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Engine locking then unlocking, then locking...etc...

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MG#43
Nova Slayer



Joined: 03 Mar 2007
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PostPosted: 12:44 - 03 Mar 2021    Post subject: Engine locking then unlocking, then locking...etc... Reply with quote

Hi all, hope everyone is all good and looking forward to spring!

Got a weird one...weird to me anyways...

My engine and cams are out of my bike.

On turning the crank by hand it locks up after about 20 secs of sitting still. I then need apply alot more pressure using a wrench and it turns happily for as long as i wish to sit and turn it for. But if i stop it locks up again but oddly only after about 20 secs... After 1-20 secs it seems ok, but after this it's locked. It's like something is slowly returning to a position after these seconds where it gets stuck.

It did the same thing with the transmission removed so to me seems clear bottom end is damaged somehow but i can't explain why it will free up then lock again... As mentioned cams removed so timing and valves are not at fault in terms of the engine turning (my view).

Anyone dealt with something similar...?

Thanks!! Smile
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 12:53 - 03 Mar 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

So all you are turning is the crank and pistons? Everything else is disconnected?
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Weisse Schlange
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PostPosted: 13:18 - 03 Mar 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just sounds like overcoming the friction on the rings to me.
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MG#43
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PostPosted: 13:34 - 03 Mar 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Polarbear wrote:
So all you are turning is the crank and pistons? Everything else is disconnected?


thanks for reply.

correct.

When i put the bike back together (did some bottom end work), the bike just clicked once at the point of starting. With everything else checked, it turned out that the engine would not turn over, so I soaked in wd and rotated from the magneto side and it started moving, but as mentioned, you stop turning it, it locks up. while its like this it wont start unless i move the crank to ensure its not in the compression stroke, then it would start (intially i had to use a car battery for the extra cranking amps). I thought it would clear after running for a few mins but back to sq 1.

thanks
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 14:01 - 03 Mar 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is the timing for the cams correct?
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 14:04 - 03 Mar 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

And it's nothing to do with the oil pump?
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MG#43
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PostPosted: 14:15 - 03 Mar 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
And it's nothing to do with the oil pump?


thanks, no i don't believe so, the oil pump is connected to a gear on the back of the clutch basket... when the basket was out the same was seen, when it's in still the same....

unless you are referring to why it locked in the first place, the engine locking started before i got it running as it would not start etc....
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steve the grease
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PostPosted: 14:15 - 03 Mar 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Was this bike running , or is it a project. It sounds to me like you need to do a bit more stripping down , the barrels off at least, if its not just going tight because of ' sticktion' you need to find out exactly what is causing the problem , maybe the bore needs a quick hone, maybe one of the rings is gummed , maybe one of the bearings is jamming . Without a more thorough stripdown you will never know.
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MG#43
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PostPosted: 14:26 - 03 Mar 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

steve the grease wrote:
Was this bike running , or is it a project. It sounds to me like you need to do a bit more stripping down , the barrels off at least, if its not just going tight because of ' sticktion' you need to find out exactly what is causing the problem , maybe the bore needs a quick hone, maybe one of the rings is gummed , maybe one of the bearings is jamming . Without a more thorough stripdown you will never know.


i hear you steve, but I'm in new territory here, thats my next step as for now i consider it pretty shagged.

The engine was fine before, only a gear selection issue was present. The only thing that makes sense to me is the cam chain slipped while it was being worked on upside down, when it was all put back together the auto adjuster had come out to take the extra slack, then when the engine rotated created a tight cam chain which then when rotating further created a ring or conrod bend. Still doesn't account for the fact you push past this and it seems ok until you leave it again...
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MarJay
But it's British!



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PostPosted: 14:38 - 03 Mar 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like it could be hydraulic lock. Maybe there is liquid petrol building up on the inlet valves, and turning the crank allows the petrol in, and then it seeps past the rings allowing you to turn it again? That's my first thought, could be nonsense, but it was nevertheless what popped into my head.

Sounds bad to me anyway.
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MG#43
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PostPosted: 14:52 - 03 Mar 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:
Sounds like it could be hydraulic lock. Maybe there is liquid petrol building up on the inlet valves, and turning the crank allows the petrol in, and then it seeps past the rings allowing you to turn it again? That's my first thought, could be nonsense, but it was nevertheless what popped into my head.

Sounds bad to me anyway.


thanks, I've read about this, but i think once it frees up it should spit out what ever was above the pistons out via (in general) the spark plugs holes from where it was put in, anti-cease liquid, fuel, wd40 etc... but I think you're onto something with the way it takes a bit of time to lock again, but now the cams are removed there's no real compression as you would expect, so although the valves are in situ they are not opening and closing.... so you rotate it the 'liquid' moves around, when it's left to settle it seeps down then creates another hydro lock...?
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 15:10 - 03 Mar 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the cams are out what have you done with the cam chain?

What engine is it?
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MG#43
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PostPosted: 15:44 - 03 Mar 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:
If the cams are out what have you done with the cam chain?

What engine is it?


cam chain still in situ via a prop, the bottom case cover is removed so i can see what's going on underneath... gsxr 750. thx
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 16:07 - 03 Mar 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you removed the plugs?
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MG#43
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PostPosted: 16:19 - 03 Mar 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:
Have you removed the plugs?


yes sir
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A100man
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PostPosted: 17:36 - 03 Mar 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

with no tension on the cam chain it 'could' be getting snagged up

I'd have that out too.. they're cheap enough to replace, then the head off.. then the barrels.. process of elimination it has to be right?
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MG#43
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PostPosted: 18:25 - 03 Mar 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

A100man wrote:
with no tension on the cam chain it 'could' be getting snagged up

I'd have that out too.. they're cheap enough to replace, then the head off.. then the barrels.. process of elimination it has to be right?


agreed, will take the chain and head off tomorrow (likely if I'm feeling brave).

I'm slightly worried that even that might not show anything so I'm close to balls deep in and i'll know no more!! ha!! My point is if its bearing, ring or barrel scoring, will i be able to identify this? Guess there's no other way to find out right!>?? Shocked Rolling Eyes
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steve the grease
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PostPosted: 19:29 - 03 Mar 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

About the worst it could be is a roller bearing where one of the rollers has a flat on it and jams rather than turning, once turning it will carry on turning , yeah , it's unlikely , but it does happen.
You mention that it's pretty ' shagged', I think its likely that once the top end is off you will have a free running bottom end , if you don't and it's still stiff you've got problems.

My best bet is a plantpot shaped bore ( the classic wear pattern) and a jammed, broken or gummed ring(s). If that's the case don't use caustic ( oven cleaner aerosol) on aluminium it eats it. Boil the piston in a pan to free the rings off , then scrape all the crap off with scrapers , scissors, scrubber dubber pads, sharpened electrical screwdriver etc etc. Let us know how you get on.
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Lone-Wolf
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PostPosted: 19:40 - 03 Mar 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wotcha.

Yep - roller bearings can have individual rollers fail.

https://www.moonshiners.org.uk/LWMEimages/weekend2014/2014week25.jpg
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A100man
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PostPosted: 11:14 - 04 Mar 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

An interesting investigative workshop thread - how refreshing.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



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PostPosted: 12:19 - 04 Mar 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lone-Wolf wrote:
Wotcha.

Yep - roller bearings can have individual rollers fail.

https://www.moonshiners.org.uk/LWMEimages/weekend2014/2014week25.jpg


The races can become peened in one position too.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fXiPbicHodj-pzvoM8aUIcc-hGPbOfE7ujtlqV3MO55mAmgx_onpFWjX2tsBGW0VFtGwJ8D4HTB62pd2OAZ3JkHiGGCFwGxJyoYQtzPe5cZ--V7KaUfK8Hz6Os6LgH6MQhZuGYMEKrjDEGLb8WvJR3=w1335-h1002-no
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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steve the grease
Crazy Courier



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PostPosted: 21:11 - 04 Mar 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

I believe this ' bearing surface failing' thing is called 'spalling, it generates lots of tiny flakes of metal, not what you want really. Hopefully its a bore problem....
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I've been riding, and fixing , bikes for 50 years, in that time the more I learn, the less I am absolutely sure of.....
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pepperami
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PostPosted: 08:53 - 05 Mar 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

steve the grease wrote:

My best bet is a plantpot shaped bore ( the classic wear pattern) and a jammed, broken or gummed ring(s). If that's the case don't use caustic ( oven cleaner aerosol) on aluminium it eats it. Boil the piston in a pan to free the rings off , then scrape all the crap off with scrapers , scissors, scrubber dubber pads, sharpened electrical screwdriver etc etc. Let us know how you get on.


Worthwhile thread: I knew this from years ago and had forgotten it.
Thank you for reminding me of something that could be very important Thumbs Up Thumbs Up
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mentalboy
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PostPosted: 00:59 - 06 Mar 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

MG#43 wrote:
With everything else checked, it turned out that the engine would not turn over, so I soaked in wd and rotated from the magneto side


Why the WD-40 or should the question be 'where are you putting it'? Engine oil is usually the best bet for an engine that you're hoping not to strip again.
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MG#43
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PostPosted: 13:10 - 06 Mar 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

mentalboy wrote:
MG#43 wrote:
With everything else checked, it turned out that the engine would not turn over, so I soaked in wd and rotated from the magneto side


Why the WD-40 or should the question be 'where are you putting it'? Engine oil is usually the best bet for an engine that you're hoping not to strip again.


so engine locks up but after some heavy pushing on the crank shaft, generator side it will give then crank over normally. If you leave it for about 20 secs or more you will need to apply the same force to get it to turn over, while you keep it rotating its fine until you stop and leave it again.. the transmission and cams are not in situ and its still the same. I've bought and installed another engine so bike working again, but will take the head off the other engine on monday to see if i can see anything from the top side of the block/pistons to see if i can spot what it is.... suspect i may not see anything from the top half so may need to strip the bottom half and start removing the pistons... There's some sense in the 20 secs being the period it takes for some hydro lock type situation, however with no plugs, cams or exhaust fitted you would expect to see this flow or spit through something... but not... thanks for responses all!!
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