Wrangling the Retro - XSR700 Mods

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[to v or not to v]

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Everything's on order, including new spark plugs as a little treat 2x XSR700 oil sump washers = £3.10 on eBay but 10x M14 generic copper sump washers = £4.35

While I got the bike last December I've had a flick through the paperwork and the original owner bought it in June 2016. Nice. Gives me an excuse to service it next month while the weather's still reasonable rather than fumbling in the middle of winter
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Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

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Contemplating LED headlamps (which I personally quite like.) I had worked out a bracket for a 5 3/4" unit to fit in the OEM bucket but due to the layered nature of 3D printing I can't make something I feel is strong enough. I might revisit the idea by combining with some metal elements but suffice to say the plan seems a lot of hassle

As an alternative I'm contemplating a generic 7" bowl. There's >200mm width available which is relatively standard but consider the depth of the OEM part:

https://i.imgur.com/g0Z7DdE.jpg?1

And this particular generic part - just offered up to get an idea - is one of the deeper ones:

https://i.imgur.com/yfYTNZ6.jpg

Just not happy with all that wiring exposed
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Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

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Day 2 of the major service (Day 1 was dropping the fluids.) Today I will be changing the air filter and spark plugs.

And of course all of that is under the fuel tank:

https://i.imgur.com/RKia9bH.jpg?1

First undoing the two columns hex bolts (2.5 & 3mm) to get the outer shell off. There are two plastic rivets on the front side of the tank. Don't just yank the panels off, ease them off these clips:

https://i.imgur.com/lVbN429.jpg?1

And here we have the actual steel tank:

https://i.imgur.com/y0eZQnq.jpg?1

I suppose it's a nice idea. In the event of some unscheduled horizontal action the panels are easier to replace than getting dents beaten out and the tank repainting. Bit of a faff though, all to get to the main fixings.

Just loosen this one at the from for now:

https://i.imgur.com/Tlb2UKq.jpg?1

These are the main ones at the back:

https://i.imgur.com/UprO5lv.jpg?1

And now we can pivot the tank up a bit to get to the pipes and cable connectors:

https://i.imgur.com/L6VqHqi.jpg?1

Before that though disconnect the breather and drain pipes, front-right:

https://i.imgur.com/6rNfIR6.jpg?1

And whatever this connector is:

https://i.imgur.com/se4R1g9.jpg?1

With those out of the way the tank lifts up a bit easier. There's another electrical connector to unplug and then the fuel line:

https://i.imgur.com/una8oOJ.jpg?1

The red safety clip needs to get slid back and then you can squeeze the square release panels (one on either side) it helps if you have small fingers I put a towel down but hardly any fuel leaked out however if you'd ridden the bike recently there might still be some pressure in there.

And now the big bolt at the front and the tank can come off, helps at this point to have the foresight to let the fuel run low Air box is very easy. I was expecting a breather pipe going to the lid but maybe that's just on the MT07:

https://i.imgur.com/WFtLpa1.jpg?1

Filter's looking grubby at the bottom, note the final screw holding the filter in:

https://i.imgur.com/uR77DPD.jpg?1

Looking at the snorkel we can see why only the bottom of the filter is dirty:

https://i.imgur.com/iggdDqn.jpg?1

AFAIK a Stage 1 airbox mod would be remove the snorkel and Stage 2 is to replace the lid entirely with a bigger air inlet. Something on my list of things to do if I get a flash/tune. Go easy on putting these screws back as it's very easy to overtighten going into plastic!

For the spark plugs you will need: long 14mm socket, a knuckle, a very long extension & a magnetic pickup. If you don't have these things stop now, you have been warned

I managed to get to the coil packs and plugs by removing the ECU:

https://i.imgur.com/MoWJvbK.jpg?1

WARNING!!! Disconnect the battery otherwise you might fuck the ECU up.

The coil packs are a bitch to get out. The best tip I found was to twist, wriggle, twist, wriggle... they do pop out eventually. Then you have the logic puzzle of how to get them past all the pipes and cables:

https://i.imgur.com/XPZYIfO.jpg?1

Did I say you needed a long extension to get the plugs out?

https://i.imgur.com/webXzPP.jpg?1

As expected, a bit lean:

https://i.imgur.com/OSDSD9q.jpg?1

50% down to "that's the way we roll" with modern, water-cooled bikes but obviously the exhaust system I fitted isn't helping. Anyhoo, I'd rather throw money at new tyres first before getting the ECU reflashed... not that I'd probably notice the extra ~5bhp anyway

Slowly working my way through the service schedule. Still have wheel bearings to check, maybe lube the kickstand, etc. Oiling the clutch cable looks straightforward but I might leave the throttle cables - there's a rubber boot over them on the handlebar side so it's not like they exposed to rain. And the other end (at the throttle bodies) is under the airbox
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Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[WD Forte]

Fuck me how long are those plugs?
I thought you'd photoshopped them until I googled them !

Don't look that lean to me, look about right IMO

Leds are all very well but I'd suggest considering the amount of power the RegRec will have to burn off.
You might want to see how hot it runs with/without before committing
and remember you're not actually saving energy with leds on a bike with a stator and shunt regulator, just dissipating it in a different way.
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bikers smell of wee

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[WD Forte]

just noticed.....

You got a brown seat cover and bar end mirrors...........


https://i.imgur.com/oDxh63p.mp4
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bikers smell of wee

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The seat's factory, the bar ends... well there are certain stereotypes one must conform to
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Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[to v or not to v]

dont listen to him, he rides a scooter!
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current bike Yamaha Thunderace.
its old and fat, but its a damned good ride. the bikes not bad either.

[WD Forte]

yeah but, no but,
bar end mirrors

https://bestanimations.com/media/enterprise/1049634336star-trek-enterprise-picard-animated-gif-2.gif


GHEY!!
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bikers smell of wee

[to v or not to v]

[A100man]

Jeez what a bollock ache - worse that changing the plugs on the FZ.. and the same opportunity to drop shite down the holes unsighted.

Agree with WD - plug colour looks fine.

I wonder if you might get more use from the air fllter if you cut down the inner input tube.. Buy another for experimentation? Or drill holes that can be taped over..
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Now: A100, GT250A, XJ598, FZ750

Then: Fizz, RS200, KL250, XJ550, Laverda Alpina, XJ600, FZS600

[grr666]

[Easy-X]

[WD Forte]

OK I'll give you a pass on the 'Yamaha made me a ghey' seat
but I honestly do regard bell end... I mean bar end! mirrors as a form over function move.
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bikers smell of wee

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Last few bits today: re-grease the pedal pivot bolts, kickstand and oil the cables. (Check tyre pressures which I should have done yesterday.)

As I had the shift pedal off I thought I'd take a look at the front sprocket, not that I was expecting any wear. Yamaha thought red thread-lock appropriate for the sprocket cover for some reason.

https://i.imgur.com/teZlBw7.jpg?1

Ewwwwww! TBH I was expecting this having already replaced the Kwacker & Bonnie front sprockets recently. Thankfully Yamaha make cleaning this area easy as there's a plastic bit around the sprocket that just pulls out:

https://i.imgur.com/CeDrUbt.jpg?1

Much better:

https://i.imgur.com/lYfFr2X.jpg?1

Moving onto the actual pivot bolts the brake and shift pedals are both the same in that they have a little channel to act as a grease reservoir:

https://i.imgur.com/BEwmBFh.jpg?1

And similarly a little channel (that will get covered by a washer) on the arm:

https://i.imgur.com/xQb3iDX.jpg?1

So slap on some grease but not the bolt threads as they want blue thread-lock.

Oh and I wonder if people avoid doing this stuff with the kickstand and brake as getting the return spring back on can be a pain. I highly recommend getting one of these:

https://i.imgur.com/n7AlkqX.jpg?1

Only cost a few quid

This is a handy little gadget to oil the clutch cable:

https://i.imgur.com/wOVZORv.jpg?1

I went with PTFE. Loosen up the clutch cable, squirt some in and work back and forth till it drips out the end (stop sniggering at the back!)

https://i.imgur.com/zOl7bPA.jpg?1

The cable wasn't too bad previously but it fairly glides back and forth now

Throttle assembly is actually pretty easy to take apart:

https://i.imgur.com/3WANVJB.jpg?1

Can't use the special tool to feed in the PTFE but I just filled up the plastic channel and worked the cable, probably wasted loads. BTW while the throttle bodies are pretty inaccessible under the air box the other end of the throttle cables is not, just need to remove this panel...

https://i.imgur.com/Gd7pELk.jpg?1

and...

https://i.imgur.com/oWivbjz.jpg?

Oh ffs Anyhoo, removing the next panel I checked there was evidence of fresh PTFE and adjusted the throttle slack.

After reassembling the throttle it seemed appropriate to crack open a beer and generally threaten the bike with a set of hex tools ("Check Chassis Fastenings" on service schedule.) Job done for another few years

Obviously one would need to go on a test ride to assess the workmanship and it was after all a lovely afternoon. Observations: gear box is more "snick" than "thud" at least going from 2^nd upwards. Taking out the slack has made the throttle a lot more precise but next time I start the bike I'd best check there's no rev increase when I turn the handlebars full lock

Overall everything's just a teeny bit better, a very easy bike to work on bar the spark plugs
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Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[WD Forte]

[DJP]

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Working on my own bike for a change! Back to the LED headlight idea...

A reminder of the OEM unit. "Bucket" is highly appropriate!

https://i.imgur.com/zgJxnBK.jpg?1

Strip all that off and there's quite a bit of wiring being covered up:

https://i.imgur.com/wdBw2SB.jpg?1

Offering up the generic unit this is about as high as it can mount and still rotate for the correct beam angle. Needs to clear the bottom of the ignition (marked.)

https://i.imgur.com/cIuQZ93.jpg?1

Front view? Horrible. Loads of ppl (from what I've seen on the Interwebs) just leave it like this BTW the marked cable is from the relocated clock and can be re-routed under the ignition.

https://i.imgur.com/C8N6Tpc.jpg?1

C.A.D. to the rescue! (Cardboard Aided Design) and luckily I'd just finished up the Bran Flakes First attempt:

https://i.imgur.com/3jjIHmO.jpg?1

Bit more clearance here and there...

https://i.imgur.com/g4Tc1Vm.jpg?1

Now I just need to pass the design onto the fabrication department! To be continued...
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Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[doggone]

Something that feels just plain wrong is the position of original instrument pods and key - they ought to be swapped.
When I first got it I found it quite annoying you had to consciously look down at instruments as they seemed too close, and then putting key down in front of clocks can be fiddly to impossible with gloves on.
I will put up with it though.

Another common obsession is getting rid of rear end and replacing with stupid tiny indicators - compared to many bikes I don't think it's too bad.
I did get a slightly smaller plate helps quite a bit.

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Yeah, I've said it before: the top mod for this bike is the clock relocation bracket. The rear-end could be tidied up but given I have a Givi rack over the top it actually all works as a piece.

I agree the key location is annoying but it's only something one touches at the start and end of a journey but not helped by the screen I had fitted. Not sure I'll adapt/refit the screen or do something else with the front end
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Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

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First attempt was in 1mm steel plate, plenty strong enough when folded for what is essentially a vanity cover. However with the headlight brackets I have the bucket needs to sit quite low to clear the ignition and wiring so I've put all the OEM stuff back and going to have rethink.
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Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter