What to do with work gone wrong from engineering shop

[mattish]

Hi All,

I need some advice here, I'm not really sure what to do next.

I've been working on a project Bandit 650 SAK7 that was a complete rusty mess, and it was impossible to get the exhaust bolts out - leading to multiple breakages even using heat/penetrating oil. There was a good 8-10mm left of each bolt sticking out of the head, and I assumed welding a nut on may work, but thought I would just leave this to a pro as I haven't got a welder handy to even try.

So I turned to my local-ish shop in Bristol, as I've used him many times when I lived in Bristol and he has a good rep. It's worth noting Bristol is now an hour drive away. I'm not sure if he tried removing the bolts, I'm guessing he did and they snapped off again flush (they were extremely stuck), so he drilled them out and installed some large diameter inserts.

I got the engine back late last year and got the bike rebuilt over winter and MOT booked, I went to fill up the coolant week starting 15th March (just before MOT) and two of the inserts pee out coolant - even without any pressure in the system. I have spoken to the shop quite a few times since and he has said he is making some new inserts that he will come here to fit along with sealant, as I can't get the bike to Bristol and I don't really want to pull the engine out again.

Now I'm left wondering what to do, I didn't expect him to hit the water jacket in two places drilling out these bolts (although I know things do go wrong sometimes), that's sort of why I paid him rather than doing it myself. It's worth noting that he worked on the whole engine, rather than removing the head, if that makes any difference.

It feels like I'm getting the run around. I have raised the idea of replacing the head, heck I picked up a cheap one (in apparently good condition) just in case that I can resell if needed, but he seems very against that - I'm guessing due to cost that he might have to cover?

Ugh I'm just utterly fed up and want to get my bike water tight, MOT'd, and get out on the road. I paid quite a bit for the work he did, I could have added another 100 to the price I paid initially and replaced the entire head + gaskets (incl skim + pressure test)

[F18]

Fair to say he didn't expect to hit a waterway either.

Let him fashion new studs and fit them (with sealant) - very good of him to offer to come out to you to do it.
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Summer is just around the corner

[MCN]

[mattish]

I do appreciate the offer of the engineer to come and fix it here, I could still remove the engine again if I had to - it would be easier this time (no drilling engine mounting bolts out again ). The downside would be the lost 4l of new oil, the already lost coolant etc etc.

It was already known that one insert had hit the water jacket, that one requires a shorter bolt, sadly it still leaks along with another that was not known about.
Seeing as it was known the water jacket was hit, and it was a complete engine, a coolant pressure test would have been simple (way easier than with a naked head, as there are 3 pipes vs all the different holes with the head only).

I'm also kicking myself here, seeing as it was easy I should have pressure tested it myself before reinstalling and filling the engine with fluids. I had assumed as it was known the jacket was hit that it would have been tested.... my bad.

I guess I'm just annoyed as this is now costing me while the bike is off the road, car parking at work is over a 10er a day vs free bike (although luckily only doing one day a week in the office at the moment). It's also now nearly a month to 'make the inserts' with basically no updates.

I'm also a touch worried the one that was already known to have hit the water jacket doesn't have much material left around the hole - hopefully it fixes up. I really don't want to have to pull the head off completely.

[Evil Hans]

[mattish]

[jeffyjeff]

Is the head removable engine in frame? If so, that might factor into what to do next. You've already acquired a replacement head; consider using it. You have A) a used head on the bike that has been buggared up and repaired badly (which will require a second repair), and B) a used head in apparently good condition. Personally, I would rather not fit a head with oversize inserts and sealant if I had another option. You have a choice, but it will be a lot of work to replace.

If you do go with the replacement head, good practice is to check the deck for warpage, check the spark plug threads, and pressure test on the bench. If the valves need to be swapped over, check the valve face/seat contact, stem/guide clearance, and install new stem seals. Not a bad idea to carefully examine the valve springs (free length, visual damage, compression under load), retainers, and collets (keepers) for damage or wear.

Analyzing your options, it is easy to see why the Bristol shop wants to go with the inserts and sealant. Option B is a lot of work; probably more efficient if you have the skills to do it yourself.
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History shows again and again how nature points out the folly of men - BOC

[recman]

I think the title of engineer is applied far too readily sometimes these days.
I know a couple of these 'people' at work who have approached me* for ideas and practical advice a few times in the past.
I tell them its all above my pay grade.





*no qualifications or recognised engineering experience whatsoever.

[mattish]

[jeffyjeff]

[A100man]

[mattish]

[MCN]