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TravisBickle
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| droog |
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droog
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 Posted: 09:07 - 04 Feb 2021  Post subject: |
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In my experience the Oxford cable lock is a good solution for when you are parking the bike up for casual excursions.
It's much lighter than a chain and can be easily carried in a backpack or on the bike - and can be looped through the front wheel/fork and then around a lampost to stop the bike being lifted up and slung into the back of a van - I usually loop mine through the front fork and then through the iron tubing at my local car park.
In combination with a disc lock it should deter most opportunist thieves who will go for easier pickings - but obviously it won't stop a pro equipped with an angle grinder.
https://www.oxfordproducts.com/motorcycle/brands/oxford/security/cable_locks/revolver_18m_silver/ |
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| Fat Angry Scotsman |
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Fat Angry Scotsman
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| rpsmith79 |
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rpsmith79
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Posted: 10:22 - 04 Feb 2021  Post subject: Re: Security out and about |
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| The_Fat_Angry_Scotsman wrote: |
I really like the way the RoadLOK works:
https://roadlok.com/
It attaches to the brake calliper bolts and means you only need to carry the pin with you which you drop in when you park up and that's it locked and unable to be rolled away.
I like that it is more secure than a standard disc lock and it appears that once it is locked through the rotor the thieves would need to angle grind both the bolt holding it to the calliper and the brake disc itself as it engages through both.
Since it is attached to the bike at all times, it means I don't need to carry an equally substantial disc lock in my jacket pockets or put a tail or tank bag on: all of which I would rather not.
Just my two cents though, and the downside is it only works on radial type callipers. It's also pretty expensive.
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Thats a nice looking bit of kit, i know disc locks won't ever prevent a pick-up and take away type theft, but that looks really smart and way more convenient that a traditional disc lock
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arry
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Kentol750
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Fat Angry Scotsman
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Kentol750
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Fat Angry Scotsman
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Fat Angry Scotsman
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Kentol750
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| TravisBickle |
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TravisBickle
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| Posted: 19:21 - 04 Feb 2021 Post subject: Re: Security out and about |
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| Fat_Angry_Scotsman wrote: | |
That's a really smart solution but looks to me like it can simply unbolted from the calliper? That's probably not the case but what it looks like? Makes you wonder why manufacturers haven't incorporated something similar into standard fitment.
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Fat Angry Scotsman
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| NJD |
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NJD
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| Posted: 11:54 - 05 Feb 2021 Post subject: |
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| Tuberculosis wrote: | So back to using a single padlock. If one were to use this method only, where would be the best place to put it? Front brake disc seems to be favourite among most people but isn't the front wheel relatively quick and easy to remove? I'm thinking rear sprocket would be best but perhaps someone can correct me? |
The rear is preferable, but commonly overlooked as people see the words "disc lock" and conventionally go with the front (not that there's anything wrong with that). Its not that the front wheel can be removed, but rather lifted and therefore loaded into a van etc (IMO).
You may be able to place it on the rear sprocket or disc, but you wont know until you try: a lot it depends on the lock you have, but also the space on the rear sprocket / disc. Try it now, and you'll now in a few seconds what you have to work with.
Personally a singular disc lock and steering lock sounds effective for a quick pop into the shops, but for any length of time I'd want more.
~
Just to touch upon luggage tail packs quickly: you'll ideally want to get one, and doing so will allow you to carry a chain of decent weight without feeling much difference (strapped down properly). A disc lock in the pocket is small and compact, but I wouldn't want it digging into me if I ever fell.
Oxford are okay, but I'd only get a tail-pack that sits on the seat and has bungee cords to secure it (along-side a strap that goes under the seat). Although that depends on bungee options on your bike. The ones with the detachable base have cheap zips and will snap / wear with regular heavy loads.
Kriega are the best. A US-10 is ideal for minimal luggage, and a US-20 would take a 2.0 m 16 mm chain with plenty of room left over for other things.
~
In terms of chains: I'd say you'll want at least a 2.0 meter chain for out and about. Through the rear wheel and ideally suspended in the air by being looped through part of the rear frame / luggage frame and then around a pole etc.
I'd recommend a minimum of 13 mm chain link size. Pragmasis 13 mm would be my light and portable option, and the Pragmasis 16 mm if I wanted something a bit more hefty.
Pragmasis do "round-locks" that are unique and cool. For the 13 mm I'd get a normal padlock or round-lock, and with the 16 mm I'd get either a roundlock or D-Lock (means short chains can be used in applications where they may not have otherwise fitted because the space in the d-lock makes up for the lack of links [length] in the chain).
Pragmasis (you wont find them in shops):
https://securityforbikes.com/index.php
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| Kentol750 |
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Kentol750
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Posted: 14:05 - 05 Feb 2021  Post subject: |
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The cable I have is this:
https://www.masterlock.eu/home-personal/product/8433EURD
As I said, it might not hold out for long, but the length and ability to wrap it around and through things easily before locking it off is great.
You could get into a pocket, but as NJD says, you wouldn't want to land on any lock! And, disc lock onto sprocket or rear disc if it fits. 
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TravisBickle
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| Posted: 18:41 - 05 Feb 2021 Post subject: |
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| NJD wrote: | The rear is preferable, but commonly overlooked as people see the words "disc lock" and conventionally go with the front (not that there's anything wrong with that). Its not that the front wheel can be removed, but rather lifted and therefore loaded into a van etc (IMO).
You may be able to place it on the rear sprocket or disc, but you wont know until you try: a lot it depends on the lock you have, but also the space on the rear sprocket / disc. Try it now, and you'll now in a few seconds what you have to work with.
Personally a singular disc lock and steering lock sounds effective for a quick pop into the shops, but for any length of time I'd want more. |
I have actually been using it on the rear sprocket, just wondered whether this was advisable or not as I've never noticed anyone else doing this usually just doing the front brake disc as you said. Could also do the rear brake disc as opposed to the sprocket. Is one side preferable to the other?
| NJD wrote: | Just to touch upon luggage tail packs quickly: you'll ideally want to get one, and doing so will allow you to carry a chain of decent weight without feeling much difference (strapped down properly). A disc lock in the pocket is small and compact, but I wouldn't want it digging into me if I ever fell.
Oxford are okay, but I'd only get a tail-pack that sits on the seat and has bungee cords to secure it (along-side a strap that goes under the seat). Although that depends on bungee options on your bike. The ones with the detachable base have cheap zips and will snap / wear with regular heavy loads.
Kriega are the best. A US-10 is ideal for minimal luggage, and a US-20 would take a 2.0 m 16 mm chain with plenty of room left over for other things. |
That's a good idea but a bit more messing around than I'd be keen on. I'm sure it's a solution that works perfectly well but the idea of a fabric bag being bungee strapped to the rear seat doesn't fill me with confidence and I think would look messy on the bike and also another accessory on the bike for some scrote to pinch? I do have a very large Givi top box (the biggest one they do the Trekker Outback 58 which I love) but I'm wary not to overload it, those chains weigh a ton I'm using a 1.2m loopback 12mm Abus chain. I actually managed to shear the mounting brackets before and had to replace them, I got off the bike after a ride to find my top box sitting at a 45 degree angle having been bent backwards and was only hanging on by a thread where the fitting kit arms had sheared on both sides where they connect to the mounting plate, one side had sheared off completely and the other was just about to give way it's a miracle I didn't lose the box down the road. I had been regularly overloading the box with crates of beer and shopping from the supermarket etc. Not sure whether it was the continuous overloading over time that made the arms eventually shear or whether it was because I have a habit of flying over railway level crossings at around 50mph while lifting my bum off the seat to let me knees soak up the bumps (all motocross style LOL not sure if this is the done thing or not I'm still a fairly new rider dunno if that's proper or frowned upon) or maybe it was a combination of the two but whatever caused it I'm just really cautious about overloading it now, as that chain weighs a ton I wouldn't really want to put much else in there along with it. Maybe I'm just being paranoid but I was so close to losing my top box before it was hanging on by a thread could have caused a nasty accident and lost a £300 top box.[/quote]
| NJD wrote: | In terms of chains: I'd say you'll want at least a 2.0 meter chain for out and about. Through the rear wheel and ideally suspended in the air by being looped through part of the rear frame / luggage frame and then around a pole etc.
I'd recommend a minimum of 13 mm chain link size. Pragmasis 13 mm would be my light and portable option, and the Pragmasis 16 mm if I wanted something a bit more hefty.
Pragmasis do "round-locks" that are unique and cool. For the 13 mm I'd get a normal padlock or round-lock, and with the 16 mm I'd get either a roundlock or D-Lock (means short chains can be used in applications where they may not have otherwise fitted because the space in the d-lock makes up for the lack of links [length] in the chain).
Pragmasis (you wont find them in shops):
https://securityforbikes.com/index.php |
I use a 1.2m loopback chain which is 12mm thick. Being a loopback chain gives you the ability to reach approx the same distance as a 2m chain doubled up but only being about half the weight. Although it wouldn't work for threading through the frame as you say it would be too short for that but it's good for looping round the rear wheel and locking to my ground anchor at home on my driveway (I don't have a garage). I find even that 1.2m 12mm chain quite a hefty weight let alone carrying a 2m one at 13mm or 16mm around with me on the bike. The Abus padlocks I use are 14mm so no point having the extra weight of a 16mm chain as surely any thief is going to attack the weakest link which in this case would be the 14mm padlock on the 16mm chain? Couldn't get a 14mm or a 16mm loopback chain anyway so settled for the Abus 12KS/120 chain for the practicality. The reason I went for the 14mm Abus Granit XS 67 locks is it's the heaviest duty one I could find where the manufacturer does the option to order additional padlocks with identical barrel fitting the same key (meaning your whole family can have a padlock on each of their bikes plus using padlocks for other purposes around your property but each person only ever needs one key on their keyring that will work on all the padlocks around your home and various bikes, it's really convenient and I wouldn't give up the convenience for the extra security of a thicker shackle). Would be interest if anyone could point me in the direction of a heavier duty lock than the XS 67 with the option to order more from the manufacturer with the same barrel/keys? But I don't think one exists.
As someone else said, for out and about I think a long cable type one would be ok as a deterrent so long as the padlock is actually put round a brake disc or sprocket as well. I think I've got an extra long one at least 5m long maybe longer like this one somewhere should probably dig it out:
https://www.oxfordproducts.com/motorcycle/brands/oxford/helmet_accessories/oxford_loop_lock_2m_x_15mm/
Sorry for the essay!
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| Freddyfruitba... |
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Freddyfruitba...
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| Posted: 19:00 - 05 Feb 2021 Post subject: Re: Security out and about |
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| Tuberculosis wrote: | | Fat_Angry_Scotsman wrote: | |
That's a really smart solution but looks to me like it can simply unbolted from the calliper? |
I suppose even if that's possible, the scrote will still be left with the device secure locked to the disk, ie much like a conventional disk lock which didn't start out attached to the calliper?
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TravisBickle
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| Freddyfruitba... |
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Freddyfruitba...
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| Posted: 19:46 - 05 Feb 2021 Post subject: |
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| NJD wrote: | | Tuberculosis wrote: | So back to using a single padlock. If one were to use this method only, where would be the best place to put it? Front brake disc seems to be favourite among most people but isn't the front wheel relatively quick and easy to remove? I'm thinking rear sprocket would be best but perhaps someone can correct me? |
The rear is preferable, but commonly overlooked as people see the words "disc lock" and conventionally go with the front (not that there's anything wrong with that). Its not that the front wheel can be removed, but rather lifted and therefore loaded into a van etc (IMO).
You may be able to place it on the rear sprocket or disc, but you wont know until you try: a lot it depends on the lock you have, but also the space on the rear sprocket / disc. |
Yes totally agree with this. My current 'out-and-about' lock of choice is a Xena disk lock, which predates my current ride; I always used to deliberately fit it to the rear disk on my last bike, but I was pissed off to discover that on my current bike (R1200RS) there's no way it will fit there, so front disk it is.
| Fat_Angry_Scotsman wrote: | I am yet to see a top-end ABUS, Oxford or Kryptonite lock that has kept the LockPickingLawyer (YouTube Channel) from picking the lock in any longer than 2 minutes. |
Yeah I was particularly disheartened to see that guy managed to get through the LiteLok (mentioned upthread, and which I've been considering myself) with wire cutters in just 16 seconds  : https://youtu.be/D-On0DGcDlc
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 4 years, 353 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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