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Motorbike accessory fuse box, wut one?

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NJD
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Joined: 11 Mar 2015
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PostPosted: 16:16 - 14 Mar 2021    Post subject: Motorbike accessory fuse box, wut one? Reply with quote

Hi,

I'm on the hunt (to put on the "watch list;" ie: not needed urgently) for a pre-made motorbike accessory fuse box. I've discovered this one made by Denali, but it has a few reviews slating quality of parts; and combined with the rather huge price tag for what it is I'm not sure its the right one to invest in.

I'd like a pre-made one that wires to the battery and then the option for a switched-live (ie: not always on) as the Denali does (although it also has the option for things to be always on) because my desire to learn how to solder, tap into wires etc is non-existent: wiring annoys me. I understand you connected the + and - accessory to the fuse box and then they work via that (fuses I already have).

Heated grips is the only thing constantly wired in, with a sat-nav being used occasionally. A Denali Sound-Bomb may also be purchased in the future (requires wiring), but so long as the fuse board has capacity for extra future investments then I can tackle that as and when.

I'd expect the box to be removeable in the future to be sold or transferred to another bike if ever needed.

So, in summary: plug and play accessory fuse box required that's decent quality and costs less than £100. If you've actually got what you recommend on your bike with a photo or two even better.

Thanks.
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P.
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Joined: 14 Feb 2008
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PostPosted: 20:28 - 14 Mar 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did a DIY one with molex connectors wired in. Was solid.
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NJD
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Joined: 11 Mar 2015
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PostPosted: 22:47 - 14 Mar 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paddy. wrote:
I did a DIY one with molex connectors wired in. Was solid.


All of my very limited memories based around attempting to fix wiring, or soldering, are not fond ones. Laughing

For reference I also found one sold by "nippynormans" called Fuzeblock that's better reviewed and a little bit cheaper; and then of course there are ones on eBay for around £10-15 called "6 way fuse box" but I doubt I trust them not to set fire to my bike. Laughing

I'm gonna el-cheapo it out with battery ring terminals until I feel richer or have looked into how to make one fruther.

Thanks for the response. Thumbs Up Karma
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 23:08 - 14 Mar 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use a thing like this so i have a relay controlled supply and fused spurs. You do however have to wire it in.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Relay-3-Fuse-Base-Kit-4-5-PIN-Flasher-Relays-ATO-Fuses-Holder-Socket-Box/180739111864?hash=item2a14e3fbb8:g:1PkAAMXQLbVRbWH0
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1198
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PostPosted: 09:12 - 15 Mar 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why do you want heated grips permanently live? That sounds like a recipe for bump starting practice to me.
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NJD
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PostPosted: 10:33 - 15 Mar 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

1198 wrote:
Why do you want heated grips permanently live? That sounds like a recipe for bump starting practice to me.


I meant that their the only thing that is permanently left on the bike. They are directly connected to the battery, but they have a relay on the live wire and the smart controller has a low battery function where it flashes green and cuts power if/when it sees fit so does no harm being connected via ring terminals (as three bikes and the a few years of use have proven).

The sat-nav I just un-plug at the connector block each time I stop in its current form (although its hardly used per yer).

Looking at the Sound-Bomb horn (and any future investments) made me realise two terminals is probably enough and its time to re-wire and get some sort of accessory box, eventually. Thumbs Up
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Hong Kong Phooey
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PostPosted: 09:36 - 17 Mar 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do it properly, if you can wire the box to the battery then it's only one extra step to connect a switched live for signaling the relay to come on.

I relied on the built in circuitry to switch off my Oxford hot grips, it worked a few times until it didn't. Then I had a flat battery but luckily got a jump start off a colleague.

Next day I ordered 5 pin relay and completed the job properly.
No flat battery since.

Reference courtesy of stinkwheel.
https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=44421
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NJD
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PostPosted: 19:18 - 17 Mar 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hong Kong Phooey wrote:
Do it properly


I have, but instead of wiring the negative to a frame ground and the live into a switched live I went with the lazy option of putting it straight onto the battery. Works fine IME. I appreciate the advice, but I'm not going to wire in a relay to a product that doesn't need one.

~

I have since ordered the Fuzeblocks gadget and wiring harness (which being sold separate is a bit of a con, but I'll pay for the convenience of having it all pre-made).

Based on the below wiring diagram I understand the blue wire on the rear tail / brake light to be a switched live so plan to tap into that on the wiring loom side (as opposed to the side that comes out of the bulbs and plugs into the loom side).

Picture of wiring below diagram (from last time I was in that area, not recently).

One thing I do need advice on is how do I know what amp fuse to put into the Fuzeblocks board? I appreciate it all depends on what's wired into that circuit (sat-nav on one, grips on another etc) but based on that how do I know what one is suitable?

https://i.postimg.cc/wBwbZmrb/Corrected-Haynes-Fzs600-98-99-Wiring-diagram-colour.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/0ynzgk0B/20200822-132958.jpg
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