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TravisBickle
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DUCAUDI



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PostPosted: 19:39 - 02 Jun 2021    Post subject: Not having a good day :-( Reply with quote

Run out of petrol (I can confirm the F-Trip on an MT10 gives you about 25 miles).

Finally got to a petrol station, bought a petrol can and filled it up and got back to the bike.

Filled it up, cocked a leg over and my bootlace snagged on the plastic shroud that surrounds the taillight and snapped part of it off.

Pulled off in a hurry, forgot the padlock was still on the front disc!

Now the front brakes don't feel the same. Have to pull the lever in half way before you can feel any resistance whereas there was resistance virtually straight away before. If I pump the front brake lever once or twice you start to get resistance straight away but otherwise the lever is halfway in before it starts to grip.

What have I broken?

Bad mood Mad Embarassed Crying or Very sad Evil or Very Mad Thumbs Down
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 19:59 - 02 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like a classic warped disc pushing the pads back in. If you prop the front wheel up, remove the callipers and spin the wheel, you'll probably see them wibbling about. if it's a more subtle warp, put a cable tie round the fork leg, cut the end of the "tail" off square and position it just off the disc. When you spin the wheel, a warped disc will move in and out relative to the cable tie.

Easy fix. Fit new discs.

Prevent it happening again? Put your lock through the rear sprocket instead. Less likely to drop the bike if you try to ride off with it on too.

I have a very simple one to stop you leaving a disc lock on. Keep a small bit of plastic/rubber tube over the key. When you put the lock on, you have to take the bit of tube off to use the key. Put it onto the ignition key. When you come back to the bike, there'll be a bit of tube on your ignition key stopping you using it.

EDIT. Have a good look at the callipers and the calliper mounts on the fork leg. Check for cracks.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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TravisBickle
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PostPosted: 20:10 - 02 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Sounds like a classic warped disc pushing the pads back in. If you prop the front wheel up, remove the callipers and spin the wheel, you'll probably see them wibbling about. if it's a more subtle warp, put a cable tie round the fork leg, cut the end of the "tail" off square and position it just off the disc. When you spin the wheel, a warped disc will move in and out relative to the cable tie.

Easy fix. Fit new discs.

Prevent it happening again? Put your lock through the rear sprocket instead. Less likely to drop the bike if you try to ride off with it on too.

I have a very simple one to stop you leaving a disc lock on. Keep a small bit of plastic/rubber tube over the key. When you put the lock on, you have to take the bit of tube off to use the key. Put it onto the ignition key. When you come back to the bike, there'll be a bit of tube on your ignition key stopping you using it.

EDIT. Have a good look at the callipers and the calliper mounts on the fork leg. Check for cracks.


Thanks stink! I'll check into that later! The rear sprocket is my preferred place to out the lock but unfortunately my padlock is too chunky to fit through the holes of the rear sprocket, didn't have a problem on my last bike which had a Supersprox Stealth sprocket so will probably get one of those fitted at some stage. The annoying thing is I actually have a Roadlok caliper-mounted disc lock on my desk ready to fit, just ain't got round to doing it yet, had I bothered to fit this before coming away for the short break away I'm on this would have been averted Sad
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to v or not to v
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PostPosted: 20:29 - 02 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

i feel for you. but running out of fuel is a pretty poor mistake to make.
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TravisBickle
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PostPosted: 20:36 - 02 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

to v or not to v wrote:
i feel for you. but running out of fuel is a pretty poor mistake to make.


Dumfuk thing to do but... there's always an excuse with me, and here it comes...

I was in the middle of Exmoor, no phone signal, couldn't Google the nearest petrol station. I knew my way to the nearest town which was about 26 miles away but I ran out after 25 miles. Yeah very poor planning, should have kept a better eye on the fuel gauge but two slightly mitigating circumstances:

The fuel gauge is a very crude yardstick with only 4 bars on it, so whether it's 25% full or 49.999% full it shows the same!

25 miles on the fuel light is an effing joke! I've just ordered a rear seat bag for the bike. Might also get a little 1 litre Jerry can and keep it in my bag with petrol in it at all times, just in case!
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 20:48 - 02 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

TravisBickle wrote:


25 miles on the fuel light is an effing joke! I've just ordered a rear seat bag for the bike. Might also get a little 1 litre Jerry can and keep it in my bag with petrol in it at all times, just in case!


Probably similar to what most bikes will do on reserve.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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TravisBickle
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PostPosted: 20:50 - 02 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Probably similar to what most bikes will do on reserve.


IIRC my FZ1 used to get nearly 50.

Told you I had an excuse for everything!

In all seriousness though, in the wilds of Exmoor or deepest darkest Scotland it could be quite easy to find yourself over 25 miles from the nearest petrol station.
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P.
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PostPosted: 20:51 - 02 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
TravisBickle wrote:


25 miles on the fuel light is an effing joke! I've just ordered a rear seat bag for the bike. Might also get a little 1 litre Jerry can and keep it in my bag with petrol in it at all times, just in case!


Probably similar to what most bikes will do on reserve.


Pretty much, hit 130 before light flashed, 20ish miles in it goes solid warning you that you are about to be fucked, pull over within a mile etc.
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TravisBickle
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PostPosted: 21:06 - 02 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

To change the subject slightly, I haven't got round to clocking it exactly yet but I don't think I'm even getting 100 miles to my 14 litre tank. Not very good. But there again I do ride like a cnut so Thinking
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 21:41 - 02 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:


Probably similar to what most bikes will do on reserve.


55-60 miles on mine. But then most bikes don't have an owner who modified the fuel tank to hold an extra gallon Very Happy
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 21:55 - 02 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have one of those day-glo reminder springy things on my disk lock. Seems to do the trick for a pound or so.
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TravisBickle
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PostPosted: 22:07 - 02 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Easy-X wrote:
I have one of those day-glo reminder springy things on my disk lock. Seems to do the trick for a pound or so.


Knowing me I'd forget to put the bloody thing on the handlebar!

I need an idiot-proof solution because I am, after all, a fecking idiot!

I think the Roadlok jobbie will do the trick nicely. Also means I don't have to carry the padlock around with me in my pocket... although now the rear seat bag is coming this is less of an issue now.

Literally ZERO storage under the seat! At least with the old FZ1 there was just about enough room for a toolkit, puncture repair kit, a tyre pressure gauge and the baffle. I can't even get the baffle under the seat on this bike! I'm lead to believe that with a remap (which is on my to-do list) you can remove the EXUP servo, freeing up enough room under the seat for a very small toolkit.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 22:11 - 02 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why would you want to remove the exup gubbins?
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TravisBickle
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PostPosted: 22:25 - 02 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Why would you want to remove the exup gubbins?


I think you already know the answer. You're just setting me up to give you the answer you want so you can tell me I should have left it alone but here we go...

EXUP valve was removed with the cat when I had a full Black Widow system installed. You'll now tell me that doing this reduces back pressure and therefore low to mid range grunt, but I understand a remap can cure this and unlock more power from the bike than was previously available with the cat and EXUP in place. Besides, there isn't any noticeable loss in low to mid range grunt since having it removed at all and the bike is already insanely grunty for an inline 4. Remember LPSL!!! Although the absance of an EXUP could explain my fuel economy complaint Thinking but then who the hell buys an MT10 for the bloody fuel economy???!!!

I have no intention of trip trapping across your bridge tonight please Nobby x
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Last edited by TravisBickle on 08:53 - 03 Jun 2021; edited 6 times in total
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Keithy
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PostPosted: 22:31 - 02 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

TravisBickle wrote:
To change the subject slightly, I haven't got round to clocking it exactly yet but I don't think I'm even getting 100 miles to my 14 litre tank. Not very good. But there again I do ride like a cnut so Thinking


32mpg doesn’t seem good.
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TravisBickle
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PostPosted: 22:45 - 02 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Back to brake discs...

If I'm going to have to replace them prematurely what brand would you guys recommend? I've always gone EBC before. I quite like the look of the Vee-Series, mainly because you can get them in blue which will match the theme of the rest of the bike. But cost aside, what do all you guys vote on BEST discs to get?
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 22:46 - 02 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

TravisBickle wrote:


I think the Roadlok jobbie will do the trick nicely. Also means I don't have to carry the padlock around with me in my pocket... although now the rear seat bag is coming this is less of an issue now.


So what happens if you forget to unlock your roadlock and try to ride away?

They say nothing can happen but I'd imagine your front suspension would compress, then decompress...?
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 22:46 - 02 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

TravisBickle wrote:
But cost aside, what do all you guys vote on BEST discs to get?


OEM.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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TravisBickle
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PostPosted: 22:51 - 02 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also bearing in mind the bike has only done 1,200 miles should I change the pads also?
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TravisBickle
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PostPosted: 22:57 - 02 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
OEM.


Interesting.

So you don't think there's anything to be said for reducing rotational mass? Like replacing the rear sprocket with a Supersprox Stealth?
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 23:06 - 02 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it's anything like my VFR, the OEM discs are cast iron. So they are straight, effective and long lasting.

Amazing how many aftermarket discs have a siginficant run-off on them out of the box or develop one after a short period of use.

And yes. Always fit new pads when you fit new discs.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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TravisBickle
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PostPosted: 03:24 - 03 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

What do you mean by run-off? Is that being warped or uneven?

And would you recommend Brembo or EBC or something else for pads?
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to v or not to v
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PostPosted: 08:17 - 03 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

i reset my trip meter every time i fill up, that way its easy to know how far i can go before needing petrol again.
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TravisBickle
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PostPosted: 08:32 - 03 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

to v or not to v wrote:
i reset my trip meter every time i fill up, that way its easy to know how far i can go before needing petrol again.


Yeah I used to do that too as habit.

I'm ashamed to say though, I still haven't figured out how to reset it on this bike yet! You toggle the wheel to cycle through the display. When it reads trip info would make sense to push and hold the wheel to reset. Doesn't seem to work. I need to dig the manual out anyway as I still haven't got round to customising my A to D modes. Just kept it in D while I was running it in and now perfectly happy leaving it in mode C. The thing is savage Embarassed
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Freddyfruitba...
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PostPosted: 08:59 - 03 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

TravisBickle wrote:
Knowing me I'd forget to put the bloody thing on the handlebar!
I need an idiot-proof solution because I am, after all, a fecking idiot!

That's why stinkwheel's bit of rubber tube works like a charm - I used to do the same thing myself back in the day when I had a bike with a key. The point is that the rubber tube is always on either the ignition key or the look key, so you can't go wrong...
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