Wrangling the Retro - XSR700 Mods

[Easy-X]

I was just going to post something in "what have you done with your bike today" but I did a quick search on YouTube and didn't turn up much specific to the XSR, loads of MT07 stuff of course. Anyhoo, certainly not much for this:

https://i.imgur.com/80bclcx.jpg?2

A Givi top box and bike-specific rack mount.

So we'll be hi-jacking the four corner mounts:

https://i.imgur.com/SDEmtYV.jpg?1

And using the longer supplied bolts and spacers (new bolts at the top, old ones bellow)

https://i.imgur.com/ZZnWgXa.jpg?1

Note that the red/6mm hex bolts go into captive nuts on the bike frame but two orange/5mm hex tools are required as the smaller ones are mud guard supports and will just spin.

There are these anti-rubbing bits to protect the finish:

https://i.imgur.com/7uhjmRS.jpg?2

So let's have a test fit...

https://i.imgur.com/u95ERCI.jpg?3

This is where the instructions made no sense. The little oblong strips are meant to stick to the round frame? I think not...

https://i.imgur.com/hd76oRr.jpg?1

I also left the foam bit that stops the seat rubbing, more on that later.

Now you have to get the bolts and spacers arranged. One of those "I need a third arm moments"

https://i.imgur.com/o9B6DG1.jpg?1

The bigger front bolts are torqued to BT (bloody tight) the smaller rear ones (10mm socket or angled spanner required) just tight. And only now do I stick on that foam bit

https://i.imgur.com/JXIOkuU.jpg?1

Tidy!

https://i.imgur.com/8Juneth.jpg?1

At this point I was thinking the rail sticks out a bit but I hopped on the bike and it's not jabbing me in the back of the legs.

Now the Monolock:

https://i.imgur.com/KAIEmma.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/FAKjSdn.jpg?1

5mm hex tool, 10mm socket (you won't get a spanner in) and don't lose those little self-tapping screws! Note the metal clamps have a cupped side and a slightly shorter/flatter side.

Hmm, how do these clamps work? This doesn't look right:

https://i.imgur.com/hS1PLnX.jpg?1

No, the other direction! You can't really see it here:

https://i.imgur.com/y6KgF1J.jpg?1

But underneath it makes more sense:

https://i.imgur.com/Zq3yA40.jpg?1

BTW nuts down (fnarr, fnarr) as the bolts are tantalisingly too long to conceal in them in cavity and I'm not breaking out the Dremel for such trivial aesthetics. Don't go too mad torqueing these up as you'll distort the plastic base.

Pop the cover back on and drive in those tiny screws that you totally didn't lose earlier (just hand tight, can easily strip these out going nuts) and here we have it:

https://i.imgur.com/5kCCwc4.jpg?1

Now I just need to decide between taking off the top box at night or getting a better cover
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Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[struan80]

Nice job.

[Easy-X]

Thx, just had notification that the speedo relocation bracket is shipping from Germany so that'll be the next mod.
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Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[doggone]

[Easy-X]

The default speedo location is fine (it's in pretty much the same spot as my previous Rebel) but I want to free up the space on the handlebars for... something else. Two birds, one stone and all that.

Regarding the swing arm, mine is starting to go but it's in good nick for its age. Any suggestions? I have some Hydrate 80 which proved to be very useful on the DT.
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Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[doggone]

I have a CRF250 for winter but I still put ACF50 on it and don't bother washing it much so it's a greasy mess under there.
It might be partly my helmet but when I first got the XSR I seemed to need to consciously look down at the speedo as it's below normal eyeline - it will depend what you are used to.

[Easy-X]

Nice day, let's get some stuff done This little side areas annoy me on the XSR:

https://i.imgur.com/3ZqVls4.jpg?1

There's the fresh air between the frame plus those cables coming down Off come the hex bolt and the vanity domed nut (covering a bolt end from the other side.)

Add a threaded spacer for a screw:

https://i.imgur.com/XGDhPud.jpg?1

And another spacer with a long bolt, tidy!

https://i.imgur.com/u6BatDk.jpg?1

The brake reservoir side had all sorts of pipework exposed. Obviously you'd need to whip this off to top up the fluid:

https://i.imgur.com/bxwTC7y.jpg?1

There are variations on these panels but TBH I prefer these cheap ones. The fancy ones look like they might jab the back of your leg.
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Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[Easy-X]

Speedo bracket next! Only two hex bolts to take off the existing one. The plug here has a concealed clip so the rubber boot needs shifting to release it:

https://i.imgur.com/3XWKuRt.jpg?1

Need to steal the rubber vibration mounts off the old bracket. As it's all plastic I unscrewed and removed the sealed speedo unit and threw the bracket in some hot water to soften the rubber up a bit. My Kedo bracket comes with a simple laser-cut aluminium back panel. (The Brogue bracket has AFAIK a billet cut back option, fiendishly expensive!) As the bike is mostly silver I left this vanity panel as-is. Probably better sprayed black for other colour schemes. Anyhoo, mounts transferred:

https://i.imgur.com/Sl0hCNf.jpg?1

Now at this point most of the YouTube videos skip over the details. What do you do with the cable?

https://i.imgur.com/96FuPJr.jpg?1

Ideally it should run behind the lock but dismantling half the front-end isn't a sensible proposition so I dropped just the headlamp and ran it in front like this:

https://i.imgur.com/bWtDK6J.jpg?1

Enough slack? Seems okay. (Also worth turning the handle bars full lock to make sure everything's still moving freely.)

https://i.imgur.com/J0NIRBW.jpg?1

Now just to re-use the original bracket bolts...

https://i.imgur.com/Ws2KvtB.jpg?1

Oh bugger! I wondered why they supplied two slightly smaller hex bolts with the kit

https://i.imgur.com/XkNUpHZ.jpg?1

Nice, that works So before:

https://i.imgur.com/69DkMQ7.jpg?1

And after:

https://i.imgur.com/JKCk22H.jpg?1

Back view:

https://i.imgur.com/kTxvomI.jpg?1

So now I have lots of handlebar space to mount... something else
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Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[Easy-X]

Fecking Covid, spend more time tinkering than riding As is my way I wait for a sunny day

Easy one to start with:

https://i.imgur.com/KT1egV4.jpg?1

Declutter with some cheap domed bolts:

https://i.imgur.com/vr4QrbN.jpg?1

I've never quite figured out the need for a tiny billet-cut oblong in this spot

Windscreen turned up today. The instructions were pretty much non-existent. Start here:

https://i.imgur.com/WZnYqvL.jpg?1

...and the brackets sandwich in with some longer (supplied) bolts:

https://i.imgur.com/5A5nKFI.jpg?1

There's plenty of room as the front bolt is actually a pivot point, the headlamp is also attached by a bolt underneath:

https://i.imgur.com/LX2vqJo.jpg?1

The screen is attached by the rubber equivalent of rivnuts. (Bit easier to jam in the holes if add a bolt temporarily.)

https://i.imgur.com/sveYPuu.jpg?1

It doesn't say how much you're meant to tighten these so I just went with enough to get a bit of a bulge. I figured any further and the rubber would likely split as it ages.

https://i.imgur.com/dscFXWW.jpg?1

Just need to tighten everything up... now I think of it, it might be worth adding some thread lock.

I went with a light tint:

https://i.imgur.com/Zsz6gYz.jpg?1

And adding to my "touring lite" plan, a tank cover:

https://i.imgur.com/J0HTOGX.jpg?1

Magnet-attached tank bags are all well and good but the outside of the XSR700 tank is plastic and aluminium I can certainly see why the dominatrices* charge so much: bondage gear is tricky stuff to get tight

*I had to look up the plural
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Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[Easy-X]

Riding in snow and ice is one thing but I'm certainly not picking up a spanner in near-zero temperatures Much nicer today so time to tackle the "low hanging fruit."

Oh yes, I forgot to mention fitting a dashcam:

https://i.imgur.com/dkv30Px.jpg?1

I fitted it a while back but the front camera was dead and it took a while for a replacement to turn up. Cable routing follows the "best of a bad job" paradigm:

https://i.imgur.com/e3QyehZ.jpg?1

As the cables come out the right side of the screen it might have been better to route them down that side but there's more space on the left (clutch cable less chunky than brake line.)

There's a big channel no idea what it's for but seemed an ideal place to bundle up the spare cable There's all sorts of cavities under the "electrical panel" I would imagine space for accessory relays. There's a 4amp aux/ground connector lurking about which is plenty for this device.

https://i.imgur.com/eGcByb3.jpg?2

The only thing to watch out for is identifying the A & B channel. The camera connectors aren't labelled but B is flipped to simulate a rear view mirror. Camera placement turned out to be super easy:

https://i.imgur.com/rN54I3T.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/250ssOz.jpg?1

And the snapshot / footage lock button found a convenient home on the brake master (if you check back on the first photo.)

This must be the easiest mod going, stock rad:

https://i.imgur.com/7TErfXR.jpg?1

So let's take those ends off...

https://i.imgur.com/iijOPFb.jpg?2

...to reveal two pointless brackets! Why not make it just one piece, Yamaha?! Anyhoo, cheap grill fitted:

https://i.imgur.com/OM06bp8.jpg?1

And when I say cheap... my cat stepped on it and I had to bend it back into shape! Its sacrificial item so I'm not fussed but if you wanted to make it a feature - all laser cut logo style - find something that incorporates the end bits.

The factory levers are perfectly function but they always seemed over-long to my tiny little mits. The master has a little finger sticking out so that matches up with the concave bit. AFAIK the other Yamaha style is the other way around (the "finger" on the lever) but otherwise similar fit and dimensions.

https://i.imgur.com/wFzvKtW.jpg?1

The clutch lever took a bit more work:

https://i.imgur.com/puFsr6I.jpg?1

The pivot pin is 6mm and the lever has a 10mm hole with a (cast iron?) plain bearing. The hole on the new lever... 8mm I just had at it with a drill and a round file:

https://i.imgur.com/bQEyoMH.jpg?1

Much better:

https://i.imgur.com/mxfYz8q.jpg?1

I also thought I might change the mirrors:

https://i.imgur.com/vPMkr1c.jpg?1

Like that? Tough, I took them straight off. Between the inadequate fixings and the soft alloy I just could not get them to tighten down properly Not much in the way of adjustability either.

Bonus item: a bog-standard 4-pin Yamaha OBDC adapter plays nicely with my old car tester:

https://i.imgur.com/K65372H.jpg?2
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Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[Easy-X]

Ah, another sunny day. More mods, more riding

I never liked the "parts bin" indicators on the Rebel (they fixed this in the 2020 refresh) and the ones on the XSR aren't much better aesthetically. There's a theme going on with the round headlight and brake light so I thought I might continue that. Unfortunately after hours of trawling through both tat bazaars and decent sites I only turned up one set I liked. Unfortunately Chinese rubbish but they do at least give a slight nod to the OEM rear's style.

First task is to strip out the DRL wire and assess the board. As I suspected: all held together with glue gun and hope. I tidied things up as best I could and aligned the LEDs:

https://i.imgur.com/3I4tpvW.jpg?1

Just bare wire ends so connectors crimped + Yamaha connector adaptor, a pair of teardrop fascia adaptors added to each lamp for mounting:

https://i.imgur.com/05alIAF.jpg?1

For reference, the black connector is for right/offside and grey is left/nearside. I put a dab of Sharpie on the right lamp's connector:

https://i.imgur.com/ArVSOXx.jpg?1

Fronts done, that was easy:

https://i.imgur.com/2f3IfhB.jpg?1

The back, not so much. First to come off is a panel inside the mudguard:

https://i.imgur.com/eEjNMKz.jpg?1https://i.imgur.com/eT5ktSq.jpg?1

Off with the seat and there's two sets of bolts. The orange marked (along with the fixings for the topbox rack) need to come off so the mudguard can drop out. Note that another hex tool might be needed underneath to stop the fixing spinning. Always have two sets of hex keys The red marked are 2 of 5. The others are easier to get to once the mudguard drops down:

https://i.imgur.com/3YvqJMK.jpg?1https://i.imgur.com/ANJjdO4.jpg?1

The ham in the sandwich, no chance of just pulling the cables through!

https://i.imgur.com/CGFeOBf.jpg?1

The rear cables are a wee bit longer, lucky I have some zip wire and a soldering iron:

https://i.imgur.com/6cYTqB4.jpg?2

I had some spare heat-resistant tubing kicking about. It's a bit OTT but just the right size for the round Yamaha connectors to pass through:

https://i.imgur.com/mjID6qi.jpg?2

And reassembly is the reverse, as they say...

https://i.imgur.com/enPIse3.jpg?1

What's that Skippy? The indicators flash really really fast and you don't think that's legal? Oh noes!

Thankfully the flasher relay is probably the easiest one to get to on the XSR. Just under the electrical panel, left of the regulator:

https://i.imgur.com/d28aF9x.jpg?1

Yamaha use a 3-pin automotive connector but only use 2 pins I added a frame ground to the spare pin:

https://i.imgur.com/6PWygFc.jpg?1

And then wired up a 3-wire LED-friendly relay I just happened to have:

https://i.imgur.com/4FzNM9x.jpg?1

Well that fits The very first flash from stone-cold is a bit delayed (capacitor charging up?) but after that it's fine:

https://i.imgur.com/8V67ysa.jpg?1

Something to consider when you buy generic electrics: do you have the bits to adapt them to your bike?
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Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[Easy-X]

Part 2: The Swing Arm

No one's ever said the MT-07 / XSR700 is deluxe so while the rust spots on the swing arm are unwelcome they're really not bad for the age of the bike apparently:

https://i.imgur.com/4ViGRm0.jpg?1https://i.imgur.com/6x2NlhW.jpg?1

After going over with a stiff brush and a quick clean I dabbed on some Hydrate 80, waited for it to do its thing and then slapped on some Hammerite black metallic satin, the aim being preservation rather than restoration, i.e. bodge:

https://i.imgur.com/4HFWzNC.jpg?1

As it's over a weld seam it doesn't look too bad; in the same vein as "...she looked good across the floor of a nightclub after half a dozen Stellas." Anyhoo, be interesting to see how it holds up after a season or two. The correct thing to do might be take the swing arm off and do a proper job. Maybe at some point the rear-shock will need changing
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Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[Easy-X]

And Part 3 Not really a job on the bike but an observation.

I considered swapping the headlight to LED as well. As I had it apart for the indicators, may as well take a look:

https://i.imgur.com/KQxMOMG.jpg?1

Looking at the OEM assembly on the left the actual lamp part is the beige plastic bit. I think I might have a slight problem

So I think the choices are 3D print some arms, fashion something out of tin sheet or go with an aftermarket headlight bucket TBH I quite like the stock bucket and the adjustable cradle thing is clever.

I shall have to have a think...
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Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[stinkwheel]

Whilst technically an MOT fail, you could fit a good quality LED bulb in the existing headlamp.

It's hard to know how they would be able to tell if the beam pattern tests up correctly (which is why i said a good quality one).
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Easy-X]

[Easy-X]

Looking at the Thingverse Honda print it clamps around the outer edge of the LED shell. That doesn't leave a lot of room in the headlamp bucket so I'm going to friction fit / glue above the lip. It'll make more sense when it's printed but this'll be Mk1 to try for size:

https://i.imgur.com/wWNbhX7.png?1
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Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[Easy-X]

Y-belt slipped half way through printing the above design. I revised it slightly and got this to print successfully:

https://i.imgur.com/WvJ533z.jpg?1

Fit for the rubber grommet is good as is the distance between the two mounting points:

https://i.imgur.com/MY5LtGL.jpg?1

Now need to check clearances.
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Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[Easy-X]

Mark 3 with front "beauty ring"

https://i.imgur.com/Tso0dSG.jpg
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Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[Easy-X]

Still working on the 3D printed lamp bracket. I've got the back half with the mounting holes perfected. Anyhoo, you know the drill: nice day, little bit of work on the bike and then road test to watch for any performance improvements so... umm... bar end mirrors

Word of caution on the XSR, probably some other Yamahas. 99% of the tat on FleaBay and Amazon won't fit as for some reason Yams decided to have chonkers threaded holes on the ends of their handlebars. (Most cheap bar ends and bar-end mirrors are friction fit with a sort of expansion bolt affair.) In the end I had a choice of German billet-cut aluminium (priced like platinum) or Aliexpress. No prizes for guessing which ones I ordered

Here's a side-by-side with the stock:

https://i.imgur.com/7qHRmHS.jpg?1

Much less mirror but the bar-end mirror is in an optimal position so the limited glass is much more useful. Bonus: anti-glare tint.

I have to admit not being that fussed before...

https://i.imgur.com/0E0GjDv.jpg?1

...but the picture doesn't really demonstrate how open your front view becomes without the "stag antlers" as I've seen them referred to
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Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[Easy-X]

I'm planning on doing the 3-ish year / 6000 mile major service this winter so I'm compiling a little cheat sheet from the service manual...

Check

Fuel lines
Brake hoses
Spark Plugs - NGK LMAR8A-9 (4313), 0.8~0.9mm gap
Air filter - OEM 1WS-14450-00, Hiflo HFA4707
Front brake pads (minimum 0.5mm)
Rear brake pads (minimum 1.0mm)
Tyres - 120/70 R17 (225kPa/33psi), 180/55 R17 (250kPa/36psi)
Wheel bearings
Swingarm play
Steering bearings
Chassis fasteners (look for loose nuts & bolts)
Forks (leakage) - OEM 10W oil
Rear shock (leakage)
Rear shock linkage
Front & rear brake switches
Lights & Signals

Adjustments

Chain slack - 525VAZ/DAIDO, 108 link, 51~56mm slack
Throttle body synchronisation (a little over the top, I don't think I'll bother)

Lubricate

Throttle grip - silicone grease
Brake lever - lithium on the pivot, silicone for everything else
Brake pedal - lithium grease
Clutch lever - lithium grease
Shift pedal - lithium grease
Side stand - lithium grease
Chain - old engine oil or your brand of choice
Throttle & clutch cables - 3in1 or PTFE

Any other moving parts I go with silicone for plastics, lithium for metal on metal (or moly on high wear areas) with copper grease getting the occasion mention in the service manual.

Replace

Brake fluid - DOT4
Engine oil - 10W40, 2.6 ~ 3.0 litres (the latter being a complete drain)
Oil drain bolt - M14 copper washer
Oil Filter - OEM 5GH-13440-61, Hiflo HF204RC
Engine coolant - anything for aluminium block engines, rad 1.60 litres, reservoir 0.25 litres (so buy 2 litres ready mixed or 1 litre concentrate + distilled water)

On the brakes the manual alludes to replacing the piston seals and dust seals. At a minimum I intend taking off the callipers for a good clean so if the dust seals look fucked then it's a big job...

Pistons out and new seals means draining the whole system unless one is very careful. Any air in the system necessitates a scan tool that can trigger the ABS test mode. And if one is going as far as refurbing the brakes it'd be rude not to make up some steel braided AN-3 at the same time

<edit> added part numbers for replacement air filter
<edit> tweaked spark plug part number
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Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[wr6133]

Personally I'd move air filter and plugs on to the replace. I do mine yearly regardless.

Wouldn't bother with brake fluid unless it's gone a nasty colour.

[grr666]

[Ayrton]

When you say throttle grip do you mean the throttle tube itself? I always thought the tube should be left unlubed. Someone had greased my sv650 throttle and it just made any crap that got underneath the throttle stick to the grease and stopped it snapping shut nicely.

[Easy-X]

BTW I probably should have said servicing will be identical with the MT07 and most likely the Tracer. Tenere would be a bit different.

[doggone]

At 6000 miles I'd only do oil and filter and regular checks.