while the engine is cranking. Cranking voltage under 11 volts is questionable; cranking voltage under 9.5 volts definitely indicates the battery is shot.
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JackButler
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PostPosted: 15:25 - 03 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've recently hurt my head on a quad bike battery that my Optimate checked out as perfect. Thinking it must be a problem elsewhere I wasted a lot of time trying to sort it.

Replaced the battery & hey guess what, it seems smart chargers ain't all that smart after all.
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Fisty
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PostPosted: 18:08 - 03 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

JackButler wrote:
I've recently hurt my head on a quad bike battery that my Optimate checked out as perfect. Thinking it must be a problem elsewhere I wasted a lot of time trying to sort it.

Replaced the battery & hey guess what, it seems smart chargers ain't all that smart after all.


Chargers are only as smart as their owners.
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oilyrag
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PostPosted: 18:13 - 03 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yuasa batteries are quality
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A100man
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PostPosted: 09:39 - 06 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Optimates - meh.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 10:39 - 06 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Battery for sure. Mine has gone really lazy since the cold snap. Looking to get a ne woke shortly.
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blurredman
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PostPosted: 10:42 - 06 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

oilyrag wrote:
Yuasa batteries are quality



I won't be buying them next time, myself - I thought the same


But one lasted 3 years, the other 2.
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doggone
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PostPosted: 13:53 - 06 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you can keep your bike on an optimate or similar whenever it's not used for a week or more it makes a vast difference to lifespan with ten years or more being attainable.
Letting them get to the point where they barely turn the engine over fast enough soon results in a viscous circle of decline.
Obviously not everyone can do it for practical reasons but if you can, fit a battery tender type lead to connect easily, and keep it topped up.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 14:26 - 06 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's a good shout. I'm going to do some wiring stuff on my bike soon, good opportunity to add a trickle charge socket.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 16:17 - 06 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Battery life 4 yrs is good. 5 at a push (no pun).
Time for a new battery.
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Kris
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PostPosted: 16:25 - 06 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Blurredman wrote:

I won't be buying them next time, myself - I thought the same
But one lasted 3 years, the other 2.


Hmm that's odd, always bought Yuasa from the local bike shops, filled myself and never had an issue.

Sure it's genuine? Did you get it from eBay? Or is the bike kept outside perhaps?
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doggone
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PostPosted: 16:30 - 06 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:
Battery life 4 yrs is good. 5 at a push (no pun).
Time for a new battery.

My best on a bike is 8 years and it wasn't useless then.
A mini-digger stood almost outside only has a car-sized battery and it's still fine at 12 years - I charge it about once a month if not being used.
Bike batteries being smaller for size/weight do have a harder time but no reason to be changing them every other year.
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oilyrag
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PostPosted: 23:48 - 06 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Blurredman wrote:
oilyrag wrote:
Yuasa batteries are quality



I won't be buying them next time, myself - I thought the same


But one lasted 3 years, the other 2.


They're quality. They're the OEM supplier for most manufactures. https://www.yuasa.co.uk/bike

If you've had a few die it must be something on your end. Your bike is drawing too much current when parked or not sending enough current to the battery when it's running. Do you park your bike for long periods between riding it? Do you have a lot of after market accessories? Motorbike batteries have small capacity (the Ah number). Because of the small capacity you have to keep an eye on the voltage and charge it if it's low. If you leave it in a low state of charge, when you do charge it up the capacity not recover to where is was before. It'll drop lower and lower until starting becomes an issue. Consider investing in a trickle charger or check your current draw when parked.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 03:49 - 07 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

doggone wrote:
MCN wrote:
Battery life 4 yrs is good. 5 at a push (no pun).
Time for a new battery.

My best on a bike is 8 years and it wasn't useless then.
A mini-digger stood almost outside only has a car-sized battery and it's still fine at 12 years - I charge it about once a month if not being used.
Bike batteries being smaller for size/weight do have a harder time but no reason to be changing them every other year.


It depends on many factors.
You can have the same battery in the same model at the same time and one fails sooner.

They may start an engine when the engines are 'ready to start' but fail when asked to do a bit more.
Colder weather, shitty engine conditions are some of the factors that can all add up.
Its the battery's reserve power that counts then.
Older batteries have less reserve.

Its almost always Chemistry.

They are cheap to replace, if reliability is one's demand.
In other words, not worth the faph.

4-5 years is a good life expectancy for a lead acid battery.

Exceptions excepted and accepted. 😂

(I Fit fit hundreds to equipment hat we can't be arsed phaphing with.)

Too many people don't understand (or respect) batteries. 😎

https://www.power-sonic.com/blog/features-of-sealed-lead-acid-batteries/#:~:text=Sealed%20lead%20acid%20batteries%20can,please%20view%20our%20technical%20manual.

https://www.optimabatteries.com/experience/blog/battery-reserve-capacity#:~:text=Cold%20cranking%20amps%20is%20one,discharged%20down%20to%2010.5%20volts.
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