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| wreckerman |
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wreckerman
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Fat Angry Scotsman
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Ste
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 Posted: 15:16 - 10 Feb 2021  Post subject: |
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| wreckerman wrote: | I recently picked up a Honda CB125T, |
When buying a bike, especially a learner-legal / 125, CONDITION IS ALL... and that's in the metal, clonking bearings to weeping filler caps metal, rather than the shiny bits.
I would be as concerned that some-one selling a bike with the V5 in their name was actually the legal owner... they hadn't just applied for a replacement V5 in their name for £25 from DVLA who are happy to get a name and address of some-one to send the money with menaces letters or collect the tax from! On a bike that they have 'borrowed' from a mate, or found in a field!
Changes to the Vehicle Registration/taxtion system n last couple of decades now mean that if a vehicle is registered to you as the 'keeper' you are liable to ensure that said vehicle is covered by mandatory 3rd party motor insurance, and is taxed o subject to 'SORN' or statutory off-road notification...
When a bike is registered with DVLA, they register the manufactrer's declared deals, vis make, model, engine cc, colour and VIN number.
There are SOME things on that registratio that may be changed; for example, if you re-paint it, then you can tell them the new colour; if you fit a new engine; you are supposed to tell them the new engine number; if you bore out the egne, you are supposed to tell them the new cc...
DVLA will usually, these days actually request 'evidence' to support the requested change of details; usually a letter headed letter from a reputable mechanic or authority like an owners club... which they may or may not accept... if they don't then they can 'suspend' registration pending a VIC or Vehicle Identity Check at a VOSA inspection center.
There's 30-million people in the UK; over half of them have a car-licence, and there are actually more registered and taxed cars than there are folk to drive them! There's only about 3 million bikes in the UK; and an awful lot more 'full' licence holders than there are bikes for them to ride. The actual 'market' for restriction kits for A2 compliant licence holders, is at best, PRETTY small.. 3 million motorcycles; half of them A1 class scooters and sub 125's. So around 1.5 million motorcycles, of which a lot will either be naturally A2 compliant, or ridden by RWYL 'A' licence holders to whom it don't matter. So how many A2 restriction kits is any-one ever going to sell in a year? The market is TINY, and the perms and coms of bikes they could buy and try to restrict many, and if they have to put almost every bike they may want to restrict on a Dyno to get 'proof-of-restriction' then, they are each going to have to bear a fairly large proportion of that development cost.
t is entirely possible to register a 'private import' from another country in the UK.... but there's a lot of bureaucratic red tape to jump through that wont make it the easiest job in the world, and it will STILL be more expensive to insure than an official UK imported model of the same type and age.... that though is your call. It s do-able, and I believe not particularly expensive; BUT the vehicle has to be insured and MOT'd before you can get it registered, and that gives you a Chicken and Egg situation to over come, and you will most likely NOT be able to get 'cheap'(er!) UK insurance from the usual stack-em-high, sell-em-cheap main-stream brokers, or off web-based comparison sites and their calculator bots... you need to do it the old fashioned way talking to real people... which probably excludes the call-center automatons from the high-street brokerages, who are probably in Bombay anyway!
The probability is, that if you try and do it via the web; you will very easily 'get' a policy, and for a more reasonable price, BUT, as soon as they have taken your money, they will send you the proposal pack in the post, and ask for things like a photo-copy of the UK registration document, and your UK driving licence, and when you don't send them,'cos you dont have them, or you try talking to a call-center munchkin, you will get 'reffered' and at best, they will demand a huge additional payment in 'adjustment', and/or they will just terminate the policy, and flag your name/address as having had insurance 'cancelled' on the brokers shared data-base, so you get red-flagged when you try anywhere else.....
Hence advice to make it as easy on yourself as you can and eliminate as many areas of constrnation before you begin; first by getting your licence straight and if a UK resident, getting a UK issued licence. Next, making sure bike you try and insure is UK registered, hence advice to dodge the added red-tape there, leaving the tranny at 'home', and getting an already UK registered bike, that's more London and UK insurance friendly, and STILL with no UK insurance history or No-Clams-Discount available, try dealing with real people not web-bots, ad still don't expect a 'Cheap' premium.
125's live hard lives! And they are generally owned by know-nothing 'learners' who know about as much about looking after them as they do riding them, and built down to a cost dis-proportionally still higher than their meager performance, performance... they are NOT the most durable machines in existence... ANY of them, let alone debating better QC'd Jap-Brand bikes vs the majority of Learner-Legals built down to an even lower quality level for the Asian markets in China!
The anticipated service life of a 125 is 'around' 7 years or 30K miles.. and many, particularly the lower quality generic chink made offerings, struggle to make even that, an awful lot are 'scrap' at thier first MOT at 3 years...
Little heads-up; many of the generic Chinese offerings are blagged through UK registration procedures on a few loop holes. Many are NOT sold as road going motorcycles, they are sold 'technically' as a box of spare-parts. They are even delivered as such, with instructions to put together, and then 'self registered' by the buyer for road use, on paperwork that declares them to be the same 'type' as already 'type-approved' to avoid SVA testing, and 'brand new', by the importer. It is a dodge to avoid new vehicle tax as well as retain the 3-year MOT exemption of a new vehicle.
The common 'con' though here is, the buyer doesn't always know this... they wheel aparently brand new 'road' bike out of a dealers, and believe they have bought a road-vehicle.. when in fact what they bought was a box of spares... and paid the dealer's mechanic to follow the assembly instructions to turn those bits into a motorbike, and then been given a bunch of paperwork, and told where to sign, for the dealer to post to DVLA in the buyer's behalf, to 'register' as a self-built vehicle!
And dealers have become a lot cuter at hiding that con, where they still employ it; BUT anything that sells for under £1500 'new' is likely still being blagged through the regs.
A lot of these self-registered, dealer assembled 'kit' bikes might struggle to pass a UK MOT the day they are given a number-plate... seriously, I have been brought bikes with delivery miles only on them, that have loose head-race bearings, handle-bars that foul the tank or snag cables, have loose wheel bearings, or missing chain guards, even in one case a missing ruddy split link ON the chain, among other obvious MOT failing faults!
"Take it back the dealer" advice is also not often all that useful in such cases; they argue that the bike was 'accepted' by the buyer... when it was just a kit of bits... what they have done to it since.. in 100 miles is down to them! And the 'warranty' only covers parts... not assembly.... so they may not get much joy having stuff fixed there; the warranty effectively may not be worth the paper its printed on, A-N-D you are reliant on thier good-will for anything... some MAY be helpful... but dont bank on it!
You have been warned!
Back on topic. In total, about 150,ooo 125 motorbikes in this country you might ride. Each has approximately a 7 year service life, and will on average be offered for sale about once every two years. So, 75,ooo 125's might make it into the market place each year.... barely half of them are likely to be advertised; they will instead be traded around works canteens and college car-parks. So you may find possibly 30,ooo bikes, every-where and anywhere from in dealer's showrooms, in the auto-trader, MCN small ads, and all the way down to post-cards in the news-agents, the length and breadth of the country.
At any one time? Well, more sell in the summer months, especially around college start time in September, and in the spring when the sun starts shining, maybe April/May time. But, on average? You will only ever have, maybe 2ooo 125's 'for-sale' in any month, and of them, probably barely 1ooo you will actually find advertised... of THEM... how many will be in expensive paid-for adds in the likes of Auto-Trader or MCN will be few, and you wont find many more in 'free' adds like Gumtree.. which is notorious for stolen bikes and scammers...
BUT that is where you should be looking.... getting the licence, NOT for more excuses to explain your crash, or dodge the licence any longer.
Go book a course, or just go book a test... stop telling us "Ah but I'm practising' for theory hazard, I'm practising for Mods.... GO DO THEM!
Fail tests.... you get a check-sheet that tells you exactly what you failed on, and cabn go put it right.... we dont get fuzzy-photos of broken metal, to try and guess at the causes from, let alone the cure....
Do you want to ride bikes?
Or do you want to spend your life finding excuses why you cant ride bikes?
Your call.
The 16" wheel debate is an old one. OTMH it was Bimota, who pioneered the idea, in the late 70's, early 80's, with 16" ers both ends.
At the time, motorbike tyres were universally cross-ply, and likely tubed, and usually in larger rim sizes, with 19" fronts and 18" rears common. Conventional wisdom, also advocated low centers of gravity, the BMW boxers aplauded for it, and long wheel-bases for 'stability', whilst 'slow-steering' was oft critasised, and blamed on large front wheels rather than large amounts of fork rake.
Vogue of the 16" front in the early 80's then was peculiarly vaunted as to quicken up steering, the smaller wheel having less gyroscopic effect.... BUT, after half a decade of back-pedaling on the advert-science of 16"ers, going back to 17" or 18" rims, the oiriginal '93 Fire-Blade, got rather unfashionable right-way-up forks and a 16" front wheel, and a specially developed tyre, ISTR from Bridghestone for it.
Curiousely the 16" front combo on the launch year Fire-Place has exactly the same rolling diameter as the earlier VF1000's 16incher suggested to make its handling rather 'twitchy'; but also the same rolling diameter as the 17" wheels and low-profile tyres used on things like GSXR's or FZR!
A-N-D the debate still rages.... and so much of the ad-science is still being regurgitated.
To regurgitate a bit more; Interestingly; when Honda launched the fire-place, they defended the use of the then retrograde 16" front wheel, with some quite pertinent propper science. It was a big leap, and one where they did have to get Bridgestone to developp a brand new tyres just for that bike. Basically their argument was that with the advent of radial tyres, the limits of making a tyre almost as tall in the side-wall as it was accross the tread, were peculiarly removed, and you could make a tyre almost any width and any diameter you liked... and using ever lower-profile tyres then, they reckoned was not 'such' a wonderful thing.
With less tyre side-wall taking out 'small' road-irregularities almost at source, it meant that the suspension system had more work to do, so a more conventional higher side-wall tyre COULD actually save having such a sensitive set of forks... so they could be better.... or lighter..... or cheaper....
The gyroscopic effect of the wheel, was also not so much dependent on the overall rolling diameter, but on the moment of intertia of the rotating assembly... ie how heavy the whole wheel was.
So a smaller wheel, with less heavy metal in it, and a bigger, lighter rubber tyre making up the same roling diameter should have less gyroscopic inertia, and change direction more easily... should also, being lighter, give less un-sprug mass, and again, give the suspension less work to do, so that could be more better/lighter/cheaper still.
In which there is more than a little sense... BUT, point is that the nominal rim diameter is but ONE specification, and one very small part of the over-all handling equation.
And I'm sure the debate over the rim diameter will contuinue....
However... shelving all that 'lore' and possible repitition distortion.... old rule of racing... "Before looking for more than standard, make sure you have all yuou should AS standard'
Honda has spenmt gazzillions on developing front ends for different bikes; they have the Yen, they have the man-power and they have the super-computers to do it.... true, big chunk of thier interest is in more 'cheaper' than more liughter or more better... but still... they chuck a heck of a lot of engineering hours and money at the job, and probably get it pretty close to 'right'... certainly they have a far better chance to get it closer to right than some oik in a shed with a halfrauds socket set....
So what are you looking to achieve?
The pertinent equation is Power = Drag x Speed, so how fast you go is set by how much power you have, and how much wind resistance there is. Mass only really comes into the equation, Force = Mass x Acceleration, so heavier the 'vehicle', slower it will accelerate, to whatever top speed its power will allow, but it should still get there.
Where bikes are 'slower' with a larger rider on them, it IS mainly because the rider is physically larger, not because they are heavier.
Drag is pretty much proportional to the 'frontal area' presented to wind resistance; and your heavier rider will tend to be taller and wider than a lighter one; so present more of a 'barn door' to the wind, like an air-brake.
But, wind resistance increases exponentially with speed; for an average sized rider, you only need about 3bhp to go 30mph; to go 60mph, you need about 9bhp, so three times the power to get twice the speed; but then it starts ramping much more steeply; 20bhp will get you to around 80, but you need about 30bhp to nudge 100. 60bhp will just about get you to 120.
But, point is that on a power limited 'learner-legal', you dont have the power to go much over 60 anyway, and under 60mph you are on a very shallow portion of the speed/power curve, where it wont really make massive difference... well, in real world mph.
You have to be an enthusiast to ride a bike; its too compromised, uncomfortable, and generally scary other wise, and if some-one HAS the enthusiasm to ride a bike.... they tend not to need much encouragement from other people, they'll do it for themselves... so if he's NOT done it for himself? Well, probably doesn't have the enthusiasm for it, and you are on a road to no-where trying to encourage him.
40bhp V-Twin, it can just about break into tripple figure speeds; its a very 'sweet' little motorcycle, and just about sets the base-line for a Cruiser that can tick the boxes.
Harley 883 'Piglet'. H-D's entry level cruiser, almost 900cc's of Evo Engine; aprox 50bhp and a top speed of just over 100mph; it's the 'baby' of the Harley Range, again, setting base line for a smaller cruiser.
Going up from there, you have huge range of more or less cruiserified bikes; and while engine size might go up, top speeds dont go up much; its not what they are about; the extra displacement and extra power is about making the motor's lazier, so they dont have to be worked so hard.
And with good reason; they are 'naked' motorcycles. Anything over about 90mph is a little bit breezy, and wind pressure is like having a small woman sitting on you're chest, and it gets tiring after a while; (Well, riding a naked motorcycle over 90mph... I think I can tolerate a small woman, better still a naked small woman sat on me for rather longer Wink) 100-110 you start getting buffeted by turbulance, which is uncomfortable; and much over that, you are hanging on, trying not to be a parachute.
Now, on my 'naked' street-bike, at speeds approaching triple figures, I'm sat in the 'hunter' riding position; like a horse rider, upright, back straight, bum over stirrups, and I can lean 'in' to the wind to take pressure off, or even adopt the 'Jockey' position, like a horse jockey, getting my head down and pushing my feet back, to make myself smaller and get out of a lot of that wind.
A 'Cruiser' tends to the 'lancer' riding position; feet-forwards, leaning back; which is comfortable... and great if you are 'tilting' and about to get hit by a lance... but... not so great at speed, as stretched to the handle-bars there's not a lot you can do to lessen the wind pressure., except slow down.
So the actual 'style' of cruisers, makes them just about 100mph motorcycles, regardless of what the specs might say.
As for 125's? Like I said, I don't class them as 'cruisers' they have the styling, but they are about as much a real 'cruiser' as a YZF-R125 is a real 'Super-Sports'. Has the 'look' but thats where the similarities stop.
Earlier I showed you a picture of my O/H's Chinese Cruiserette; a bike you actually had on your short list; the AJS Regal Raptor DD125E
If we are talking 125 Cruiserettes; well, as far as the Chinky ones go, it's by far not the worst. Build quality was pretty good for a Chink, and it's performance was not far off par. That one was a 2004 model I think, and pretty much a bolt for bolt clone of the Honda Rebel. Snowie had the original sales invoice which showed it cost nearly two grand, new, almost ten years ago; so it was far from a 'cheap' Chink, though it was about 2/3 the list price of Japanese build 125 Rebel.
The twin cylinder, single carb, over-head cam 'Benly' based motor, used in the Honda CM & CD 125's has always been criticised for being under-powered and over-complicated, against other 125's. I'm a Benly fan, and the critasism is a bit unfair, and the knockers have probably never ridden one and only looked at the specs, where, sure, compared to a CG125, numbers would make you ask 'why'. But, the little twin is a smooth motor, at low revs its not 'lumpy' like a single, and it has quite a bit more useful 'low' and 'mid-range' power.... not that any 125 is wonderfully endowed, BUT, the little twin does have the quality. And the Chinese Licence built version doesn't seem to have suffered so much in Chinese tolerence wandering or de-tuning to meet ever tighter EU emission controls as the singles.
But, like I said... real world, 55mph. That was its lot. And took a lot of cog-swapping to keep it up there.. wasn't really 'Cruising'! Put a grin on my face, I have to admit; sort of took me back to the 80's and old Jap bikes with unpredictable brakes tyres and suspension; approaching every bend with trepidation, and daring wondering how much you dare scrubb off to go round it!
The 'premier' Japanese 125 cruiserettes, no longer in any-ones catalogues as far as I know, were the Honda 125 Shaddow, that used the Veradaro's 125's V-Twin (Though actually that's probably other way about; Veradaro used Shaddow's engine) and was the most expensive 125 in Honda's range; likewise Yamaha's XV125 and Suzuki's 125 Intruder.
A freind of mine had a 125 Intruder for about three years till he paid off the finance... silly boy... larger lad, he liked it well enough and as long as he knew no better and had little else to compare it to. Real world? 'about' 60mph. Not worlds away from the Raptor.
EZ on here had the Suzuki 125 Marauder; which is the cruiserified 125 commuter single; again, not as 'refined' as the Intruder or the other twins, but very similar stats; again 'about' 55 flat out.
So, down to the generic Chinky Cruiserettes. Most are parts bin specials; confections of the various licence built Japanese bikes.
Common one, and I think Lexmoto sold a couple, used the twin-port CG copy engine in the copy Rebel frame; think it was badged 'Texan' or something like that. Gave it chunkier styling and twin exhaust pipes to look more like a twin, but wasn't. Again, top speeds claimed around 60-65, but utterly notional, real world 50-55, but the least refined engine in heaviest frame, not exactly brisk off the mark or wonderfully responsive.
Then there's the Nevada? Or similar generic Chinese Semi-Cruiserified commuters; CG copy engine, and probably CG frame with shorter shocks and longer forks to cruiserify it, like the Yamaha SR, and probably dressed out with generic tank and bodywork from SR copies. Again, less refined, and whatever the stats may say, usually around 60mph, real world 55ish.
The differences are not so much in how fast any of them MIGHT go as how comfortably they might do it, and bottom line is that ALL of them are going to be at thier performance limit trying to hold road-speed down an unrestricted 60mph road.
BUT... so would almost ANY genuinely learner-legal 125, certainly a four-stroke one.
Veradaro owners tend to be very enthusiastic about thier models performance and claim they can do and sustain 70 pretty well... I dont doubt them, though I allow a fair bit for newby nievity and speedo optimism, and owning a couple of genuine GPS checked 70mph four-stroke 125's.... well, you might hold an indicated 70 on a flat bit of by-pass reasonably well, but I'd deffer to the double-nickel and get in the truck-stack in the inside lane, to save a bit for head-winds and hills! while on an unclassified country road, with a 60 limit? I know that I'd be working the bike hard and being a bit brave come corners to keep speeds up near the blanket limit!
NO 125 is 'fast'. Even the fastest of the hot-snot 'fast' 125's the illegal on L-Plates full power two strokes, that might just about scare the 'ton'. Might be 'fast' compared to majority of L-Plate tiddlers, BUT... in wider biking world, you struggle to find much that's ACTUALLY that slow; they are about as powerful and as fast as an old Honda 250 commuter single!
So, your ambition of a 125 Cruiserette? Well, they are SLOW bikes. In a world of slow bikes.. they aren't THAT much slower than anything else. But, they don't 'cruise', and they take as much or more rider work to keep up as other styles of 125.
NOW... lot of mental machinations obviously going on, and you and your mate are obviously enjoying the imaginative adventure of exploring the possibilities... BUT
SUMMER'S BURNING BOYS
Stop Thinking - Start Riding.
You have to start some-where, and if cruisers are the 'style' of bike you like, and you want to do the 125 'thing' instead of going for an A2 and a bigger-bike.... GET THE FUCK ON WITH IT!
You'll find out what its all about quick enought once you DO IT.
And you'll probably find half your worries and ideas get blown out the window.
Off the blocks, as new riders, the bikes vital statistics ENT going to be the limiting factor, it will be your evolving skill levels; THIS is why we have 'Learner-Bikes' so you can go learn on one.
There are nicer ones and nastier ones, but for the most part, they are all adequete for the job, and only real worry is whether they are value for money doing it.
Stop deliberating; get your cash in a heap, and go see what you can ACTUALLY buy for it; cos unless you buy new, your choices will mainly be constricted by what people actually have to sell, as much as by what you might actually want.
And summer's wastin'!
No one wants to spend a lot of money on a 125... consequently there is an awful lot of shit out there that can wear an L-Plate, becouse people wont pay for a decent bike, and wont spend time or money on one if they happen to have it, or even are clued up enough to know how; they are learner bikes, so many dont know much at all.
If you want a 125 you have to pay to get a decent one.
And if you want a 'good start' they are worth it.
Most important bike you will buy. Yeah, big bikes are where you want to be, and we can deliberate till the cows come home whether a CBR600 ir better than a YZF600, and which has the better suspension or brakes.... bottom line is that on a bike like that YOU the average punter that buys one for the road will NEVER apreciate the small differences between them, let alone be able to exploit any small advantage they might have, YET these things are 'important' and get a lot of debate and consideration...
the 125 you learn on, the ONE bike where having decent wheels under your arse, so that while you are learning, any wobbling going on is down to YOU and you alone, not some unknown problem with the bikes suspension or steering or suspension; and putting it right isn't pissing in the dark, wondering if its a loose bolt, a worn tyre, a clapped out damper, or you doing something daft....
Get a GOOD 125, and only thing that can make it wobble is YOU.
Makes learning that much easier; makes it an awful lot nicer, makes it a heck of a lot more FUN.
When you have a licence and you have some idea what you are doing... THEN you can actually get away with a slightly more 'tired' bike, that doesn't behave itself so well, becouse you KNOW any wobbling going on at that point is down to the bike, not you!
If you want a good start and you want a 125... well they are, from the start compromised little bikes; compromised by low displacement, low powered engines; compromised by low weight and price constraints; you really dont want more or specifically more unnecessary compromises in a machine that is already hugely compromised.
So, get as good as you can afford.
And YES, buy prices are expensive. SO you have to find more money when you buy.
But buy prices are expensive. SO you'll get more money BACK when you sell....
Best Value For Money 'Training Tool' around at the moment is the Yamaha YBR125.
New they are nudging three grand; which is about 2/3 the price of some more 'posey' 125's like the Yamaha YZF R125 race replica, or the Cruiser style Dragstar, and still a fair bit cheaper than the dirt-bike style XT125.
It is, also three times the price of a generic Chinesebranded 'Bike in a Box'.... but difference is it will still be worth something after you have attached a number-plate and it WILL do 65mph!
Brand new, is the 'best' you can get as far as reliability and known oragin, and working as good as it should, with peace of mind that you have a warranty.
BUTY you pay heavily in depreciation, and a year in, a £2800 YBR is probably worth barely £2K... two years in it will be around £1700, and at three years, around £1500.
First MOT is due at three years, and three or four year old models, priced between £1000 and £1500, are about the vest valkue you can get in the learner legal market.
They have lost all that horrible depciation, and are a half the price they were new. They also have that first MOT to give some confidence that they haven't been thrashed to death in MOT exemption period, and at ABOUT halfd their anticipated service life, probably less than half anticipated life miles will tend to have enough life in them to still be pretty tought and solid and dependable, and not be too wobbly.
Means that buy-sell risk is low. Risk is they wont need much if any thing by way of expensive maintenence or repairs; they will work well for a year or so, and can be sold, for little loss on buy price, cost of ownership, very small, tending to negligible.
So, a £1500 YBR bought, ridden and sold within a year for £1300 costs just £200.
A £900 Chinese Bike in a Box, sold a year on, is lucky to fetch £500, so would have cost £400 and not been as nice to ride or own in the mean time.
A twenty year old CG125 that costs £400, could demand £400's worth of work to get it out of the delapidation of maintenence overdraft old learner-legal commuters so frequently drop into.... might sell for £400, so only cost £400 but still just as expensive as a Bike in a Box, and twice as expensive as a YBR.... abd big risk it wont fix, or if its not fixed, you will get a years intermittent use out of it for your money and have a pile of scrap left at the end of it.
There are few bargains about in the Learner Legal market; but there can be, if you are prepared to pay for them 'up-front'...
That YBR, bought for £1300 selling for £1100 costs you £200, and still leaves you enough cash to go get a very useful 'big-bike', if thats what you want.
So where should you go now?
Well, experience is good, but bad experience isn't! |
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Posted: 19:11 - 10 Feb 2021  Post subject: |
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Enjoy the front brake..  
____________________
CBT: 12/06/10, Theory: 22/09/10, Module 1: 09/11/10, Module 2: 19/01/11
Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S, 1979 MZ TS150.
Current: 1973 MZ ES250/2 - 18k, 1979 Suzuki TS185ER - 10k, 1981 Honda CX500B - 91k, 1987 MZ ETZ250 (295cc) - 40k, 1989 MZ ETZ251 - 51k. |
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| stinkwheel |
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist
Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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| Posted: 19:23 - 10 Feb 2021 Post subject: |
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Worth it for the motor though.
If you're on L-plates, just check it's actually learner legal. It may not be. Those fell into the gap where they dropped the learner legal limit from 250 to 125cc but hadn't applied a power limit. The T1 was good for about 85mph flat out, quicker than the 250 of the same year. I had one for a short spell and it was a flying machine. Should never have let it go.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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wreckerman
Derestricted Danger
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wreckerman
Derestricted Danger
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Fizzer Thou
World Chat Champion
Joined: 06 Aug 2011
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Posted: 21:19 - 10 Feb 2021  Post subject: |
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I also own a CB125T model,but a T2 version.Luckily,I bought it with the relevant documents.
https://i.postimg.cc/VLpSnHVB/CB125-T2-Project.jpg
If you are on f/b there is a page that is for the Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club.Otherwise,there are plenty of details if you just goggle it.They have a dating department and would be able to help in getting a correct date registration,instead of having to be given a 'Q' registration,which is not ideal.
There is a following for these little bikes and spare parts are to found from places like CMSNL and Dave Silver spares.
____________________
Just talk bikes.What else is there?
Always have a 'Plan B' |
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wreckerman
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Ste
Not Work Safe
Joined: 01 Sep 2002
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| Posted: 22:23 - 10 Feb 2021 Post subject: |
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CMSNL say they're still charging UK customers for EU VAT. 
They also say their courier will want an £11.50 admin fee from you. |
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wreckerman
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pepperami
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| Posted: 23:14 - 10 Feb 2021 Post subject: |
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Bhud
World Chat Champion
Joined: 11 Oct 2018
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| Posted: 00:03 - 11 Feb 2021 Post subject: |
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If I may suggest, you may get a lot of satisfaction from a subscription service called VJMC:
https://www.vjmc.com/
They can date it based on any information you have, and advise on how it should be registered.
Just saying this because they have in-depth knowledge, and their bi-monthly magazine is a delight. A heads-up for the VJMC for all owners of old Japanese bikes.
EDIT: Just realised Fizzer Thou has already mentioned VJMC. That should teach me to read all the posts before commenting. My eyes glazed over when I saw the Tef copy-and-paste. Anyway, sign up for VJMC, that's all. |
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wreckerman
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| Blah blah |
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Blah blah
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 4 years, 347 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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