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Ducati hydraulic clutch help please

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steve the grease
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PostPosted: 18:20 - 06 Apr 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ducati-Brembo-Clutch-Master-Cylinder-Seal-Kit-Rebuild-Panigale-1098-61041991A-/183497835836


Or similar.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 18:31 - 06 Apr 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bleeding stuff.

There is some evidence that suggests a vacuum pump will do a better job of bleeding than applying pressure.
The vacuum makes any air bubbles in the system bigger (when atmospheric pressure is removed by the vacuum pump).
Bigger bubbles clump together easier.
Bigger bubbles are less inclined to adhere to the surfaces of the system.
Then the big bubbles can be displaced by fluid.
Mitivac is a tool that uses that principle.
Kind of expensive if you don't plan to use it often there are cheaper clones but there are not so robust.
I use Gunson Ezibleed. It's a bottle that you 1/2 fill with new fluid.
Apply a little air pressure to the top of the bottle.
Attach to the 'top' of the system via the supplied cap.
The hose tap is opened to the fluid on the system.
And the system bled as per OEM order.

Some folk critical about applying air pressure to the fluid. For fear of air dissolving into the fluid.
But the pressure is only on the fluid for a few minutes so air ingress is negligible.
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DUCAUDI
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PostPosted: 20:18 - 06 Apr 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you everyone so much for all your input.



MCN wrote:
I use Gunson Ezibleed.


I actually bought the same kit from Halfords just yesterday but only ended up using the length of hose from the kit as I have a rectangular shaped master cylinder and all the caps supplied in the kit were round. The kit is clearly more aimed for use with cars although would probably work on a bike if the master cylinder was one of those round ones. So for me, it was a fucking expensive length of hose!!!



Robby wrote:
This is one of the reasons why brake fluid needs to be replaced frequently.


Yeah defo! We haven't had the bike long, less than a year, but by the looks of the gunge that was in the master cylinder reservoir no wonder it stopped working! Was either blocked or just ineffective from the mud or water or air in there or a combination of all three. The whole system from master to slave has been completely flushed now though so should be good for a couple of years Thumbs UpThumbs UpThumbs Up



So I got the necessary bits today (some new crush washers, a syringe etc.) and reverse bled the system. Wasn't getting any joy with it the lever/piston was still giving no resistance at all. Squirted another load through and kept emptying the reservoir to fill it up again by reverse bleeding. Done that and emptied the reservoir several times. No joy. Then finally reverted back to the other method of pumping the lever and opening the nipple with the lever held in. Done this for AGES and EVENTUALLY started to get some resistance back. So all seems to be working again now so I want to thank you all so much, would have gone to the shop without all your help so I really appreciate it!
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MCN
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PostPosted: 20:35 - 06 Apr 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tuberculosis wrote:
Thank you everyone so much for all your input.



MCN wrote:
I use Gunson Ezibleed.


I actually bought the same kit from Halfords just yesterday but only ended up using the length of hose from the kit as I have a rectangular shaped master cylinder and all the caps supplied in the kit were round. The kit is clearly more aimed for use with cars although would probably work on a bike if the master cylinder was one of those round ones. So for me, it was a fucking expensive length of hose!!!



Robby wrote:
This is one of the reasons why brake fluid needs to be replaced frequently.


Yeah defo! We haven't had the bike long, less than a year, but by the looks of the gunge that was in the master cylinder reservoir no wonder it stopped working! Was either blocked or just ineffective from the mud or water or air in there or a combination of all three. The whole system from master to slave has been completely flushed now though so should be good for a couple of years Thumbs UpThumbs UpThumbs Up



So I got the necessary bits today (some new crush washers, a syringe etc.) and reverse bled the system. Wasn't getting any joy with it the lever/piston was still giving no resistance at all. Squirted another load through and kept emptying the reservoir to fill it up again by reverse bleeding. Done that and emptied the reservoir several times. No joy. Then finally reverted back to the other method of pumping the lever and opening the nipple with the lever held in. Done this for AGES and EVENTUALLY started to get some resistance back. So all seems to be working again now so I want to thank you all so much, would have gone to the shop without all your help so I really appreciate it!


Aww... I forgot to say you might have to find a spare cap to drill and fit the hose fitting in.
That what I did for a triumph I owned.
Brakes are a Bastirt.
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DUCAUDI
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PostPosted: 20:40 - 06 Apr 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

I EVEN managed to fit the new Oberon slave cylinder that my bike mechanic said he couldn't do.

He just seemed reluctant to do the necessary modifications to the push rod in order to make it work.

As I mentioned before the reason for the Oberon slave cylinder was it was recommended to me some time back by a fellow BCF member because originally the clutch was VERY grabby (in hindsight maybe that could have had partly something to do with the poor state of the fluid in there) but I was told that's pretty much normal for Ducatis but because we bought this bike for my wife to do her DAS on we didn't want her having to struggle with a non-beginner-friendly grabby clutch and apparently the Oberon slave cylinder makes this a lot better.

So the guy fitted it for us a while back but IIFC it wouldn't go into gear. It was like the clutch was held in all the time. The reason he gave for this was the push rod was too short, we either needed a longer push rod or to add a small length or rod in there or a ball bearing just to increase the length and that should sort it. But he wasn't willing or didn't seem to have the inclination to try to help us so just reverted it back to stock for us.

However, now I've had the thing apart and I THINK I understand how it works now... thinking back to what he said about the rod being too short surely doesn't make sense??? If anything, because the bike was in neutral the whole time, surely that's because the rod was pushed in all the way even when the clutch lever wasn't being pulled. So if anything surely that meant the stock push rod was too LONG, not too short???

I even emailed Oberon about it at the time and even they said some random models need a longer push rod or a ball bearing inserted to make it work as this is a generic part that fits shit loads of Ducatis, not just the 696.

So anyway I put my theory into practise and shaved about 10mm off the end of the push rod with it in situ and rounded off the burrs to make a bit of a chamfer like how it was originally.

I had already ordered a new push rod from eBay last night for only £12 which has already been dispatched, as I had planned to do the modifications and cut part of the new push rod to use an extender piece. But now it's apparent I'm not going to need that as I had to make the rod shorter, not longer, but at least I'll have an original length push rod just in case I need to revert back to the OEM slave cylinder if this modification doesn't work.

Put the whole thing back together again and it appears to work, it appears to sit in neutral and bite in gear when you release the clutch. Still on my driveway in pieces at the moment but promising. Will put the rest back together and take it out later to test it's working fully ok.
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DUCAUDI
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PostPosted: 21:18 - 06 Apr 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok it bites but doesn't engage fully. Maybe it needs more to be shaved off the push rod.

But what does this brass grub screw do? Does this adjust the biting point? Maybe unscrewing this would fix it?

It's too late now I've locked it up and packed my tools away but will have at it again tomorrow.

https://i.ibb.co/54XVN1G/20210406-211146.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/5LCwMYz/20210406-211137.jpg
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Robby
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PostPosted: 00:07 - 07 Apr 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

It took 2 pages of a thread for you to bleed the clutch - a fairly standard maintenance procedure.

Cutting down clutch parts randomly to make something work is a whole different thing. Remember the slave cylinder only has about 3-5mm of total travel. You need to be exact on your measurements of the push rod.

The oberon item is used to give a lighter clutch feel. I learnt about Ducati clutches from fitting one to another BCFers bike. It span the slave cylinder, ruined the seals, and wouldn't ever bleed. I'm not a fan of them.

I would be minded to get it working on the standard cylinder. You may just have to get a taller wife.
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DUCAUDI
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PostPosted: 00:53 - 07 Apr 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby wrote:
It took 2 pages of a thread for you to bleed the clutch - a fairly standard maintenance procedure.


To be fair it wasn't that straight forward, I think the master cylinder was blocked in the first place, hence the continued trial and failure. Every time you learn something new there's a learning curve though and I'm sure it would be a lot quicker and easier for me next time.



Robby wrote:
Remember the slave cylinder only has about 3-5mm of total travel. You need to be exact on your measurements of the push rod.


That's a fair point, I must admit I just did it by eye but I can always get another push rod (and have one on its way to me in the post already), they're fairly inexpensive at less than £20 each on eBay, if necessary I'm happy to keep trying with new push rods until I get it right. The clutch was SO grabby originally, apart from the low seat height and weight of the bike being ideal for a learner, that grabby clutch just really made the bike totally inappropriate for a learner, but I didn't know about this until I had already done the deal and rode the bike away from the previous owner's house. From sight though it looked more like 10mm of travel, not 3-5mm.

I used to work in an engineering workshop and still have friends who work there. They have the tools to cut a push rod down to within a thou of an inch (I'm sure it doesn't need to be that exact, trial and error taking off 1mm at a time would suffice I'm sure).



Robby wrote:
I would be minded to get it working on the standard cylinder.


Bit late for that now the rod has already been cut, although I could go back to the original slave cylinder when the push rod comes in the post. At least the way I've done it (admittedly by chance rather than by design) it looks like I haven't taken quite enough off, that's better than taking too much off and having to start from scratch with a new push rod. In fact thinking about it, using this is a starting point, the workshop probably isn't necessary, I could just gradually grind small bits off at a time until the gears engage fully.



Robby wrote:
You may just have to get a taller wife.


ALWAYS on the lookout for another future ex-Mrs Bickle!
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Last edited by DUCAUDI on 01:12 - 07 Apr 2021; edited 2 times in total
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DUCAUDI
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PostPosted: 00:59 - 07 Apr 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Going back to my last two photos though does that little brass screw do the same thing that one of these does on a cable system?

https://cf.shopee.com.my/file/9f1fe9b84e489ebb83195272c3de9602

If so, it's screwed all the way in, presumably winding it out a bit should get the gears to engage slightly more. Worth a try in the morning...
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Robby
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PostPosted: 19:24 - 07 Apr 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

On a cable operated clutch, the point of the adjusters is to take up slack in the cable to keep the clutch operating correctly as the cable stretches.

The whole advantage of hydraulic clutches is that you don't need to adjust them. Also means you can't adjust them. The only adjustment you have is lever position, done with the big lever span adjuster turny thing.

If the system is bled properly and working, with clean fluid that is able to move around, the biting point will be wherever Ducati decided to put it. Somewhere in the middle of the lever travel.

Also, the clutch will probably be a lot less grabby on the standard cylinder now that the fluid can move around properly. Sludge makes everything shit.
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DUCAUDI
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PostPosted: 20:31 - 07 Apr 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool thanks for tolerating my ignorance and giving me some help Thumbs UpThumbs UpThumbs Up

I did already try releasing that brass screw though and it did have the effect I expected it to, it did move the push rod ever so slightly and allow the gears to engage fully (although now the gearbox rattles in neutral which it didn't do before). I take your point though it's probably a bodge to fix the problem so will fine-tune it at a later date by shaving a bit more off the push rod and setting that brass screw somewhere in the middle like it was before.

FWIW it still feels a bit grabby.

Took the bike half way down the road to test it and the front brakes jammed on. Here we go again! Got the wife to run the van down to me with the tools in the back and tried removing the callipers so at least the bike could be moved (the front brakes were like they were welded on so hard it wouldn't budge an inch, instead all the bike wanted to do was burnouts). Got some of the bolts off but ended up breaking my torx T40 bit from my 1/2" Britool Expert set. Not happy. Thought these were supposed to be quality tools? Checked the Britool website and it now appears Britool have merged with French company Facom Sick Gonna buy Strap-On from now on!

To be honest, a complete brake overhaul is probably something I'd rather have my mechanic do so yeah, managed to get the bike to his shop with both callipers half hanging off (because I broke my only T40 bit and couldn't get the rest of the bolts off) and have left it there so he's got a nice little surprise when he gets to work in the morning.
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NJD
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PostPosted: 21:25 - 07 Apr 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Probably sensible to hand it over at this point. I'd go for mechanical neglect over anything suddenly breaking. In my limited experience (comparative to others) I see little reason, or an obvious cause, as to why breaks would physically jam on beside regular cleaning being avoided.

Its with your friend, anyway, and so speculation or comment is near pointless. Thumbs Up

Tuberculosis wrote:
Gonna buy Strap-On from now on!


Wouldn't even bother. Snap-on are good at marketing and being visually appealing, but beyond that what's the point but to remove money from the pockets of those that have a lot of it with not a lot of sense to go with it? Sure its nice to have nice things but if your not in the trade then the whole appeal of Snap-On vanishes (plus I see endless comments from people about "warrenty issues" on their social media posts recently). The only reason I'd get anything Snap-On related is because I purchased it from eBay or Cash Converters.

Personally I'd look at Halfords for the home user. Their tools are not unbreakable, but their a whole lot more "visit-able" than a van (so long as you keep the receipt - get an email copy too).

You could get a 200 piece socket set and whatever you need via thier modular tray range for probably a fraction of what anything similar in snap-on would cost new.

Plus if your mate has a trade card for Halfords you could ask him to go along and use that on your visit. Thumbs Up

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DUCAUDI
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PostPosted: 21:29 - 07 Apr 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

I take your point. When I say Strap-On (or Snap-On, if you insist!) I'm probably more likely to buy Blue Point as the prices are FAR more affordable. Not sure how the warranty works with Blue Point though, is it the same as Strap-On just take it to the van for a no hassle replacement with no receipt required? I'm not good at keeping receipts and relocating them years later!
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MCN
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PostPosted: 13:34 - 09 Apr 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Snap On aye get a bad trip from nae sayers who probably don't have to rely on tools.
As far as my experience with tools goes.
Snap On possibly carry the most extensive range of tools.
99.9% of the tools they make are hard to beat as far as performance and craftsmanship in manufacturing.

They began making aircraft mechanic tools and developed from there.

There are alternatives but I would always buy snap on.
The main criticism is that they seem to only be sold from vans. Never in the shops. Weird.
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DUCAUDI
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PostPosted: 13:51 - 09 Apr 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

What about Blue Point? How do they compare? And is the warranty the same?
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MCN
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PostPosted: 15:47 - 09 Apr 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tuberculosis wrote:
What about Blue Point? How do they compare? And is the warranty the same?


I can't remember what the deal is between Snap On and Blue Point but they are as good as Snap On. Possibly another manufacturer that snap on partnered with.

Sometimes partnerships happen where companies compliment each other.

Possibly a bit cheaper as they could be a little more 'industrial' rather than pretty. Very Happy

Edit: https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/cms/Corporate-Info
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DUCAUDI
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PostPosted: 21:49 - 09 Apr 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:
I can't remember what the deal is between Snap On and Blue Point but they are as good as Snap On. Possibly another manufacturer that snap on partnered with.

Sometimes partnerships happen where companies compliment each other.

Possibly a bit cheaper as they could be a little more 'industrial' rather than pretty. Very Happy

Edit: https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/cms/Corporate-Info


The way I understood it was that Blue-Point is just the budget line of Snap-On. Maybe I'm wrong? But thinking a bit like the relationship between Givi and Kappa?

One thing I have noticed while browsing the Snap-On website is most of the Snap-On stuff is WAY expensive but also tends to be just one-piece items. Whereas the Blue-Point stuff tends to be more sets in boxes.

Maybe the Snap-On branded stuff is more aimed at the professional mechanic looking to fill his (or her!) Snap-On tool chest with individual pieces whereas the Blue-Point stuff is more aimed at home users wanting quality but not at the outrageous Snap-On prices?
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Shaft
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PostPosted: 23:09 - 09 Apr 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tuberculosis wrote:
MCN wrote:
I can't remember what the deal is between Snap On and Blue Point but they are as good as Snap On. Possibly another manufacturer that snap on partnered with.

Sometimes partnerships happen where companies compliment each other.

Possibly a bit cheaper as they could be a little more 'industrial' rather than pretty. Very Happy

Edit: https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/cms/Corporate-Info


The way I understood it was that Blue-Point is just the budget line of Snap-On. Maybe I'm wrong? But thinking a bit like the relationship between Givi and Kappa?

One thing I have noticed while browsing the Snap-On website is most of the Snap-On stuff is WAY expensive but also tends to be just one-piece items. Whereas the Blue-Point stuff tends to be more sets in boxes.

Maybe the Snap-On branded stuff is more aimed at the professional mechanic looking to fill his (or her!) Snap-On tool chest with individual pieces whereas the Blue-Point stuff is more aimed at home users wanting quality but not at the outrageous Snap-On prices?


Nope, you're absolutely right Blue Point is division 2 Snap On and always has been. BP stuff typically comes with a 12 month warranty and you're also right in that they tend to do multi purpose sets and you can tell the quality isn't the same, because the boxes aren't particularly hard wearing, nor are the tools.

Unfortunately, Snap On isn't what it used to be either - they've been on the aquisition trail in the last few years and they now manufacture outside the USA, with a resultant dropping of quality.

Worst of all, quite a few of their power tools (air and electric) are now branded BP, so no lifetime warranty and not great service back up, eg we have a transmission jack that won't hold pressure and they can't fix it, because they can't get the parts; probably 10 years old, but it's not exactly used every day and it was bloody expensive.

The real advantage of Snap On now, is that most (if not all) of the dealers offer interest free credit, which is especially handy when everything you buy is 3 times more expensive than it should be.

Frankly, I would look elsewhere if you want tools to stock a DIY toolbox (don't even start me on the price of SO toolboxes, farking joke money).

You've dissed Britool because they are part of Facom, but there's nothing at all wrong with Facom (lots of F1 teams use them and they don't mess about) and besides, they've both been part of Stanley Black & Decker for 15 years.

Quite honestly, Halfords Pro range is good enough for most people - I've got SO at work and Halfords at home and I can't fault the Halfords stuff; fits precisely enough, lifetime warranty and I haven't managed to break or scratch anything yet.
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Islander
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PostPosted: 00:03 - 10 Apr 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've got a Teng Tool 26 piece combination spanner set and really can't fault the quality. Expensive but worth it IMO.
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steve the grease
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PostPosted: 02:17 - 10 Apr 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm agreeing with ' Shaft' here. The whole snap on model works on getting young mechanics signed up for credit for a fucking massive tool box and tools, and them calling in and getting payments every week for ....ever. They can't be bothered to stop at my place because I just spend £50 on replacing lost/ broken stuff and pay for the stuff I have. Like these so called car warehouses it's all about selling credit. A lot of the stuff is no longer made in the US but made in guess where ... China.
Blue point is the budget range and also for European specific stuff that frankly they don't make but buy in. They don't want to offer the snap on warrenty on it so its sold under the BP brand . It's too fucking dear , I prefer Facom.
10 sockets 10mm to 19mm - £150 Yer avin a larf.
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 07:58 - 10 Apr 2021    Post subject: T Reply with quote

Truth time, I only have 4 snap on tools, a long nose pliers, which the tip broke off, so ground to match, a quarter drive rachet I found in an old car, a 10 X 1.25 plug tap and die.

I saw the snap on van at a local Garage and needed the tap and die there and then, expensive.

The next time a saw the van I took the long nose pliers to him. I told him what happened 35 years ago when the pliers broke. He looked at them, mulled it over and replaced them.

I think I had him over a barrel as the van had a few young budding mechanics in it at the time. How could he refuses ??!

I was given a blue point 3/8 socket set which is used daily and still performing well.

The Halfords sockets seem good and performing well, the combo spanners, open jaws seem not so good as they seem to "spread" but are gauranteed, must take the poor fit ones back for exchange next time I'm heading that way..

Halfords Spanners/ sockets etc. We're made by omerod or a similar name, from memory...
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DUCAUDI
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PostPosted: 08:57 - 10 Apr 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shaft wrote:
you can tell the quality isn't the same, because the boxes aren't particularly hard wearing, nor are the tools.


I can't comment on the tools as I've never really had the need to push my Blue Point stuff that hard (it was a Britool Expert bit that snapped). When it comes to my car/bike tools I've got some Blue Point stuff, some Britool stuff and some Halfords stuff. I have to say I think the build quality of the Blue Point and Britool is excellent. Blue Point erring on the side of basic maybe, comparing my ratchets the Britool ones have nice comfortable rubber coated handles that don't hurt or bite into your skin when you hang off them whereas the Blue Point ones are just all metal, making me less inclined to want to hang off them for comfort reasons. Also I got a nice set of Blue Point ratchet and open ended spanners which are really nice but as you say the box they came in was fucking shit and brittle and broke straight away so I had to get a foldup cloth bag for them on eBay. The box my Blue Point 1/4" drive set came in is acceptable but the case my Britool 1/4" drive set came in is definitely FAR superior!



Shaft wrote:
The real advantage of Snap On now, is that most (if not all) of the dealers offer interest free credit, which is especially handy when everything you buy is 3 times more expensive than it should be.


Wow I didn't even know this was a thing! I guess the credit is flexible and allows you to just add more stuff onto the same policy as you go along, putting it on the never never!



Shaft wrote:
You've dissed Britool because they are part of Facom, but there's nothing at all wrong with Facom (lots of F1 teams use them and they don't mess about) and besides, they've both been part of Stanley Black & Decker for 15 years.


No, I know you're right of course, that's just me being a Francophobe! I'm sure Facom make some really nice products. I just never have been keen on French products though, whether it's Peugeot, Citroen, Renault, Michelin, Valeo or Facom. Probably misguidedly so but I just don't trust frog manufacturing. I prefer Jap/Kraut where possible or Brit/USA in second place. I bought my Britool because they're really nice and I thought it was British (I think it was at the time but now part of Facom). Although I think Stanley do some ok products I've always regarded Black & Decker as cheap and nasty for the entry level DIY user. Is this not the case?



Shaft wrote:
lifetime warranty and I haven't managed to break or scratch anything yet.


Lifetime warranty on Halfords Pro huh? Interesting! Suppose you need the receipt though?



Islander wrote:
I've got a Teng Tool 26 piece combination spanner set and really can't fault the quality. Expensive but worth it IMO.


I've got a Teng ratchet multi bit screwdriver that goes everywhere with me. Quality it ok.



steve the grease wrote:
I'm agreeing with ' Shaft' here. The whole snap on model works on getting young mechanics signed up for credit for a fucking massive tool box and tools, and them calling in and getting payments every week for ....ever. They can't be bothered to stop at my place because I just spend £50 on replacing lost/ broken stuff and pay for the stuff I have. Like these so called car warehouses it's all about selling credit.


It's the same in many industries where selling credit is their bread and butter, the product is just an ends to a mean. I rung a Yamaha dealer earlier this week enquiring about a brand new MT-10 and how much they could budge on the MSRP. They were all over me, taking details and promising to get back to me etc. then the salesman said something about emailing me figures, "what figures?" I said, "finance vs PCP figures", then I tell him I'm looking to buy it outright and his enthusiasm went straight out the window, at this point he basically told me to come in and see them if I want the bike. He wasn't rude but you could tell he was totally deflated by the fact I wanted to buy a bike but didn't want the finance.



steve the grease wrote:
A lot of the stuff is no longer made in the US but made in guess where ... China.


True but a lot of top notch companies have their stuff manufactured in China, the really good ones will though oversee the quality control and make sure it's all being produced to the same standard that it would be in Japan or Germany. Honda springs to mind? Maybe Samsung and Apple too?
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